Options for Piute Pass TH

[BardoPond]

We're heading out from Piute Pass in the last week of June but we haven't yet decided on our route. We're aiming for 3 nights with 4 full days of hiking.

I'm looking at two options:
1) The short x-country loop via Alpine Col and Lamarck Col
2) Exploring Humphreys Basin and going back the same way

Option 1 was my idea when I booked the permit, but I'm now evaluating more carefully what kind of ordeal I'd be putting my partner through. She's more concerned about safety (e.g., falling into a lake while boulder hopping with packs, walking on steep unstable talus) than the physical effort. Besides that, I want to make sure we spend enough time taking in the surroundings, not just getting across tricky terrain.

With that in mind, here are some questions:
- Besides the slog, how sketchy are the two passes under normal conditions (I realize this is subjective)?
- Should we bring our microspikes in case there is snow on the passes? Wondering what we can extrapolate based on previous years.
- Do we need to budget a full day for getting past all the talus surrounding Alpine Col?
- Any idea of what temperatures we can expect camping at 11k+ feet that time of year? We're eager to drop some of the extra layers we didn't need in previous trips, but we don't know what to expect.

More generally, I'm interested in suggestions about what to visit along the way. Desolation Lake has been on my radar for a while, so the idea is to camp there the first night. Assuming the loop takes 3 days, we would have a layover day to allocate either to Humphreys Basin or Darwin/Evolution. If we go with option 2, we will see more of Humphreys and leave the rest for a future trip out of Lamarck.

[Harlen]

Bardo,

What a nice dilemma to have! Those are two great options, so you can't go wrong.... unless your partner does fall in the lake. If I recall, there was a bit of that fear while crossing above one of the lakes on the way to Alpine Col. Alpine Col to Lamarck would be the higher, wilder route for sure; the views up at the north faces of the Mendel-Darwin wall are pretty amazing, but those cols are 2 hard-slogging, uphill efforts.
On the other horn of your dilemma, Humphreys Basin has innumerable day hiking options. I love the view up at Mt. H. from H. Lakes ... and I've recently heard there are badgers who live on the slopes around Big Deso. Lake. For easy climbs-- Peak 12,228 on the ridge that separates H. Basin from French Canyon, is a dead easy climb, and has a great view. A nice hike would be up to the Goethe Lakes, and then up onto the easy ridge to the west, that leads to a nice vantage point-- Peak 12,127. Climbing up Muriel Peak is another, more strenuous option in H.Basin. It looks easiest from the east side, up from the Lost Lakes Basin, but The Climber's Guide says that class 2-3 routes can be found above Goethe Lakes.

Are you fishing? The experts can chime in on the fishing; I've never fished there, but I've heard it can be good; and that applies to both sides of Glacier Divide, so either route can bring you to the fish. Best of Luck, Ian

[maverick]

Option 1 was my idea when I booked the permit, but I'm now evaluating more carefully what kind of ordeal I'd be putting my partner through. She's more concerned about safety (e.g., falling into a lake while boulder hopping with packs, walking on steep unstable talus) than the physical effort. Besides that, I want to make sure we spend enough time taking in the surroundings, not just getting across tricky terrain.

Based on your partner's concerns, option 2! You can climb Pilot Knob via the saddle between Knob Lake and Chevaux Lake (class 2) if you feel adventurous and explore the rest of Humphreys Basin; there are plenty of lakes to keep you busy for days.

[wildhiker]

Your mileage may vary, but I thought Alpine Col was a really nasty pass, at least when following the route described in Secor. On the west side you have to climb through a field of enormous boulders in a chute leading up to the pass - I remember doing a lot of pushing off boulders with my hands while trying to find the next move with my feet. On the east side, after the requisite talus field (more normal size), you traverse sloping granite slabs above the west side of lake 11,910. In retrospect, there may be an easier route on the west side going up scree and smaller talus and slabs to the southwest and working your way back northeast to the pass, and it actually looked like it would be easier to work along the east shore of lake 11,910 on the east side. Anyway, I'll never know because I swore I would never do that pass again!
-Phil

[stevet]

Option 1 may create the "nudgies". This from the south side of Alpine Col:

Bottom of Alpine Col.JPG

The north side as you descend to Goethe Lake has some huge (stable) talus blocks, and a long talus hop around the lake. This is a look back at Alpine Col from the outlet of Goethe Lake. Your circle the lake to the right.

Alpine Col from Goethe Lake.JPG

Lamarck Col will have it's snowfield to navigate, the run out is the melt pond. (photo compliments of Maia's website) Microspikes advised:


In all this is a scenically spectacular, physically challenging loop. You will spend a good amount of time, probably more time getting from point to point than taking in surroundings. Also, to your partners fear, you may spend a bit too much time a bit too close to water for comfort.

Option 2 offers more soak time in spectacular scenery and as Harlen and Maverick note, there are plenty of options to explores and scratch the adventurous itch.

[Wandering Daisy]

If you stay in Humphreys Basin, you can still go up to Goethe Lake and hop the boulders to between the lower and upper lake. See how your partner does- this should be relatively easy compared to doing Alpine Col. This may be a good test for a future trip (your plan 1). Either way do not skip Muriel Lake- it is wonderful. You can then drop down to to Golden Lakes, perhaps day hike to Packsaddle Lakes. I have never been very impressed with Desolation Lake. I think an exploration of all the Humphreys Lakes is more interesting. Also the lakes on the east side of Piute Pass are quite nice.

[SSSdave]

I've done Alpine Col decades ago and share wildhiker's opinions. Simply put, navigating through considerable giant talus is about the most dangerous thing a backpacker carrying weight might do on any route. There is a long list of interesting and exciting things to do for a week plus on either side of Glacier Divide without having to mix them in what would end up too much effort with time better spent.

[Troutdog 59]

Hey BP,

I've gotta go with the others and vote for Option 2. Not that I know you guys couldn't do option 1 cuz I don't, but if I was concerned about if my partner enjoying option 1, I would go with option 2. Humphreys Basin is just simply gorgeous and easy to navigate. Hike in and spend your days exploring the nooks and cranny's along the Glacier Divide or around beautiful Mt. Humphries and one can't really go wrong. You'll get to see how your partner handles the conditions, and if it turns out to be easy peasy, then do Lamarack (which I've done) and then on to Alpine Col (that I haven't done) the next trip. Just my 2 cents. Have a great time!

[Wandering Daisy]

Alpine Col is not inherently dangerous, it does requires skills that most climbers have, but many backpackers do not. You must be able to weave your way through talus, find the easiest route, and do a few leaps from rock to rock with a pack. I did this pass, going down, last day of my SHR (30 days out). I had a very light pack, was in great shape, and had decades of climbing experience. So, no it was not too hard for me, and weather was perfect. Even with all that, I had to back-track a few times to find the easiest route. Having gone over Snow Tongue Pass in horrible conditions, I thought Alpine Col safer.

[paul]

Everything I've ever heard about Alpine col is that it's a great route for a ski trip when the talus is covered by snow. Otherwise, unless talus hopping is your very favorite thing to to, stay away. I'd much rather wander around Humphreys Basin for a few days. Desolation Lake - well, it's big. But exploring around the Humphreys Lakes, and Marmot lake, and Cony lake and all the little lakes and stuff in the east , high part of the basin - magical. Tomahawk is nice, Muriel is great, the Golden Trout lakes are gorgeous; I've only been to Packsaddle on skis but I bet it's mighty nice in the summer too, and the cirque it is in is spectacular. Knob Lake is nice. Numerous spots on the ridge between Humphreys Basin and French Canyon have great views, and there are several routes over into French Canyon if you want to explore that as well.