TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

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Harlen
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TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by Harlen »

The first "perfect storm" waited till the four of us were lying happily in our tent, and only then did it pour hail upon us.  The hailstorm was exceedingly brief-- beginning at exactly 12 AM, and lasting for just one hour. A few hours later, when I went outside to check the weather, it was already a perfect starry night!


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This is the sunset we enjoyed prior to that brief storm.  The picture is taken from the outlet end of Tomahawk Lake, with Pilot Knob in the center.


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 The morning after the first "storm" was this clear!

Our "perfect stormy" trip carried on like this, with brilliant skies, and an often ethereal light bathing the land.  I have always preferred to experience at least some stormy weather in the mountains, compared to straight, blue sky days. The myriad cloud formations can add another fascinating dimention to the scenery, and the rich light of moisture laden air makes an occasional soaking well worth it. Of course, day after day deluges, and endless gray days are unwelcome events, but please give us a few thunderstorms for the excitment and the beauty.



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For a long while the mountain was hidden in cloud, or shadowed, so when the clouds cleared away, and it shone this beautifully, I was ecstatic! I ran/hobbled up the rocky hill to capture this image.


So this was the wonderful pattern of the successive storms we experienced after our first, and only clear day.  We hiked in from North Lake, over Piute Pass, and on to our first stop at Lake Muriel.  It was unusually crowded due to all the JMT and PCT'ers who were avoiding the damaged bridge over the San Joaquin.  They go out Piute Pass, and come back in over Bishop Pass, or vice-versa.  Muriel Lake is more or less on the way.  There is actually a small trail from the east side of Muriel Lake right to the pass.  We were happy to use it, as I am still favoring my recently injured ankle.  We chose H. Basin as my first trial backpack just because it is such a gentle landscape, and it worked out fine.  We spent the next 2 days based at Tomahawk Lake, and the subsequent 2 days at Mesa Lake.  We did some nice fishing, and long day hikes from these bases.  Our 6th and final night was spent at Piute Lake, where once again, we were only rained on briefly in the night.  It did rain on us on the way out, but it was a gentle and fragrant experience-- we loved it, but our fair-weather dogs were a bit miffed.

We traveled off trail everywhere in the basin, till on the way out, when we met the trail for the last couple miles to the pass.  There were no problems crossing creeks, no mosquito issues to complain about, and there were wonderful wildflowers-- it was just carpeted with endless species of flowers!  On the trail in, we were also amazed by some of our favorite flowers, but these were the big showy species, like Leopard Lilies*, Monkshood, and a new pink mallow flower-- the "Bog Mallow," aka "Oregon Checkerbloom."  We also saw some native orchids-- the "White Bog Orchid," and many Penstemon flowers and Paintbrush, Gilia, and on and on. It is really nice out there, or at least it was for us.  Let's hope the storms stay mild, not wild.  The rest in pictures and captions:


*Ed/Gogd says it's a "Tiger Lily," I've learned that the two can hybridize... how about "Liger?" (AKA "Kelley's Lily.")


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The "Bog Mallow," or Sidalcea oregana  perhaps ssp. spicata.


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The pine "flowers"-- pollen-carrying male cones of the Whitebark Pine.


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When we first saw the Leopard Lilies, they were among purple Monkshood, and being fed upon and pollinated by Swallowtail Butterflies!         

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A bush lupine species near the trailhead, higher up, we got into fields of alpine lupine-- probably Lobbs Lupine.


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 Nine year old Bearzy.  The dogs behaved very well, both when leashed and unleashed.  The Horse packers were impressed, and wanted to know what kind of dog Bearzy is.  They agreed that he must have some cattle dog in the mix.  


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Looking east down the valley from near Piute Pass.  Piute Lake first, down to Loch Leven, with unnamed little lakes all around.


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We struggled over to Muriel Lake to camp, which is only about 6 miles in from the trailhead on the south side of H.Basin.  For some reason we were knackered!  I really hope I was suffering from poor acclimatization, if not, then I am woefully out of shape!  Muriel Lake is 11,336', and we had come from sea level, with one short night by Tioga Pass at ~9.500.'


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TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by Harlen »

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 Dawn light on Muriel Peak.


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 Mt Goethe and friends.


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We passed the rocky outlet of Lower Desolation Lake on our way north across the basin.


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Tomahawk Lake looked like a great place to stay, and it sure turned out to be.  It's beautiful there, and we had the luck to see a big healthy Coyote running along the slope above the lake.  We heard the whole pack in the night, and again up around Forsaken Lake.


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Nice campsites on the northeast end of the lake.


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We caught our dinner night after night.  The largest are 13" brookies; and luckily for us, because on this trip we only brought a single packet of ramen for our dinners, assuming we'd be eating fish.


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Thunder and lightning over Evolution Valley, but all we got was....


A beautiful sunset!
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TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by Harlen »

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The morning after.


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We took a rest day of fishing, chores, and a hike up to check out Mesa Lake, which we loved the look of.  My main chore was to disappear a big fire ring-- illegal by 1,145 feet.  The area in the photo below had contained 2 huge wood piles, with branches to 6", and a big rock ring, filled with charcoal.  What an arse pain!  The blackened rock face I covered with a large granite slab.


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Mesa Lake


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Our tried and true water filtering system-- through the teeth.


