Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

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Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by Lumbergh21 »

I'll be posting the journal I took during my six-day hike in the Kuna Crest area (with the exception of one day when I didn't write but did record my journal on my phone) along with some photos from the trip.

Prologue

After spending a week with my mom, I started the second half of my vacation with a 10-hour drive to Mammoth Lakes, CA. I had a yummy burrito from the Latin Market and a not so yummy hefeweizen from Distant Brewing (tasted like a light pilsner, no spice, not much flavor of any kind) before setting up my tent at the USFS New Shady Rest Campground in Mammoth.

Day 1
I actually got a decent night of sleep except for the two yahoos revving their engines as they drove through the campground at midnight. As usual, I forgot to pack something, my reading glasses. Good thing I won’t need to read any maps on this hike and can just rely on innate sense of direction and uncanny memory (people have tried, but it truly can’t be canned). I picked up a great chorizo breakfast burrito from the Latin Market (their burritos are so good for the price) and a bland mocha coffee from Stellar before driving to the Silver Lake trailhead to begin my first real adventure of the year.

I left the trailhead at approximately 8:42 AM per my phone (I forgot my watch too). Unfortunately, the trailhead bathrooms were closed due to CoVid because isn’t everything due to CoVid, the universal reason for anything and everything. As a result, nature’s first call was only an hour into my hike. Fortunately, this off-trail excursion led me to an empty water bottle that someone had left behind but that I retrieved. My next trash pick-up was some plastic wrappers that I found during my lunch break at the Crest Creek crossing before heading up to Algier Lakes. I think I really need to start bringing a trash bag along on these hikes to carry other people’s trash.

After lunch, I was sweating but feeling good as I climbed the trail up to Gem Pass. Once at the pass, I had a good view of the clouds piling up to the north. I was hoping that I would have a chance to make camp and do some exploring around Algier Lakes, but it wasn’t looking good.
Wher I Had Been.jpg
Algier Ponds.jpg
Cresting the ridge to the south of Algier Lakes, the lakes were beautiful, the clouds were ominous, and the wind was blowing. The large campsite by the lake outlet was taken by several large tents (trail crew possibly?), which was fine since I hadn’t planned to camp there. As quick as I could, I made my way to a few stands of trees opposite the peninsula between Lakes 1 and 2 and set up my tent in one of the stands, finishing just as the clouds let loose. It was your typical Sierra storm, lasting half an hour followed by intermittent rain for the next 2 or 3 hours. Unfortunately, this meant that I didn’t get a chance to take a dip in the lake. I’m planning for a 5:30 AM wake up, as I have a big day planned for tomorrow.
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by Lumbergh21 »

Day 2
I had a much better night of sleep without idiots in trucks driving around my campsite. The clouds left during the night. Though I was woken by a little more rain at 3 AM, a light wind dried everything out, and I was able to pack up a dry tent before heading over to the peninsula to do some reconnaissance for future trips. As I’m sure most of you know, there are additional tent sites on the peninsula that are probably superior to the one I chose in haste. Next up was a trip to the highest of the Algier Lakes where I took a short break after rinsing out my clothes and rinsing off myself. Boy it felt good to finally rinse off the dust and sweat from the previous day.
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Fully hydrated and carrying 2L of water, I began the climb to Koip Peak Pass followed by crunching up the talus to the summit of Parker Peak and descending to a wide-open saddle before climbing up to the summit of Mt. Wood.
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I signed the register on Parker Peak but could not find one on Mt. Wood. By now it was almost noon, and the clouds were building again. I made my way back to the pass and started my descent without attempting Koip and Kuna, which seemed like a bad idea given the weather conditions. Once again, the wind picked up, and a light rain began falling as I descended towards Parker Creek. The trail was in fairly good condition except for one 10-foot long section that had collapsed leaving behind a “trail” barely wider than the width of my foot and spelling certain death if that last bit gives way while someone is on it.

The storm clouds arrived earlier and were looking worse than the previous day, so after refilling my water at the bottom of the descent, I decided to camp at a nice site that I knew from last year just above the tarn at the bottom. The rain picked up and while my gear stayed dry – I draped my poncho over my pack as I set up the tent – I was very wet in short order. Fortunately, the clouds cleared earlier than the previous night, and I was able to mostly finish drying the clothes that I had rinsed out that morning. Once again, no evening ablutions for this dirty hiker. Hopefully, the weather will be better tomorrow, as it is going to be a big day.
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by Lumbergh21 »

