Mist Trail/Clouds Rest/Panorama Trail/Four Mile Trail and Valley day-hikes
Taking advantage of the last days of self-registration free permits, I headed to Yosemite on Wednesday arriving in the Valley just before noon. There was much confusion on finding the self-registration, trying to get information on conditions and indecision on which route to do. There were lots of permits for all trailheads. I had planned on the North Rim Traverse, but reports were of miserable snow conditions so I reluctantly decided to do a route on the South Rim. I could climb Clouds Rest, which I failed to do last year and had not been up in 20 years, walk the Panorama Trail to Glacier Point and exit the Four-Mile Trail or the Pohono Trail, depending on conditions. The logistical difficulty doing Four Mile was that I may have to camp illegally; the difficulty with the Pohono Trail was the long walk back to my car.
Since this was my first backpack this season, I was horribly disorganized. It was 3PM before I got set up at the Backpacker’s campground, parked my car and got back to camp. First I walked back to Yosemite Village taking photos, returning via Mirror Lake where there actually was water in the lake and a reflection of Half Dome. Returning to camp at 6PM a bear was knocking around my campsite and slowly meandered off when I approached. I was the only one in camp except an empty tent in the next site. I cooked dinner and had a beer. I walked back and forth to the bridge for cell reception to call home. My poor husband was dealing with an ant invasion! At dark I called it a day early and heard the occupants of the other tent return.
Day 1: 4/29 BPCG-Happy Isles-Clouds Rest Trail junction
6.9 miles, 6.8 hours, 3435 feet elevation gain, 155 feet loss
I awoke to a nippy temperature at 6:30 and when I got out of the tent I met my neighbors, an older couple. On their first trip of the season, they were just as disorganized as me. We both bumbled around and left at 8AM and said we would probably see each other on the trail. Back at my car it took me an hour to get re-packed and change clothes. The couple was taking the JMT to avoid getting wet. I was debating the Mist Trail or JMT, but once at the junction, chose the Mist Trail. I was so glad I did since it was the least “misty” that I have ever experienced, allowing better photographing. I hit the time right for the “rainbow”. I had forgotten that all those steps are much harder carrying a full pack! Pleasantly, there were few day-hikers. I ate lunch at the top of Nevada Falls but light was poor for photos.
Arriving at Little Yosemite Valley campground, I was tired and almost wished I had written myself a permit to stay there. But continuing to the Clouds Rest junction was better logistically so I plodded up the trail. About half way up I heard a hiss and rattle as a snake was sunning himself on the trail next to a tree. I ran into a few day-hikers going to or from Half Dome.
I reached Sunrise Creek at the junction at 2:15PM and took nearly half an hour walking around deciding on campsites. As usual, I settled for the first one. Last year I camped east of the creek and campsites were marginal. All the good camping is on the west side and I had plenty to choose from. I gathered water, set up, wandered around, cooked dinner and was in the tent early. I saw nobody since I left the trail to Half Dome.
TR Yosemite 4/27-5/1
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Wandering Daisy
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TR Yosemite 4/27-5/1
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Wed May 04, 2022 7:38 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: TR Yosemite 4/28-5/1
Day 2: 4/30 Climb Clouds Rest and drop to LYV campground
7.5 miles, 6.1 hours, 2580 feet elevation gain, 3700 feet loss
I awoke to sore muscles and freezing temperature. Although my water bottle outside the tent did not freeze, the minute I poured it into my cup it iced. I wore nearly everything I brought! My tent sets up on trekking poles; I left the tent up and later wished I had my trekking poles. I started up the trail all bundled up and in an hour shed layers. It was cool in the shade, but hot in the sun. Snow started showing up at the flat at 9,000 feet. A bit later, the trail rounded a bend and all I could see was snow on the trail. I left the trail for the ridge, thinking it would have less snow. I came back on the trail and it was “six of one- half dozen other” as to which route had less snow. I did get to see all the sub-pinnacles south of Clouds Rest. There was snow covering the steps to the summit (here is where I wished for my trekking poles). On the summit at 11:00 I spent half an hour eating lunch and photographing. Lighting was not optimal and there was too much haze in Yosemite Valley. It was nippy up top with a stiff breeze.
The descent was tough on my knees. Back at camp I packed up and dropped to LYV campground, adding to my knee misery. Now both uphill and downhill muscles ached! I found the couple I met, told them I would talk with them later, quickly dropped my pack at a site and headed for the “day-use” area upstream of the Ranger Station, where there is a nice grassy bank to Sunrise Creek where I took a bucket bath. It felt so good! But I forgot to bring my water bottles so had to repeat the trek to the creek for water. I prefer the creek water to the Merced River water.
