Looking for information on Glacier ridge and climbing peak 12,240

[uncommonloon]

Hello all,

I'm starting a trip to Glacier Ridge on Sunday the 27th. I'll be going from Cloud Canyon over the Arnot route through Josephine lake, seeing the eastern lakes, crossing the pass, and then exploring all the western lakes as well. I'd appreciate if anyone had any info on the following

1) Climbing peak 12,240. What route did you take and what class did you find it to be?
2) Anyone exited the western basin south over “Glacier Ridge Pass” (as labelled on CalTopo). What class was that pass? I’ve seen 3’s and 4’s but would love to hear personal experience.
3) Any .gpx files people might have for crossing the ridge greatly appreciated. I’ll probably find my way without it but wouldn’t hurt.

Thank you!

-Mark

[thegib]

Hi uncommonloon,
I've crossed over 'Glacier Ridge pass'. From the western lakes heading SE we climbed steep sloped slab ledges that had snow that actually made it easier. When I tried to reverse this a couple years later I looked down from the top and said yikes! I diverted over to the right (facing the western lakes now) and struggled down. I remember very short and not particularly exposed c3 section(s) where I took my partner's pack. No c4, I don't do that with pack. Sorry, I know that's barely helpful. Be sure to camp not at the very first lake, but the second smaller lake just south of it (above cloud canyon). It's a perfect swimming hole.

[cgundersen]

Hi Mark,

Ian Harlen posted a great trip report on his Glacier Ridge adventure (see link below) and the gobs of attendant comments cover a lot of what you are seeking. The two things I'll emphasize are that the vegetation separating you from Cement Table Meadow at the beginning of the ascent to Josephine can be a bit vexing to get through. And I have no idea how high the creek flow will be this year. Once you're on your way up, it's simply a long slog. If you are entertaining notions of camping at the lakes above Josephine, the options are sketchy and you are better off at Josephine (or getting over the ridge). Going down the Deadman side also takes a bit of patience, because there are cliff-out spots lower down, but nothing that is a real obstacle. There is a huge horse camp at the bottom of the descent. Finally, the 2019 HST meetup was on Glacier Ridge and there will be tons more info there.
https://www.highsierratopix.com/communi ... =Josephine
Good luck,
Cameron