Since there have been similar recent trip reports out of Tuolumne, I thought there may be interest in this old 2006 report. I joined HST in 2008 so am not sure I ever reported this trip. I revised the text and re-processed the photos, since I did not have Photoshop back then. The camera I used was first generation digital with about a 2500 pixel limit. The 2006 trip was 11 days, 84.2 miles, 65% off-trail and 7.7 mi/day and it was a 230% snowpack year and at a week earlier than my recent 2021 trip; conditions were quite different including flowers and lingering snow! The goal was to a quick overview of a large area and I did little day-hiking or fishing.
Tuolumne to Minarets and Back: 8/30 –9/9, 2006
I had just finished a trip from Sabrina Lake and picked up cheesecake and strawberries at the deli and supplies at Wilson’s in Bishop. Then I drove north on 395, picking up pizza and cold beer at “Whoa Nellie” deli. I stopped at my usual pull-out near Tioga Pass where I discovered a big rock had been placed in the road. A fellow camper said that this site was now “illegal”. It was nearly dark and I was not going to move, so I hid in the back of my car, carbo-loading on beer, strawberries and cheesecake. Another couple showed up. If we got busted, I would have company.
Day 1: On the Trail Again
I quickly left at 6:00 AM and arriving in the Tuolumne backpacker’s lot, got out my chair, bundled up (it was almost freezing), cooked breakfast and coffee waiting for the kiosk to open. I went through my usual fretting over what to take and settled on my medium size internal frame Mountain Smith pack. With the required bear canister, I only had room for a bivy sack and threw in a book the last minute. The pack was agonizingly overloaded for its weight rating.
I was pleasantly surprised to learn a free shuttle would deliver me to the Cathedral Lake trailhead saving a few miles of walking. On the trail by 9:45AM I immediately missed the use trail turnoff to Budd Lake so it was up to Upper Cathedral Lake. Since my pack was killing me I decided to stay on the trail to Sunrise Camp. In spite of the heavy winter snow, many water sources were dried up. I arrived with a sore back and shoulders at 2:00PM.
After a rest, I decided it was just too crowded and had no view. I filled my collapsible water bottles, backtracked a little over a mile and camped on the ridge between Sunrise Camp and Echo Creek. I had a great view yet could hear the voices from the camp below. I hung the small amount of food that did not fit in my bear canister in a nearby tree. If I lost it to a bear I would go back and beg for food at the camp! I made a truce with the local big black ants, read and relaxed.
Although not a long day, it was a painful day of 8.6 miles, 2,020 elevation gain in 6 hours on the trail with an overloaded pack. Needless to say, I did not fully appreciate the scenery. I had remembered the trail as much more scenic from previous trips in early season when the vegetation was lush. At least there were no mosquitoes!
Day 2: Death March
My goal was to minimally reach Merced Lake. At 8AM I headed down to Echo. The granite domes and walls are impressive but the recent burn has devastated this drainage. I met few people on this trail. Echo Valley was hellishly hot so I stopped for a mid-day bath and lunch in the waterfalls below Merced Lake. Back on the trail I ran into quite a few well dressed folks who gave me looks as I walked by using my extra insoles as hip pads for my painful pack! I could not bring myself to camp at this busy place.
My goal now was to camp at the outlet of Washburn Lake. I was fading fast taking frequent stops. Somehow did not like the campsite at the outlet so went to the inlet, where I only found wet swampy camp spots. Later, I regretted not taking a photo at Washburn Lake. By now I was less intent on the perfect view and just wanted to get this damned pack off my back! I arrived across from Red Devil Fork of the Merced River and stupidly wandered up the hill and back, finally settling on a nice site between the trail and river, that although comfortable had no view. There was just enough sunlight to get a nice bath and wash clothes. While cooking dinner leaning against a rock, a day-hiker passed by going down to Merced Lake.
With a bivy sack one can sleep about anywhere, so I get obsessed with finding the perfect spot. My bed on soft pine needles felt great after the long day of 12.8 map miles (according to the trial signs it was 14.5 miles), 1,600 gain and 3,500 feet elevation drop, carrying my uncomfortable pack for 7.7 hours. The stifling heat did not help. I did not get much read that evening before it was dark and I was gazing at the stars.
Day 3: Red Devil Fork
Trail travel was done. My first obstacle was to cross the Merced River, which took 20 minutes to wade and get my shoes back on. I was immediately confronted with my second obstacle of how to get up the cliffs and steep exposed slabs in front of me. I followed game trails, did one tricky move and fractioned up the rock. Soon I was over the worst. I took my time wandering up this drainage with amazing glacially polished slabs, gushing stream and abundant signs of wildlife. At the head of the valley, with some moderately easy scrambling I surmounted the small cliff.
