JMT planning for summer 2022

[tim]

Its been a while since I did any substantial hiking in the Sierra, though I did a bunch of trips up to a week in length with my twins when they were in elementary school (2008-13), and posted a bunch of reports on here. During high school and college the kids were too busy, but now my daughter is graduating from college and has 6 weeks free this summer (late July to Labor Day), so we were thinking of finally getting round to doing the JMT. We've done some parts before - Tuolumne to Cathedral Lake (to Sunrise Lakes), Shadow Lake to Lake Ediza, Duck Pass to Purple Lake (to Iva Bell and out to Reds Meadow), Florence Lake to Evolution Basin and Kearsage Pass to Whitney Portal, so some of it is familiar ground, but also have missed out on Muir Pass to Rae Lakes, so we'd like to know more about what we shouldn't miss on the other sections.

I have got permits for the two of us from Mono/Parker Pass in early August (planning to connect to the JMT north of Island Pass) and exiting at Whitney Portal 18 days later, so it will be just over 10 miles/2000ft of ascent on average per day.

I had the following approximate list of camping spots, but would welcome any alternative suggestions:
Parker Creek
Below Waugh Lake
Above Shadow Creek
Reds Meadow
Duck Pass junction (or Iva Bell as alternate route)
Squaw Lake
Lake Edison junction
Hilgard Fork junction
Muir Trail Ranch
McClure Meadow
Starr Camp
Deer Meadow
South Fork Kings
Sawmill Pass junction
Rae Lakes
Above Center Basin crossing
Tyndall Frog Ponds or Wrights Creek
Guitar Lake

I've seen a lot about fire closures the last few summers, but I'd appreciate thoughts on the likelihood of major fire-related problems in August this year (even ignoring permit constraints it doesn't look like we will have much flexibility to go earlier or later). Am I right in assuming that there won't be any significant Covid-related changes, other than the various changes in how permits are issued in the last few years?

We had planned to just resupply at MTR, half way through (i.e. night of Day 9) - I have a Garcia and a Bearikade Expedition, but it would be good to have input on whether it makes sense to replace the Garcia with a BV500.

We had also thought about camping at Reds Meadow (and eating there) but it doesn't look like you can book in advance - does it fill up on a Saturday night or do they have a specific area for backpackers who arrive late afternoon? If we couldn't get in there then I would think about heading down the Fish Creek trail and camping at Crater Creek and then going to Iva Bell before Silver Pass as an alternative to following the JMT rather than making the climb to Red Cones.

Finally, I'd welcome thoughts on pros and cons of doing the missing section from Tuolumne to Yosemite Valley as a day hike the day before we start (we have a room at Yosemite Lodge that night and will have a driver to shuttle us around) - my main concern is being exhausted from a long day hike and that making it harder the first few days when we are carrying a pack. We have seen the best bits of that area (i.e. Cathedral Lake and beyond) before, on the other hand by not bothering, we might then feel we've not "done" the whole JMT.

[Wandering Daisy]

I think your Bearikade expedition is about the same weight as the BV500. Just use what you have unless the extra bulk is a real problem.

I think the bigger risk is trashing your feet and getting blisters if you day-hike from Tuolumne to the Valley. It is a long distance. About twice the distance as your average daily mileage for the JMT. Why not work that day-hike into the end of your trip? August can be very hot; it may be a bit miserable. If I had a nice room in the valley, I would just hang out in the valley.

[tim]

I’m thinking more about whether the Bearikade plus Garcia is enough for 2 for 9 nights, or if I need something bigger along with the Bearikade.

I definitely agree about the risk of doing ~21 miles, the challenge is that getting into Yosemite at the end is complicated (we won’t have a permit to get us through the gate), and we only have a room in YV the night before we start.

[narc1370]

That would be one hell of a day hike the day before starting a thru hike!

[Gogd]

A day hike help acclimation for an impending backpack trip. Just don't overextend yourself. Perhaps do something in TM and take a shuttle back to the valley afterwards. Make sure you eat well, get a good sleep after the day hike, and stay well hydrated the days leading up to the backpack part of your trip.

I like your choice to do Cascade Valley in lieu of the JMT section passing Red Cones, and Duck, Purple and Virginia Lakes. You might also consider the trail that parallels Cascade Valley along the bench above the south side of the valley as another option for that section.

I also suggest bypassing Forester Pass, and follow the old JMT up Center Basin, then over Junction and Shepard Passes. You will find the solitude along this route a stark contrast to the crowds of the JMT freeway. If you are open to some XC touring, you can extend this detour by taking the XC route into Wright Lakes Basin, eventually joining the JMT further south along Wright Creek.

Ed

[Wandering Daisy]

It would take some research to figure out, but the entire length of the JMT does not require hard sided bear cans. You may be able to use the Bearikade Expedition plus an Ursack, which would be much lighter than the Garcia. It all depends on the bulk of the food you bring. I can get 9-10 days in a Bearikade Weekender for myself, but I have to select food carefully and re-pack almost everything. I think the only way to really figure it out is to actually pack the food and see how many days/meals you can get into the Expedition. If you camp at bear boxes the first few nights that would also help. I think there is a map that shows where all the bear boxes are in the Sierra. I know there is a list of bear boxes with their GPS location.