Once set up I had a great visit with the other couple, two retired college professors and longtime Sierra backpackers. They stayed in LYV two days and did day-hikes. The campground was only about a third full, so not bad at all. A group of younger folks were having a large campfire and gathering nearby, but since I always take a sleep mask and ear plugs, it did not bother me. A young couple nearby were climbing Snake Dike the next day and a young gal was on her first backpack ever. Well, I guess from my perspective everyone is “young”. All in all it was a nice mix of people; very different than the mid-season zoo.
Day 3: 5/1 LYV CG to BPCG (Valley) via Panorama and Four Mile Trails
14.0 miles, 9.7 hours, 2660 feet elevation gain, 4520 feet loss
The intent when I left camp at 9:15 was to camp somewhere by Glacier Point, preferably a stealth camp on Sentinel Creek if I could get to it without slogging through too much snow. I would just see how it turned out. This was to be my “easy rest day”. I had enough food to go out Pohono Trail, so that too was a possibility. At the Illilouette Bridge a couple told me of their continuous climbs over large downed trees on their less used route. No trail maintenance was done yet so I was a bit leery of the Pohono Trail, which last year was a mess before worked on. Day hikers told me Four Mile Trail was open.
I reached Glacier Point at 1:00 where there were quite a few people and a group of bicyclers. Some day-hikers reached Glacier Point from LYV and others from Four Mile Trail. One fellow said the snowbank was still on the trail but I would be OK with trekking poles. Clouds that were slowly building all morning turned ominously black and the wind howled. At 1:30 I decided to simply go back to the Valley and take the shuttle to the Backpackers CG. I should have plenty of time.
My fatigued down-hill muscles and shuttle bus issues resulted in a bit of an ordeal. When I reached the snowbank, several people were waiting in line. When I crossed, the mud covered steps and icy snow were slippery; quite challenging with a full pack. In 2002 I had crossed even more snow at this location but we could easily kick steps. I really was surprised the trail was open. If one were to slip off the trail here one could easily die. I think most day-hikers really were oblivious of the danger or freaked out enough to turn back. Two gals wisely brought micro-spikes; I wished I had. It was freezing at night, so the steps would be very icy in the morning. Perhaps it was a good decision to go down in the afternoon, even if the “storm” did not materialize.
After I reached Union Point, I slowed to a snail’s pace as everyone passed me. Old knees, ouch! Sore muscles, ouch! But the trail has wonderful views and I took plenty of rest breaks. It was hot, but a little snowmelt stream about two thirds down was a wonderful surprise. I reached the Valley road at 5:30 and met tourists who told me that the shuttles only picked up at a few stops, none near the Four Mile Trailhead. As I walked the road a shuttle bus passed, crammed full. I probably would not have gotten a ride anyway. I was now walking to get to camp in time to set up before dark. But it really felt good to walk on the flat and the late day lighting was great. I even found a little trail beside the Merced River that I had never been on. I did not take the shortest route, but it was beautiful. I reached the Backpackers CG about 7PM and this time it was about a third full. With ear plugs in and eye mask on, I fell asleep oblivious to the campground commotion.
7.5 miles, 6.1 hours, 2580 feet elevation gain, 3700 feet loss
I awoke to sore muscles and freezing temperature. Although my water bottle outside the tent did not freeze, the minute I poured it into my cup it iced. I wore nearly everything I brought! My tent sets up on trekking poles; I left the tent up and later wished I had my trekking poles. I started up the trail all bundled up and in an hour shed layers. It was cool in the shade, but hot in the sun. Snow started showing up at the flat at 9,000 feet. A bit later, the trail rounded a bend and all I could see was snow on the trail. I left the trail for the ridge, thinking it would have less snow. I came back on the trail and it was “six of one- half dozen other” as to which route had less snow. I did get to see all the sub-pinnacles south of Clouds Rest. There was snow covering the steps to the summit (here is where I wished for my trekking poles). On the summit at 11:00 I spent half an hour eating lunch and photographing. Lighting was not optimal and there was too much haze in Yosemite Valley. It was nippy up top with a stiff breeze.