Once on the upper bench I headed due south towards Red Devil Lake, passing many small ponds, spooked several ducks and scrambled up small slots and cliffs, finally reaching the Red Devil Lake full of beautiful campsites. I was tempted to stay, but it was barley afternoon. After some intricate route finding I intersected the trail to Red Peak Pass.
I walked up the trail barely a quarter mile and stopped for lunch. I had hoped to climb Red Peak but it looked mighty far away and I was lazy. Instead I left the trail and headed due south and up broken rock, through a notch to a small pond and meadow full of flowers. Before dropping into the unnamed lake below, I explored the upper part of the Merced Peak Fork of the Merced River. I dropped to the lake, circled it and decided I liked it better halfway back up the creek! An advantage of soloing is that I do not have to justify any of my crazy ideas about camping to anyone. Although only 6.1 miles with 2,700 feet gain, I enjoyed my slow 7.6-hour day and decided to go to Edna Lake tomorrow.
Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
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Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
Day 4: Mixed trail and off-trail to Harriet Lake
I left at 8:00 and spent an hour exploring Edna Lake, finding only a few marginal rocky campsites and deep cold shadows. Although a worthy day trip, my campsite where the sun hit at 6:40 AM was better. I continued down the drainage of the Merced Fork on unique glacially polished fine grained metamorphic rock. By 9:40 I intersected the trail which climbed over a small pass and dropped into the Triple Peak Fork of the Merced where I relaxed on polished slabs next to the creek just above the trail junction.
I tried an off-trail shortcut up the drainage towards Turner Lake and found that there was a slot canyon not shown on the map that blocked me from getting back to the trail. I had to go half a mile further to cross before heading straight up to intersect the Isberg Pass Trail. Once on this trail four young members of a CCC trial crew on their Labor Day break passed me. They were even pulling logs off the trail on their break. At the next trail junction, I had lunch with them, then left the trail and skirted just below the ridge to Long Mountain through beautiful meadows, flowers and lakes with golden trout.
I almost camped at the small lake southwest of Harriet Lake. An internet report had cited this lake as a protected site and Harriet Lake as a Siberian wind tunnel. Somehow the wind tunnel sounded good. I arrived at my Harriet Lake campsite at 3:30 and spent about an hour looking around for a better campsite, but found none. At first I set up on the grassy shores full of Indian Paintbrush. I bathed and washed clothes and filled water bottles. Later I moved uphill into scrub trees to get out of the icy wind. My pack was now feeling better. Today I went an enjoyable 8.2 miles and 2,100 feet elevation gain in 7.3 hours. For some reason I slept poorly, probably worried about Forester Pass.
Day 5: Checking out Roper’s High Route to Twin Island Lake
I did not wake until 9:00 AM and left camp at 10AM! Later I was to find out that my watch had set itself ahead an hour so from this point on, all times I state are an hour off. On the east side of Harriet Lake I walked up the obvious alluvial fan and scrambled up the second grassy chute arriving below Forester Pass by 11 AM. I was now on a section of Roper’s High Route. The pass looked intimidating. I quickly ascended steep scree then traversed above a cliff to the pass that opened to a fabulous view of Blue Lakes. The descent required some trick route finding and one scary dihedral where I had to lower my pack. Midway down there was a lush bench with flowers and a small stream. Travel was now easy and I reached the upper Blue Lake by noon.
I was torn. Should I stay at Blue Lakes or continue onward? I decided to continue down the beautiful Bench Canyon slowly taking lots of photos in case I did not come back this way. My original plan was to find a route directly from the upper San Joaquin to the Lyell Fork. As I descended the west side the Minarets were always in view.
At 2:00 I reached the immense drop off to the San Joaquin River. Roper says of this next section, “the route finding during the next few hours is rather tricky.” No kidding! The map reading difficulty is compounded by jumping from English units to metric just at the most critical spot. I climbed the steep hillside and went through a notch. The next mile traverse was rough, tedious and confusing with steep talus, ups and downs and edge of map problems. I stopped at the first beautiful little stream and ate a snack. As I wondered out to the edge I discovered that the little lake I saw was just a melt water puddle, not the round lake I was looking for. I continued up and around, traversing over one more drainage, finding my lake at the half-way point. Here I stopped again to study my maps and decide my next step. I traversed over rock slabs and was forced up and down by cliffs, eventually shooting too low only to have to climb back up, arriving at Upper Twin Island Lake with little sunlight left.
A sheltered site next to a big tree was not to my liking with a dirt floor and small mammal poop. I dropped my pack at the lake and took a quick bath, catching the last rays of the sun. Dressed in my warm fleece, I walked around and found a flat spot a small distance from the lake where a tent peg was left in the ground. Another advantage of a bivy sack is that one can easily move camp! After supper, I strolled about a hundred feet through a notch and peeked over the edge to an amazing drop into the San Joaquin River, already deep in the shadows. I had traveled only 6.9 miles with 2,200 feet up and 2,700 feet down but it took 9 hours. I was tired and glad to hop into the bivy sack. The wind finally died down at 7 PM and I was snoozing.
