TR: Yosemite South Rim Loop
5/11 to 5/16 2021
I sort of messed up reserving my permit, so ended up with a counter-clockwise loop from Tunnel View, with the assumption that Glacier Point Road would not be open. Well, Glacier Road did open limiting my legal camping options. I can say now that this route is MUCH better done clockwise. In the future I will always try to get a LYV camping permit, even if planning on passing by. As it was, having a “pass-through” permit made for one long day, even though LYV campground was nearly empty!
I cannot say this was one of my more successful trips. It was a good test for my equipment (need to adjust and do some repairs) and my abilities (I am getting old!). I can still do long days but it sure wipes me out for the next day. Bottom line, this trip should have been done a few weeks earlier this year. As it was, the drought sapped the freshness out of the scenery. Although not having to wade through water was nice, photos suffered. And being the last weekend before day-use permits for the Valley, it was a zoo!
Trip Statistics:
59.3 miles, 9.9 miles per day
37.7 hours walking, 6.3 hours per day
11,090 feet total elevation gain, 1,848 feet gain per day
Day 1: Tunnel View to Bridalveil Creek plus drive
7.2 miles, 5.5 hours, 3535 feet gain
It was fortunate that I made good time to Big Oak Flat gate because I could NOT get my permit there, even though I said I would pick it up at Big Oak Flat when I called for post-10AM extension. So down to the Valley I went, with a surprise road construction delay, got my permit, had to go through the construction delay again, and up to Tunnel View. I finally got on the trail at 11:30; not bad considering.
I trudged up to Artist Creek, taking no breaks, and got water from the creek, which was flowing low. Meadow Creek was also flowing, but once stepping across on rocks, a huge downed log blocked the trail. I managed to miss the trail and bumbled through a forest floor littered with fallen logs before I bumped into a trail. I suspected, correctly, that it was the trail from Stanford Point to Crocker Point. I went down it a ways to be sure this was the case. Given that I had been to Stanford Point many times, lighting poor for photos, and the water source was barely flowing, I just continued to Crocker Point for some photos, again with poor lighting.
My plan was to camp on Dewey Point, which would be new to me. When I arrived, quite tired, I dropped my pack and went down to check out the water source which I never found; likely dried up. I contemplated walking down the trail to another source, but thankfully decided to take my pack just in case. As it turned out, the little creek I was depending on was dry. So I dropped down to Bridalveil Creek. This part of the trail was in horrible shape, slow going, with giant logs jams across the trail. I ran into a few day-hikers going up to Dewey Point, and a couple with a child backpacking up to Dewey Point nearly 5PM. I hope they figured out where to get water! I sure would have hated to go up that mess of a trail only to be without water.
The campsites at Bridalveil Creek are well established, over used and dirty but I appreciated not having to hunt for a campsite and quick set-up so I could take a nice bucket bath in the creek, which was unusually warm. Two guys came by around 6PM but went on; not sure if they went up towards Dewey (a popular early season campsite when water is there) or took the 1.6 mile trail out to Glacier Point road. Shadows fell early as I cooked dinner and called it a day.
Day 2: Bridalveil Creek to twin bridges above Bunnell Falls
15.7 miles, 10.3 hours, 3425 feet gain
This was one hell of a day! I awoke early in shadows and took down the tent, wiping the mud off the Tyvek ground cloth, washed the handkerchief in the creek and hung it up on a branch, whereupon it immediately froze solid! It really did not feel that cold. The rest of the nights on the trip were relatively warm.
Thankfully the trail up to Taft Point had a few smaller logs down but nothing like the section from Dewey Point to Bridalveil Creek. It was already hot when I arrived 9:15 AM. I stopped for a snack and took a few photos. There were a few hikers lingering; going up the trail to Glacier Point Road the crowds were coming down. The Pohono Trail adds about 500 feet more gain and two years ago that part of the trail was in bad condition. Instead I went up to the road and took the Sentinel Dome Trail which intersects the Pohono Trail at the web-cam station. There were confusing signs and logs across the trail junction. After eating lunch I headed down the trail, was confused, went back up the trail a ways, then decided to just bash though the bushes from the Web Cam station until I was on the Pohono Trail. I did not stop at Glacier Point thinking I could drive up here at the end of the trip.
Walking down Panorama Trail, I decided that I was not going go 2 miles and drop 400 feet to the “legal” campsite on Illilouette Creek just to go back up the next day, and be bored the rest of the day to boot. The trail had many small logs with lethal broken branches, which I snagged my knee, ouch! I reached the bridge at noon, the trail filling up with crowds of day hikers. I got water and ate lunch. The next possible stealth camping was on top of the little dome south of the trail. The water source (a small creek to the east) was dry. But the Panorama Trail views were as amazing as ever.