The descent was tough on my knees. Back at camp I packed up and dropped to LYV campground, adding to my knee misery. Now both uphill and downhill muscles ached! I found the couple I met, told them I would talk with them later, quickly dropped my pack at a site and headed for the “day-use” area upstream of the Ranger Station, where there is a nice grassy bank to Sunrise Creek where I took a bucket bath. It felt so good! But I forgot to bring my water bottles so had to repeat the trek to the creek for water. I prefer the creek water to the Merced River water.
Once set up I had a great visit with the other couple, two retired college professors and longtime Sierra backpackers. They stayed in LYV two days and did day-hikes. The campground was only about a third full, so not bad at all. A group of younger folks were having a large campfire and gathering nearby, but since I always take a sleep mask and ear plugs, it did not bother me. A young couple nearby were climbing Snake Dike the next day and a young gal was on her first backpack ever. Well, I guess from my perspective everyone is “young”. All in all it was a nice mix of people; very different than the mid-season zoo.
Day 3: 5/1 LYV CG to BPCG (Valley) via Panorama and Four Mile Trails
14.0 miles, 9.7 hours, 2660 feet elevation gain, 4520 feet loss
The intent when I left camp at 9:15 was to camp somewhere by Glacier Point, preferably a stealth camp on Sentinel Creek if I could get to it without slogging through too much snow. I would just see how it turned out. This was to be my “easy rest day”. I had enough food to go out Pohono Trail, so that too was a possibility. At the Illilouette Bridge a couple told me of their continuous climbs over large downed trees on their less used route. No trail maintenance was done yet so I was a bit leery of the Pohono Trail, which last year was a mess before worked on. Day hikers told me Four Mile Trail was open.
I reached Glacier Point at 1:00 where there were quite a few people and a group of bicyclers. Some day-hikers reached Glacier Point from LYV and others from Four Mile Trail. One fellow said the snowbank was still on the trail but I would be OK with trekking poles. Clouds that were slowly building all morning turned ominously black and the wind howled. At 1:30 I decided to simply go back to the Valley and take the shuttle to the Backpackers CG. I should have plenty of time.
My fatigued down-hill muscles and shuttle bus issues resulted in a bit of an ordeal. When I reached the snowbank, several people were waiting in line. When I crossed, the mud covered steps and icy snow were slippery; quite challenging with a full pack. In 2002 I had crossed even more snow at this location but we could easily kick steps. I really was surprised the trail was open. If one were to slip off the trail here one could easily die. I think most day-hikers really were oblivious of the danger or freaked out enough to turn back. Two gals wisely brought micro-spikes; I wished I had. It was freezing at night, so the steps would be very icy in the morning. Perhaps it was a good decision to go down in the afternoon, even if the “storm” did not materialize.
After I reached Union Point, I slowed to a snail’s pace as everyone passed me. Old knees, ouch! Sore muscles, ouch! But the trail has wonderful views and I took plenty of rest breaks. It was hot, but a little snowmelt stream about two thirds down was a wonderful surprise. I reached the Valley road at 5:30 and met tourists who told me that the shuttles only picked up at a few stops, none near the Four Mile Trailhead. As I walked the road a shuttle bus passed, crammed full. I probably would not have gotten a ride anyway. I was now walking to get to camp in time to set up before dark. But it really felt good to walk on the flat and the late day lighting was great. I even found a little trail beside the Merced River that I had never been on. I did not take the shortest route, but it was beautiful. I reached the Backpackers CG about 7PM and this time it was about a third full. With ear plugs in and eye mask on, I fell asleep oblivious to the campground commotion.
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Wed May 04, 2022 7:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite 4/28-5/1
more photos taken on Four Mile Trail
Day 4: Valley Day hike and drive home
Next day I walked to my car at the Trailhead Parking, drove to the day-use lot by Camp 4, and hiked a loop on the north side to the Sentinel Bridge and on the trail next to the river back to Swinging Bridge. The Merced River is very low and the banks quite dry. I checked out the new part of Camp 4 and was unimpressed- very crowded and the bathroom, although new, was a mess. Give me a break! Three stalls for all those campsites? I went over to Yosemite Lodge where the bathrooms were clean. Then I drove down to El Capitan Meadows, walked around it, ate lunch and then left before the Sunday afternoon traffic jam.
This short but rigorous “shake-down” trip revealed several broken zippers, bad choices in gear (rain pants and wading shoes not needed, but left behind micro-spikes), a bit of poor planning (should have had day-3 camping figured out), ill-fitting socks, and sore muscles. Cannot wait for the next trip!