I left at 8:00 and spent an hour exploring Edna Lake, finding only a few marginal rocky campsites and deep cold shadows. Although a worthy day trip, my campsite where the sun hit at 6:40 AM was better. I continued down the drainage of the Merced Fork on unique glacially polished fine grained metamorphic rock. By 9:40 I intersected the trail which climbed over a small pass and dropped into the Triple Peak Fork of the Merced where I relaxed on polished slabs next to the creek just above the trail junction.
I tried an off-trail shortcut up the drainage towards Turner Lake and found that there was a slot canyon not shown on the map that blocked me from getting back to the trail. I had to go half a mile further to cross before heading straight up to intersect the Isberg Pass Trail. Once on this trail four young members of a CCC trial crew on their Labor Day break passed me. They were even pulling logs off the trail on their break. At the next trail junction, I had lunch with them, then left the trail and skirted just below the ridge to Long Mountain through beautiful meadows, flowers and lakes with golden trout.
I almost camped at the small lake southwest of Harriet Lake. An internet report had cited this lake as a protected site and Harriet Lake as a Siberian wind tunnel. Somehow the wind tunnel sounded good. I arrived at my Harriet Lake campsite at 3:30 and spent about an hour looking around for a better campsite, but found none. At first I set up on the grassy shores full of Indian Paintbrush. I bathed and washed clothes and filled water bottles. Later I moved uphill into scrub trees to get out of the icy wind. My pack was now feeling better. Today I went an enjoyable 8.2 miles and 2,100 feet elevation gain in 7.3 hours. For some reason I slept poorly, probably worried about Forester Pass.
Day 5: Checking out Roper’s High Route to Twin Island Lake
I did not wake until 9:00 AM and left camp at 10AM! Later I was to find out that my watch had set itself ahead an hour so from this point on, all times I state are an hour off. On the east side of Harriet Lake I walked up the obvious alluvial fan and scrambled up the second grassy chute arriving below Forester Pass by 11 AM. I was now on a section of Roper’s High Route. The pass looked intimidating. I quickly ascended steep scree then traversed above a cliff to the pass that opened to a fabulous view of Blue Lakes. The descent required some trick route finding and one scary dihedral where I had to lower my pack. Midway down there was a lush bench with flowers and a small stream. Travel was now easy and I reached the upper Blue Lake by noon.
I was torn. Should I stay at Blue Lakes or continue onward? I decided to continue down the beautiful Bench Canyon slowly taking lots of photos in case I did not come back this way. My original plan was to find a route directly from the upper San Joaquin to the Lyell Fork. As I descended the west side the Minarets were always in view.
At 2:00 I reached the immense drop off to the San Joaquin River. Roper says of this next section, “the route finding during the next few hours is rather tricky.” No kidding! The map reading difficulty is compounded by jumping from English units to metric just at the most critical spot. I climbed the steep hillside and went through a notch. The next mile traverse was rough, tedious and confusing with steep talus, ups and downs and edge of map problems. I stopped at the first beautiful little stream and ate a snack. As I wondered out to the edge I discovered that the little lake I saw was just a melt water puddle, not the round lake I was looking for. I continued up and around, traversing over one more drainage, finding my lake at the half-way point. Here I stopped again to study my maps and decide my next step. I traversed over rock slabs and was forced up and down by cliffs, eventually shooting too low only to have to climb back up, arriving at Upper Twin Island Lake with little sunlight left.
A sheltered site next to a big tree was not to my liking with a dirt floor and small mammal poop. I dropped my pack at the lake and took a quick bath, catching the last rays of the sun. Dressed in my warm fleece, I walked around and found a flat spot a small distance from the lake where a tent peg was left in the ground. Another advantage of a bivy sack is that one can easily move camp! After supper, I strolled about a hundred feet through a notch and peeked over the edge to an amazing drop into the San Joaquin River, already deep in the shadows. I had traveled only 6.9 miles with 2,200 feet up and 2,700 feet down but it took 9 hours. I was tired and glad to hop into the bivy sack. The wind finally died down at 7 PM and I was snoozing.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
Day 6: Easy day in Paradise
I left camp at 8AM scrambling over the rock on the east side of the upper lake. I dropped down to the lower lake and traversed it on the west side, which contrary to Roper’s description, I thought looked easier and would avoid a deep river crossing. I had to go up one scary section of steep rock and one section of snow that was quite hard in the morning, but the rest of the route was not difficult.
