Advice: Which backpacking trip to do?

[mxoyez]

Regarding areas to explore in a McGee / Hopkins trip, I'd recommend a lollipop loop that goes McGee trailhead --> Hopkins Pass --> drop down to Mono Creek --> brief hike westbound on the Mono Creek trail --> pick up the Sierra High Route by climbing back up to Laurel Lake --> Shout of Relief and Bighorn Passes --> Tully Lake --> rejoin the McGee Pass Trail. The drop down to and subsequent climb out of the Mono Creek area is steep and kind of forested and boring, but the rest of the trip is spectacular, particularly the stretch from Laurel Lake to Tully Lake.

That sounds incredible. I've never really done class 2 before (only done old army pass on Langley if that counts?), so would you recommend practicing some class 2 on dayhikes, or does it come pretty naturally?

I'd say it depends more on your mental stamina than your physical ability. The off trail section from Laurel Lake to Tully Hole is technically quite easy...you would have to try very hard to find sufficient exposure to put yourself in any danger. But there is a decent talus / boulder field to traverse between Shout of Relief and Bighorn, which can be mentally exhausting if you're not used to it. Your pace will slow to a crawl, and it can be frustrating to feel like the next pass is not getting any closer even though you're expending 10x more energy than you would on trail. Tackling that stretch at the start of the day will help, and Laurel Lake is a spectacular campsite, which you'll likely have all to yourself.

Sounds good, thanks! Just one more question: How many nights would you recommend?

[Wandering Daisy]

Six days, five nights at least, since it is your first off-trail experience. You may get a bit lost a few times. I made it to Laurel Lake on day 2 last summer, but it was brutal. Three days much better! Plan on at least 2 days out from Tully Lake. There are many wonderful little side trips and day hikes you can do so you would be totally entertained if you stretched it out to 8-9 days also. Do you fish? If you do, the fishing is good. Golden Lake and Steelhead Lake, on the way in or out, also have fish. Laurel fish very small. Big and Little McGee good fishing.

There are no easy water sources when going up to Laurel Lake until you get to the first meadow. And it is REALLY steep, hot and dry and you will get baked in the afternoon. Gather plenty of water before you start up. The trail is a bit hard to impossible to find in places above the first big meadow. Then it becomes better as you near Laurel Lake.

Navigation and micro-route finding are important and as a beginner at this, you need to take your time and may have to do a few backtracks. This is how we all learned how to do off-trail passes. You can get into big trouble if you miss the trail up Hopkins Pass. It also has a very steep upper part. I have never been over McGee Pass, but they take horses over it so it likely is OK. I missed the trail junction when I dropped from Tully Lake, so you may have to stop and find it.

[mxoyez]

Six days, five nights at least, since it is your first off-trail experience. You may get a bit lost a few times. I made it to Laurel Lake on day 2 last summer, but it was brutal. Three days much better! Plan on at least 2 days out from Tully Lake. There are many wonderful little side trips and day hikes you can do so you would be totally entertained if you stretched it out to 8-9 days also. Do you fish? If you do, the fishing is good. Golden Lake and Steelhead Lake, on the way in or out, also have fish. Laurel fish very small. Big and Little McGee good fishing.

There are no easy water sources when going up to Laurel Lake until you get to the first meadow. And it is REALLY steep, hot and dry and you will get baked in the afternoon. Gather plenty of water before you start up. The trail is a bit hard to impossible to find in places above the first big meadow. Then it becomes better as you near Laurel Lake.

Navigation and micro-route finding are important and as a beginner at this, you need to take your time and may have to do a few backtracks. This is how we all learned how to do off-trail passes. You can get into big trouble if you miss the trail up Hopkins Pass. It also has a very steep upper part. I have never been over McGee Pass, but they take horses over it so it likely is OK. I missed the trail junction when I dropped from Tully Lake, so you may have to stop and find it.

Alright, 6 days sounds like a good amount of time! Unfortunately, I don't fish, but it does seem super fun. Maybe I'll start this summer? I think I'll camp at Big Mcgee Lake -> Lower Hopkins Lake or Mono Creek-> Laurel Lake -> Meadows below Tully Lake -> Big Mcgee Lake, with a red slate mountain summit in the 2nd last day. Thanks so much for the advice! I'm used to always rushing on backpacking trips, so this should be nice

[kpeter]

If you are going over McGee Pass to the Tully Lake area and the meadows in that vicinity (which are quite nice), I would also recommend spending some time on the Cotton Lake plateau. This is my report from a couple of years ago about that area.
https://www.highsierratopix.com/communi ... on#p158661

Many people on this forum are quite experienced cross country hikers. I dabble only a little in cross country--getting a mile or so off trail to a lake or destination. You'll see from my trail report that going cross-x to Tully Lake and then to Cotton Lake was pretty easy but not without a couple of challenges for a veteran trail hiker. I'd recommend warming up to things like cross country passes very gradually.

[mxoyez]

If you are going over McGee Pass to the Tully Lake area and the meadows in that vicinity (which are quite nice), I would also recommend spending some time on the Cotton Lake plateau. This is my report from a couple of years ago about that area.
https://www.highsierratopix.com/communi ... on#p158661

Many people on this forum are quite experienced cross country hikers. I dabble only a little in cross country--getting a mile or so off trail to a lake or destination. You'll see from my trail report that going cross-x to Tully Lake and then to Cotton Lake was pretty easy but not without a couple of challenges for a veteran trail hiker. I'd recommend warming up to things like cross country passes very gradually.