Day 3 (No journaling today and no photos after about 10 AM, sorry)
I got off to a pre-dawn start though I was feeling a bit sick to my stomach. Parker Pass was beautiful as was Parker Creek Lake. I took about half an hour at the lake to filter 2L of water and rinse out my clothes from Day 2. The nausea was getting worse.
Parker Pass.jpg
20210726_070022.jpg
As I crossed back towards the trail from the lake outlet, I came across seven bucks, all looking pretty healthy. They kept about 100 yards between me and them, which made for poor quality phone photos but a very clear view to the naked eye. I also happened upon a couple of rabbits on my way to Mono Pass. With nausea continuing to build, I hiked over Mono Pass far enough to get a look at Upper Sardine Lake and all of the smoke hanging over Mono Lake and filling up Bloody Canyon. It was not a good sight, and I felt no need to continue further down canyon as my stomach was doing flips and I was feeling a bit weak this morning.
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Descending on trail for a bit before heading off to Kuna Lake, I came across the first two people that I had seen since a couple of horse packers below Gem Lake on Day 1. They were day hiking to Mono Pass, and I advised them that the views from Parker Pass were much better and that’s where I would head instead. They were looking a bit tired, and I don’t know if they agreed with me that the extra mileage would be worth it. I hope they did though. Once again, I headed off trail, crossing Parker Pass Creek and climbing towards Kuna Lake. I was feeling weak and took several breaks then it happened. That wasn’t flatulence (to use a polite term). My gastrointestinal distress had reached a new level around 11 AM. After a couple of additional stops, I eventually covered the last little bit of distance to Kuna Lake and found a place to set up my tent at 11:30, as the clouds once again filled the sky. I was now feeling very weak and was unable to even drink water. I tried mixing up a fizzy electrolyte drink, but that didn’t want to stay down either.

I spent the rest of the day in my tent moaning, shivering, sweating, and occasionally staggering to a hole that I had dug 40 feet from my tent. This was by far my worst day (and night) ever on trail. At least the rain stopped, and the sun came out around 7 PM. But, I didn’t feel like I could make it down to the lake to get more water; so I didn’t even try. Did I mention that the storm itself was one of the heaviest down pours, rain and hail, that I have ever experienced?
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by giantbrookie »

Neat report and photos. That area is one of the most gorgeous and (in my estimation) underrated areas of the High Sierra. It's a shame you had to battle nausea and GI tract issues in addition to having some unusually intense thunderstorm activity. I tend to enjoy off trail hiking far more than on trail, but the trail from Alger Lake to Parker Pass is special.

I notice that one comparative positive is that the air didn't look overly smoky in your photos. It was super smoky when I was up there in 2014. You can get some gauge of that from the photos in my 2014 post of a trip I did to that area from Dana Meadows (including Kuna Col, Lost Lakes, Alger Lakes, Kuna and Koip Peaks): viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11528
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by Lumbergh21 »

Day 4
I basically got no sleep last night, but I survived and was feeling better today. I decided to head down to Tuolumne Meadows and take a look at the YARTs schedule then decide if I feel like continuing on.

I packed up my still wet tent around 9 AM and left Kuna Lake just before 10 AM still feeling weak and nauseous. I tried cutting down and around with, as usual, too little down before trying to go around, but I don’t know if there is a wrong way to get to and from Kuna Lake as it all seems pretty easy. I arrived at TM after several bathroom breaks and a dip in the Dana Fork. At least the views while descending from Kuna were beautiful.
Kuna Crest.jpg
View North From Kuna.jpg
Dana Meadow From Below Kuna Lake.jpg
Coral Fungus (Edible, sort of).jpg
I checked the YARTs schedule (and used the bathroom) at the permit center. Apparently YARTs does not stop at Silver Lake and only at the Hwy 395 junction with June Lake, which is about 18 miles of road walking with no shoulder from Silver Lake.

I was not terribly impressed with the TM Store and Grill (sorry Mark, possibly just a bad year like it seems to be for a lot of businesses). I did keep a hamburger and a coke down and bought a bag of corn chips. Everything was higher priced than even VVR, which would seem to have a greater transportation cost, and the burger from the Grill was definitely not on a par with VVR or even Reds Meadow. At least there was a trash can where I dumped the trash I was carrying, including some foods that were suspects in the crimes against myself the day before.