Instead of going up the San Joaquin River, I headed up magic small slot valleys full of flowers that ended on the ridge immediately west of the river. I tried to stay on the rock ridge but was eventually forced down to the river. I arrived at a large unnamed lake at 10AM. Wanting the flexibility to camp anywhere, I kept on my pack and hiked a loop visiting all the lakes in this beautiful upper drainage of the San Joaquin River west of Mt. Davis and southeast of Rodgers Peak. I never found a better site than the first one I reached back at the first lake! I searched for an hour for just the perfect campsite! And what a site it was. From my trail notes, I wrote, “I am sitting here, bathed, hair washed, dinner cooked, in one of the most beautiful pristine locations I have experienced. And to add to the luck, the sun is still shining on me. The lake to my left is emerald-turquoise crystal clear, two beautiful waterfalls grace the foreground, green grass and tress against red rock, serrated peaks of dark gray behind, with meadows and grass prolific with Indian Paintbrush to my right and the Minarets behind. The colors are amazing."
Before the sun went down, I dumped out all my food and took stock. It was going to be tight. Although my original plan was to try to go over Old Bones Pass, I could not see a reasonable route and was worried about low food supplies and lingering snow that could be on the north side of the pass. But for now, I sunk into my warm sleeping bag surrounded by isolated splendor. It had been a wonderful day of 3.7 miles in 5 leisurely hours with only about 1,000 feet of elevation gain. It was a half day with plenty of time for photographing, sunbathing, washing and relaxing.
Day 7: Back to Blue Lakes
I left my paradise at 9:15, only dreading repeating the route to Bench Canyon a little less than I dreaded Old Bones Pass! I planned on making it a short day, staying at Blue Lakes. I tried a slight variation of route on the way back with no more success than on the way in. There is just no easy way to do this. I arrived at the Upper Blue Lake at 3:00 and had company- a young couple was camped between the lakes. They had been climbing and warned me about hard snow on the north side of Mt. Ansel Adams.
Clouds were building, so I quickly washed myself, socks and shirt and found a nice campsite. It rained a few drops. The little storm resulted in an amazing sunset with pink clouds and a rising full moon. The 5.8 miles returning to Blue Lakes was easier now that I knew where to go. Blue Lakes were definitely worth the short day to be able to enjoy the view. This campsite was just about as good as my previous day’s site. I decided to go out on the slab to enjoy the view and moon. I love camping on polished slabs because they are so clean, pure and flat and offer a perfect table for writing. I watched the fading sunset and the full moon rise. Clouds built up in the night and fearing runoff from the large smooth slab, I moved back onto the grass in the dark. It threatened but did not rain.
I left camp at 8AM scrambling over the rock on the east side of the upper lake. I dropped down to the lower lake and traversed it on the west side, which contrary to Roper’s description, I thought looked easier and would avoid a deep river crossing. I had to go up one scary section of steep rock and one section of snow that was quite hard in the morning, but the rest of the route was not difficult.
Instead of going up the San Joaquin River, I headed up magic small slot valleys full of flowers that ended on the ridge immediately west of the river. I tried to stay on the rock ridge but was eventually forced down to the river. I arrived at a large unnamed lake at 10AM. Wanting the flexibility to camp anywhere, I kept on my pack and hiked a loop visiting all the lakes in this beautiful upper drainage of the San Joaquin River west of Mt. Davis and southeast of Rodgers Peak. I never found a better site than the first one I reached back at the first lake! I searched for an hour for just the perfect campsite! And what a site it was. From my trail notes, I wrote, “I am sitting here, bathed, hair washed, dinner cooked, in one of the most beautiful pristine locations I have experienced. And to add to the luck, the sun is still shining on me. The lake to my left is emerald-turquoise crystal clear, two beautiful waterfalls grace the foreground, green grass and tress against red rock, serrated peaks of dark gray behind, with meadows and grass prolific with Indian Paintbrush to my right and the Minarets behind. The colors are amazing."
Before the sun went down, I dumped out all my food and took stock. It was going to be tight. Although my original plan was to try to go over Old Bones Pass, I could not see a reasonable route and was worried about low food supplies and lingering snow that could be on the north side of the pass. But for now, I sunk into my warm sleeping bag surrounded by isolated splendor. It had been a wonderful day of 3.7 miles in 5 leisurely hours with only about 1,000 feet of elevation gain. It was a half day with plenty of time for photographing, sunbathing, washing and relaxing.
Day 7: Back to Blue Lakes
I left my paradise at 9:15, only dreading repeating the route to Bench Canyon a little less than I dreaded Old Bones Pass! I planned on making it a short day, staying at Blue Lakes. I tried a slight variation of route on the way back with no more success than on the way in. There is just no easy way to do this. I arrived at the Upper Blue Lake at 3:00 and had company- a young couple was camped between the lakes. They had been climbing and warned me about hard snow on the north side of Mt. Ansel Adams.
