Wind Rivers 2022 (7/14/22 to 8/26/22)
Trip 2: North Loop from Big Sandy TH (7/25-8/1, 2022)
58 miles, 8 days
In my opinion this trip was the most scenic of the summer although least remote. The “plan” for this trip was a clockwise loop, up the East Fork, over to Baptiste Lake, over Macon Lake Pass, down to Washakie Lake and over Illinois Pass and Texas Pass to Cirque of the Towers and out. Of course, I also had many variations figured out. Less than an hour after starting, I stupidly missed the first trail junction. Later, as weather became more monsoonal I diverted around Macon Lake and Illinois passes. Trails were crowded! Again I hit the south-to-north CDT bubble; it is amazing how popular this thru-hike has become. (Note that times are PDT which is the same as MST; I forgot to change my watch.
Day 1. Big Sandy TH to Cirque of the Towers
8.4 miles, 5.8 hours, 2180 elevation gain
I did not get on the trail until 8:45 due to drying my car camping tent after more rain at night. I certainly was familiar with the trail having walked in the day before! Yet somehow, I spaced out and missed the Fremont trail junction, only realizing the mistake when nearly to Big Sandy Lake. Not wanting to go back I would simply do the route counter-clockwise.
Weather was perfect and I made good time towards Jackass Pass. From above the appropriately named Arrowhead Lake I took the “back door” use-trail to what is called “Climber’s Camp”, a bench south of Pingora that is out of the quarter-mile no-camping zone around Lonesome Lake. I fussed around looking for a campsite, choosing one out in the open and near a nice waterfall. I wanted maximum wind to keep the mosquitoes down.
There were only a few other tents; evidently the weather had driven out most climbers. After a nice bath I walked around but lighting was not good for photos. I was tired and regret not dropping to Lonesome Lake to fish (next day I ran across people who caught some nice fish in the lake). At the time I was just happy to absorb the stunning views from my campsite. The monsoonal rains kept the vegetation lush and wildflowers in bloom even if a bit past peak.
Day 2. Cirque of the Towers to Pyramid Lake
11 miles, 8.7 hours, 2100 elevation
I dropped down to Lonesome Lake on a use-trail that was not the most efficient route since it became difficult to follow once to the shoreline. It was more of a fisherman’s trail at this point. After crossing the outlet on rocks, I met several CDT hikers and we all walked along the north shore and found the trail up to “Pingora Bench” where I stopped to take photos along with a CDT gal who unlike the others, wanted to go slowly up to Texas Pass to soak in the scenery. We bumped into each other all the way down to Texas Lake and had a great visit. She had been in the severe hail storm and said it was the first time she was actually scared.
The alternate CDT route through Cirque of the Towers is now an official option so has become very popular. The previously faint use-trail over Texas Pass is now quite distinct. At Barren Lake I had to decide if I would go over Illinois Pass to continue the route counter-clockwise or just get back on my original route. I chose the latter because I simply did not want to do the difficult Illinois Pass with a full pack. I left the distinct trail to check out an older trail around Billys Lake. At Shadow Lake I ate lunch with a father and his two kids and then headed downstream to the crossing of Washakie Creek at the Pyramid Lake Trail a bit after 1PM. A group was fishing and I stopped for a rest. They too were hoping to get to Pyramid Lake but a few members of their group were feeling the altitude.
There were lovely campsites at Skull Lake and fish jumping! I almost stopped, but it was still early so continued. I again kept an eye out for campsites at Mae Lake but none appealed to me. When I got up to Pyramid Lake it was exceptionally crowded, and spent almost an hour to find a somewhat secluded campsite well above the lake across the outlet. The mosquitoes were horrible and everyone fishing said the fishing was also horrible so I just walked to the inlet in the late afternoon. Dinner was a miserable exercise in trying to eat while walking in circles. It was humid and not a breath of wind. I retreated to the tent.
TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
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Wandering Daisy
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TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Sun Sep 04, 2022 1:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
Day 3. Day hike East Fork and move part-way up Hailey Pass
8.9 miles including 7.2 day-hike, 6.8 hours, 1150 elevation gain
I absolutely love the upper East Fork and this time I wanted to day-hike instead of hauling a pack there. I also wanted to check out the uppermost lake and an off-trail route from a lower lake back to Pyramid Lake. Although there are small fish on two of the lower lakes, I did not take fishing gear, instead photos were my objective. The loop took about five hours and was perfect every inch. The upper lake below the back side of Mt Bonneville was stark except for an unusual lushly vegetated top of a hill near the outlet. One could camp there. At one of the lower lakes a NOLS group was camped, their blue tents quite photogenic. Some were doing some wall climbing on Mt Geikie and others fishing. There was a come-and-go use trail back to Pyramid Lake from Lake #5 with the rock walls to the northwest very impressive and the meadow to the south lush green.
When I arrived at camp the mosquitoes were so bad that I just packed up and left. Back at the south end of Mae Lake I turned onto the trail to Hailey Pass and found a nice campsite just after crossing the unnamed creek from Twin Lakes. It was early, but weather was deteriorating and I wanted to remain in trees for shelter. I also suspected that campsites at Twin Lakes would be swampy and even more mosquitoes. At my site, I had time for a nice bath and cooked dinner before the little devils found me and I retired to the tent for the dusk onslaught. I was up on a little hill above the trail and watched a few hikers pass by.
Day 4. Continue to Baptiste Lake
4.5 miles, 6.2 hours excluding fishing, 1560 elevation gain
As usual, morning dawned clear after a humid warm night with a few sprinkles. I was up early for a mosquito free breakfast and on the trail by 6:20, quickly reaching Hailey Pass in about an hour. The trail on the east side was in much better shape than I had remembered. Only a few small snow patches had to be detoured. I waded across the mid-calf deep creek to the Baptiste Lake-Bears Ears trail junction where I met a young couple who were trail workers. They were returning from an overnight trip to Baptiste Lake for their off days-quite an achievement! The fellow told me that he had worked on the Hailey Pass trail two years ago as well as putting up numerous cairns on the trail to Baptiste Lake.
Instead of following the trail all the way to the outlet of Baptiste Lake, I crossed Baptiste Creek on rocks at the outlet of the first lake on the bench. There is a beautiful grove of trees with numerous potential campsites and some small fish in the lake. I then went directly west-northwest over a 300-foot hill to reach the south arm of Baptiste Lake. Although more elevation gain and no trail, this route is actually faster than the trail. There are campsites on both sides of the topographical gap at the south arm.
A storm was brewing, as I checked out many sites and chose one in trees, across the gap. Just as I finished setting up, the storm hit at 11AM with fierce hail and wind but minimal rain. The rest of the afternoon was spent alternately fishing and running back to the tent for waves of hail and rain. There were plenty of fish and I got a few bites, but did not land one. The surface of the large lake was quite choppy. Mosquitoes were occasionally annoying but the wind blew them away. The massive Mt Hooker loomed over the lake to the south, a huge snowmelt waterfall to the northwest and peaks across Baptiste Lake to the northeast. I was happy to be here even if skunked at fishing. Although my little campsite did not have a view, it offered good weather protection. When I wanted a view I walked a few steps from camp and sat on rocks, gazing at the scenery.
After an early fishless dinner I walked up a small valley to a small pond on the first hill as well as drop down the gap to a small bench below the south arm where there were a few marginal campsites. One last effort to fish and I packed up the rod and retired inside my tent as mosquitoes came out at dusk.
8.9 miles including 7.2 day-hike, 6.8 hours, 1150 elevation gain
I absolutely love the upper East Fork and this time I wanted to day-hike instead of hauling a pack there. I also wanted to check out the uppermost lake and an off-trail route from a lower lake back to Pyramid Lake. Although there are small fish on two of the lower lakes, I did not take fishing gear, instead photos were my objective. The loop took about five hours and was perfect every inch. The upper lake below the back side of Mt Bonneville was stark except for an unusual lushly vegetated top of a hill near the outlet. One could camp there. At one of the lower lakes a NOLS group was camped, their blue tents quite photogenic. Some were doing some wall climbing on Mt Geikie and others fishing. There was a come-and-go use trail back to Pyramid Lake from Lake #5 with the rock walls to the northwest very impressive and the meadow to the south lush green.
