Route advice: 2 weeks in SEKI in august

[goldberry]

Hi!

My partner and I are planning two weeks backpacking in SEKI. I've laid out a route for us, but I'd love feedback (especially sights worth seeing near the current route, or alterations that increase beauty/isolation with minimal cost). I think I may have underestimated our speed here, actually, so I'm also interested in advice on longer detours if we're ahead of track - I like plans that are easily modifiable. Of course we can make calls at the time, but "oh, you should definitely add X loop or stop by Y lake if you have time" would be awesome advice here.

A bit about us: late 20s/early 30s, fairly fit. My backpacking experience is mostly on the east coast, plus a lot of time in Colorado. Comfortable with few-week long trips, and comfortable with consistent ~15+ mile days on a trail on terrain like the Colorado trail. Can do more, but I'll be unhappy after several 20+ mile days on that sort of terrain. A bit of off trail experience in the SE US. My partner has similar background, plus some additional off trail experience in Alaska. I would say neither of us is very experienced with off trail travel. Neither of us have spent any time in the Sierras. We both have some climbing experience, but the last few years have seen a number of fatal accidents in our circles, and I'm not interested in anything horribly exposed or that feels dangerous - let's say class 2 and below.

The planned route:

Start at Roads end. Take copper creek up over Granite Pass and down to Simpson's meadow. This looks like a punishing start.

Follow Middle Fork Kings up to the JMT.

Follow JMT down to by Kearsage pass. Over the pass to resupply on food.

Back over Kearsage pass. Follow trails to East lake.

Follow trail [is there a trail here?] to Lake Reflection.

Leave trails behind! Around the north side of Lake Reflection, and then over Longley Pass. Down Cunningham Creek, around the ridge NW of Thunder Mtn, and then over what I think is callled Thunder Pass (due west of Thunder Mtn).

South to Talus Pass. Up and over it.

Follow stream S of Talus pass to the Colby Pass trail. Follow the trail N, and then go south on the west side of the whaleback.

West over Copper Mine Pass. Stay high and continue westward until just N of Elizabeth Pass; pick up the trail here. Take the trail N through Deadman's canyon, and follow over Avalanche pass and back to Roads End.




Anyways: any advice on what things near this route we shouldn't miss? Or anything that's a bit of a detour but definitely worth seeing? Bonus points for detours that aren't just out-and-back.

[grampy]

I don’t count myself qualified to give you advice on your route, but I did take a few minutes to roughly map it out.
It came out (for me) to about 135 miles (76 and 59 miles on your 1st and 2nd legs, respectively. Elevation gain (and loss) at roughly 41,000 feet, for the whole thing. You must be in really great shape!
It sounds like a fun trip

[TurboHike]

A few thoughts:

You're correct about the start... punishing is a good word.

As a general rule of thumb, I plan my trips using the following rule: 2 trail miles = 1 off-trail mile. So, if I generally do 14 miles on trail per day, I would plan for only 7 off-trail miles. Most days I do less than this since the scenery convinces me to stop and take it in.

It appears that you'll be passing through the Rae Lakes area, which can be busy. If you have the time/energy, take the use trail up to Sixty Lakes Basin and camp up there for the night. Very scenic and it'll get you away from the Rae Lakes crowd.

I have one route suggestion to consider. The Upper Kern basin and Milestone Basin are two the best areas in Sequoia National Park, in my opinion. My suggestion is to stay on the JMT, go over Forrester Pass, go to Lake South America, then through the Upper Kern Basin, through Milestone Basin, over Milestone Pass, and then through Milestone Bowl (great views of the Kaweah range) to the Colby Pass trail. This would be a substitute for the East Lake to Colby segment. The crux is Milestone Pass and the mileage is probably longer. Something to chew on!

[thegib]

Your route once you leave East lake is great! All do-able and worth doing. Except, don't go down Cunningham creek just to come back up to Avalanche pass. Keep following the western edge of the GW Divide thru Sphinx Col to Sphinx lakes and descend Sphinx creek. Camp just below S. Guard lake and Big Brewer lake and at Sphinx lakes - they're all spectacular.
And Copper creek is brutal anytime but August is hot and it's a south facing slope and etc.

[wildhiker]

thegib's suggestion shortens the route, but leaves out Cloud Canyon and Deadman Canyon - both very scenic. But a good option if you are running behind on your schedule.

A couple of things to keep in mind:

1) For the past few years, major wildfires have erupted around the state in August, often leading to smoky conditions in parts or all of the Sierra. This year is very dry (4th driest on record in California, I have read) and follows another dry year in 2020. So fires could be bad. Early August is a better bet than late August to avoid smoky conditions. Have a Plan B. For example, for the last few years for August trips, I have roughed out trips in both the southern Sierra (Sequoia Park) and middle Sierra (Yosemite region) and then picked the one at the last minute that was not in the smoke. It's not fair to reserve two permits to do this, but Plan B can start where walk-up permits are generally available - for example, starting in the Emigrant or Hoover Wilderness areas north of Yosemite and then making some big loop(s) into the park.