Clouds were building, so I quickly washed myself, socks and shirt and found a nice campsite. It rained a few drops. The little storm resulted in an amazing sunset with pink clouds and a rising full moon. The 5.8 miles returning to Blue Lakes was easier now that I knew where to go. Blue Lakes were definitely worth the short day to be able to enjoy the view. This campsite was just about as good as my previous day’s site. I decided to go out on the slab to enjoy the view and moon. I love camping on polished slabs because they are so clean, pure and flat and offer a perfect table for writing. I watched the fading sunset and the full moon rise. Clouds built up in the night and fearing runoff from the large smooth slab, I moved back onto the grass in the dark. It threatened but did not rain.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
Day 8: To the Lyell Fork of the Merced River
I was up and out by 9AM with the goal to reach the upper Lyell Fork of the Merced River. First I had to get over Forester Pass. I went up the same way I had come down, but descended the north side straight down, which was much easier. I sat by the lake below the pass trying to decide what to do next. I could drop to the trail which would add about 3 miles or skirt under Forester Peak and drop down the gully west of Mt. Adams into Lake 10,217 but was worried about hard snow. I had remembered from a previous trip that I thought there were grassy ledges west of Lake 10,217 so I headed for an obvious low point on the ridge.
It was easy going on the south side but over the edge the north side looked impossible. Well, I would give it a try. The upper part was loose, seep and scary but once down this I found I could drop from one bench to another, ending up on a broad vegetated bench loaded the signs of bears. I noisily and easily traversed east to Lake 10,217 arriving at 1PM. I may have been the first person down this pass. It was class 2 with very tricky route finding and I could hardly recommend it as a good route.
After a late lunch, I circled the lake on the south, followed the drainage up to two more unnamed lakes, crossed the creek and climbed a grassy hill to the next bench of lakes at 10,800 feet. Clouds were again building so I hurried up slabs, grassy slopes and a few short class-3 cliffs. At 2:45 I was looking over a steep snowfield where I would go right into Lake 11,311 if I fell! I tried, but backed off, instead going the long winding way around to my camp on the north shore. Arriving at 3:30, shadows had already started to descend on me. No bath today.
The only camping at Lake 11,311 was on the north side on small grassy spots between boulders. Snow was still melting and most sites were wet. The lake was pretty but I was slightly disappointed being on the “ugly” side of the mountains. Before dark I heard and saw some people at the spot where I had encountered the steep snow. By 5:30 it was shadowy and very cold as I snuggled into my sleeping bag while cooking dinner. Thick frost covered the ground during the night. My water bottle froze. I was warm enough but slept poorly on my very lumpy site. I had come 6.9 miles, over two passes, with 2,300 feet elevation gain. Being chased by threatening rain I had hurried along in 6.4 hours.
I was up and out by 9AM with the goal to reach the upper Lyell Fork of the Merced River. First I had to get over Forester Pass. I went up the same way I had come down, but descended the north side straight down, which was much easier. I sat by the lake below the pass trying to decide what to do next. I could drop to the trail which would add about 3 miles or skirt under Forester Peak and drop down the gully west of Mt. Adams into Lake 10,217 but was worried about hard snow. I had remembered from a previous trip that I thought there were grassy ledges west of Lake 10,217 so I headed for an obvious low point on the ridge.
It was easy going on the south side but over the edge the north side looked impossible. Well, I would give it a try. The upper part was loose, seep and scary but once down this I found I could drop from one bench to another, ending up on a broad vegetated bench loaded the signs of bears. I noisily and easily traversed east to Lake 10,217 arriving at 1PM. I may have been the first person down this pass. It was class 2 with very tricky route finding and I could hardly recommend it as a good route.
After a late lunch, I circled the lake on the south, followed the drainage up to two more unnamed lakes, crossed the creek and climbed a grassy hill to the next bench of lakes at 10,800 feet. Clouds were again building so I hurried up slabs, grassy slopes and a few short class-3 cliffs. At 2:45 I was looking over a steep snowfield where I would go right into Lake 11,311 if I fell! I tried, but backed off, instead going the long winding way around to my camp on the north shore. Arriving at 3:30, shadows had already started to descend on me. No bath today.
The only camping at Lake 11,311 was on the north side on small grassy spots between boulders. Snow was still melting and most sites were wet. The lake was pretty but I was slightly disappointed being on the “ugly” side of the mountains. Before dark I heard and saw some people at the spot where I had encountered the steep snow. By 5:30 it was shadowy and very cold as I snuggled into my sleeping bag while cooking dinner. Thick frost covered the ground during the night. My water bottle froze. I was warm enough but slept poorly on my very lumpy site. I had come 6.9 miles, over two passes, with 2,300 feet elevation gain. Being chased by threatening rain I had hurried along in 6.4 hours.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
Day 9: Hutchings Creek
This day was full of misery as well as rewards. The sun did not hit my site until 10AM so no early start today! I was not packed up and ready to go until 11 AM (which was really 10AM because my watch was off an hour). In spite of low food I was bent on not skipping Hutchings Creek and would go a day without food if needed. I had hoped that not only could I get to Hutchings Creek, but that I would be able to go into Florence Creek. I was overly optimistic!