When I arrived at camp the mosquitoes were so bad that I just packed up and left. Back at the south end of Mae Lake I turned onto the trail to Hailey Pass and found a nice campsite just after crossing the unnamed creek from Twin Lakes. It was early, but weather was deteriorating and I wanted to remain in trees for shelter. I also suspected that campsites at Twin Lakes would be swampy and even more mosquitoes. At my site, I had time for a nice bath and cooked dinner before the little devils found me and I retired to the tent for the dusk onslaught. I was up on a little hill above the trail and watched a few hikers pass by.
Day 4. Continue to Baptiste Lake
4.5 miles, 6.2 hours excluding fishing, 1560 elevation gain
As usual, morning dawned clear after a humid warm night with a few sprinkles. I was up early for a mosquito free breakfast and on the trail by 6:20, quickly reaching Hailey Pass in about an hour. The trail on the east side was in much better shape than I had remembered. Only a few small snow patches had to be detoured. I waded across the mid-calf deep creek to the Baptiste Lake-Bears Ears trail junction where I met a young couple who were trail workers. They were returning from an overnight trip to Baptiste Lake for their off days-quite an achievement! The fellow told me that he had worked on the Hailey Pass trail two years ago as well as putting up numerous cairns on the trail to Baptiste Lake.
Instead of following the trail all the way to the outlet of Baptiste Lake, I crossed Baptiste Creek on rocks at the outlet of the first lake on the bench. There is a beautiful grove of trees with numerous potential campsites and some small fish in the lake. I then went directly west-northwest over a 300-foot hill to reach the south arm of Baptiste Lake. Although more elevation gain and no trail, this route is actually faster than the trail. There are campsites on both sides of the topographical gap at the south arm.
A storm was brewing, as I checked out many sites and chose one in trees, across the gap. Just as I finished setting up, the storm hit at 11AM with fierce hail and wind but minimal rain. The rest of the afternoon was spent alternately fishing and running back to the tent for waves of hail and rain. There were plenty of fish and I got a few bites, but did not land one. The surface of the large lake was quite choppy. Mosquitoes were occasionally annoying but the wind blew them away. The massive Mt Hooker loomed over the lake to the south, a huge snowmelt waterfall to the northwest and peaks across Baptiste Lake to the northeast. I was happy to be here even if skunked at fishing. Although my little campsite did not have a view, it offered good weather protection. When I wanted a view I walked a few steps from camp and sat on rocks, gazing at the scenery.
After an early fishless dinner I walked up a small valley to a small pond on the first hill as well as drop down the gap to a small bench below the south arm where there were a few marginal campsites. One last effort to fish and I packed up the rod and retired inside my tent as mosquitoes came out at dusk.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
Day 5. Baptiste Lake to Spearpoint Lake
4.9 miles, 4.3 hours excluding fishing, 870 elevation gain
I awoke, cooked breakfast and packed up before the sun hit my site or mosquitos got too annoying, leaving at 7AM. I walked back the same route over the hill, because it offered the best lighting to photograph Mt Hooker’s northeast face. I also spent a bit more time checking out all the potential campsites when I dropped to the grove of trees before jumping rocks back across Baptiste Creek.
While at the Bears Ears-Hailey Pass trail junction, a couple came up the trail from Grave Lake. After a bit of conversation I mentioned that I had worked for NOLS in the 1970’s. The gal just looked at me and asked my name. She was flabbergasted when we realized she was on a course I lead in 1972! I honestly did not remember her. She was a 17-year old, never had been outdoors and said that course changed her life. We parted, each having to get to our destinations before the afternoon storms.
The weather was still a bit unsettled, so I decided not go over Macon Pass off-trail directly up the valley to the south. This valley with several lakes (no fish) is quite pristine but not the best place to be in poor weather. I opted to simply walk the trail to Grave Lake where I would have many choices: camp and fish there, continue off-trail to Spearpoint Lake, stay on the trails and get to South Fork Lakes, Washakie Lake or Macon Lake; or lots of other options. The weather remained good. Evidently the eye of the previous day’s storm hit Grave Lake hard because I met several people drying out gear and there still were several inches of hail on the trail at 10AM.