Day 4: Valley Day hike and drive home
Next day I walked to my car at the Trailhead Parking, drove to the day-use lot by Camp 4, and hiked a loop on the north side to the Sentinel Bridge and on the trail next to the river back to Swinging Bridge. The Merced River is very low and the banks quite dry. I checked out the new part of Camp 4 and was unimpressed- very crowded and the bathroom, although new, was a mess. Give me a break! Three stalls for all those campsites? I went over to Yosemite Lodge where the bathrooms were clean. Then I drove down to El Capitan Meadows, walked around it, ate lunch and then left before the Sunday afternoon traffic jam.
This short but rigorous “shake-down” trip revealed several broken zippers, bad choices in gear (rain pants and wading shoes not needed, but left behind micro-spikes), a bit of poor planning (should have had day-3 camping figured out), ill-fitting socks, and sore muscles. Cannot wait for the next trip!
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Wed May 04, 2022 7:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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wildhiker
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Re: TH Yosemite 4/27-5/1
Thanks for the early season report. Sounds like you basically did not have to walk on snow, except high up on Clouds Rest and that one snowbank on the four-mile trail. Is that correct?
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giantbrookie
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Re: TH Yosemite 4/27-5/1
Early season indeed! Nice report and an eye opening first look into the high country. All the photos are wonderful but the Cloud's Rest segment is particularly revealing to those of us itching to get up high because it gives us a close up look of conditions there. I was in Yosemite Valley and Kings Canyon on 4/30 and 4/31 respectively leading a class field trip (geomorphology) and the closest thing I got to a look at the high country was the classic look from Junction View (and further up 180). That view, while nice, did not give the on-ground perspective you've shown as to how early the snow is melting on the west flank.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Gazelle
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Re: TH Yosemite 4/27-5/1
As for trekking pole tent, I just pop out the poles and put a couple well placed rocks on tent so I can have my poles on day hikes..I never hike without my poles! You probably do this so disregard if so.
The woman who follows the crowd will usually go no further than the crowd. The woman who walks alone is likely to find herself in places no one has ever been before. Albert Einstein
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oddtiger
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Re: TH Yosemite 4/27-5/1
Thanks for the report and the photos of the high country! These views are so classic and the best is that there is no crowd in early season. It seems I can leave my crampons at home for next trip. It takes forever to organize backpacking stuff after a ski season, and for next trip I have to do it for the whole family ](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall")
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TH Yosemite 4/27-5/1
According to a ranger, the snow on the 4-Mile Trail is from the last snowstorm. They opened the trail as the old snow had melted enough to expose the trail, then it snowed, covering it all again. I walked on the snow along the ridge of Clouds Rest about 10AM and it was solid enough not to post hole. The snow on the trail was patchy with enough footprints that I did not post hole. The highest areas with northern exposure look to be solid snow. Mt Clark was snowy. I am sure that what I was told about snow on the North Rim was a bit exaggerated because there appeared to be little when I viewed the area from Clouds Rest. There probably are patches of snow on the north facing slopes in deep timber that may cause one to post hole.
What really surprised me was the extreme low level in the streams. The parts of the Valley that are normally flooded were dry. I think Yosemite Creek has peaked, but I think the Merced River is yet to peak. A couple I met said the bridge across upper Illilouette Creek was flooded. I was not aware of another upstream bridge from the main bridge. Yosemite, Vernal, and Nevada Falls were all less than I expected.
Oddtiger, I am looking forward to your Edith Lake trip report. Years ago, my husband and I did an early trip identical to yours except clockwise.
edit- just looked at CDEC data and the probable peak flow of the Merced at Happy Isles is May 7 and about a foot higher than when I was there.
What really surprised me was the extreme low level in the streams. The parts of the Valley that are normally flooded were dry. I think Yosemite Creek has peaked, but I think the Merced River is yet to peak. A couple I met said the bridge across upper Illilouette Creek was flooded. I was not aware of another upstream bridge from the main bridge. Yosemite, Vernal, and Nevada Falls were all less than I expected.
Oddtiger, I am looking forward to your Edith Lake trip report. Years ago, my husband and I did an early trip identical to yours except clockwise.
edit- just looked at CDEC data and the probable peak flow of the Merced at Happy Isles is May 7 and about a foot higher than when I was there.
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windknot
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Re: TH Yosemite 4/27-5/1
Thanks for the report! It's great to see photos of this classic area at this time of year.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite 4/27-5/1
In case not noticed, I posted more photos of snow conditions from the top of Clouds Rest in the "conditions" sub-forum.
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