TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

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arkheel
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TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

This trip included portions of trips 20, 21, 22, 24 and 26 from “Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains” and relied heavily on Wandering Daisy’s 2016 Wind River Reservation Loop trip report.

Day 1 – August 16, 2021

With Wind River Indian Reservation Permits tucked away safely in our packs, my spouse (trail name “Compass”), our neighbor (trail name “Neighbor”) and I began our hike from the St. Lawrence Basin Trailhead at about 9 a.m. We hiked up the 4WD road, and along the way we passed six other hikers exiting the trail. Today was Compass’ and my anniversary, and at our first stop for snacks and water, Neighbor surprised us with sweet anniversary gifts, a cinnamon roll for Compass and an apple for me. He’s a wonderful neighbor.

The day was warm, and our packs were heavy with 10 days of food. We passed the Meadows and started up Entigo Pass. The sun beat down on us, and we all did a little suffering. The trail over Entigo Pass was eroded and full of loose rock. We made it over the pass and descended to Entigo Horse Camp then turned right at the Wilson-Heebeecheeche trail junction.

At one of the Wilson Creek crossings, we were passed by a horse packer with three friendly dogs and two clients. We passed a man and a teenager at another stream crossing. We took a right turn before reaching Enos Lake and started to make our way to Lake 10,331. Because the day was very warm and we had climbed about 3,000 feet, when we arrived at our campsite at 6 p.m., we were tired and hungry. We set up tents and cooked dinner. As we were getting into our tents, a couple of elk ran by. Later that evening we heard elk bugling.

We slept restlessly that night hoping that the weather would hold tomorrow so that we could climb up and over Windy Ridge. The forecast was for good weather tomorrow and deteriorating after that. The wind picked up during the night.

Day 1_Photo 1_Campsite near Lake 10,331.jpg
Our campsite near Lake 10,331

Day 2 – August 17, 2021

We woke the next morning sitting on the fence about crossing Windy Ridge. The weather seemed to be improving. Two more elk ran by while we were packing up, and we heard lots of elk calls. The wind had died down, so we made the decision to cross Wind Ridge and try to reach the South Fork of Bull Lake Creek.

We literally went in the same direction as the two elk that had just passed by. They seemed to know the way. It took us about two hours to get up to 11,500 feet elevation. Then it took us several more hours to cross Windy Ridge. The day was very smoky, so our views from the ridge were obscured somewhat. We saw Tigee Lake and Hatchet Lake through the smoke. We passed the remnants of a cornice. An eagle soared overhead.

We found the well-used trail from Windy Gap down to a bench at about 11,300 feet just in time, as the wind had picked up and a thunderstorm was brewing. We started to look for the gully that would take us to the South Fork of Bull Lake Creek. We found a gully, but it became clear that it wasn’t really the gully that we wanted. By that time, we were already committed. We descended on very steep, slippery scree and loose rocks. Two of us fell. We went down and down, slipping and sliding. The only good thing about the route was the presence of delicious ripe raspberries.
We did finally make it down to the South Fork of Bull Lake Creek. When we came skittering out of the gully, we surprised a fisherman who wondered where the heck we came from.

While we were setting up our tents, the fisherman came over to talk. He set his stringer of trout down on the ground next to Neighbor’s tent and proceeded to tell us a story about his grandfather and to ask if any of us had heard of The Book of Mormon. We said that we had heard of the book. Neighbor thanked him for sharing. That seemed to satisfy the fisherman, so he picked up his trout and went to his camp. That was an odd encounter. None of us had expected to be proselytized to in the backcountry, and we hoped that any nearby bears wouldn’t be attracted to the scent of fresh trout near Neighbor’s tent.

We found a spot to cook dinner that gave us a decent view to the south and up the South Fork of Bull Lake Creek. The earlier storm had passed, and it was a beautiful evening. While we were gazing up the valley, a very large black bear ran across the meadow to our south. I said, “bear”, and Compass grabbed her bear spray. Then, I said, “black bear”, and everyone relaxed a bit. The bear ran into the woods and then came back out into the edge of the meadow, where it stood up on its hind legs. Then it turned and went into the forest. A few minutes later, several elk crossed the meadow. Wow! We already loved the South Fork of Bull Lake Creek.

During the night, we heard it raining.

Day 2_Photo 1_Smoky View of Tigee Lake from Windy Ridge.jpg
Smoky View of Tigee Lake from Windy Ridge

Day 2_Photo 3_View from our Campsite at South Fork Bull Lake Creek.jpg
Our Campsite at South Fork of Bull Lake Creek
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

Day 3 – August 18, 2021

We woke to overcast skies and light, cool rain. We started our hike up South Fork of Bull Lake Creek, and since we all hike in trail runners, our feet were soon wetted by the damp grass. I thought longingly of the Gore-Tex socks in a drawer back in North Carolina. I had convinced Compass that we should leave them behind since they weighed almost three ounces.