I decided to try a new off-trail route to Spearpoint Lake. At first there were plenty of game trails but these died out and I ended with a bit of 3rd class climbing. I have taken three routes to Spearpoint Lake and have yet to find the best. Again, before I could really look for campsites in a small clump of trees northwest of the outlet, a storm at 11:30 forced me to quickly set up farther from the lake than preferred. After sitting out the initial rain, I walked down to the lake and, of course, walked by a much better site. I gathered water washed some clothes and took a bath. After these chores were done I went fishing. I had caught nice gold-bows (golden rainbow cross) before but this time not a bite or sign of fish. The afternoon was a repeat of the prior day- fish a bit, run back to the tent for rain, repeat, repeat. The stunning peaks across the lake were dull in the overcast lighting.
Day 6. Spearpoint Lake to Macon Lake
3 miles, 3.8 hours excluding fishing, 1035 elevation gain
I managed to get packed up and left at 7AM following a distinct game trail up to Spearpoint Pass. Someone had put of a few cairns when the best route switched from one game trail to another. Visible footprints were deer, elk or mountain sheep, not human. I took a break on the pass at 8:10 then scouted the south side and found a continuing trail that more-or-less went due south, all the way down to the end of the north “thumb” of Washakie Lake. I cannot say this is “THE” route, but it sure worked out well. Previously I had missed any good trails.
Once on the trail, I ran into crowds of people. I now had to make another route decision. I could have continued over Illinois Pass and camp at Billy’s Lake which had nice fish. Given the last two days of storms I was not keen on doing this difficult pass. The original “plan” was to then go out via Cirque of the Towers, but I had already done that. I decided to instead camp at Macon Lake, day-hike up to Macon Lake Pass to photograph the route I did not take and go over Washakie Pass the next day. I could not remember ever going over Washakie Pass so that would be new. In retrospect, I had plenty of time and should have also fished at Washakie Lake.
The trail up to Macon Lake was through lush vegetation and wildflowers and well maintained. I reached the lake at 10AM, and first looked for a campsite near the trail, as more people streamed by. To avoid the crowds, I went across the lake and at 11AM found a nice site up on a hill and under a tree, about half way down the north shore, next to a fine little bay with privacy for bathing and hungry fish lurking under the surface! I finally caught two nice fat brook trout. Brief showers came and went but the weather was definitely better than the last two days. Yes, there were annoying mosquitoes. The lazy afternoon and success with fishing was just what I needed. My fishing license now cost me $65 per fish.
4.9 miles, 4.3 hours excluding fishing, 870 elevation gain
I awoke, cooked breakfast and packed up before the sun hit my site or mosquitos got too annoying, leaving at 7AM. I walked back the same route over the hill, because it offered the best lighting to photograph Mt Hooker’s northeast face. I also spent a bit more time checking out all the potential campsites when I dropped to the grove of trees before jumping rocks back across Baptiste Creek.
While at the Bears Ears-Hailey Pass trail junction, a couple came up the trail from Grave Lake. After a bit of conversation I mentioned that I had worked for NOLS in the 1970’s. The gal just looked at me and asked my name. She was flabbergasted when we realized she was on a course I lead in 1972! I honestly did not remember her. She was a 17-year old, never had been outdoors and said that course changed her life. We parted, each having to get to our destinations before the afternoon storms.
The weather was still a bit unsettled, so I decided not go over Macon Pass off-trail directly up the valley to the south. This valley with several lakes (no fish) is quite pristine but not the best place to be in poor weather. I opted to simply walk the trail to Grave Lake where I would have many choices: camp and fish there, continue off-trail to Spearpoint Lake, stay on the trails and get to South Fork Lakes, Washakie Lake or Macon Lake; or lots of other options. The weather remained good. Evidently the eye of the previous day’s storm hit Grave Lake hard because I met several people drying out gear and there still were several inches of hail on the trail at 10AM.
I decided to try a new off-trail route to Spearpoint Lake. At first there were plenty of game trails but these died out and I ended with a bit of 3rd class climbing. I have taken three routes to Spearpoint Lake and have yet to find the best. Again, before I could really look for campsites in a small clump of trees northwest of the outlet, a storm at 11:30 forced me to quickly set up farther from the lake than preferred. After sitting out the initial rain, I walked down to the lake and, of course, walked by a much better site. I gathered water washed some clothes and took a bath. After these chores were done I went fishing. I had caught nice gold-bows (golden rainbow cross) before but this time not a bite or sign of fish. The afternoon was a repeat of the prior day- fish a bit, run back to the tent for rain, repeat, repeat. The stunning peaks across the lake were dull in the overcast lighting.