Will do! Your photos look awesome Did you see any nice camping spots on cotton lake?

[wildhiker]

I camped at Cotton Lake in 1998, on benches above the lake on the north side. Don't recall any problems with finding a good tent spot. And the view was spectacular.
-Phil

98-20f09-CottonLake.jpg

[Lumbergh21]

My only experience with the areas that you are proposing is the "Pine Creek Pass --> Italy Pass" area. I'll keep to your request to avoid anything death defying while off-trail (my general sentiments as well) and approximately 12 miles per day, never more. There will be time spent swimming against the south bound tide on the JMT in order to make it a loop with no difficult passes.
Day 1: Assuming that you are starting from the Pine Creek trailhead in the morning and have at least most of a day, I'd hike up to Pine Creek Pass and take the short 1.5 mile off-trail hike over to French Lake for the night. Day 2: Head back to the trail by descending from French Lake and angling back to the trail. Lunch break at Hutchinson Meadow and camp at or near the junction with the JMT.
Day 3: Head north on the JMT, stopping around Sally Keyes Lake for lunch and then over the pass to Marie Lake on the other side. Head off trail at the lake inlet to the east side of the lake to camp to avoid teh crowds on the trail side of the lake.
Day 4 (a short mileage day): Head off trail northeast over a gentle ridge and descend the drainage that runs to the northeast on the other side curving to the east as you descend to pick up the trail to Sandpiper Lake. Either make camp at Sandpiper and day hike to the lakes above or head up to Three Isalnd Lake with your full pack and make camp up there. It is off trail above Sandpiper, but easy.
Day 5: Take the trail back down to the JMT and head north a couple of miles to Hilgard Branch and take the trail to Lake Italy just north of the stream crossing. You can camp at Lake Italy, but I recommend Teddy Bear Lake. It's easy off-trail travel.
Day 6 (another sub 8 mile day): Head up to Lake Italy then sort of follow the outlet stream coming out of Jumble Lake, keeping above and to the north to avoid the boulder field around the lake itself. You will then have a nice use trail up and over Italy Pass. Once you are back on the east side of Italy Pass You can either head down through Granite Park, camping somewhere along the way or head northeast to Chalfant Lakes or southwest to Royce Lakes to camp.
Day 7: Head back to the trail running through Granite Park and down to Honeymoon Lake and then back down to the trailhead.

[mxoyez]

I camped at Cotton Lake in 1998, on benches above the lake on the north side. Don't recall any problems with finding a good tent spot. And the view was spectacular.
-Phil

98-20f09-CottonLake.jpg

That's a great view! I'll try camping on that bench!

[mxoyez]

My only experience with the areas that you are proposing is the "Pine Creek Pass --> Italy Pass" area. I'll keep to your request to avoid anything death defying while off-trail (my general sentiments as well) and approximately 12 miles per day, never more. There will be time spent swimming against the south bound tide on the JMT in order to make it a loop with no difficult passes.
Day 1: Assuming that you are starting from the Pine Creek trailhead in the morning and have at least most of a day, I'd hike up to Pine Creek Pass and take the short 1.5 mile off-trail hike over to French Lake for the night. Day 2: Head back to the trail by descending from French Lake and angling back to the trail. Lunch break at Hutchinson Meadow and camp at or near the junction with the JMT.
Day 3: Head north on the JMT, stopping around Sally Keyes Lake for lunch and then over the pass to Marie Lake on the other side. Head off trail at the lake inlet to the east side of the lake to camp to avoid teh crowds on the trail side of the lake.
Day 4 (a short mileage day): Head off trail northeast over a gentle ridge and descend the drainage that runs to the northeast on the other side curving to the east as you descend to pick up the trail to Sandpiper Lake. Either make camp at Sandpiper and day hike to the lakes above or head up to Three Isalnd Lake with your full pack and make camp up there. It is off trail above Sandpiper, but easy.
Day 5: Take the trail back down to the JMT and head north a couple of miles to Hilgard Branch and take the trail to Lake Italy just north of the stream crossing. You can camp at Lake Italy, but I recommend Teddy Bear Lake. It's easy off-trail travel.
Day 6 (another sub 8 mile day): Head up to Lake Italy then sort of follow the outlet stream coming out of Jumble Lake, keeping above and to the north to avoid the boulder field around the lake itself. You will then have a nice use trail up and over Italy Pass. Once you are back on the east side of Italy Pass You can either head down through Granite Park, camping somewhere along the way or head northeast to Chalfant Lakes or southwest to Royce Lakes to camp.
Day 7: Head back to the trail running through Granite Park and down to Honeymoon Lake and then back down to the trailhead.

That sounds really nice! I didn't know about sandpiper and 3 is lake. My only concern is how crowded the JMT will be. Do you think itd be worth it to go over some off trail passes to avoid It?

[Wandering Daisy]

There is no easy x-c route to avoid the JMT. Roper's High Route is an option; Merrium Lake trail then off-trail to Bear Basin and then over Dancing Bear Pass to Italy Pass. I am not sure you are ready for that at this time. The JMT can get crowded, but the trail is a quick, easy and you can get off the trail to camp. JMT traffic depends on the dates of your trip. Less traffic early season or after Labor Day.

We are not going to plan your trip for you, and you need to spend some time seriously looking at maps and develop a trip schedule. There are a lot of trip reports here. It would be informative as well as fun to just look up the previous trip reports for the areas you are interested in. Play with the "search" feature (it took me some time to figure it out). Not to be disrespectful, but I feel we have given you enough to chew on for now.