I hope that this TR is not too long winded or filled with too many pictures. I wanted to make a really nice one since all of you helped so much!
Day 1: Maxon TH to The forest just before the Post Coral Crossing
After the long drive, Jasmine Rose, Meital and I started out. On the road, we passed two 4WD vehicles with people walking outside directing a camera for the driver.
We turned onto the trail where we could enjoy the walk in the lovely forest! There was a detour around the rotten wood that was a small bridge. I was glad because in 2019, already, that rotten bridge gave out under my boot. Giant red firs, and junipers were beautiful and the rainbow of flowers cheered us on! In the forest, we startled several quail that fluttered up to the trees. We also saw a deer.
Meital and Jasmine Rose
And this is me and Jasmine Rose We would get really sick of hiking in sand by the end of the trip!
Our first giant red fir
Long Meadow
The first of many giant junipers
We got to camp late and were dismayed to see Post Coral barely flowing. I was able to find a mini cascade from which to filter and fill our buckets to bring water back to camp.
Day 2 Post Coral to Rae Lake
My last trip here had been 6/2019 and my daughter and I had been here 6/2016. This trip, we could not believe how small and dry Post Coral was. It was literally less than ¼ the width and a dry crossing. The two previous times, it had been above my knees, ICY COLD and WIDE. So much so that by the middle, your feet were in pain from the cold and by the end, they had gone totally numb.
We started the tough climb up to Fleming. We met a large group of boys and their two leaders who had been out over 2 weeks with no rain. We enjoyed the forest delights and the views when we got to clearings…But it was slow, tough going. At one point, I stopped for a break and checked the GPS, “WHAT! ALL THAT TIME and we only went ½ mile!!!!” However, by that time, the steepest of the climbing was over. We still climbed, but it was more moderate. We stopped for lunch in a flat spot in the forest, admired the lovely trees and marveled at how many ecosystems we had climbed through and how the trees had changed. Then, we steeled ourselves for the last push to Fleming. @kpeter your description of trail conditions was dead on accurate!
We took a break at pretty Fleming Lake. I snacked and studied the map to decide if we would push on to Disappointment Lake or make an early arrival at Rae, while my daughter shot pictures. We decided on the latter and certainly were happy with the decision.
We made camp at the first place possible on the north side of the lake, tied the ursacks and went for a walk around the lake. Rae is a lovely lake and we were happy to be there. On the northwest side, we found a large campsite that afforded views of Blackrock and the surrounding mountains. We knew that from that direction, there would be a spectacular alpenglow sunset. Ah Well. The mosquitos were much worse there and we were glad to be walking without packs already. We continued circumventing the lake.
At the south side, there are many little pools and outlets. We climbed up a little pile of granite and got a very nice view of Fleming Lake. We saw a mama duck and her babies swimming as fast as ever to the center of the lake. By the time I got my camera out, I was still able to catch them with an extreme zoom. On the east side the sun sparkled on the clear blue water as it began to sink below the mountains. Back near camp, there was a large boulder that made us a sort of peninsula. We took our boots off, sat at the edge and dangled our feet in the cold water. OH- What could ever be better!
Our "Rock Peninsula" at Rae Lake
Views of Red Mountain
Circumventing Rae Lake
The lovely view from the northwest campsite
Ducks!
The southeast side of pretty Rae Lake
YEAH for the Damsel Flies!
Day 3: Rae Lake to Disappointment Lake and day hike to Blackrock Lake
During the night, as is often my habit, I got up with Jasmine Rose to see the night. The moon was glowing brightly in the lake and casting its beautiful silvery glow on the granite. Indeed, I got up every night of this trip to admire the lovely summer nights. It was so hot, that Jas asked for a drink every night. She usually doesn’t drink at night, even at home. Indeed, I stopped getting into my sleeping bag for the remainder of the trip and just loosely draped it over me, like a blanket, for the remainder of our nights.
Sunrise and moon set at Rae Lake
The morning was brisk and this would be the one and only time the entire trip that we needed our down jackets and gloves. I was glad that it was cool and we headed out for Disappointment Lake. We met a dad and daughter coming down and they gave us info about the trail up to Hell For Sure Pass. By the time we got to Disappointment Lake, it was clear that a thunderstorm was brewing. There were so many campsites with great views but I opted for the most sheltered and, what appeared to be, the safest in a thunderstorm, on the northeast side.
We saw two big, fat marmots and Jasmine Rose went crazy, she was dying to eat them! She eats squirrels at home so the marmots must have been a tempting treat for her. The dog acts like she never gets fed! UGGG! That is why that dog cannot be trusted off leash. SIGH!
Does it matter that it is only 11:30am? We made camp so where is my dinner?
We made camp, ate lunch and headed off to Blackrock Lake. Despite studying the map and my route, I took us on a wrong detour before getting us on the easiest path to the lake. The way to Blackrock was so pretty and THAT TOURQUOISE GREEN WATER WAS STUNNING! WOW! The mosquitos were hungry. We shot pictures, enjoyed the lake from every angle possible, and headed back to a nice warm wash up, a hot dinner, and, what we hoped would be, a grand Sierra sunset.
