2006 Trip Report: Upper Basin Loop with Split Mountain

[Wandering Daisy]

Upper Basin and Split Mountain, August 21-25, 2006

Taboose Pass seems to be of interest lately. I did this trip before joining HST and have mentioned it in a few posts, but never did a trip report. The goal was simply to climb Split Mountain in my endeavor of climbing the 14’ers. The route was 42 miles in 4 days with 13,546 elevation gain, 39 % off-trail. 2006 was a high snow year (175%).

I drove to Bishop, stopping briefly to get some supplies and headed to Taboose Creek campground, where I decided to drive up to the trailhead. The road was rough but my Toyota Corella wagon made it and I set up about 4:30. A retired math teacher from Pennsylvania who used a shuttle service to start his trip had just come out and we visited while I enjoyed a cold beer. I offered a beer, but he declined because he had a long drive ahead of him. At 5:30 another fellow drove in and headed out with a huge pack, loaded with solar chargers and lots of electronic gadgets. I had thought about the same strategy of doing the lower part in the shade of evening. I instead had another cold beer. Soon I was alone, reading in my tent, hoping I had not made a grave logistical error.

Day 1: Brutal Day; 10.3 hours, 11.6 miles and over 7,000 feet gain

Getting started is always a battle as I never can decide on what to pack, misplace glasses, car keys and other essentials. Life is a lot simpler once I get into the wilderness! Up at 5:00 AM, I was not on the trail until 6:30, with only one hour of shade before the sun hit me, whereupon I shed down to my shorts and tank top and kept going. I was surprised at the depth and swiftness of the first creek crossing which required wading, but it was refreshing. A few pesky mosquitoes put a damper on the fun.

By 9:00 I was at the first feasible campsite, flat albeit without water, where I had caught up to the fellow who had gone in the previous evening and was now hanging everything out to dry. Darkness befell him and he dunked into the creek near midnight! Although I felt sorry for him I wondered how he was going to make it over any creek with his humongous pack. I continued to the second crossing and one more time waded barefoot in the cool refreshing water. I filled up my water bottle, soaked my shirt and hat for “air conditioning” and headed up the hot, dry, relentless trail mighty happy with my little 25-pound pack.

It was beastly hot and I was glad to reach the next brushy bench where I ate lunch dangling feet in the stream. Reluctant to leave, I headed onward. One patch of snow had been a bit tricky otherwise the trail was as I had remembered from a 2004 trip – more of a talus route than trail. After 7.2 miles and 5,900 feet elevation gain, I reached the pass at 1:00 PM happy to be in the cool mountain air.

After a half a mile drop down the trail for lunch, a decision had to be made. I really wanted to camp near Cardinal Lake. Should I continue on the trail or traverse cross country? I had done the cross country route before but forgot that I would be forced down, with similar elevation loss as the easier trail route. This was not a smart move. The trending terrain again eventually forced me into the valley by the time I reached Cardinal Creek. Still wanting to see Cardinal Lake I headed up the lost 1,000 feet, every step slower as my water supply dwindled. No matter how tired, I could not stop until I reached water.

I drank heartily at the small ponds I reached short of the lake. Stubborn, I still headed up towards the lake until I realized that it sat in a talus bowl with unlikely camping. Reluctantly I backtracked to the grassy bench that I had passed. Unfortunately, I did not even take a photo of Cardinal Lake. I bathed and spread out my bivy. The stars shone, the stream gurgled and I watched the Milky Way move across the sky watching the silhouette of my food bag hung in a nearby tree.

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Day 2: Split Mountain; 8.4 hours, 9.2 miles, 3,400 feet gain

I packed up and traversed to the two unnamed lakes at 3,500. This time I walked with the “grain” of the terrain connecting gently sloping benches staying about 3,500 meters. So much easier! I crossed between the two lakes and followed low ridges to reach the south shore of Lake 3,535 staying on a bench above the lake to the inlet.

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I stashed my pack in a talus field above the inlet and headed up Split Mountain. The sky was partly cloudy and the wind was intense once I reached the north ridge. The route is primarily moderate to steep talus with a few exposed sections. I stayed right on the edge overlooking Owens Valley however there is no definitive path on the broad north face. Some spots were loose and steep requiring careful foot placement. With the elevation, the route is tedious, but not technical. On the summit at 11:30, the register was easy to find and I added my signature.

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After about 20 minutes on the top I descended on a distinct use trail that stayed west of the ridge but became faint to nonexistent the farther I descended. I felt staying on the west side was harder than the route I took up, but many paths can be found and some tedious talus hopping cannot be avoided. I was back at my pack by mid afternoon. My goal was accomplished and I still had two and a half days to explore!

