https://andrewskurka.com/detouring-san- ... alternates
I was able to do the ascent and get to the final plateau but not the final descent (hiking buddy wasn't feeling well).
I am just going to say right away that I am not going to give specific route information but rather guiding advice on navigating this based on Skurka's rough bearings, especially since it is new. I recommend only fairly experienced hikers with some comfort in class 3 do this. You can pull it off from what I have done so far mainly as class 2 with some hand over hand and not a lot of exposure. Worst case is class 3 with a lot of exposure, so plan carefully.
The biggest takeaways for me were:
- Don't rely on the contour shading! These are just averages over distance and miss easy step downs. There's a natural switchback I missed the first time because of this.
- There are a lot of false summits. The granite face from the canyon floor is only a third of the total mountain.
- When in doubt, try higher ground.
- Check ledge endings. They may drop off 50+ feet or be a simple 5 foot climb down.
- If you feel that you are too exposed, reassess. There may be an easier route that requires a small double back and change in elevation.
- The granite is pretty slick for 2023 July, be really careful, especially around the waterfalls.
- Give yourself 4 hours to complete.
- From the canyon floor near the bridge I was able to find some open dirt path that winded up to the top of the initial plateau at 8840.
- Hiked northwest until we hit the seasonal creek as our backstop.
- Ascended hand over hand parallel to the creek waterfalls. This had one sketchy part to it where there was some exposure while shimmying across.
- Side hilled to the destination plateau at 10120. Would ascend when we hit waterfalls and then try to descend when possible.
- Camped overnight in the plateau (freakin beautiful) and then double backed.
- On the descent, found a way easier path that is just east of the bearing line. It forms a natural switchback that doesn't require any class 3 climb down to the 8840 plateau. I did a pretty exposed class 3 before backing out and finding the switchbacks.
Before attempting, make sure you can spot the different landmarks of the mountain side. From the canyon, you will see a wide plateau to the west at 8840 and another more acute one at 9380 further east where it meets Evolution Valley. The area you will climb is above the visible ridgeline. Once you are on the first plateau, your destination plateau at 8840 should be visible and you will see an even larger one above it at 11080.