Following the drainage to Blackrock
The drainage to the little unnamed lake was a little pool
Blackrock Mountain
That stunning clear, turquoise green water
View of Hell For Sure Pass
Disappointment from the West
Disappointment from our camp on the northeast
We met two fellows and their dog looking to make camp at Disappointment Lake. They intended to camp near the drainage on the southeast. There were nice campsites there, but we were glad for ours because our sunset was one of the best I have ever seen in the Sierra! The color show lasted nearly an hour anI saw a few bats! That night, the stars were spectacular and, well after midnight, the full moon rose and gave a gorgeous show in the lake. The silvery granite and the moon and the trees all reflected in the lake. Just beautiful! Every time I take my nighttime walks, I wish that I could capture the scene with my camera. I know that there is equipment that can shoot it, but I will leave it to the pros.
Day 4: Disappointment Lake to Hell for Sure Lake, Hell for Sure Pass, Horseshoe Lake and back to Disappointment Lake
The nights continued to be hot and the days hotter. We had planned to take @michaelzim route up to Red Mountain. However, it looked so dry and hot on that open granite that we opted to take the trail. We were not sorry. It was so pretty dotted with flowers, little lakes and dwarfed trees.
Hell For Sure Lake
Going up to the pass was lush!
The views got better and better as we walked… And the clouds were building and building as well. After Hell for Sure Lake, we were pleasantly surprised at how lush it was going up to the pass. There were the same bright green grasses that we had admired on our first day and a carpet of flowers of every color. We were feeling the altitude and it was slow for us, but we enjoyed the views. At the top, I was disappointed that the view of Goddard Canyon was blocked and that the view of the mountains to the Northeast was also blocked. I went down the trail, around and outcropping of boulders, still no view. I didn’t want to go much further since Meital and Jasmine rose were waiting for me and the clouds were ever growing. When I came back to the pass, Meital decided to see if she could get a better view from the use trail going up Red Mountain. Nope, it was not much better. However, the view to the west was magnificent. The wind began to really pick up and we decided to head down.
From the pass, looking down at Hell For Sure Lake
We ran into the two fellows with the dog from the day before. They were resting in the shade on their way up to the pass. They said that their dog was feeling the altitude. It turned out that they were doing our exact trip backwards. That morning, they had come from The unnamed lake, Horseshoe and now the pass. We were going back via Horseshoe and The unnamed lake. The previous two days, they had come from Kings to Disappointment and we were going to Kings the following day. They intended to spend their next night at Rae so I told them about the ducks and the campsite on the west side.
We got to Hell for Sure and I was looking for the cut off to get to Horseshoe. Here comes the big navigation error… Judging by the shape of the lake, I saw where I should turn away from the lake and head up the granite. However, it looked steeper than I interpreted on the map. So, we continued around the lake to a place that was not as steep. Yeah! Horseshoe was below us.
Overlooking Horseshoe Lake
By now, the clouds were serious in the east and it was, at the same time hot on the granite when the sun came out from behind the clouds. We were glad to get to that beautiful lake. We saw @Wandering Daisy peninsula. We were dying to take a walk out to the peninsula but the clouds were really getting threatening now and it was just all so EXPOSED! So, we continued around the lake. All the time, nagging in the back of my head, had been a post I read on HST “We saw Wandering Daisy’s peninsula but knew it would be tricky route finding to get there.”My daughter was already nervous about the clouds so I kept that thought to myself.
Then we saw it… an impassible cliff going straight down into the lake!! OMG… AND THE CLOUDS! Well, there was nothing for it, we had to go back up the ridge that separated Hell For Sure and Horseshoe, walk the ridge and come back down where I had questioned my daughter “What do you think? It looks, by that distinct curve in the lake, like we go up here but the topo doesn’t look so steep.” She had just given me her usual answer, “I don’t know, whatever you think.”
So, back we went. Just as we made the ridge… BOOOM!!! The thunderstorm was coming fast. I knew how to get to horseshoe now, and, theoretically, from there The unnamed lake was a piece of cake. From Unnamed lake it would be easy to follow the drainage back to the same path we had taken to Blackrock the day before. It was shorter than going around Hell For Sure Lake and back to the trail. …But could we afford another of my famous off trail detours in such an exposed place? Those were my thoughts in that split second of the thunder. I opted for the known and led us light speed to the trail. We heard booms over the Le Conte Divide as we descended back to camp. We got to enjoy lunch in camp and then the first drops fell. We waited out the storm in the tent. We chattered and then Jas and I snoozed. Meital counted seconds between booms and flashes. The rain began to let up, I decided that I had had enough, put on my poncho and enjoyed the last of the storm raining in the lake. Directly at the edge of the lake, there were always swarms of mosquitoes and it was nice to enjoy it without them.
The end of the storm from camp at Disappointment
The rain stopped just in time for the very best sunset show I have ever seen! It went on for well over an hour. The mountains glowed golden, then orange, then red in the South. To the west, we had orange silhouettes that turned to pinks and purples. The northwestern clouds turned from pink to red to purple, back to pink, orange and set! No exaggeration! All of that lined with silvery grey of clouds that did not pick up the color. The star show was equally fantastic as was the nighttime moon glow.