Not ten minutes out of camp, a rock rolled out from my foot and I planted one shoe in the icy cold lake. Within a half hour, I tripped and fell flat on my face. I bumped into a group of four fellows, glad that I did not fall on my face in front of them. I had lost track of the day and time and they got me back on track. I had gained an hour! I backtracked about a mile and then headed up Slugo Pass. This Class 2 pass proved to be very difficult. The south side was reasonable but the north side was an icy snow chute. I had to work my way down thin ledges and cliffs to the north, very carefully trying not to slip on the wet narrow ledges. There were a few moments that were the most unnerving yet of this trip!
Once down the pass, Hutchings Creek was delightful. This was the awesome side of the mountains with white granite cliffs and deep blue alpine lakes. I was sorry to have only a day’s food left. The numerous ponds west of Lake 10,505 were surrounded by little enchanted meadows and small cliffs. I thought of camping at one of these spots but it was only 3PM. I would have saved myself a lot of grief had I done just that! Instead I pressed on, ever curious to see what is over the next hill.
I headed down Hutchings Creek. A couple was hiking on the other side and as I jumped across I hit a slippery rock and fell into the creek and crawled out with a bloody shin. I felt a bit foolish. They were camped down on the Lyell Fork near the trail and were just day hiking. They went on and I soothed my bruised ego. I figured my leg would be less stiff the next day if I walked on it a bit more, so I headed down to the next little lake.
Crossing the stream again was to be difficult. I had to take off my pack and break it into two loads. I was a bit spooked about crossings by now. I was across by 4:30 and it looked like rain so I quickly hunkered down in my bivy irritated that I found myself in a horrible campsite near the unnamed lake at 10,250 after passing all those wonderful spots on my way here. A few drops fell. Although on a soft grassy spot, there was no view.
So I packed up and headed up over a ridge that involved some serious rock climbing! I dropped into Lake 10,372. I took off my pack and went looking for a campsite, ideally on the ridge I dropped down. No luck, so I camped on the rock slabs a bit west of the lake. This time I would not make the mistake of camping in morning shadows. I was finally happy with the site. I was in a set of broken glacially polished slabs that were part of a huge puzzle.It had a good view although not as great as previous sites. As I cooked dinner, another set of threatening clouds came in.
Although I had only gone 6 miles in 6.5 hours, 1,300 feet up and 2,200 feet down, this was a hard day for me. I was a bit shaken by my falls even though the most injured was my ego. Several days after I was out when I inspected my shoe soles I noticed they were impregnated with red dirt which may have reduced their ability to grip. Or it was just a bad day for me. It was a warm night, no dew and with full moon.
Day 10: Crowds Again
When I headed out at 8AM the swelling in my shin had subsided and walking was no problem. Dropping down slabs and then I had a 2-hour cross country traverse through some brush, easy forest floor and more rock slabs. I found the trail in spite of some late minute worries that I had missed it. About half way to the trail, in a swampy area by the stream I ran into three bears- a mother and two cubs. They all ran up trees amazingly quickly. I headed into the talus to be less threatening. Before I saw the bears I noticed several old plastic bags on the ground. Looks like the bears had been raiding backpacker’s food.
It only took a few minutes on the trail for me to realize how much I prefer cross-country to a dusty trail. With few views, I was just hauling it out. Once I hit Lewis Creek the trail was packed with hikers. One had lost his trekking pole. With eyes averted, I passed a lady who was taking a dump two feet off the trail, standing up wiping her butt. I was in civilization shell shock! I stopped at the beautiful falls at Florence Creek and met two great ladies who restored my faith in the general backpacker. Had I sufficient food, I would have explored Florence Lake and the Bernice Lake area.
As I walked up Vogelsang Pass I could see Gallison Lake, a place I had camped years ago when I climbed Pearson’s Peak. I took a bath and filled water bottles at the inlet of Vogelsang Lake and then found a nice campsite on the ridge above. I had hiked 11.1 miles in 7.5 hours, 2,600 feet up and 2,700 feet down. I pulled out the last of my food and decided to just dump it all together in one pot. This was the most disgusting meal I have had in a long time. I walked around my campsite and looked down at Fletcher Creek and the amazing granite walls and domes. At sunset I lay in my sleeping bag, sorry that the trip was ending. I always hate to leave the mountains. Laughter drifted up from the High Sierra Camp. Fletcher Peak glowed in the sunset. I slept poorly but enjoyed the moonlight. It was a cold night.
Day 11: Hungry Walk Out
I was up at dawn. With no breakfast I wasted no time to getting out. As I walked down the trail to the High Sierra Camp the trail was covered with ice. Just as the breakfast bell rang, I reached the camp and left a message there that I was OK in case I was reported missing. Then I quickly left. The smell of the food was too much! Halfway down the trail I ran into more CCC trail crews. By the time I hit the John Muir Trial things got crowded. I was very surprised to discover that Rafferty Creek was dry and thankful that I had decided to stop and camp at Vogelsang Lake the previous night.
