TR: Emigrant loop via Big Sam - 9/12/23 - 9/18/23

[scottmiller]

Kennedy Meadows - Kennedy Lake - Big Sam - High Emigrant Lake - Letora Lake - Long Lake - Grouse Creek

We started at Kennedy Meadows and hiked up to Kennedy Bog, I mean, Kennedy Lake. We didn't camp before the lake like everyone else so we had to walk almost to the other end of the lake to find a spot to camp. I don't know if it's like this every year, but we had about an hour of tedious bog walking, wet shoes and all. If I had a do-over I would hike farther away from the lake where there is gravel. But, it's wet everywhere up there so this might not be normal.

The next day was up and over Big Sam, a new route for me. I don't know why the trail up to the main trail isn't marked on most maps; it's a legit trail, although we lost it a couple times in the woods. We had to dodge a snow field immediately before the trail junction. The views in both directions were great. The air was clear. Four bighorn sheep looked at us from the ridge top. I've never seen them before.

We camped at High Emigrant Lake, and the next day went to Letora Lake. We took a second-rate trail from Grizzly Meadow to the main trail to save about a mile and it turned out to be maybe not a great idea. I don't expect much from those trails, but it was rough, steep, not marked well, and generally annoying. As someone else noted, the less-traveled trails in Emigrant are messier than usual right now. This is understandable because they haven't been accessible.

I was ready for a break upon reaching the main trail, but a level 4 mosquito situation was waiting for us so we took off. This gave me some concern because I almost always go to the Sierras in September and anything bug related isn't even on my list. However, that turned out to be the worst place on the trip. The rest was an occasional level 2.

The weather forecast was 5-10% chance of thunder storms, so of course we got a thunder storm at about 3 PM which lasted until about 5, during which we stopped at Letora Lake. The lake lived up to its reputation of loveliness.

We then went to Long Lake. On the way I saw what could have been a Sierra red fox. It was sure enough red, with a long tail, and it was a fox. I didn't see the other tell-tail markings (black ears, white tail tip) but I submitted a report anyway. It was gorgeous, whatever it was.

The north fork of Cherry Creek was knee deep, and fordable with bare feet. I don't think I've ever seen water in Cherry Creek. A thunder storm started up about 3 and we spent a bit of time lolling around in the rain after we reached camp at Long Lake, but it cleared up nicely, as promised.

The plan for the next day was to go to Upper Relief Valley and go off-trail to Ridge Lake, which we have done previously. Our first attempt, many years ago, did not go well and took forever. However, we figured we had learned something and were ready to try again. But upon reaching Upper Relief Valley, we took a look at the traverse before us and decided "Nah." We had put on a lot of miles (for us) already. So we continued to what had been our planned last stop at Grouse Creek.

On the way, we had a to cross a very active Summit Creek. I pondered going barefoot for about .02 seconds, but it was too fast and deep, with lots of rocks, so in we went with shoes on. Fortunately, all the rocks made for a chaotic flow so I didn't get vertigo like I do with fast streams. That was handy because I really needed to see where to put my feet. (Be thankful if you don't get vertigo crossing fast streams; it can literally make you keel over.) Of course, there was a thunder storm.

We stayed at Grouse Creek two nights, and took a day hike up to Sheep Camp. I have done that hike a lot, and to me it has always been a hot and dusty slog, so to go in the cool morning, with everything nice and damp, with no start-of-the-trip-heavy pack was a pleasure. It seems like whenever we stop for a rest day we end up on a day hike that is just as strenuous as a normal day, and this was pretty much like that; 10 miles with a 1,400 foot elevation gain. But it was beautiful and I attained full mellowness of the mind and psyche. There was no thunder storm, but that was OK with us.

We got an early start on our exit day and I drifted down hill slowly. Hikers of a certain age can relate to the phenomena of potential looming health issues that could mean that every backpacking trip might be your last, so I was loathe to leave and I took my time. We stopped for coffee at Bean Around the Block in Twain Harte, which has surprisingly great coffee. Us urban folk can get chauvinistic about our quality coffee, but damn, those folk know what they're doing.