Our goal for today was to reach Headwater Lake #2. We found pretty good use trails and followed them as the route took us back and forth over the creek. At one point, Compass whispered for us to come back to where she was. She pointed up into the woods to a very large bull elk. It was huge with very large antlers. We watched it for a few seconds before it realized that we were there. Then it ran away from us up a very steep hill and was gone.

As we came to the use trail junction that would take us to the Headwater Lakes, we came across a fresh, enormous blue bear scat. Based on the sheer size and volume of the scat, we figured that it must have come from a grizzly bear. We had already been talking loudly as we hiked, so we continued with this strategy after seeing the large pile of scat.

We took the use trail towards the Headwater Lakes. Sometimes it was easy to follow and sometimes it seemed to disappear. Sometimes there were cairns, sometimes not. The rain increased in intensity. We hiked along in the rain. We set up our tents near Headwater Lake #2 just as the rained slacked off a bit. A helicopter flew over, heading south/southwest. We wondered if someone had been seriously injured. After dinner, the rain picked up again. We went to bed, and the rain was still pouring down.

Day 3_Photo 1_South Fork Bull Lake Creek on a Rainy Morning.jpg
South Fork of Bull Lake Creek on a Rainy Morning

Day 3_Photo 2_Big Bear Scat along SFBLC.jpg
Big Bear Scat along SFBLC

Day 3_Photo 3_Small Pond on the Way to Headwater Lakes.jpg
Small Pond on the Way to Headwater Lakes


Day 4 – August 19, 2021

Our plan for today was to have been a day hike to Europe Pass. Since the clouds were low and the rain was still coming and going, we decided that the best option was to pack up and head back to the junction with South Fork of Bull Lake Creek. This would set us up for going over Photo Pass the next day.

We hiked back to the trail junction in a steady, cold rain. Along the way, we passed a large pile of porcupine quills. We wondered, what had happened here? When we got back to the creek crossing, the water was noticeably higher than it had been the day before. At this point we were all cold and damp. We crossed the creek and immediately looked for a campsite. We found two sites up on a small hill. After quickly setting up our tents, we climbed inside to warm up.

The rain did finally let up. Then at around 4:40 p.m., it started to hail and rain some more. At about 5:30, we started to cook dinner. That’s when the sleet began. The sleet fell for about 10 minutes, and the cliffs and crevices in the surrounding mountains were colored white.
We all went to bed a little before 8 p.m., and the sleet continued to fall on and off all night long. It was very moist inside our tents.

Day 4_Photo 1_Headwater Lake #2.jpg
Headwater Lake #2
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Last edited by arkheel on Sun Nov 28, 2021 2:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

Day 5 – August 20, 2021

The day started out cold and damp. After breakfast, we began to make our way towards Photo Pass. We hiked until we came to a long, thin lake near the pass. Photo Pass was covered in sleet and shrouded in fog. The sun came out for a little while, and we were like lizards, sitting on some rocks and soaking up the warm sunlight. We were waiting for the pass to clear. While we sat there, a large group of hikers passed us and headed up Photo Pass. We watched them climb.

A little later, we started up Photo Pass and were overjoyed to find a good use trail up and over the pass. After descending the pass, we walked through the wind and fog along the west shore of Bewmark Lake. We got to the bench just south of Bewmark Lake and set up our tents. The day continued to get warmer and sunnier. We dried our shoes and wet socks in the sun. As the clouds continued to burn off, we were treated to amazing views of Middle Fork and Lee lakes and Dragonhead, Pronghorn and Nylon peaks. We took many photos. Sunset brought 360-degree alpenglow views. The weather seemed to be turning for the better.

Day 5_Photo 1_North Side of Photo Pass.jpg
North Side of Photo Pass

Day 5_Photo 2_Climbing the North Side of Photo Pass.jpg
Climbing the North Side of Photo Pass

Day 5_Photo 3_Hiking Towards Bewmark Lake.jpg
Hiking Towards Bewmark Lake

Day 5_Photo 4_Middle Fork and Lee Lake.jpg
Middle Fork and Lee Lakes
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

Day 6 – August 21, 2021

Our goal for the day was to day hike up to Noel Lake. We left camp at about 9:30 a.m. The weather seemed unsettled, with dark, wave-like clouds. It didn’t seem like a good omen. We hiked down from the bench, around Middle Fork Lake and close to Lee Lake. At this point, Neighbor decided to head back to camp. Compass and I continued. We worked our way up the slope through some cliffy sections and got high enough to see Lake Donna across the valley. We were close to Nylon Peak. The clouds started to settle lower, so we decided to turn back towards our camp. We followed grassy ramps and slabs back towards Lee Lake.