I dropped to Nevada Falls. No need to linger here because I would be coming by on my return. I reached LYV campground about 3:00, but I had a pass-through permit. Plenty of daylight but not plenty of energy left in me! Fortunately, there was no wading through LYV and the trail had been recently cleared of fallen trees. I slowly trudged on taking several photos of the surreal landscape of burned trees. Yes, you can legally camp 2 miles past LYV campground, but in a mess of charred skinny tree trunks, ready to fall on you, lumpy ground, at horrible brush. But practically, the first camping is 3.7 miles up to the beautiful little meadow at the twin bridges across the Merced River.
I arrived at 6PM and dumped my pack at a wonderful established site with a log bench and table! I immediately dropped my pack, and headed to the river to wash off the sweat from a long and hot day. What a pleasure to cook table-height watching the sun wash across the sheer walls of Bunnell Point and Point 7673 on the granite bench where I would camp the next day. I had this wonderful location all to myself.
TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
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Wandering Daisy
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TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
Day 3: Twin bridges above Bunnell Falls to Tarn north of Point 7673 plus day-hike to Merced Lake
6.8 miles, 5.1 hours, 1715 feet gain
I slept in a bit and had an easy day since the previous day had combined two days of my planned itinerary. Expectedly, I was out of energy. The trail climbs to slabs that water usually runs down early season. This year the gush was a trickle, and I did not have to wade at all. The Merced River still has a good flow and the small waterfalls all the way up to the Bridge at Echo Valley were beautiful as usual. The bridge was high above the water; I have been here when you had to wade through about a foot or more of water just to get onto the bridge. Shortly I reached the Bridge over Echo Creek. I hid my pack behind a rock in the shade, took out the bear can and set it at another location, and headed up to Merced Lake, hauling my wading shoes, which I never used. I met a young couple on the way back. The fellow was fishing- said no luck; the river was just too swift. I told him I saw rises on Merced Lake, but good luck casting from that brush and tree choked shoreline.
Back at my pack I continued up the trail to the small tarn which is like an oasis in a sea of granite. The water was low enough that there was no outflow (this usually cascades down the dome to the little meadow I previously camped). The pond had many ducks and grouse making their thumping sounds. I walked up the slabs and had a hell of a time setting up my tent! It was either soft sand or deep duff that would not hold my stakes. The stiff breeze did not help either. Arriving at 2:15 it was a ridiculous 4:20 before I finally was set up, gathered water and took a bath. I walked around a bit, but lighting was not good for photos. I would delay my exploration of this granite landscape until the next morning. Nevertheless, it is a great place just to sit on the edge of the cliffs and enjoy the open views.
Day 4: Tarn north of Point 7673 to Sunrise Creek at Clouds Rest trail junction + day hike
8 miles, 5.2 hours, 1465 feet gain
I spent an hour on a mile trek on the top taking photos. There is a valley between Point 7673 and my campsite that would be wonderful in a normal May when the little creek ran; now it was dry. I then packed up and continued on the cross trail between Echo Valley and Sunrise Creek. At first you are in a nice forest; there is one creek that had a trickle of water. Then you enter the old burn. The trail had been recently cleared; some of the sawed logs that blocked the trail were over 3 feet thick! But the massive broken branch litter was left on the trail, so waking was difficult.
Shortly before reaching the JMT, I crossed a fair sized creek and crossed on a log. I have never been able to figure this out; the creek is either not on the map or the cross trail is not located correctly on the USGS 7.5 minute map. I have been here before, but I swear the burn was worse. Again, the trail was cleared of logs, but horribly overgrown with hip-high thorny bushes and littered with small round branches that either caught your foot or rolled when stepped on. I would think the JMT would be in better shape; maybe it was not even the JMT, although there was a sign. The burn here was so devastating that it almost made me cry. Shortly before reaching the “Sunrise pass-through” campsites the burn stopped and it was night-and-day, entering the lush unburned forest. Poor Sunrise Creek was horribly low. I crossed and set my pack on an established campsite just off the trail to Clouds Rest. It was early and I did not like the dirty established site, so I decided to check out other possibilities and came back to another established site above Sunrise Creek east of the small creek flowing off Cloud’s Rest. I even had a peek at Half Dome.