Day 6. Spearpoint Lake to Macon Lake
3 miles, 3.8 hours excluding fishing, 1035 elevation gain
I managed to get packed up and left at 7AM following a distinct game trail up to Spearpoint Pass. Someone had put of a few cairns when the best route switched from one game trail to another. Visible footprints were deer, elk or mountain sheep, not human. I took a break on the pass at 8:10 then scouted the south side and found a continuing trail that more-or-less went due south, all the way down to the end of the north “thumb” of Washakie Lake. I cannot say this is “THE” route, but it sure worked out well. Previously I had missed any good trails.
Once on the trail, I ran into crowds of people. I now had to make another route decision. I could have continued over Illinois Pass and camp at Billy’s Lake which had nice fish. Given the last two days of storms I was not keen on doing this difficult pass. The original “plan” was to then go out via Cirque of the Towers, but I had already done that. I decided to instead camp at Macon Lake, day-hike up to Macon Lake Pass to photograph the route I did not take and go over Washakie Pass the next day. I could not remember ever going over Washakie Pass so that would be new. In retrospect, I had plenty of time and should have also fished at Washakie Lake.
The trail up to Macon Lake was through lush vegetation and wildflowers and well maintained. I reached the lake at 10AM, and first looked for a campsite near the trail, as more people streamed by. To avoid the crowds, I went across the lake and at 11AM found a nice site up on a hill and under a tree, about half way down the north shore, next to a fine little bay with privacy for bathing and hungry fish lurking under the surface! I finally caught two nice fat brook trout. Brief showers came and went but the weather was definitely better than the last two days. Yes, there were annoying mosquitoes. The lazy afternoon and success with fishing was just what I needed. My fishing license now cost me $65 per fish.
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Wed Sep 14, 2022 6:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
Day 7. Macon Lake to Mirror Lake including day-hike to Macon Pass
10.7 miles, 9.8 hours, 2090 elevation gain
I got up early for my day-hike because I needed the early morning light to photograph the cirque surrounding Tolar and Chain Lakes. I quickly ate breakfast and headed up 1000 feet to the pass arriving at 7:30 and spent half an hour photographing from the south edge of the cirque. Sunlight never quite hit right, but the cirque still was very impressive. Back at camp I packed up and left at 9AM. There was a snowfield that had to be crossed near the top of Washakie Pass which I reached 10AM and met a few people. The trail down to the Pyramid Lake Trail junction was lovely and I ate lunch on a little buttress with a good view of Skull Lake. I only had to repeat one mile back to the Washakie Creek Crossing.
I would now go out the route I had planned to go in. The little creek next to the trail had dried up and I was mighty thirsty when I reached Marms Lake where I was finally able to have a good drink. Marms was my “must get to” destination but was always quite crowded with campers. I continue to Dads Lake, where I was shocked to find tons of tents where I had planned to camp. After walking around unable to find a campsite I simply went back to the trail and continued up the trail to Mirror Lake.
A group with llamas was unpacking when I reached the north end, so I continued around to the south end unable to find a campsite until I reached the outlet. The llama group had also decided to move camp at the outlet, so the north end established campsite was now available. It was odd that they chose not to use the established site, which was by far the better campsite. I walked all the way around the lake and landed where I had been half an hour earlier! It was 4PM and I set up, took a discrete bath and cooked dinner. There were some small fish in the lake but I decided the fishing was not worth the effort. I was tired after the long day.
I went over to the llama group to say hello and found out it was a commercial trip of mostly older folks and they were headed to Pyramid Lake for two days. I hope they would have less people and mosquitoes up there than I had a week earlier.
Day 8. Mirror Lake to Big Sandy TH including side-trip to Divide Lake
5.6 miles, 2.6 hours, 260 elevation gain
The remaining walk out was quick. I went off-trail to check out Divide Lake for future trips; it was a swamp with poor camping so am glad I found that out.