It took 3.5 hours to hike out the 8.1 miles, all downhill. I stopped at the ranger station to report that I was OK, but nobody seemed concerned. Civilization creeps up on you when you walk out of the mountains. First a backpacker, then many, then day hikers, then tourists, then paved roads, then CARS! Ugh! The best part of the trip was the off-trail miles.
This day was full of misery as well as rewards. The sun did not hit my site until 10AM so no early start today! I was not packed up and ready to go until 11 AM (which was really 10AM because my watch was off an hour). In spite of low food I was bent on not skipping Hutchings Creek and would go a day without food if needed. I had hoped that not only could I get to Hutchings Creek, but that I would be able to go into Florence Creek. I was overly optimistic!
Not ten minutes out of camp, a rock rolled out from my foot and I planted one shoe in the icy cold lake. Within a half hour, I tripped and fell flat on my face. I bumped into a group of four fellows, glad that I did not fall on my face in front of them. I had lost track of the day and time and they got me back on track. I had gained an hour! I backtracked about a mile and then headed up Slugo Pass. This Class 2 pass proved to be very difficult. The south side was reasonable but the north side was an icy snow chute. I had to work my way down thin ledges and cliffs to the north, very carefully trying not to slip on the wet narrow ledges. There were a few moments that were the most unnerving yet of this trip!
Once down the pass, Hutchings Creek was delightful. This was the awesome side of the mountains with white granite cliffs and deep blue alpine lakes. I was sorry to have only a day’s food left. The numerous ponds west of Lake 10,505 were surrounded by little enchanted meadows and small cliffs. I thought of camping at one of these spots but it was only 3PM. I would have saved myself a lot of grief had I done just that! Instead I pressed on, ever curious to see what is over the next hill.
I headed down Hutchings Creek. A couple was hiking on the other side and as I jumped across I hit a slippery rock and fell into the creek and crawled out with a bloody shin. I felt a bit foolish. They were camped down on the Lyell Fork near the trail and were just day hiking. They went on and I soothed my bruised ego. I figured my leg would be less stiff the next day if I walked on it a bit more, so I headed down to the next little lake.
Crossing the stream again was to be difficult. I had to take off my pack and break it into two loads. I was a bit spooked about crossings by now. I was across by 4:30 and it looked like rain so I quickly hunkered down in my bivy irritated that I found myself in a horrible campsite near the unnamed lake at 10,250 after passing all those wonderful spots on my way here. A few drops fell. Although on a soft grassy spot, there was no view.
So I packed up and headed up over a ridge that involved some serious rock climbing! I dropped into Lake 10,372. I took off my pack and went looking for a campsite, ideally on the ridge I dropped down. No luck, so I camped on the rock slabs a bit west of the lake. This time I would not make the mistake of camping in morning shadows. I was finally happy with the site. I was in a set of broken glacially polished slabs that were part of a huge puzzle.It had a good view although not as great as previous sites. As I cooked dinner, another set of threatening clouds came in.
Although I had only gone 6 miles in 6.5 hours, 1,300 feet up and 2,200 feet down, this was a hard day for me. I was a bit shaken by my falls even though the most injured was my ego. Several days after I was out when I inspected my shoe soles I noticed they were impregnated with red dirt which may have reduced their ability to grip. Or it was just a bad day for me. It was a warm night, no dew and with full moon.
Day 10: Crowds Again
When I headed out at 8AM the swelling in my shin had subsided and walking was no problem. Dropping down slabs and then I had a 2-hour cross country traverse through some brush, easy forest floor and more rock slabs. I found the trail in spite of some late minute worries that I had missed it. About half way to the trail, in a swampy area by the stream I ran into three bears- a mother and two cubs. They all ran up trees amazingly quickly. I headed into the talus to be less threatening. Before I saw the bears I noticed several old plastic bags on the ground. Looks like the bears had been raiding backpacker’s food.
It only took a few minutes on the trail for me to realize how much I prefer cross-country to a dusty trail. With few views, I was just hauling it out. Once I hit Lewis Creek the trail was packed with hikers. One had lost his trekking pole. With eyes averted, I passed a lady who was taking a dump two feet off the trail, standing up wiping her butt. I was in civilization shell shock! I stopped at the beautiful falls at Florence Creek and met two great ladies who restored my faith in the general backpacker. Had I sufficient food, I would have explored Florence Lake and the Bernice Lake area.