I put on my pack and returned to the two lakes at 3,500 meters and traversed westward toward the Pacific Crest Trail. Crossing the natural trend of the terrain, I had to drop into and climb out of a few small canyons. On the southwest side of the trail, across the river, there are several ponds and creeks with an abundant choice of camping sites. I headed to the very small pond at about 3,350 under the impressive northeast face of Vennacher Needle. Water in the little pond was quite warm for bathing but there were too many bugs. A few hundred yards to the west I found a nice flat meadow. I strolled around, finding more streams and lakes. After dinner it was suddenly chilly so I called it a day; a very good day! Stars again were outstanding and frost settled on my bivy.

Day 3: Cirque Hopping: 7.3 hours, 9.4 miles and 2,000 feet elevation gain.

I got up at dawn, cooked breakfast and packed up quickly to get a full day of exploration of three small cirques in the Mt. Ruskin area. I headed south, soon intersecting the PCT. At about 3,250 meters elevation, I left the trail and angled up through a clearing to the small lake between Peak 3412 and the impressive Peak 3,722 following game trails on steep dirt slopes. The lake is the lowest in the basin southeast of Vennacher Needle. I hauled my full pack to have route flexibility but by now it weighed less than 20 pounds, so was able to travel quickly.

I took some photos at the outlet and spotted a path over the east shoulder and then dropped slightly to avoid talus. I walked the beautiful low angle granite slabs to another small lake in the next basin south of Peak 3,722 on the ridge between Mt Ruskin and Vennacher Needle. Brilliant magenta flowers grew among the white granite slabs. At the lake, there were small campsites and was tempted to camp, but it was still early in the day.

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I then descended the opposite side of the creek to an elevation of about 3,500 meters along the outlet creek through small pocket meadows and flowers that lined the creek, before scrambling up and over the east shoulder of Mt. Ruskin, ending up in the southern cirque south of Mt. Ruskin. This lake was more barren but still impressive.

From here I stayed high on the ridge that drops precipitously to the South Fork of the Kings River. Looking over the edge at one point, a deep blue little lake was sitting on the edge. I headed back to the PCT on game trails, rock slabs and into an open forest near the confluence of all three creeks from the upper cirques. The narrow drainage led down to the PCT; at times the route was quite tight and brushy.

Once on the PCT I quickly dropped to the crossing of the Middle Fork, where I met several other backpackers. After two days alone, it was nice conversing with others. Two fellows were near the end of a 10-day trip and had packed very light and enjoying themselves. I decided to camp at Bench Lake so again headed up the many switchbacks to the Bench Lake trail junction. After about two more miles of relatively flat walking on the well defined trail I reached Bench Lake which was as beautiful as I had heard. I arrived late afternoon and found a great campsite on top of hill on the northwest shore. The lake was in the shadows as I collected water and dropped in a chlorine tablet. The site had a handy tree to hang my food although I doubt it would prevent a persistent bear from getting the meager food that remained after I cooked a hearty dinner. I was surprised to be the only one at the lake considering its location so close to the PCT.

[Wandering Daisy]

more photos from day 3:

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Day 4: Long Walk Out: 7.5 hours, 11.5 miles, 1,000 feet gain and 6,000 feet drop in elevation

I was up early and the morning light showed off the impressive northwest face of Peak 3681 directly southeast of my campsite. The still air was perfect for the classic photo of Arrow Peak reflected in Bench Lake.

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Reaching the PCT, I hiked towards Pinchot Pass a bit to get better views. At a heavily used pond on the PCT campers were sleepily arising. I headed cross-country and intersected the Taboose Pass Trail, where a CCC crew was restoring the meadow. They greeted me as always, friendly and polite. Soon I was again eating lunch on Taboose Pass. I descended taking a break at the creek at about 3,200 meters to check if there were any camping spots on the rocky knoll to the south, while two climbers quickly passed by going up.

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I steadily descended stopping often to rest my knees and drink water. There is enough water on the trail that I carried little until the last crossing. It was late in the day and hotter than hell! The last three miles on the sandy flat was agonizing! In hindsight I wished I had not walked out the entire way. I took a refreshing bath in the creek and cooled my warm beer. By sunset, I lounged in my little chair, my beer was cold and I watched a fabulous sunset. I was alone again.

[bobby49]

After reading your trip report, it reminded me that we each have to have something to believe in. I believe I'll have another beer.

[LMBSGV]

This was a great read and wonderful photos. I really enjoyed following along your route. I am amazed you have the mileage and hours so precise since I can never keep track very well even at the time I’m on the trip, let alone remember it that accurately. I think I was camped at the two lakes at 3,500 in 2014 and day-hiked to the lake at 3,650 and gazed up at Split Mountain wondering about the view from the top. Your photos are a wonderful vicarious means to experience that view.

When camped in Upper Basin, I wondered about those pond/lakes below Vennacher Needle and what it would be like to camp there so thanks for helping to satisfy my curiosity. In 2001 (it was on 9/11) I hiked out from Bench Lake to the Taboose Trailhead and also found the descent to be quite brutal on my knees and tiresome, especially those last miles on the sand to the trailhead. Thanks for sharing this lovely blast from the past.