When I came to the trail junction about a mile from the trailhead, I turned right onto a big trail that soon became a mess of downed trees. Fortunately a couple came towards me and said the trail was no passable. Two years ago there was a huge blow-down and the Forest Service has only cleared the major trails at this point. We turned around and found a less used trail that headed through a meadow and past a USGS section corner marker. This trail soon linked with the main trail to Big Sandy Lake. There was a sign here too. The USGS map does not show this little maze of trails, so I now had a partial explanation for my missing it. There was a sign labeled “CDT” but since I ran into all the CDT hikers on Jackass Pass, this sign did not ring the bell in my head as the trail I needed to take.
Days off in Lander
A car was waiting to grab my parking spot as soon as I left. I drove slowly on the way out to avoid scraping the bottom of my car. It took nearly 2 hours to reach the South Pass highway. Soon I heard a clump-clump-clump, pulled over and found a flat tire. Thankfully it was a paved pullout and thankfully next to a cell phone tower. I called my husband and he said since we have AAA just call them. I made an appointment, but the help had to come from Riverton and the wait would be at least an hour- very few AAA service centers in Wyoming. I then started unloading my trunk since the spare tire was under it all. A beat up old red truck drove by, turned around and pulled over. What was my problem? Flat tire and AAA called. The weather beaten fellow said, “no worry, I can fix it in no time.” He fixed the tire in less time than it took me to cancel AAA, refused any payment and then followed me all the way to Lander to make sure I got there. The fellow said he had a “shop” (old ambulance) along the Big Sandy Road and shoed horses for the local ranchers. He said the road “eats a lot of tires”.
The tire was not repairable so I decided to buy new tires. I really should have done this before leaving home. Problem was that my tires are odd sized and nobody in Lander had them in stock. After three days the order never came so I called the Riverton Walmart and they said they had seven in stock and come over within the next hour. I rushed over and after an hour they sheepishly said they only had three because someone bought four on the internet and already picked them up. They gave me a big discount and said they should have physically checked what they had before having me do a 50+mile round trip. I bought two and would buy the other two when I got home. Next day I drove over South Pass to Pinedale and up to Elkhart Trailhead to start my third trip. Nobody in Pinedale had the tires either, so I just hoped the two remaining old ones would last until I got home.
10.7 miles, 9.8 hours, 2090 elevation gain
I got up early for my day-hike because I needed the early morning light to photograph the cirque surrounding Tolar and Chain Lakes. I quickly ate breakfast and headed up 1000 feet to the pass arriving at 7:30 and spent half an hour photographing from the south edge of the cirque. Sunlight never quite hit right, but the cirque still was very impressive. Back at camp I packed up and left at 9AM. There was a snowfield that had to be crossed near the top of Washakie Pass which I reached 10AM and met a few people. The trail down to the Pyramid Lake Trail junction was lovely and I ate lunch on a little buttress with a good view of Skull Lake. I only had to repeat one mile back to the Washakie Creek Crossing.
I would now go out the route I had planned to go in. The little creek next to the trail had dried up and I was mighty thirsty when I reached Marms Lake where I was finally able to have a good drink. Marms was my “must get to” destination but was always quite crowded with campers. I continue to Dads Lake, where I was shocked to find tons of tents where I had planned to camp. After walking around unable to find a campsite I simply went back to the trail and continued up the trail to Mirror Lake.
A group with llamas was unpacking when I reached the north end, so I continued around to the south end unable to find a campsite until I reached the outlet. The llama group had also decided to move camp at the outlet, so the north end established campsite was now available. It was odd that they chose not to use the established site, which was by far the better campsite. I walked all the way around the lake and landed where I had been half an hour earlier! It was 4PM and I set up, took a discrete bath and cooked dinner. There were some small fish in the lake but I decided the fishing was not worth the effort. I was tired after the long day.
I went over to the llama group to say hello and found out it was a commercial trip of mostly older folks and they were headed to Pyramid Lake for two days. I hope they would have less people and mosquitoes up there than I had a week earlier.
Day 8. Mirror Lake to Big Sandy TH including side-trip to Divide Lake
5.6 miles, 2.6 hours, 260 elevation gain
The remaining walk out was quick. I went off-trail to check out Divide Lake for future trips; it was a swamp with poor camping so am glad I found that out.
