Advice about Merriam Lake and Humphreys Basin

[Love the Sierra]

I have permits to go into Piute Pass on 8/21 and I would love to get tips for the best exploration. I want to avoid creek crossings in which I cannot see the bottom, ie water is too fast or too deep. Deep, above May knees when Jasmine Rose has to swim, slow water is fine. I also want to avoid STEEP snow fields that will get soft as the day wears on. Finally, I want to stay on class 2 footing. OF COURSE, I would like to avoid the skeeters and if any of you know of any lakes that are “Safe Havens” for base camping, please recommend! (For example, I can say that Buck Lakes in Emigrant is ALWAYS a safe haven even when you would get eaten alive at Emigrant, Wire or Huckleberry.) @Cgunderson, I know you have said that Merriam is the prettiest lake out there, but looking at your TR, the camping looks quite exposed. Sort of worrisome for me if we get stuck in monsoon thunder storms. I would rather be able to camp with trees around. (I know, the trees get hit and you die from ground transfer of electricity, but it feels safer if you can find an open spot surrounded by trees.) I also cannot tell you how much i do NOT want to camp under a rock slide. (I remember that story as well.) So, is Merriam a good spot to camp or Bette for a day hike?

I was thinking of spending a night or two at Merriam Lake, and day hiking out from there, but after reading the post from @Mxoyez last year, maybe it is better as a day hike and base camp elsewhere? @Mxoyez also mentions lots of water to wade through, and that was last year!
I definitely want to explore the lakes in Humphreys on this trip and possibly, if the footing looks safe, go up 4 Gables.
I have 6 days and want leisurely hiking 7-10 miles/day and I always love one or two layover days when I do not have to pack camp and can day hike without a heavy pack.

So, here are my questions:
What are the “FOR SURE DO NOT MISS IT” places to go?
What would be the best camp spot for exploring around? I am thinking maybe one night at Merriam, explore around that lake and then a couple in Humphreys, Elba or Moon?? What is the terrain like going from Elba/Moon to Desolation and then back to north lake from there? Which lake will give me the best sunrise/sunset alpine glow? Any safe mosquito havens?

Thanks so much!!!
Aura

[rayfound]

Mesa/Desolation are pretty mild relative to the rest of the area re: mosquitos IME. Muriel also can be pretty tame - mostly these areas have limited marshy areas and relatively exposed/breezy.

Foresaken Lake above desolation is pretty special little spot - in its own little bowl with great views.

Elba/Moon/L Lakes are pretty but do tend to get pretty innundated with mosquitos. That said if there are afternoon thunderstorms, there is some limited cover from wind/rain here that doesn't really exist on the upper bench (puppet, Paris, Star, etc...). I think the outlet stream from Elba is particularly pretty spot.

Going over puppet pass IMO is probably easier from Puppet to Mesa, rather than vice versa. I find it somewhat difficult to find the lines down from the Mesa side, though once you find the right path it is quite traversable. The trails are easy to see from the ground below looking up.


Royce falls is a pretty stunning experience but does require some very mild scrambling up to reach the base. No trail exists, just follow creek fork up from french creek.

The only creek crossing that would be of any concern, IMO, is Piute Creek - Not sure what the crossing is like at hutchinson meadow, but it crosses french creek, which IME is smaller than Piute.

[paul]

4 Gables does have tremendous views. But I have only been up there on skis so I do not how how tedious the talus may be once you get up above 12K - though since none of that route is steep I would expect it is okay, and this year you will probably still have some snow up in there to make things easier.
Within HB, I really like the area around Humphreys lakes and the far eastern portion of the basin. Lots of little lakes and meadowy bits and rock. What you can do is on your way out of the basin, just wander up into that area and then drop down right along the fresno/inyo county line to the pass.

[scottmiller]

Elba is a very pretty lake with a bunch of trees. Moon is more bare, as is Puppet. If you go over Puppet pass, the trick is to go next to the wall on the left, looking up. There's a nice trail there. To get there, you need to go around some car-sized boulders at the bottom, but there are little trails in there too. In other words, no boulder hopping is necessary until you get almost to the top.
Humphrey's Basin is one of my favorite places. It's very easy to get around on, being mostly free of big slopes. Desolation Lake is quite something. It lives up to its name, for sure. If coming from the south, there's a pretty good campsite right about where the trail meets the lake, and then a few more where the draw from Forsaken Lake comes in.
There will be lots of people camped at the lakes around Piute Creek.

[Love the Sierra]

Hi,
Thank you all so much!
@Rayfound thank you for the great details about the lakes and the pass. Looking at the map, I am leaning more towards not trying to enter from the North but rather after leaving Merriam coming back down to French Canyon and exploring more of the lakes on the Southern side of the trail and going into Desolation with the trail.

Paul, great idea to contour from the far east earn Humphrey lake to Piute pass.

Scott Miller, thank you for the info about Puppet Pass. I will take a look, but fear it will be too hard for me with a full pack. I definitely will try to go to Forsaken Lake.

Would all of you agree that Puppet is the easiest to get over from North to South? On the map, Pilot Pass looks less steep, but terrain and talus is as important as steepness.

Thank you all again!!

[paul]

I have been over Steelhead col south to north with no snow and north to south with lots of snow; and over Puppet north to south with no snow, and Puppet was definitely the easiest. Have not been over Pilot but have been up to it from the south and it sure looked like it would be tougher thsn Puppet.

[thegib]

As paul said 4 Gables is very low angle, the only challenge is figuring out which of the 4 bumps is the official summit. I think Merriam lake is a gorgeous area and a welcome break from being dominated by the towering Humphreys but the trail junction in French canyon has been a squito hotspot for me. That said, if you find someone who can predict mosquito presence with success please let me know.

[Love the Sierra]

Thegib, with a name like “Hutchinson Meadow” it has to be mosquito central. I have never been to a meadow that wasn’t!

[Love the Sierra]

Thanks Paul for the info on Puppet!

[SSSdave]

https://www.davidsenesac.com/2017_Trip_ ... 17-17.html

Merriam Lake is indeed aesthetic though IMO isn't close to being the most aesthetic lake in that zone. It does have that reputation from decades ago from the era of horse packers and Sierra Club group trips. That was more about being a SC brag due to its more remoteness. This 2023 summer, one won't likely be able to escape high numbers of mosquitoes anywhere with vegetation, forest, because water will be draining down into September. The basin does have shaded wind protected places, however the vast majority of those landscapes do not until dropping down below timberline. Areas down in less breezy forested meadowy Piute and French Canyon are certain to have the most mosquitoes.




Centrally located for base camping, Tomahawk Lake, the highest Humphreys Lake, and L lake, are IMO the most aesthetic lakes at least during early to mid mornings. In any case, what is aesthetic is always dependent on time of day and weather. It also has some not obvious, whitebark pine shaded, relatively lightning safe camp spots on the east side of the lake on a rib where on the 7.5' USGS topo is the letter T in "Tomahawk". Look at the HST Cross Country Passes page for Carol Col (aka Puppet Pass) where I added info that is also on the above 2017 trip pages.

Another good camp zone is southeast of the what I call Grass Island Lake at 10960+ (along Piute Creek in numbers of large whitebark pine. The noname body with an island in it. Numbers of secluded camp spots well away from any trails.

https://www.davidsenesac.com/2018_Trip_ ... .html#aug5