I was disappointed that we did not get to walk out on the peninsula and also see Horseshoe from the other side and actually get to see those cliffs from below. Also, I am sure that the way down to Unnamed was probably beautiful and I certainly need the navigation practice in a place where you really cannot get lost, just detoured. However, we both agreed that it was a great day, one of the best of the trip.
Day 5: Disappointment Lake to Devil’s Punchbowl, Big and Little Shot Lakes, Meadow Brook and Kings River
In the morning, I saw what I think was a red breasted robin. I also found the two halves of a small, pale blue egg. (Did the two go together? ) The bird song had been fantastic every morning at both Disappointment and Rae Lakes and this morning was no different. We said goodbye to our delightful campsite at that beautiful lake and headed out to Devil’s Punchbowl Lake. I had wanted to see the sunset from the famous ridge over Devil’s Punchbowl Lake, but after yesterday’s fantastic show, we were happy that we had been at Disappointment Lake.
When we arrived at Devil’s, we marveled at the beaches and how pretty the lake was. This was the first time that a lake was not the same shape as on the map. I guess it was because the water is so low, but Devil’s Punchbowl Lake had multiple mini peninsulas of granite in real life. However, on the map, only one outcropping that was big, clear and distinct. We dropped our packs at the Lake, tied our ursacks and hiked out to beautiful Big and Little Shot Lakes. How pretty they are!!!
Devil's Punchbowl
Beaches at Devil's Punchbowl
Big Shot Lake
Anyway, the clouds began building up again and after our visit to the lakes, we ate a quick lunch and headed up to go down. The trail was hard to follow after the view of Jigger Lakes and then the thunder began. We picked our way up the ridge. It took forever. I wanted to go the most expedient way and stay on the trail but it was constantly disappearing. Finally, we got to forest and began to high tail down. The storm was really going now up in the Basin and we were getting drizzle.
The red firs were beautiful and Meadow Brook was also wonderful. However, we had our cameras in our packs, safe from the rain and did not stop until it let up. Nearly at the end of Meadow Brook, the rain subsided and I got my camera for a few shots. The entire way down, I could not help noticing how many giant firs had had their heads blown off by lightning strikes. So much for safer conditions in the forest at lower altitude! We enjoyed the rest of the way down through that beautiful forest alongside that dancing, flower lined creek. We saw lots of giant, coal black lizards along the way.
After the Blackcap Basin junction
Can you see the black mason bee?
Not long after the meadow and the cabin, there were lots of downed trees and it made for slow going. SIGH, by then we were tired and wanted to make camp. Finally we got to Fleming Creek. WHAT!!! It was dry and barely dribbling. In June of 2016, it had been ROARING!! When we got to Kings, we barely recognized it. There were now trail ducks where there had been a pool in which we had filled our water buckets. Our old campsite, which had been just about 100’ from that pool (now the trail ducks) was so far from the river it was unbelievable. We made camp at another campsite that was now legal and, back then, would have been literally at the water’s edge and partly in the water. Jas and I crossed back and forth, a dry crossing, over the Kings easily. The deepest pool was about to my knees.
Camp at the Kings
Day 6: From Kings River to Maxon TH
However, the sun was setting and dancing and glowing on the water and it was still a pretty setting. The granite is still magnificent and the Junipers still giant and gorgeous. The moonlight on the river and the morning colors glowing on the river were still very pretty.
The next morning, we did not have to rush and we had a slow breakfast and shot pictures. I wanted to go one more time across the river for that view, I slipped and fell in. It had been a cool morning and was wearing polartec. UGGG, there was no way it would dry by the time we left and despite my best efforts to wring out my pants and socks, I would be carrying about 2 lbs of unwanted water! SIGH. My daughter and I had a good laugh over it. She took the tent poles to help out. Once the cloud cover began to clear, it was obvious that it would be a hot day; too hot for Jas to carry her pack. No last day light pack for this girl. We climbed up and away from the Kings and made our last goodbyes to the granite mountains.
It was a pretty, but uneventful walk back. We began talking about a stop at a market and cherries, blueberries and salad. Despite the fact that it was a Monday, there were lots of people in Long Meadow. We enjoyed the forest for the last time. When we got to the road, we nearly got mowed down by a huge group of about 30 youths with backpacks and their multitude of chaperones. You would think that the adults would teach them manners and to share the trail with other hikers. We had to get off of the road not to get run over. SIGH, we were back in civilization.
On the way home, we played a game that we have not played in a very long time because we have not been on a trip good enough to play it, “What was your favorite day of the trip?” We discussed the best days and why they were best and the order of best to least best. It was hard since every day was so great. We decided that the Pass Day would have been best but tied for the Blackrock day because of the storm. The Rae Lake day was a close second but, ugg, that climb. Meadow Brook day was tied with the Rae day because of the rain. The two days to and from the TH were a close third.