As I walked up Vogelsang Pass I could see Gallison Lake, a place I had camped years ago when I climbed Pearson’s Peak. I took a bath and filled water bottles at the inlet of Vogelsang Lake and then found a nice campsite on the ridge above. I had hiked 11.1 miles in 7.5 hours, 2,600 feet up and 2,700 feet down. I pulled out the last of my food and decided to just dump it all together in one pot. This was the most disgusting meal I have had in a long time. I walked around my campsite and looked down at Fletcher Creek and the amazing granite walls and domes. At sunset I lay in my sleeping bag, sorry that the trip was ending. I always hate to leave the mountains. Laughter drifted up from the High Sierra Camp. Fletcher Peak glowed in the sunset. I slept poorly but enjoyed the moonlight. It was a cold night.
Day 11: Hungry Walk Out
I was up at dawn. With no breakfast I wasted no time to getting out. As I walked down the trail to the High Sierra Camp the trail was covered with ice. Just as the breakfast bell rang, I reached the camp and left a message there that I was OK in case I was reported missing. Then I quickly left. The smell of the food was too much! Halfway down the trail I ran into more CCC trail crews. By the time I hit the John Muir Trial things got crowded. I was very surprised to discover that Rafferty Creek was dry and thankful that I had decided to stop and camp at Vogelsang Lake the previous night.
It took 3.5 hours to hike out the 8.1 miles, all downhill. I stopped at the ranger station to report that I was OK, but nobody seemed concerned. Civilization creeps up on you when you walk out of the mountains. First a backpacker, then many, then day hikers, then tourists, then paved roads, then CARS! Ugh! The best part of the trip was the off-trail miles.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
Here are the maps of the route;
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balzaccom
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
Great TR, as always, Daisy. And lovely photos...thank you for this. I was going to ask about bighorn sheep--but this trip was taken before they were re-introduced into that area....
Check our our website: http://www.backpackthesierra.com/
Or just read a good mystery novel set in the Sierra; https://www.amazon.com/Danger-Falling-R ... 0984884963
Or just read a good mystery novel set in the Sierra; https://www.amazon.com/Danger-Falling-R ... 0984884963
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wildhiker
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
Thanks for another entertaining and informative trip report. Compared to this dry and smoke-plagued summer, it is so nice to see so much greenery and flowers even in late season, courtesy of a deep snowpack from the winter. I remember how wet and green the summer of 2006 was. We did a Labor Day trip on the PCT south from Sonora Pass that year, and there were fields of wildflowers still and some big snowbanks still blocking the trail.
You said this about the Sierra High Route from Twin Island Lakes to Blue Lakes:
-Phil
You said this about the Sierra High Route from Twin Island Lakes to Blue Lakes:
Others have also remarked on difficult travel along this route. I did this route with my wife and kids in 1997 and frankly remember it as simple and straightforward. I guess it just shows that slight differences in micro-route finding can make a big difference overall.Day 7: Back to Blue Lakes
I left my paradise at 9:15, only dreading repeating the route to Bench Canyon a little less than I dreaded Old Bones Pass! I planned on making it a short day, staying at Blue Lakes. I tried a slight variation of route on the way back with no more success than on the way in. There is just no easy way to do this.
-Phil
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giantbrookie
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
What an amazing trip and route! I've been to segments of these places on different trips but have not remotely approached connecting them in one trip and there are lots of places on this route I haven't been to.The "Tuolumne to the Minarets and back" reminds me of John Muir's Tuolumne to Ritter and back (different route, of course) on his first ascent of Ritter.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Old TR:2006 Sunrise-Merced-Red Peak Fork +SHR Twin Lks to Tuolumne
In 2006 I was making plans to do Roper's High Route (I did it in 2010). In the intervening years I checked out many other parts that I thought would be difficult so I would not get off route when I did the actual route. When I did the HR, Blue Lakes to Ritter Lakes went quite well. In 2008 I went up the San Joaquin via Hemlock Crossing and found an old mining trail that traversed to Ritter Lakes and used that instead of Roper's route. Because I really liked Hutchings Creek, I did a side trip to Hutchings Creek on the HR and did more day-hiking and camped at an more scenic lake.
So the 2006 route had more to do with specific areas I needed to check out or on my list of "to-do" rather than creativity. I also had always wanted to do Red Fork Creek up to Red Devil Lakes, so that is why I did the drop to Merced Lake. In 2011 I also went to Red Devil Lakes, this time a loop from Hernandez TH via Ottoway Lakes and Red Peak Pass and then Iseberg and Post Peak passes back. I do a lot in Yosemite because I live relatively close. However, this was the first time I was "restricted" within the park boundaries.
So the 2006 route had more to do with specific areas I needed to check out or on my list of "to-do" rather than creativity. I also had always wanted to do Red Fork Creek up to Red Devil Lakes, so that is why I did the drop to Merced Lake. In 2011 I also went to Red Devil Lakes, this time a loop from Hernandez TH via Ottoway Lakes and Red Peak Pass and then Iseberg and Post Peak passes back. I do a lot in Yosemite because I live relatively close. However, this was the first time I was "restricted" within the park boundaries.
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