[Wandering Daisy]

Oops! I forgot to put in the map.

I do a lot of detailed planning before each trip and already have mileages figured out for small sections. That way I can have a good estimate of how much time it will take to continue to another campsite. I take lots of photos and the time taken is recorded. This helps me know how long it takes me to get each place. I am pretty obsessive with map reading and marking where I am at each rest stop.

In retrospect I should have spent more time and visited the upper lakes of the northern cirque under Vannacher Needles.

I enjoyed Split Mountain. It is a relatively easy climb with wonderful views. I have always liked Taboose Pass in spite of the elevation gain. It has plenty of small campsites on way up and I have always had plenty of water sources. The cliffs on each side are quite stunning too.

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[Harlen]

Great Trip and Report Daisy. We really like the photos, favorites being: "Two lakes at 3500...;" "View towards Taboose Pass;" and "Tree by camp."
The beautiful flowers shots are of "rockfringe," aka "alpine fireweed," or Epilobium obcordatum. https://www.calflora.org/app/taxon?crn=3008
You managed to get a close-up of that cool pinnacle beneath Ruskin-- the one seen in your photo "View back at ridge between V. Needle and Ruskin."
I tried, but somehow missed it ambling cross country down from our camp below Vennacher Needle. I wanted to get a picture of it in the early morning. I had seen it from afar:

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This is the view I had of the pinnacle that made me want to get up under it.


Congratulations on a fine trip, Ian and Lizzie.

[SSSdave]

Much enjoyed your trip report and photos, thanks. Hazy day atop Split. Your "Beautiful flowers with Pt 3722 in the background" flowers are Davidson's penstemon. On your "view back at ridge between Vannacher Needle and Ruskin" photo, did you check out the pond below that rusty zone? On your "near Marjory Lake" photo, my third day's camp would be atop the moraine frame edge mid right that likely has lupine areas.

In 2019 went over Shepherd but now have some doubts will ever go over Taboose, given my 65# carrying weight and age. Like my 2019 Shepherd Pass trip, given the vertical rise, would cheat by moving up the trail late after for a first night then spend another night east of the pass that has looks to have plenty of rugged colorful metamorphic geology landscape to work. A decade ago had days in Upper Basin but have exchanged that for days in Arrow Peak basin working the unique aquamarine water stream.

This is a crop from a full 21.5x23 inch enhanced topo I created in 2020 for a proposed 10 day trip over Taboose. The green pyramids are prospective camp spots. First day would late afternoon hike just up 1680 ft to 7070 feet. Second day to 10,100 and third morning over the pass to Kong Moraine along the Pinchot Fork. Day 4 over Pinchot for just a day. My photography trips are highly detailed in order to be at photo locations (tiny arrows) at times of day with best light that roll out like clock-work.

(mouse select to enlarge)

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[Gogd]

Daisy, another excellent TR! I break out my maps, and follow along, guided by your vivid prose and images. Really does bring back the memories.

Comments from the peanut gallery:
I think Ian correctly identified the flowers as Rock Fringe. Several details lead me to this conclusion.

• Rock Fringe pedals are unfused (separate from each other), whereas Davidson's penstemon are fused pairings.
• The Rock Fringe pedals all share a heart shaped silhouette, however, the Davidson's penstemon has distinctly different upper and lower pedal shapes.
• The stamen of Rock Fringe terminates in a distinct club shape anther, while the stamen of Davidson's penstemon are covered in filament-like anthers.

But don't confuse me for a botanist - as a young boy I gave mommy a flower bouquet that included budding poison oak cuttings, because I thought it made a good greenery component in the arrangement.

Ed

[Harlen]

Dave wrote:

Your "Beautiful flowers with Pt 3722 in the background" flowers are Davidson's penstemon.

There's a superficial resemblance Dave, but P. davidsonii has a two-lipped, cylindrical corolla tube, and is purple rather than pink. https://www.calflora.org/app/taxon?crn=6154
Wandering Daisy's beautiful flowers have four deeply lobed petals, and the color is pink. https://www.calflora.org/app/taxon?crn=3008 They make a beautiful picture regardless of taxonomy.

[SSSdave]

Agreed those are rockfringe not P. davidsonii. Good work. When I saw WD's photo, I based that id solely on flower color and did not bother to look at the flower shapes because I felt during the moment it was obvious. The subtle color difference is something I normally notice immediately. But looking at WD's image a second time, noticed is wasn't the lavender hue my mind was so certain about. Interesting mental mistake shows my color sense is not as reliable as I thought. All flowers both vary somewhat in saturation and generally fade the longer they are exposed to sunshine. These are below the east side of Mono Pass (Rock Creek).


Both species are common about crest level volcanic geology with the below just opening at Carson Pass very saturated.


https://www.davidsenesac.com/2015_Trip_ ... 15-11.html