Again I had a horrible time setting up my tent due to soft sand or deep duff. I had to move to a compacted established site which was solid but very dirty. Thankfully I had some nice rock slabs nearby to cook on. The manzanita was in bloom but I forgot to take a photo. I took a bath and washed clothes then decided to walk up the Half Dome trail and drop down through brush to a viewpoint right on the edge of the cliffs between Quarter Dome and Half Dome. I had been here before and it is a great location to see all of Tenaya Canyon. I was back at camp by 4:30 and had the luxury of taking a second bath of the day! I was now a day ahead of schedule and pondered if I should take the next day to climb Clouds Rest or go back to the Valley. If I did Clouds Rest, I would be done early enough to have to sit around for the afternoon, mainly because my old knees would not tolerate 5,000 feet of descent in one day. I punted and decided to just see what I thought in the morning.
6.8 miles, 5.1 hours, 1715 feet gain
I slept in a bit and had an easy day since the previous day had combined two days of my planned itinerary. Expectedly, I was out of energy. The trail climbs to slabs that water usually runs down early season. This year the gush was a trickle, and I did not have to wade at all. The Merced River still has a good flow and the small waterfalls all the way up to the Bridge at Echo Valley were beautiful as usual. The bridge was high above the water; I have been here when you had to wade through about a foot or more of water just to get onto the bridge. Shortly I reached the Bridge over Echo Creek. I hid my pack behind a rock in the shade, took out the bear can and set it at another location, and headed up to Merced Lake, hauling my wading shoes, which I never used. I met a young couple on the way back. The fellow was fishing- said no luck; the river was just too swift. I told him I saw rises on Merced Lake, but good luck casting from that brush and tree choked shoreline.
Back at my pack I continued up the trail to the small tarn which is like an oasis in a sea of granite. The water was low enough that there was no outflow (this usually cascades down the dome to the little meadow I previously camped). The pond had many ducks and grouse making their thumping sounds. I walked up the slabs and had a hell of a time setting up my tent! It was either soft sand or deep duff that would not hold my stakes. The stiff breeze did not help either. Arriving at 2:15 it was a ridiculous 4:20 before I finally was set up, gathered water and took a bath. I walked around a bit, but lighting was not good for photos. I would delay my exploration of this granite landscape until the next morning. Nevertheless, it is a great place just to sit on the edge of the cliffs and enjoy the open views.
Day 4: Tarn north of Point 7673 to Sunrise Creek at Clouds Rest trail junction + day hike
8 miles, 5.2 hours, 1465 feet gain
I spent an hour on a mile trek on the top taking photos. There is a valley between Point 7673 and my campsite that would be wonderful in a normal May when the little creek ran; now it was dry. I then packed up and continued on the cross trail between Echo Valley and Sunrise Creek. At first you are in a nice forest; there is one creek that had a trickle of water. Then you enter the old burn. The trail had been recently cleared; some of the sawed logs that blocked the trail were over 3 feet thick! But the massive broken branch litter was left on the trail, so waking was difficult.
Shortly before reaching the JMT, I crossed a fair sized creek and crossed on a log. I have never been able to figure this out; the creek is either not on the map or the cross trail is not located correctly on the USGS 7.5 minute map. I have been here before, but I swear the burn was worse. Again, the trail was cleared of logs, but horribly overgrown with hip-high thorny bushes and littered with small round branches that either caught your foot or rolled when stepped on. I would think the JMT would be in better shape; maybe it was not even the JMT, although there was a sign. The burn here was so devastating that it almost made me cry. Shortly before reaching the “Sunrise pass-through” campsites the burn stopped and it was night-and-day, entering the lush unburned forest. Poor Sunrise Creek was horribly low. I crossed and set my pack on an established campsite just off the trail to Clouds Rest. It was early and I did not like the dirty established site, so I decided to check out other possibilities and came back to another established site above Sunrise Creek east of the small creek flowing off Cloud’s Rest. I even had a peek at Half Dome.