I’m camped in the TM Backpackers Campground and still not feeling good but at least not bad. The guy in the site next to me is planning on leaving his gear in a bear box and day hiking to Yosemite Valley because the ranger told him he must be out by tomorrow, as that is the exit date on his permit. The hiker said that he was told if he is “caught” on trail with an expired permit, he will be fined $10,000. However, the ranger who just came through checking our permits told him he can’t leave his gear in a bear box for the day, and if he does, they will confiscate it and fine him for littering or something like that. What is going on with rangers?! I guess I should be happy they didn’t cite me for bailing due to illness, as my permit says I should be camped at Marie Lakes tonight. Evidently, there is no excuse (in a Yosemite Ranger’s mind) for not keeping to your planned itinerary. Goodness knows nothing could ever possibly happen while on a 250-mile hike to make you a day late (the guy next to me started at Cottonwood Lakes). Makes me wonder if these two Yosemite Rangers have even been on a weekend hike outside an established campground. I guess what I'm saying is either he got two bad rangers or things are way different in Yosemite than INYO, SEKI, etc. so be careful.
While I didn't get much done, at least it didn’t rain today.

Day 5
I got up early with good intentions of leaving early, but didn’t leave TM until 7:20 AM. What do they say about good intentions? I stopped at Ireland Creek to rinse my feet, rinse my socks out, and take it easy. My planned goal for the day was Marie Lakes, depending on how I feel and the weather. I think that I have enough food for at least three more days on trail. While relaxing at the creek, Christina from Munchen, Germany happened by, and we had a nice little conversation. She had hiked the JMT with her 12-year old son in 2015, the same year I did, and had planned to hike the PCT with her son this year. However, due to CoVid-19, her son wasn’t able to finish school early, and no Visas are being issued except 3-month tourist Visas anyway (evidently the risk becomes unacceptably high once you cross that 90-day threshold), so she had started a solo section hike of the PCT at Burney Falls. After dealing with the heat and lack of water early in her hike at the Hat Creek Rim, she had no intention of hiking through the desert and had decided to get off at Cottonwood Lakes. After nearly quitting at Donner Pass and hitching from South Lake Tahoe to Sonora Pass around the Tamarack Fire, she was looking forward to the last 200 miles of trail.

Not much to say about the views headed up to Donahue Pass, but it did start spitting rain at noon. As the clouds continued to build, I decided to camp about 600 feet below Donahue Pass at the top of the Lyell Fork headwaters with beautiful views of Lyell and Maclure and their glaciers. I was hoping to make it to Marie Lakes for lunch tomorrow and camp at Rogers Lakes. Just as I finished putting up my tent, the sprinkle of rain turned into a downpour. A couple of guys came through camp having left the summit of Lyell just in time.
Lyell Peak and Glacier.jpg
Okay, this is not your typical Sierra afternoon storm. This is some of the hardest rain and hail I have ever experienced anywhere in California on trail or off. I thought that I had chosen a flat spot with good drainage, but after an hour of rain, hail, thunder and lightning, and gusting winds for extra enjoyment, my tent floor is floating, and I have some water from misting and splash back moistening everything in the tent. I hope the new backpackers that I met down in Lyell Canyon are doing okay. I can’t imagine what my reaction would have been if my JMT hike had started out with a storm like this. I probably would have turned around and hiked out the next morning. I also hope they are ok physically. Getting wet in a storm like this is no joke.

Two and a half hours later, the heavy rain and hail have slowed to just a moderate rain, and the area around my tent is finally starting to drain faster than the rain is coming down. I don’t know how much rain has fallen, but it’s a lot. The slope that the trail goes up on the opposite side of the headwaters had no visible water coming down it when I pitched my tent; now it is a roaring waterfall. I’m rethinking Marie Lakes and plan to bust out the 15 miles to the Silver Lake trailhead tomorrow. Whether it’s the weather and my health or just my attitude, this hike is not fun or relaxing and not really challenging either, at least not in the way I like to be challenged.
Calm After the Storm.jpg
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by Lumbergh21 »

giantbrookie wrote: Tue Aug 10, 2021 7:59 am Neat report and photos. That area is one of the most gorgeous and (in my estimation) underrated areas of the High Sierra. It's a shame you had to battle nausea and GI tract issues in addition to having some unusually intense thunderstorm activity. I tend to enjoy off trail hiking far more than on trail, but the trail from Alger Lake to Parker Pass is special.