2) Check with the SEKI wilderness office whether one permit for the entire trip allows you to exit over Kearsarge Pass, resupply, and re-enter. I know that Yosemite park would not allow this - they explicitly state that if you exit the wilderness for any reason other than to immediately cross a road and re-enter, you need a second permit for the re-entry. If you have to get a second permit to re-enter over Kearsarge Pass, that could be difficult. That is one of the most popular trailheads and reservations go fast.

-Phil

[goldberry]

Thanks for the feedback anyone! Both route alternatives seem pretty great to keep in mind, maybe to decide on the fly depending on how we're doing and what looks appealing.

wildhiker - this is a great point. I know fires will be an issue especially this year, but I'd just been planning on crossing my fingers really hard about conditions being good. We're starting August 7 (constrained by work schedules - this is not moveable otherwise we would probably do earlier), and the idea of roughing out a trip maybe up in yosemite is a pretty great idea. Route planning is fun anyway, and it gives me a chance to do it twice .

I had gotten the impression that the Kearsage Pass exit & reentry would be fine, as long as it was < 24 hours. But, good point - I should double check.

[stevet]

If you are comfortable with off trail travel instead of Granite Lakes/Simpson Meadow why not follow the SHR to Marion Lake, the exit Lakes Basin via Cartridge Pass, scale the talus to Bench Lake and then pick up the JMT to head south over Pinchot through Rae Lakes Basin then to Kearsarge. You'll use probably 6 days to get to Onion Valley. Maybe 7 if altitude kicks your butt. East coast trails (e.g. Adirondacks, Long Trail) are similar enough to SHR talus to say altitude is the x-factor to keep in mind. (you might save one day, or half day if you skip Bench Lake).

From Kearsarge it is all good trail to East Lake, and light traffic trail up to Lake Reflection. With an early start from Onion Valley, it is one long day to Lake Reflection (but doable). From there let math determine if you have enough time for your outlined route or should shave some time using thegibs route. Generally speaking, if your Sierra/high altitude experience is limited plan the shorter route and should you have time on your hands explore.

A Copper Creek is a tough entry. Start either before sunrise or after ~6pm when the sun is below the ridgeline horizon. If doing the late afternoon/early evening start Lower Tent Meadow is about 2.5hrs in and your likely first night camp.

[Wandering Daisy]

I somewhat disagree that Copper Creek is that bad if you are in good shape and well acclimated. I did it as the last leg of the SHR after being out 20 days, started at 4:30 AM and got to just under Goat Pass well before dark (farther than if I had gone to Granite Lake). And I was well over 60 years old- you young people should do fine. The trail is VERY well graded and if you just keep chugging at a steady pace it goes by quickly. There are some permit quirks to be able to start early. You will have to check in the day before. Supposedly campground in the area now require reservations. So you will have to coordinate all that.

You could do the SHR to Lakes Basin. From there you can continue over Frozen Lake Pass or over Cartridge Pass (easier). Simpson Meadow is low elevation and is likely to be very hot. However the canyon you walk up is impressive. And the Golden Staircase is really nice, as is Palisade Lakes and Mather Pass.

A route that would take more time, but hits the high points of both options is to do SHR to Lakes Basin, Dumbbell Pass, Amphitheater Pass, drop to Deer Meadow and PCT to Palisades Lake and beyond. This route requires very good off-trail navigation and route finding. Not sure you would have time for it. You have to figure out the mileage and time needed.

If you have done backpacking in Colorado, I suppose you are well aware of your ability and needs for acclimation. The difference in the Sierra is that you start at sea level. I would not go from sea level to Roads End and then next day to Granite Lake. But by August if you have been at altitude a lot, you could be fine. Everyone is different so I really cannot say.

It would be easier to comment if you presented some maps of your route.

[maiathebee]

Agree with Daisy, Copper Creek isn't *that* bad---not too steep anywhere, good footing. It's just long and generally hot, so start early.

I love the middle fork of the Kings and think it's worth doing, though I haven't done the SHR alternative that Mav proposes. MFKR is remote, basically nobody back there since it's so annoying to get to, and super scenic giant valley, granite, swimming holes, waterfalls, just amazing.

60 Lakes Basin is a nice alternative to Rae Lakes but it is no less crowded these days. Last summer I was there and all the lakes near the trail were teeming with people. Only escape was the lakes farther north in the basin. Rae Lakes are so special that I would choose that over 60 Lakes for a Sierra newbie.

[CAMERONM]

I am sorry to hear that 60 Lakes is becoming so crowded, but perhaps should not be surprising since we have all been recommending it for years! While the Rae Lakes are indeed impressive, I have experienced *extremely* aggressive group behavior there where it was helpfully suggested to me that I might be happier camping elsewhere. It is just a bit too close to a trailhead so it invites cityfied quick-trippers who don't want anything spoil their one backpacking trip of the summer, politeness be damned.