Our usual go-to burger place, the Standard Pour, was closed, so we found a new place, the Rock of Twain Harte. It doesn't have quite the beer selection of the Standard Pour, but the food is great, and the ambience is more rustic and appealing.

Our original plan was Rae Lakes from the west, but the road closure dashed those plans. So, it was off to Emigrant which might not have the same other-worldly effect that other places do, but it is always an excellent trip.

Kennedy Meadows from the north. Big Sam in the background.

kennedy from north.jpg

Kennedy Meadows from Big Sam

kennedy way up.jpg

A few of the Emigrant lakes from Big Sam

lakes.jpg

South from Big Sam on a clear day

looking south big sam.jpg

[balzaccom]

Lovely stuff. Sounds like you had a great trip! It seems to me that the bugs are wrose this year, even late in the season, possibly because of the extra snow, possibly because of the recurring rains? At any rate, they are there!

Standard Pour and the Rock are both good options. Farther down the hill, Garcia's in Ripon (not really, but on Highway 120) is great and cheap Mexican food.

[texan]

You passed by my favorite area in Emigrant for the views and the fishing. Thanks for sharing.

Texan

[kpeter]

Wow! You covered a lot of ground! I've never been over Big Sam, you got some great views! One day from High Emigrant to Letora, zounds! But I am not sure from your description if you camped at Letora or kept going to Long Lake on the same day? I presume you passed Buck Lakes, how did they seem this trip?

[scottmiller]

Wow! You covered a lot of ground! I've never been over Big Sam, you got some great views! One day from High Emigrant to Letora, zounds! But I am not sure from your description if you camped at Letora or kept going to Long Lake on the same day? I presume you passed Buck Lakes, how did they seem this trip?

We camped at Letora Lake and at Long Lake. Buck Lakes looked happy. The trail that crosses the north lake to south lake border required some jumping from rock to rock. Lots of water up there. Trails through meadow were boggy.

[jakerossman]

A great location. I've never been to Big Sam. Thank you for sharing and congratulations on your wonderful trip.

[wildhiker]

Nice photos from Big Sam! We hiked it the other direction (south to north) about 15 years ago. When my wife and (adult) daughter reached the top, they surprised a bear! I was lagging behind and missed the bear.
-Phil

[windknot]

Thanks for the report! I went over Big Sam from Leavitt Lake/PCT last year and noticed that trail coming up from Kennedy Lake. I too wondered why the trail didn't show up on any map. Glad you had a good trip!

[DaveF]

Good report! I'm curious about your thoughts on Long Lake. I've seen a few pictures that make it look attractive, but the trail system doesn't seem to provide much access and I don't recall any trip reports there. Anything you can share would be appreciated

[kpeter]

Good report! I'm curious about your thoughts on Long Lake. I've seen a few pictures that make it look attractive, but the trail system doesn't seem to provide much access and I don't recall any trip reports there. Anything you can share would be appreciated

I'd be interested too to here more from scottmiller about Long Lake.

Below is a 10 year old trip report I did when I visited Long Lake.

I found it an easy Cross-X to the check dam from Deer Lake, just following the outlet stream up/down. I took a longer route, I came up the main trail toward toward Salt Lick Meadow but turned off it early and cross-xd easily over to the ridge west of Long Lake. From there I meandered over to one of the check dams on its southern end. And from there I easily followed the outlet stream back down to Deer Lake. I could just have easily followed the outlet stream up to Long from Deer Lake, too.

There is a trail to Long Lake's northern end--that trail is a turnoff from the main Relief Valley trail that goes from Deer Lake all the way to Relief Reservoir. The Long Lake turnoff is almost within sight of the Wire Lakes turnoff. I have not taken the Long Lake turnoff, however.

https://www.highsierratopix.com/communi ... php?t=9364

Here are 3 more pictures from that 2013 trip that shows the lake from a ridge to its west and from the south.