Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

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rtd4379
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Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by rtd4379 »

I've reserved a permit for Deadman Canyon from Lodgepole for June 24-28. My wife and I are lvl 2.5 hikers - Tons of backpacking trips (of up to 4 days) but nothing off trail more than a mile or so. I'd like to stay on trail for almost this entire trip.

We are planning to hike Deadman Canyon from Lodgepole over 5 days, 4 nights. June 24-28. ~50 miles depending on route options. I'd like to do 9-15 miles per day. We have hiked up to 30 miles and up to 15 miles per day in a trip in Jennie Lakes Wilderness, Belle Canyon, and the Mineral King area but this will be my first trip of 50 miles and over 10k ft. I'd like to share my plans just to make sure I'm prepared.

Day 1
Hike from lodgepole over silliman pass and spend our first night at Ranger Lake ~9 miles

Day 2
Ranger lake to roaring river ranger station for night 2. ~11/12 miles

Day 3
Roaring river to Big bird lake (or the surrounding area) Depending on how my wife feels we will decide if we want to make the hike to Big Bird. We will spend night 3 where we choose to stop. Hiking to big bird would be our only planned off trail travel.

Day 4
Climb Elizabeth pass, spend night 4 at bearpaw meadow ~8 miles

Day 5
Bearpaw Meadow to the trailhead via HST and Panther Gap. If we are feeling good we may return through Giant Forest adding 3 miles. ~13-16 miles

My main concern will be the snow level at this time of year at Elizabeth pass. I have a few trips experience backpacking in snow but nowhere where it is dangerous. Due to the dry year I'm hoping the snow will be manageable.

Are there any water crossings to be particularly wary of?

Any thoughts on other aspects of my plans? Advice is greatly appreciated. Deadman canyon was a favorite of my late grandfather who hiked the area in the 60's and I'm hoping to recreate some of his pictures on this trip.
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frozenintime
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by frozenintime »

bearpaw is not a great spot.

if timing made any sense at all i'd greatly recommend tamarack lake, though that might be an untenably long last day.

if not, buck creek is quite nice and only a couple miles beyond bearpaw. buck creek could technically fill up, though, i suppose?
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by Wandering Daisy »

I thought that if you carry a bear can, you are not required to only camp at the established campsites. Bearpaw is not a great place.

Which route are you taking - the trail down to the HST or the "high trail" to Bearpaw? The crossing if you take the trail to the Hamilton Lake trail junction can be difficult at the trail and the trail down to the HST was overgrown and hard to follow when I did it years ago (maybe better now). You can go upstream a ways and cross through a swamp - miserable but safer if the water at the trail is too swift. If you take the high trail you eliminate that crossing.

What about camping near the crossing on the Elizabeth Lake side and then day-hiking up to Tamarack Lake?

Buck Creek is nice. Limited sites near the bear boxes. Not sure it is legal, but I have just set my sleeping bag out on a huge flat rock downstream from the bridge, once I crossed the bridge. I think you could find a site upstream of the bridge too. A lot more possibilities if you can carry some water, or cook dinner near Bearpaw Sierra High Camp, and then walk a bit to camp away from water.

I have been over Elizabeth Pass when there was snow, but have hazy memory of it. I recall some relatively steep snow. You may have to wade across the creek that comes from Lonely Lake. I recall (but hazy memory) nice campsites there.

Even though it is more miles to go out to Crescent Meadow, it is about the same time. You have to go up quite a ways to go out to Wolverton. You may have to wade some of the streams (Mehrten in particular) if you go out to Crescent. Check to make sure they are running shuttle busses if you go out Crescent and get a schedule. I am not sure when the busses quite running in the evening (if they are running).
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by grampy »

I suggest on your Day2, that you take the (very short) detour to see Lost Lake, just after leaving Ranger Lake.

If you don’t have time/energy to reach Big Bird Lake, there are some very nice camp sites in Upper Ranger Meadow just west of the trail about when it reaches the 9200’ elevation contour. And you’d be set up do a short trip (sans pack) to Big Bird, either that afternoon or the next morning.

to amplify on what Wandering Daisy said-
going out to end at Wolverton wont’t save you significant mileage, but it WILL save you a shuttle ride. One shuttle required to get from Wolverton to Lodgepole - or just do a 2.0 mile trail walk). Ending at Crescent Meadow needs TWO shuttle rides to get to Lodgepole.

When I did this trip, the campsites at Buck Creek (maybe 3 total ?) were full up, so I camped at Nine Mile Creek.
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by rtd4379 »

Wandering Daisy wrote: Mon May 10, 2021 8:43 pm I thought that if you carry a bear can, you are not required to only camp at the established campsites. Bearpaw is not a great place.