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On our second night at Tomahawk, we settled in to watch the weather pageant unfold, which this evening was pretty exciting.  The storm built, and built-- lightning! ... thunder!! ... hail and rain came down everywhere but on us-- more "perfect stormy weather!"  Finally we got the cold rain, but only from exactly 5:30 to 6:30, and then the storm politely gave us one hour off for dinner.  We had our 3rd fish dinner in a row, 2 brookies added to a pot with miso and ramen.  At 6:30 sharp the storm bell rang, and we retreated to the tent.  It then pissed down on and off for the rest of the night.  There was no wind at all, and we slept fine.  


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The storm seemed centered over Evolution Valley, and parts south.  The deep notch is Alpine Col, which to my mind would be the finest re-route around the big bent bridge.


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 Dawn looked ominous, and we thought we were finally in for it.  But the storm still smiled down on us, and held off.  So we moved away from our beautiful Tomahawk Lake camp, with its own flower garden, up to Mesa Lake.


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TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by Harlen »

Our Mesa Lake camp was much more exposed to wind, for which we suffered a bit during the rainstorm on the night of the 12th.  The rain was blown hard against the tent fly, and it then stuck against the inner tent and dripped on my side.  Even when dry my super-lightweight WM "Furnace" bag should really be called "the Freezer Bag." We arranged guy lines, and all was soon well. After setting up camp we took a hike around Desolation Lake, and on up to Forsaken Lake.  On the way, we looked for the Badgers I had heard live there, but all we found was a lot of Marmots.  We saw at least 15, along with Belding Ground Squirrels and Alpine Chipmunks.  A Bald Eagle sailed high over the basin, and we also saw our favorite alpine birds, the Mountain Bluebirds and Rock Wrens.                   

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Mesa Lake, with Mt Mendel (or Darwin?) seen through Alpine Col.

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The softer northeastern margin of H.Basin, with Four Gables in the distance.


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Forsaken Lake


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Lupine fields above Mesa Lake..... and everywhere else!


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The scenery was so fantastic we joked we were living inside a postcard. 


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Cloud mountains.    


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TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by Harlen »

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 Looking over French Canyon from the ridge above Mesa Lake. Bear Creek Spire is under the white clouds.

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Steelhead and French Lakes high up on the left.

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View westward through Puppet Pass to Alsace Lake.  Mount Gemini and Seven Gables in the distance.


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Star Lake below.


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Back down by Mesa Lake with Elephant Head flowers.


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Hiking out cross country is easy here.  We planned to drop packs and take a hike up to the Humphreys Lakes at 12,400.'

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Humphreys Lakes.

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TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by Harlen »

[Last few, sorry for the length of this.]

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Down to Piute Lake.

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The last day it finally rained on us.  Wolfie dislikes even a light rain-- this is his ears down , "I'm miserable" look.


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 Bog Orchid. 


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We had a great, and very lucky trip.  Humphreys Basin really lends itself to cross-country traveling.  It has a unique feel, with so much openness, and the long sight lines; but one can easily approach the mountains and the high, lake-filled basins.  We saw very few folks once off-trail, and lots of wildlife.  Good Luck out there!  Ian and Lizzie.
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Re: TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by michaelzim »

Wow Ian!!!
I see another human not asleep in the wee hours, but at least you are productive giving us a rich TR - with fantastic array of photos of an area I am theoretically going to, or skirting very soon. I postponed my permit for Monday until Thursday (coming in Pine Creek Pass) due to all the hype about "Hillary". Hopefully all the flowers will not get trashed, though maybe if it hammers down it will annihilate residual mosquitoes?!
Very good to see you are getting out on your "break" and that it held up OK for you. I'm sure it must be a challenge to not race around doing mega miles to all the surrounding peaks, though there are many joys to base camping as seems like you are finding.
More trips to follow I hope to keep your leg "acclim-mountained"...Ta for your nocturnal travails.
Michael
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Re: TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by giantbrookie »

Those are such dramatic photos with the clouds and lighting. This certainly puts a very positive spin on volatile weather on a summer backpacking trip. I'm glad the fishing results kept you fed, too. Dawn and I always carry enough food so that we eat well in case we skunk, a habit dates a trip years ago when Todd and I ended up going hungry because we counted too much on catching fish. Dawn and I overdid it a touch on our last trip because it seems like we had about 10 days of food for a planned 7 day trip (that ended up being 6 days), and the consequence of our policy results in us carrying out a fair amount of food, but we'd rather deal with the extra weight than end up hungry.

Regarding the weather, it looks like you and Matt were dealing with similar weather not too far from each other, but I guess that weather would be pretty tame compared to what folks will deal with this weekend and Monday. Of course we hope that folks modified their plans to avoid being stuck back there in the deluge that has begun up there.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by cgundersen »

Hey Ian,
That's as spectacular as I've ever seen that basin. The year Joy & I followed you all into the frozen tundra of Humphreys basin was a unique experience, but the combination of enchanting lighting effects, flowers galore and cloud mountains is stunning. Looks like you are in full recovery mode! Cheers, Cameron
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Re: TR: Humphreys Basin in Perfect Stormy Weather!  8/9 - 8/15

Post by kpeter »

Gorgeous photography, capturing the weather well and giving it a sense of drama. Nicely done.
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