While we were stopped for a snack, the bushes nearby started to shake and out popped another backpacker. He was surprised to see us, and we were surprised to see him. He said that he was doing one of the high routes and that he had a bum ankle. He continued towards Bewmark Lake. We followed a few minutes later. The sky grew dark, and the clouds lowered. As we reached the use trail that leads to Bewmark bench, it started to rain. We raced up the steep hill, motivated by the rain. After a while the wind and rain died down. The sun came out.

At about 5 p.m., we heard a deep booming sound to the west. Compass said that it sounded like Thor’s anvil. We all gazed west at the dark blue-gray clouds. We tightened our tent guy lines and put extra big rocks on our stakes. We were in for a pounding. From the relative safety of our tents, we waited out the storm. It hailed, wind gusts blasted our tents, and lightening cracked. At 6 p.m. it was still hailing, and the air was much colder. The storm subsided at around 6:30 p.m., so we made a break for our bear canisters and started cooking dinner. While we were prepping dinner, another storm approached. We quickly ate our partially rehydrated meals and ran for our tents. The wind howled.

We lost count of the number of thunderstorms that passed over us in the early evening. At 9 p.m. another storm rolled through, with close lightening. We finally drifted off to sleep. I woke at about 10:30 p.m. The outside sounds were muffled and strange. I reached up and pushed on the top of the tent to find it covered in a layer of snow. Compass and I banged on the inside of the tent to shake the snow off. We could hear that the snow was still falling. Every 20 minutes or so we would bang the tent to shake off the snow. Eventually, the snow started pushing on the head and foot of our tent and creeping into the vestibules.

At about 11:30 p.m., I pulled on my warm clothes and raingear and climbed out of the tent. The snow had stopped. The trees around our site were bent over from heavy wet snow and the ground was covered. The snow was about three inches deep. The air was cold. It was a winter wonderland. I dug out the snow from around our tent and then went over to Neighbor’s tent and dug his tent out too. The wind shifted later that night and blew strongly from the west.

Day 6_Photo 1_Weather Change Coming.jpg
Weather Change Coming

Day 6_Photo 2_Lake Donna and Pronghorn Peak.jpg
Lake Donna and Pronghorn Peak

Day 6_Photo 3_Storms Moving In.jpg
Storms Moving In
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

Day 7 – August 22, 2021

We awoke to smoky skies and snow-covered ground. It was cold and breezy, and we wore all our clothes while we cooked breakfast and broke camp. Neighbor wondered if this was typical August weather for the Wind River Range. The sky gradually cleared from the west, and we set off for Kagevah Pass. It was a bit snowy going up and over the pass, but it was okay for hiking. We passed a pile of bear scat. We made it up the pass in about 45 minutes and were greeted at the top of the pass by a blasting wind. We followed the cairns and tried to avoid the deepest snow drifts. Amazingly, we saw a wolverine while descending from the pass!

We passed Lake Kagevah and the waves on the lake were huge. We saw an eagle and a mule deer. The sky was blue and cloudless. We passed windy Lake Heebeecheeche and crossed the outlet stream. Then we contoured around a forested hill to reach Lake 10,465. We found a flat, well-used campsite that was mostly protected from the wind. We had 360-degree views of cirques and mountains.

Day 7_Photo 1_Neighbor's Tent in the Snow.jpg
One of Our Tents After the Snow

Day 7_Photo 2_Photo Pass After the Stormy Night.jpg
Photo Pass After a Stormy Night

Day 7_Photo 3_Windy Kagevah Lake.jpg
Wind Waves on Lake Kagevah


Day 8 – August 23, 2021

We woke to the sound of coyotes howling. A little while later, we heard elk bugling. Neighbor wanted to chill in camp, so Compass and I headed off on a day hike to Lake 10,927. We traveled on green ramps and slabs. The outlet stream ran through a big, beautiful waterfall. We lunched at the lake.

We returned to camp via a route that took us close to Lake 10,463, where we startled several elk. We hiked on a ridge that parallels Lake Heebeecheeche, and were back at camp a little after 2 p.m. Compass and I like to chat loudly in bear country, and Neighbor said that he started to hear us about 20 minutes before we arrived at camp. This information made us happy.

We spent the rest of the afternoon soaking our feet in cold Lake 10,465 and eating tiny blueberries. We wondered how many of the tiny berries it took to fill up a bear’s stomach. We napped. While we were eating dinner, elk bugled. The evening was breezy. The day had been fun and relaxing.