Which route are you taking - the trail down to the HST or the "high trail" to Bearpaw? The crossing if you take the trail to the Hamilton Lake trail junction can be difficult at the trail and the trail down to the HST was overgrown and hard to follow when I did it years ago (maybe better now). You can go upstream a ways and cross through a swamp - miserable but safer if the water at the trail is too swift. If you take the high trail you eliminate that crossing.
As far as I know you may camp anywhere with a cannister as long as it is past the minimum distance from the trailhead they require. We will both be carrying cannisters. I'm not attached at all to any particular camp, I just want to have a backup plan of established sites. We most likely will change plans somewhere in the hike, it's just for peace of mind.

We will be going the high route to bearpaw.

I'd love to visit Tamarack Lake but I'm having a hard time fitting it into our plans without making one day seem excruciatingly long, unless I'm missing something. No problem, I live close to Sequoia so getting back up to do it some other time is an inevitability.
grampy wrote: Mon May 10, 2021 9:16 pm I suggest on your Day2, that you take the (very short) detour to see Lost Lake, just after leaving Ranger Lake.

If you don’t have time/energy to reach Big Bird Lake, there are some very nice camp sites in Upper Ranger Meadow just west of the trail about when it reaches the 9200’ elevation contour. And you’d be set up do a short trip (sans pack) to Big Bird, either that afternoon or the next morning.

to amplify on what Wandering Daisy said-
going out to end at Wolverton wont’t save you significant mileage, but it WILL save you a shuttle ride. One shuttle required to get from Wolverton to Lodgepole - or just do a 2.0 mile trail walk). Ending at Crescent Meadow needs TWO shuttle rides to get to Lodgepole.

When I did this trip, the campsites at Buck Creek (maybe 3 total ?) were full up, so I camped at Nine Mile Creek.
We probably will stop by lost lake. We skipped it last year in Belle Canyon and it's been eating at me.

I'd prefer to finish up walking through Giant Forest despite the extra length, I love Sequoias and they'd be the perfect way to cap off the trip. You're also right in that it isn't as much elevation which is a plus. It's all up to my wife really when we get to that point in the trail. We will be avoiding shuttles by doing to trail walk back to Lodgepole.

I appreciate the replies, I'll definitely skip bearpaw meadow and camp at one of the creeks beyond
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by sekihiker »

I've been on the HST dozens of times and stayed in Bearpaw Meadow two or three times. It's not THAT bad. I've managed to enjoy each stay. The only downside in my opinion is the lack of view. You can take care of that by wandering over to the Bearpaw High Sierra Camp. If you don't make a nuisance of yourself, nobody will give you a hard time. In the 1990's, I actually visited with their staff often enough that we became acquainted.
It's unclear from the SEKI website if the ranger station is still open. I used to hang around there and talk to the ranger when he/she was in. I tried to call SEKI for more information about the ranger station but they were only replying to requests for information within 48 to 72 hours, so I gave up.
I'm sure someone on the forum knows if the Bearpaw Meadow Ranger station is still open.
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by GGC23 »

Re: snow, I did a trip over Elizabeth Pass in mid-June of 2013 (I think...my memory is hazy that far back). But I do generally remember that whatever year I hiked it had snow conditions pretty similar to this year. So if had to guess based on past experience, I'd say that you'll probably be fine when it comes to snow. I remember about a quarter mile of snow on the east side of the pass, but it was easy walking and not the slightest bit technical or scary. Based on your projected itinerary, even if your experience is nothing like mine, you should be helped by the fact that the snow will have had a chance to soften by the time you get there.

If you're concerned about conditions on Elizabeth Pass, what about doing something like cutting Big Bird Lake out of your intinerary and taking a side trip to Tamarack Lake instead, which comes up after you cross the pass? That would set you up so that you hit Elizabeth Pass sooner, and if you didn't feel comfortable crossing the pass, you could turn around and still make it home in time. I don't say this to discourage you from your planned route (personally, I think you'll be just fine), but I know how anxiety over a certain pass, creek crossing, etc. can ruin a trip. I always try to put anything that I'm concerned about less than 50% of the way through the trip so that I can be confident in my ability to turn aroun without being delayed or hungry.
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by thegib »

Big Bird lake is very pretty, well worth the visit. It'd be a great place to hang out. It's got some level granite fingers that reach into the water that are perfect for lounging on or jumping off. My partner, who disdains large lakes, was surprised how much she liked BB. The cross country to get there is straight-forward. Your route seems reasonable to me. I agree w/others, try to skip Bearpaw "Meadow" as a camp spot. It's a deep dust slope with only a trickle of water.
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by frozenintime »

“ My partner, who disdains large lakes...”

i feel like we are going to need more info on this dubious opinion! :)
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Re: Planning to hike Deadman Canyon at the end of June - Questions and seeking advice

Post by c9h13no3 »

frozenintime wrote: Tue May 11, 2021 7:04 pm “ My partner, who disdains large lakes...”
Parents died in a horrible weed whacker accident next to Lake Superior... obviously.
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