Again I had a horrible time setting up my tent due to soft sand or deep duff. I had to move to a compacted established site which was solid but very dirty. Thankfully I had some nice rock slabs nearby to cook on. The manzanita was in bloom but I forgot to take a photo. I took a bath and washed clothes then decided to walk up the Half Dome trail and drop down through brush to a viewpoint right on the edge of the cliffs between Quarter Dome and Half Dome. I had been here before and it is a great location to see all of Tenaya Canyon. I was back at camp by 4:30 and had the luxury of taking a second bath of the day! I was now a day ahead of schedule and pondered if I should take the next day to climb Clouds Rest or go back to the Valley. If I did Clouds Rest, I would be done early enough to have to sit around for the afternoon, mainly because my old knees would not tolerate 5,000 feet of descent in one day. I punted and decided to just see what I thought in the morning.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
(cont. from day before)
Day 5: Sunrise Creek at Clouds Rest jct. to Backpackers Campground + Valley day-hike
12.3 miles, 6.7 hours, all downhill 3470 feet
Clouds had built up the previous afternoon and were building as I ate breakfast. This was all it took to give me “permission” not to climb Clouds Rest. How is that for rationalizing? I packed up and headed down. If I got to the Mist Trail junction before 9AM it would be OK to go down. Well, I missed the deadline and went down the JMT. I spent some time enjoying the top of Nevada Falls. As it turned out, nobody was paying any attention to the “rules”. But I will admit, that my dislike of the JMT was clouded by the circumstance of the last time I used it, years ago. I fess up-the JMT actually has better photo options and is much lusher when the season becomes dry. It definitely is longer, but I was in no hurry. I did miss the up and close shower one gets on the steps adjacent to Vernal Falls.
From Happy Isles, I took the trail along the river to the “Pines” campgrounds. I do not know why I never saw the sign to this trail before; it is much better than walking the road or going by Curry Village. The fellow at North Pines gate checked my wilderness permit. I set up in campsite #1 and paid my $3 (senior discount). It even sprinkled a few drops. Then I set off on a 5-mile loop to Yosemite Falls. It was crowded, with a massive traffic jam. I was glad I was walking! Back at camp I went upstream a short distance and took a bucket bath and rinsed out my shirt. So what if someone from the bridge could see me. Later, someone told me this is “illegal”, however you can swim in the river. Well, I was doing a short swim. Talked to some nice fellows in the next site and then after a hearty dinner went in my tent at 8PM, put in earplugs and slipped my sleep mask over my eyes, as nearby young campers were up until late night with fire and headlamps shining.
Day 6: Backpackers Campground to Tunnel View and drive home
9 miles, 4.6 hours, 735 elevation gain
My choices this day were not the best. I should have stayed on the North Valley Trail. I went over to Sentinel Bridge thinking it was Swinging Bridge and then walked the road down to Swinging Bridge. It was early morning so not much traffic. As I continued on the south side, incoming traffic really ramped up, and I should have gone back over to the other side.
I did go over to El Capitan Meadow to eat lunch and enjoy the amazing feeling of being between El Capitan and Cathedral Rock with the Merced River flowing by. I then went back South Side Trail and walked right under the base of Cathedral Rock! Construction on the Bridalveil parking lot forced me back on the road. I could have taken Old Glacier Point Road to get away from traffic, but last time I was there road damage made some sections difficult and given the condition of the Pohono Trail, I was worried about more extensive damage. I reached my car about noon and headed home. Amazingly little traffic- everyone was jammed in the upper Valley or eating lunch. The roads home were packed. Tons of motorcycles, RV’s, and seemed like a ton of people going up to Sonora Pass.
Day 5: Sunrise Creek at Clouds Rest jct. to Backpackers Campground + Valley day-hike
12.3 miles, 6.7 hours, all downhill 3470 feet
Clouds had built up the previous afternoon and were building as I ate breakfast. This was all it took to give me “permission” not to climb Clouds Rest. How is that for rationalizing? I packed up and headed down. If I got to the Mist Trail junction before 9AM it would be OK to go down. Well, I missed the deadline and went down the JMT. I spent some time enjoying the top of Nevada Falls. As it turned out, nobody was paying any attention to the “rules”. But I will admit, that my dislike of the JMT was clouded by the circumstance of the last time I used it, years ago. I fess up-the JMT actually has better photo options and is much lusher when the season becomes dry. It definitely is longer, but I was in no hurry. I did miss the up and close shower one gets on the steps adjacent to Vernal Falls.
From Happy Isles, I took the trail along the river to the “Pines” campgrounds. I do not know why I never saw the sign to this trail before; it is much better than walking the road or going by Curry Village. The fellow at North Pines gate checked my wilderness permit. I set up in campsite #1 and paid my $3 (senior discount). It even sprinkled a few drops. Then I set off on a 5-mile loop to Yosemite Falls. It was crowded, with a massive traffic jam. I was glad I was walking! Back at camp I went upstream a short distance and took a bucket bath and rinsed out my shirt. So what if someone from the bridge could see me. Later, someone told me this is “illegal”, however you can swim in the river. Well, I was doing a short swim. Talked to some nice fellows in the next site and then after a hearty dinner went in my tent at 8PM, put in earplugs and slipped my sleep mask over my eyes, as nearby young campers were up until late night with fire and headlamps shining.