When I came to the trail junction about a mile from the trailhead, I turned right onto a big trail that soon became a mess of downed trees. Fortunately a couple came towards me and said the trail was no passable. Two years ago there was a huge blow-down and the Forest Service has only cleared the major trails at this point. We turned around and found a less used trail that headed through a meadow and past a USGS section corner marker. This trail soon linked with the main trail to Big Sandy Lake. There was a sign here too. The USGS map does not show this little maze of trails, so I now had a partial explanation for my missing it. There was a sign labeled “CDT” but since I ran into all the CDT hikers on Jackass Pass, this sign did not ring the bell in my head as the trail I needed to take.
Days off in Lander
A car was waiting to grab my parking spot as soon as I left. I drove slowly on the way out to avoid scraping the bottom of my car. It took nearly 2 hours to reach the South Pass highway. Soon I heard a clump-clump-clump, pulled over and found a flat tire. Thankfully it was a paved pullout and thankfully next to a cell phone tower. I called my husband and he said since we have AAA just call them. I made an appointment, but the help had to come from Riverton and the wait would be at least an hour- very few AAA service centers in Wyoming. I then started unloading my trunk since the spare tire was under it all. A beat up old red truck drove by, turned around and pulled over. What was my problem? Flat tire and AAA called. The weather beaten fellow said, “no worry, I can fix it in no time.” He fixed the tire in less time than it took me to cancel AAA, refused any payment and then followed me all the way to Lander to make sure I got there. The fellow said he had a “shop” (old ambulance) along the Big Sandy Road and shoed horses for the local ranchers. He said the road “eats a lot of tires”.
The tire was not repairable so I decided to buy new tires. I really should have done this before leaving home. Problem was that my tires are odd sized and nobody in Lander had them in stock. After three days the order never came so I called the Riverton Walmart and they said they had seven in stock and come over within the next hour. I rushed over and after an hour they sheepishly said they only had three because someone bought four on the internet and already picked them up. They gave me a big discount and said they should have physically checked what they had before having me do a 50+mile round trip. I bought two and would buy the other two when I got home. Next day I drove over South Pass to Pinedale and up to Elkhart Trailhead to start my third trip. Nobody in Pinedale had the tires either, so I just hoped the two remaining old ones would last until I got home.
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Sun Sep 11, 2022 7:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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giantbrookie
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
I have never been to the Wind Rivers which makes these reports extra enjoyable. The scenery is so striking. Sure, we too have glaciated granitic high country in our Sierra Nevada, but the massive nature of those Wind River walls, buttresses, and towers is really stunning. The composite adventure of the experience from the crazy weather, to bugs, to people, etc., makes for a terrific read as I sit back at home (on the most popular high country weekend of the year).
Sorry to hear about the fishing and the bugs. Whereas I don't have as adverse a license fee to fish ratio, my overall fishing expense this season has been pretty horrendous. I don't know how many lures I lost in the early season trips (two overnighters) but in the July-August trips I spent 10 days in the High Sierra spread over four trips and lost a staggering total of 33 lures, nearly all of which were 3/8 oz Kastmasters. If you figure about $7 each (including tax), this is about $230 of lures plus the regular CA resident fishing license ($54) the 18 fish caught during those 10 days came at a premium, even if at a lower "unit price" than your Wyoming fish. Thank goodness that fishing isn't the sole focus of trips to the high mountains.
Anyway, thanks for the wonderful trip reports. They are a welcome break from my work tasks (writing papers and reviewing manuscripts).
Sorry to hear about the fishing and the bugs. Whereas I don't have as adverse a license fee to fish ratio, my overall fishing expense this season has been pretty horrendous. I don't know how many lures I lost in the early season trips (two overnighters) but in the July-August trips I spent 10 days in the High Sierra spread over four trips and lost a staggering total of 33 lures, nearly all of which were 3/8 oz Kastmasters. If you figure about $7 each (including tax), this is about $230 of lures plus the regular CA resident fishing license ($54) the 18 fish caught during those 10 days came at a premium, even if at a lower "unit price" than your Wyoming fish. Thank goodness that fishing isn't the sole focus of trips to the high mountains.