Day 8_Photo 1_Outlet Falls from Lake 10,927.jpg
Outlet Falls Below Lake 10,927

Day 8_Photo 2_Lake 10,927.jpg
Lake 10,927
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arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

Day 9 – August 24, 2021

We packed up camp and began our hike back to the St. Lawrence Basin TH. We hiked out of Lake 10,465 and picked up the Heebeecheeche/Sonnicant trail, towards Entigo Pass. The trail went up and down through open forest. We saw the waterfalls above Raft Lake. We passed a couple of piles of bear scat.

We camped at a site about 400 feet below Entigo Pass. A large hill next to our campsite gave us great views of where we had climbed to Windy Ridge and views of Kagevah Pass, Dragonhead, Pronghorn, and Nylon peaks. We spent a long time on the hill just taking it all in. As the sun set, we heard lots of elk bugling. The moon was bright.

Day 9_Photo 1_View Towards Headwall of Glacier Creek Lakes Basin.jpg
View Towards the Headwall of Glacier Creek Lakes Basin

Day 10 – August 25, 2021

We slept through a nearly windless night, with a small rain shower and woke to a beautiful sunny day. Compass and I were about to run out of stove fuel and were overjoyed when we were able to cook the trip’s last meal on the fumes that were left in our fuel canister. All three of us stood on the hill near our camp and took panorama photos.

We packed up and walked towards and over Entigo Pass. On our way back to the trail head, we passed the same young horse packer and three dogs that we had seen on the first day of our trip. We talked with him about all that we had seen. He told us a bit about hunting on the reservation and how Chronic Wasting Disease was decimating the mule deer population. He headed off to pick up some clients, and we continued to the trail head. We walked down and down towards our car.

When we arrived at our car, we all put on cleaner clothes. We drove the rough road towards the main road, spotting lots of Pronghorn, horses and cattle along the way. We made it out to the main road and turned right towards Lander, Wyoming. We drove straight to the Gannett Grill for salads, pizza and beer.

Day 10_Photo 1_View West of Windy Ridge from Near Entigo Pass.jpg
View West of Windy Ridge from Near Entigo Pass

Day 10_Photo 2_Pizza at Gannett Grill.jpg
Lunch at Gannett Grill
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by Harlen »

Arkheel,

What a great trip and report. I got out my own trusty Beyond Trails guidebook by WD, and tried to follow you guys along. I reckon that the area of your great photo "Middle Fork and Lee Lakes ," same area that Nancy calls "Upper Watershed of Middle Fork Lake," is one we have to visit too. Is that Donna Lake hidden beneath the vertical wall of Pronghorn Peak? That would be a heck of a campsite, any fish in those lakes?

Not sure about your name Arkheel, but it does seem like many animals follow on your heels. Glad that you got to see and hear so much wildlife... and all that scat counts for something too. :nod:
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

Thanks for your kind words Harlan. It was a most amazing trip, especially in terms of wildlife. Donna Lake would be a heck of a campsite. I know that it is heresy to say on this website, but I'm not much of a fisherman. I'm sure that Wandering Daisy knows exactly which lakes have fish in them.

So, about my name. I grew up in Arkansas and now I'm a Tar Heel, so Arkheel it is.
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Snow in late August is quite common. Used to be a 100% chance of snow in August; nowadays, less so but still common. The "blueberries" you ate were more likely grouse whortleberries, a common groundcover. Small but very delicious, more purple than blue. Late August is also mushroom season- there are a few edible species. One we used to call "coral mushroom" (probably not its name) was very identifiable looking like coral. There are still huge herds of elk on the Reservation. One herd actually lives up on Windy Ridge- I ran into them when I was up there. Lake Donna is surrounded by talus- not likely to find a campsite there and no fish.

There are fish in Middle Fork and Lee Lake. I had good luck in the stream between the two lakes. None in Kagavah, but nice big ones in the lake just below and north of Kagavah but you cannot see it from Kagavah but you can see it on the ridge just before you drop down to Kagavah (it sits uphill above Sonnicant). The lakes in the drainage below Sonnicant also have nice fishing. The Glacier Creek Lakes all have good fishing. I caught a big Yellowstone Cutthroat in one of them a few years ago. Yellowstone Cutthroat look a bit like golden trout.

My friends in Lander said the smoke was from the California fires. There was a smaller local fire east of Dubois, but I think what you were seeing was the California smoke- also from Oregon. Cannot blame California for all of it.
arkheel
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Re: TR: Wind River Range - St. Lawrence Basin TH Loop, Aug. 16-25, 2021

Post by arkheel »

Wandering Daisy,

Thanks for the information on the berries. They were more of a ground cover plant and delicious.

When we spoke with the horse packer on the way out, we asked him about why there was so much wildlife in the area, compared to other places that we've been in the Winds. He thinks that the Reservation gets a lot less hunting pressure than other parts of the Winds. I don't know if that's true, but there was more wildlife for sure.
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