Day 6: Backpackers Campground to Tunnel View and drive home
9 miles, 4.6 hours, 735 elevation gain
My choices this day were not the best. I should have stayed on the North Valley Trail. I went over to Sentinel Bridge thinking it was Swinging Bridge and then walked the road down to Swinging Bridge. It was early morning so not much traffic. As I continued on the south side, incoming traffic really ramped up, and I should have gone back over to the other side.
I did go over to El Capitan Meadow to eat lunch and enjoy the amazing feeling of being between El Capitan and Cathedral Rock with the Merced River flowing by. I then went back South Side Trail and walked right under the base of Cathedral Rock! Construction on the Bridalveil parking lot forced me back on the road. I could have taken Old Glacier Point Road to get away from traffic, but last time I was there road damage made some sections difficult and given the condition of the Pohono Trail, I was worried about more extensive damage. I reached my car about noon and headed home. Amazingly little traffic- everyone was jammed in the upper Valley or eating lunch. The roads home were packed. Tons of motorcycles, RV’s, and seemed like a ton of people going up to Sonora Pass.
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maiathebee
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
Seems spring on the trail between Dewey and Bridalveil Creek is just generally horrible recently, even with summer trail crew work. Two years ago when I was there in May (2019) it was downright awful with a lot of snow still and tons and tons of downed trees from a windstorm the previous fall. I wonder if the trees are more apt to being blown down or fall due to cumulative draught. In 2019 I bailed for the road at Taft and hitched back to the Valley, then got a permit to go up Mist Trail towards Merced Lake the next night. So basically climbed all the way up the valley twice in 3 days 
I have thought about camping on the granite slabs near that tarn like you did 3 times. But one time it was low and boggy, so I continued on (was coming down from Clouds Rest) and the other times I was coming the other way (same as you) so I stopped at my favorite campsite on the little connector trail, where I often see bears.
I have thought about camping on the granite slabs near that tarn like you did 3 times. But one time it was low and boggy, so I continued on (was coming down from Clouds Rest) and the other times I was coming the other way (same as you) so I stopped at my favorite campsite on the little connector trail, where I often see bears.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
The current reserved permit system takes away all that flexibility we used to have. Last time I did this route I started from Glacier Point, reversed the upper loop and camp down to the Valley, got a new (free) permit, walked to Stanford Point to camp, then walked back to my car on the Pohono Trail. That works better because I could then drive home that day and not deal with "legal" campsite problems near Glacier Point. Another time I did the Merced Lake loop and came back to the Valley and decided then I would do the North Rim Traverse. Actually walked down from LYV, got permit, walked up Snow Creek trail same day. Now a permit change requires another permit. I am not 100% sure but I do not think you can even walk into the wilderness office and just get a permit now. Even with a reservation, splitting a trip with even stepping foot in the valley (not even camping) requires paying for two permits.
I feel sorry for those who planned trips for today and the next few days. They either had to go out in rain/snow, or pay for a new permit and no refund on the old one. The system stinks.
I should have taken pictures of the horrible trail conditions. I am just not in the habit of taking pictures of ugly stuff.
I feel sorry for those who planned trips for today and the next few days. They either had to go out in rain/snow, or pay for a new permit and no refund on the old one. The system stinks.
I should have taken pictures of the horrible trail conditions. I am just not in the habit of taking pictures of ugly stuff.
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gary c.
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
Even with the changes/permit hassles I'm still jealous. I was at work all week.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
Thanks for reading the report. Due to sheer luck, my next permit for a 6-day trip to Jack Main Canyon is Wed. I fortunately just missed the snow and rain. Supposed to be more "normal" cooler temperatures, but no big storms. I think the new snow will melt by then.
Here are a few photos I forgot to put in.
Here are a few photos I forgot to put in.
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salvilla
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
Wandering Daisy - Do you think Falls Creek @ Wilma Lake will be fordable?
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SweetSierra
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
I enjoyed reading your report. I've been on the Valley View trail twice, once on a day hike with my mother and a backpack from Glacier Point Road. I remember the views along the rim before dipping back into the forest. I enjoyed your photos from the rim and a reminder of how beautiful it is along that trail. I remember some downed trees but nothing like you experienced.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR Yosemite 5-11 to 16 2021
salvilla- I do not plan on crossing Falls Creek or going all the way to Wilma Lake.
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