Anyway, thanks for the wonderful trip reports. They are a welcome break from my work tasks (writing papers and reviewing manuscripts).
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
I would not say that the rock walls in the Wind Rivers are more "massive" than those in the Sierra. Relative size of the peaks look high partly because the trees are much shorter. Sierra trees are proportionally taller as is the overall topographical relief. Also because much of the divide is an old erosional surface with the "peaks" on either side carved out by glaciers (classic U-shaped valleys), the entire range has the look of much more glaciated mountains. The northern part of the range has darker, less clean rock and has a "lumpy" overall look, yet plenty of canyons and cliffs, just not as sheer and clean looking. You will see this difference when I post the photos from last two trips, which were done in the northern part of the range.
My daily elevation gains in the Winds are about 1,500 feet per day, sometimes 2,000; whereas, daily elevation gains in the Sierra are closer to 3,000. The Sierra are a larger range, both in distance and elevation differences. The Wind Rivers are much more compact. The good thing is that you can get to a lot of lakes in very short distances. I think the Winds have more lakes per square mile than the Sierra. Fishing is generally very good. This year was very odd with unusually warm temperatures and high humidity. Maybe the fish preferred to hang out deep int he lakes and I would have done better with a spin fishing. Also if I were a morning fisherman, I probably would have done better.
My daily elevation gains in the Winds are about 1,500 feet per day, sometimes 2,000; whereas, daily elevation gains in the Sierra are closer to 3,000. The Sierra are a larger range, both in distance and elevation differences. The Wind Rivers are much more compact. The good thing is that you can get to a lot of lakes in very short distances. I think the Winds have more lakes per square mile than the Sierra. Fishing is generally very good. This year was very odd with unusually warm temperatures and high humidity. Maybe the fish preferred to hang out deep int he lakes and I would have done better with a spin fishing. Also if I were a morning fisherman, I probably would have done better.
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grampy
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
Daisy-
Thanks for the great report ! (both of them, actually). I’m not sure I’ll ever do an actual backpack trip in that area, but hope to at least do a road trip or two up there, so my wife can see it as well. Really beautiful country !
Thanks for the great report ! (both of them, actually). I’m not sure I’ll ever do an actual backpack trip in that area, but hope to at least do a road trip or two up there, so my wife can see it as well. Really beautiful country !
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wildhiker
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
Thank you for posting these Wind River trip reports for us armchair adventurers. There are many beautiful mountain ranges in the West, and the Wind River Range looks really spectacular in your photos, and I would like to visit some of those places. In my younger days I hiked and backpacked in many high ranges in Nevada, quite a few ranges in Colorado, and a few in the rest of the West. As I have aged, I find travel more tiresome and since I live in the Bay Area, I have to cross the Sierra to get to those other ranges, and the Sierra is so nice that I always think why bother to go any further? I know, first world problem :-).
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robertseeburger
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
I loved the trip report.
This is one of the areas near the top of my list!
Mount Hooker is impressive, and the East Fork, Baptiste Lake, Spearpoint Lake..Too many places to go..
I know Big Sandy is perhaps the most popular..not sure if it is Big Sandy or Elkhart Park trailhead..
I guess I am not surprised you saw lots of people on this trip. And of course..July lots of mosquitoes.
Ouch on the flat tire issue. That sounds like it was painful...
This is one of the areas near the top of my list!
Mount Hooker is impressive, and the East Fork, Baptiste Lake, Spearpoint Lake..Too many places to go..
I know Big Sandy is perhaps the most popular..not sure if it is Big Sandy or Elkhart Park trailhead..
I guess I am not surprised you saw lots of people on this trip. And of course..July lots of mosquitoes.
Ouch on the flat tire issue. That sounds like it was painful...
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balzaccom
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Re: TR: Wind Rivers 2022 Trip 2
Thank you again, Daisy, for posting these adventures. Like Giantbrookie, I have never been to the Winds (almost last summer after Yellowstone, but family plans changed) and your reports are the next best thing.
Check our our website: http://www.backpackthesierra.com/
Or just read a good mystery novel set in the Sierra; https://www.amazon.com/Danger-Falling-R ... 0984884963
Or just read a good mystery novel set in the Sierra; https://www.amazon.com/Danger-Falling-R ... 0984884963
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