If you can get over Parker Pass first night, I think an Ursack is acceptable. It may be different now, so you need to find a map that shows where bear cans are required. I think Inyo has one on their website.

[LMBSGV]

You seem to be choosing a lot of the more lowland camping locations. Is that a preference or would you rather camp in locations with more vistas? Choosing the more scenic locations may involve changing your daily mileage, but may yield a more memorable trip. Look at the map and peruse lots of the various trip reports on the various sections to get a better idea of each day’s landscape and what the camping is like. If you decide to get into really rethinking your campsites, there are lots of other great alternatives.

Places you mentioned that I would especially avoid camping and think of alternatives are the following:

Below Waugh Lake: I would go to at least Island Pass and even better would be Thousand Island Lake.

Reds Meadow: I would push to get to the Duck Pass junction. There is a great view of the Silver Divide from there. That means going further than Shadow Creek the day before, but if you make Island Pass or Thousand Island, going to Rosalie or Gladys Lake should be possible and from there than Duck Pass junction is possible.

Lake Edison Junction: I would skip this since it is at the bottom on Mono Creek. This means really rethinking a lot of the trip. If you begin from Silver Pass Lake, than getting over Bear Ridge the next day is possible and you can aim for the Hilgard junction. Also, Marie Lakes are spectacular.

Deer Meadow: I would push on up the Golden Staircase to Palisade Lakes.

South Ford Kings: I would go up to Marjorie Basin. Lake Marjorie and the lakes below it offer spectacular views back to Upper Basin and North Palisade.

Guitar Lake: There are lots of posts talking about alternative places to camp besides this overused location.

From your experience level, I don't advise bypassing Forester Pass and going over Junction Pass. To come to your own conclusion, see the posts on Junction Pass here:

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19167

Above all, I would be willing to rethink each day as it happens. Don’t get stuck on trying to necessarily reach a certain goal each day. Revel in the experience itself.

[tim]

Places you mentioned that I would especially avoid camping and think of alternatives are the following:

Below Waugh Lake: I would go to at least Island Pass and even better would be Thousand Island Lake.

Reds Meadow: I would push to get to the Duck Pass junction. There is a great view of the Silver Divide from there. That means going further than Shadow Creek the day before, but if you make Island Pass or Thousand Island, going to Rosalie or Gladys Lake should be possible and from there than Duck Pass junction is possible.

Lake Edison Junction: I would skip this since it is at the bottom on Mono Creek. This means really rethinking a lot of the trip. If you begin from Silver Pass Lake, than getting over Bear Ridge the next day is possible and you can aim for the Hilgard junction. Also, Marie Lakes are spectacular.

Deer Meadow: I would push on up the Golden Staircase to Palisade Lakes.

South Ford Kings: I would go up to Marjorie Basin. Lake Marjorie and the lakes below it offer spectacular views back to Upper Basin and North Palisade.

Guitar Lake: There are lots of posts talking about alternative places to camp besides this overused location.

From your experience level, I don't advise bypassing Forester Pass and going over Junction Pass. To come to your own conclusion, see the posts on Junction Pass here:

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=19167

Above all, I would be willing to rethink each day as it happens. Don’t get stuck on trying to necessarily reach a certain goal each day. Revel in the experience itself.

These locations were mostly just the result of trying to even out mileage and ascent. In particular, at the start I’m doubtful we will be able to get over Koip Peak Pass the first day, which makes getting to Island Pass implausible. I would certainly like to stay at Thousand Island or Garnet but that would probably mean adding another day and stopping near Gem Pass for a short day 2?

Thanks for the suggestion of trying to get over Silver Pass rather than stopping at Squaw Lake. Stopping at Edison Lake does make for a short day. On the other hand if we decide to visit and stay at Iva Bell instead it is a long way from there to get over Silver Pass. We’ve done part of the Minnow Creek trail before and really liked it.

South of MTR it seems like it would be tough to climb all the way to Evolution Lake in one day with heavy packs, so the next day it’s hard to go too far beyond Muir Pass. I had thought about Palisade Lakes but that seems like a lot of climbing at the end of a long day.

[Gogd]

@tim
Do you have any rest days built into the plan? Kinda nice to have some zero days on an extended trip; otherwise it can feel like a forced march.
Ed

[Wandering Daisy]

Sometimes it just takes half a day change (either push one day into half the next, or stop early one day, half-way) to put you on a 10-mile schedule that would result in more scenic campsites.

I think your 10-mile days are quite conservative given the good condition of the JMT. I bet by the time you do your resupply you will be stronger, well acclimated and able to do more. My daily goal is based on hours each day, not just miles, using the "rule of thumb" estimate of 2.5 mph on the flat + 1 hour per 1000-1500 feet elevation gain. That "formula" takes into account rest stops of about 10 minutes each hour. I aim for 6 hours a day, because I like to fish at the end of the day. If not fishing, an 8-hour day is quite feasible with an occasional 10-12 hour day if needed.