TR: Evolution Basin High Pass Loop July 5-9, 2021

[CAMERONM]

(A longer report with more photos, maps and movies may be found here: https://www.trailnamebackstroke.com/evo ... -pass-loop)

I maintain a Caltopo map of all my recent Sierra hikes, and this trip was designed to fill in a gap in the map of some places where I have not previously ventured. I did no research on these places and just made decisions by carving out what seemed an interesting path on the map. I wanted to experience the two high-passes Lamarck Col and Haekel Col, and fill in the area between Goddard Canyon and Evolution Basin, below Emerald Peak. Originally I was going to sweep down as far as the Ionian Basin to climb Scylla, but I needed an additional day and was not going to miss the last game of the Eurocup for some peak that isn’t going anywhere soon.

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High-passes are exactly that- places to cross mountain ranges at very high altitude that are almost always somewhat rough off-trail travel. They may be the most direct path to travel to a destination, but may not be easier than taking the long ways around on a trail to get to the same place. The graph below shows the significant 4,000 ft ascents and descents required on this trip.

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I drive up from Los Angeles and depart at 1:30 pm from Lake Sabrina headed for Lamarck Col. It starts with a very attractive trail. Beyond that, “use” trails are easy to find and the Lamarck path is even indicated on the Mapbuilder Topo map, so it is not an esoteric route.

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The climb over Lamarck Col is a common garden variety class-2 talus slog with small climbing episodes.

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At the top I get my first glimpse of the Darwin Canyon Lakes. I meet three guys who are half my age who complain about the hike up, so my ego and self-doubts are partially relieved. Once at the bottom I jump in for a quick swim. Anything more than two minutes and my body temperature will drop too much and I will be too chilled. The walk along the several lakes over talus is slow going and a bit tedious.

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Beyond the Darwin lakes I descend to the area known as Darwin Bench, and it is so outstanding that I slow down and spend several hours admiring the many water features and general beauty. Just the drop of a few hundred feet introduces a lot more scenic vegetation. I really can’t believe that I have not visited here before; it should be celebrated as a premium destination.

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I descend another 1,000 ft and join the John Muir Trail in Evolution Valley. Everything changes- trees, meadows, vegetation and animals all appear, with the peak The Hermit always in view.

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The next day I pass through a series of unnamed lakes that sit under Emerald Peak. I reach a pass that on the High Sierra Topix site is “unofficially” named Emerald Pass because of the nearby Emerald Peak; seems like a good name. Several paths seem obvious from afar, but it proves to be tricky to connect it all up. Nothing terribly difficult, but not something for class-2 hikers.

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The lakes on the other side prove to be especially scenic and pleasing, especially 10865.

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I reach the numerous lakes extending over a large area that constitute the McGee Lakes. They are intermixed with islands and other terrain features, so no one photograph does an adequate job of capturing the place.

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Pass 11720 connects the McGee Lakes with Davis Lake. When I reach the top I look around briefly for an alternate route out because it is clear that this will be a very long and ugly descent. The steepness, rocks and sand are not the worst I have ever experienced, but they rank up in the top ten for unpleasantness.

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I am relieved to reach the bottom and jump in for a quick swim. I had planned some time to explore Davis Lake only to discover that there was really nothing to explore and no reason to stay around.

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continued next post...

[CAMERONM]

I find a nice spot south of Sapphire lake where I can see and contemplate the hike over Haeckel Col the next day.

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The hike up to Haeckel col is a fun and intermixed class-2 + 3 climb. I am always dismayed by how much I slow down at 12,000 ft. I have learned to not get too frustrated and just accept that travel at high altitude is just naturally slower. I try to cross over at an impossible high point and have to go back down and feel around to find an acceptable point to descend. As has been noted eleswhere, the best cross-over is actually north of the low point of the pass.

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Next time, I may just go the long way around on a trail. These high passes are neither easy nor fast.
I documented some of these passes and will add to the cross country pass database soon.

[sekihiker]

You must have had a ball planning this trip. From the photos and report, the careful planning was worthwhile. Thanks for sharing your adventure. You sure covered a lot of territory, Cameron.
I highly recommend viewing the longer report by clicking the link at the beginning.

[windknot]

What a great loop! Thanks for sharing. I like your word choice -- Lamarck Col is a "common garden variety class-2 talus slog" indeed!

Lake 10865 is one of the prettier lakes I've camped at. And I've eyed that pass at 11720 on the map, wondering if it would save time going between McGee and Davis over taking the "long" way traversing south to Davis Pass. Your report is assuring me that it's probably not worth it for me.

Thanks again!

[CAMERONM]

And I've eyed that pass at 11720 on the map, wondering if it would save time going between McGee and Davis over taking the "long" way traversing south to Davis Pass. Your report is assuring me that it's probably not worth it for me.

If you are approaching from the south/JMT, getting to McGee by going over the pass above lake 11293 looks a lot better- at least in topo.

[cgundersen]

Hi Cameron,
Wow, phenomenal trip! For how I'm ambulating these days, you covered a lot of terrain in that period. Now, I need to look at the longer version. Cameron

[jeremiahkim]

Those photos on your site from Sapphire at sunset, especially looking down Evolution Valley are stunning. I also found Darwin Bench lovely. Thanks for sharing.

[Flamingo]

Hey Cameron, what an awesome route!? Thanks for introducing me to Emerald Pass. Your specific combination of multiple high passes through this area seems quite clever.

PS, I loved your photos and video, especially the dragonfly video.

[giantbrookie]

That is one heck of an off trail route visiting my favorite part of the High Sierra. Great photos, too. It's been over 40 years since I crossed Haeckel Col and I conclude that I must have missed the best route, because the northeast side was really athletic class 3 (beyond my comfort zone with a full pack); perhaps I had attempted to go through the low point, but it's been so long ago I'm not sure. Of the photos, the one that really caught my eye was Lamarck Col. I've never seen Lamarck Col without the signature snowfield (with "use groove") on its north side. Really neat trip!

[robertseeburger]

I read this last night and said to myself I will read again and reply in the morning..
And the one thing that caught my eye was the lack of the snowfield on Lamarck Col.. but giantbrookie beat me to that comment.
Amazing that in July there is no snow there.. (sad). I have been over this several times and never thought this would be gone.

What an amazing route.. Beautiful country.

Cameron, how could you never have been to Darwin Bench? Haha.. I think each of us has an area that we are amazed that we have never been.

The lakes on the other side are very seldom visited.. I remember a conversation with the McClure long time ranger (Dario..since retired) about one of them that had decent fish in them and he remarked that he had never been ( a surprise) and would have to check it out.

The picture of 10865 is really really nice.
I was there in 2017, about the same time of year, but it was frozen and the whole area was a sea of white.
Amazing how much of year to year difference.

Great trip report!