I notice that one comparative positive is that the air didn't look overly smoky in your photos. It was super smoky when I was up there in 2014. You can get some gauge of that from the photos in my 2014 post of a trip I did to that area from Dana Meadows (including Kuna Col, Lost Lakes, Alger Lakes, Kuna and Koip Peaks): viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11528
Yeah, I looked at your report in prep for this. I passed through in the other direction in 2020. I had really wanted to spend a full day exploring the area this year then cross over the pass at Helen Lake, but my body was not allowing it.
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by wildhiker »

While you were doing this hike, I was traversing the Cathedral Range cross-country and getting rained on every day. Your day 5 with the terrific rainstorm at the headwaters of the Lyell Fork was my day 4 camping at Ireland Lake. That was also one of the rainiest days I have ever experienced in the Sierra, with four separate thunderstorms roaring through between 11:30 am and about 7:00 pm. Each storm had heavy rain and hail and thunder and lightning for about 1/2 hour, with moderate rain tapering to light for another 1/2 hour. After each storm, I was hopeful that it was over and I could continue (I had originally planned to continue over Amelia Earhart Pass that day), but when I got out from under my tarp to look around, I could see the next storm with dark clouds approaching. I also had problems with water puddling around my tent - I was bailing the big puddles with my bowl!
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by Lumbergh21 »

Day 6
It finally cleared off after 8 PM last night and left me with a beautiful sunset view. I’m putting off any final decision, but multiple trips to my hand dug bathroom last night have pretty much decided what I’m doing today.

The trail up to Donahue Pass showed the evidence of yesterday’s storm: standing water everywhere that it wasn’t running water, plants plastered to the ground, and sediment piled up against rocks. Reaching the pass, I took a short cross-country walk over to the tarn on the south side of the pass. Reaching it, the climb to the ridge is obvious; the only question is what is the other side of that ridge like? Could I descend from the ridge down to Upper Marie Lake? The answers will need to wait for another trip as clouds were already starting to form at 8 AM, and I didn’t have the energy to go exploring and make it back to my car today. I decided another day of rain, hail, and general wetness while sick on trail didn’t sound like a fun vacation. Besides I also forgot to pack any coffee. It’s one thing to forget glasses and struggle to read a map, to have no watch, or to run out of TP; but quite another to continue hiking without any coffee.
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I reached the Rush Creek Trail Jct to Waugh Lake around 11:30 AM along with the rain. Fortunately, I was able to get my poncho over me and my pack before it really started coming down. Soon, the rain was joined by hail pelting me as I walked towards Waugh Lake and beyond. It only took about half an hour, but the trail was a mixture of slow moving and fast moving water as it cascaded down the steep parts before pooling up and meandering through the flat areas. Though my poncho kept the rain off everything above my knees, sweat began to soak my shirt, and my pant legs were plastered to my wet shins. I couldn’t stop moving, as that’s when the shivering started.

Well, about half-way around Gem Lake to the dam, the rain basically stopped. It was only a light sporadic rain where I was by then, though I could see it coming down to the west of me in sheets. I heard helicopters for about an hour before I saw one taking off from the Gem Lake dam area. Getting closer, I could see that the helicopter was carrying away sacks from the dam. Of what, I don’t know. As I descended towards Agnew Lake dam, I could see that it was a single helicopter transporting something from the Gem Lake dam to the June Lake Resort area.

I was close enough to almost taste hot food and feel the warmth of a hot shower at Agnew dam, but the last 1.2 miles (according to the map) took me an hour to cover, which makes me question my map, as I felt like I was moving quite a bit faster. It’s 4 PM now, and I’m going to get a room in the Carson City area or possibly Reno before driving the rest of the way home tomorrow. I did meet a doe and her two fawns where the trail passes above Silver Lake Resort; however, this hike was not the vacation I had hoped for. Every evening that the rain was pouring down, I hoped it was at least falling on the Tamarack Fire and providing some help, but it seems that it wasn’t (the destruction along 395 was unfathomable to me). Huh, look at that, a YARTs bus stop at the entrance to the parking lot.
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by windknot »

Thanks for the report. It sounds like you persevered despite significant gastrointestinal issues to still have a decent trip through really pretty country.

I had been looking forward to a post-hike burger at the TM Grill, but it was closed this past Sunday afternoon. Glad to know we didn't miss much. Appreciate the food tips for the next time I'm in Mammoth, too!
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Re: Wet Wanderings, Loop Over the Kuna Crest and Back, 7/24 - 7/29

Post by giantbrookie »

I hope you didn't take too long to recover after you got out of the backcountry. I can relate to the GI tract thing on backpacking trips. My worst experience was on a 5-day off trail trip I called "Astride the Glacier Divide" and my GI tract started going south early on day 2 of 5 and I also had a bit of a fever too. The finale hiking out from Knob L to North L was over-the-top for the number of stops made to relieve the lower GI activity/distress. That having been said, I didn't have to deal with downpours on top of that as you did.

On the other hand, perhaps the downpours contributed to...

One thing that stands out as a positive on your trip was how remarkably clear the air was. Those photos are beautiful and show views so much nicer than the super smoky ones I had in 2014.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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