Rae Lakes or Florence to Evolution Valley

[Ultrajen]

Hello

My son and I do a backpacking trip every summer. He’s leaving for college in September so this is a special one. I wanted to do Rae Lakes in Group in July but could only get a permit for mid June. I’ve done that trip before but he has not it was beautiful and obviously on everyone’s top five list. I know it’s a low snow year but I’m still wondering about those rivers mid June. My plan has been to get a second permit for Florence late to evolution valley for July but the trip reports I find don’t have great pictures. People say it’s really beautiful at least in the trip report I can find it doesn’t look like it compares. Can anyone compare them in difficulty and beauty? Also maybe comment on the rivers through the Rae Lakes loop in mid June?

[narc1370]

We hiked Florence to Evolution Valley last year. It's a great trip with amazing scenery. For the first couple days, you gain elevation very gradually. In fact, I would argue that the steepest stretch is the first quarter mile once you get off the boat. There are plenty of great campsites along the route, many with awesome swimming holes and rocks to jump off, and Muir Trail Ranch is a great stop to meet and talk to thru hikers. The climb to Evolution Valley is special. Every other switchback you get to look back at the valley you climbed, and as you get higher up the wall, the river literally looks like something manmade. It's hard to believe this is natural. We camped at Mcclure Meadows. I know it is popular and gets a lot of traffic, but we camped in a pretty established site along Evolution Creek and had solitude enough that we were able to skinny dip, and enjoy the evening without seeing anyone close by. The view is magical and if you are as mesmerized by the sierra granite and topography as I am, it is a bucket list trip (but so is Rae Lake). You can make good miles on the way back down to Florence. You just have to time the boat ferry or you are going to either be waiting up to an hour or hiking around the lake.

[Jim F]

Hi Ultrajen,

Both these outings are awesome. I first did the Rae Lakes Loop in 1957 and the hike from Florence Lake to Evolution Vally/Basin in 1961.Have been drawn back to them again many times since and am ready to return again this year.

As far a permits go, there are currently 2 permits on rec.gov waiting for you and your son on July 26 from the Lamarck Lakes approach to Evolution Basin (via Darwin Canyon). This well documented approach (some cross county involved) can also take you out over Bishop Pass for an abbreviated North Lake /South Lake Loop. Getting to the TH is an easy drive and the scenery is superb the entire outing.

Currently, there are also available permit reservations for the Lamarck Lakes TH in the first week of September, but by then your son will be off to college. How exciting!

No matter what you do, things will work out with the permits. I just view the process as an academic exercise and test of determination.

Jim

[Wandering Daisy]

Depends if you are happy with repeating miles; I prefer loops. Neither will give much solitude, fine if the social aspect of backpacking appeals to you. Both, in my opinion, are better done shoulder seasons, when less crowded. PCT hikers come in a surge, June-July; JMT hikers are a steady stream all season. Both experiences can be enhanced by moving away from the established campsites. Evolution Valley has a major steam ford; Rae Lakes loop had some bridges out but they may now be fixed.

I feel Rae Lakes Loop offers more scenery for the mileage but is more crowded. The hike into Muir Ranch is not very scenic and Muir Ranch is, in my opinion, an over used undesirable place to camp, but not need to stay there. Just stopping at Evolution Valley deletes the best part- at least do a day-hike up to Evolution and Sapphire Lakes or Darwin Bench as suggested.

The road into Florence Lake is not easy and time consuming and not particularly scenic. The fires last year may have burned along the road into Florence Lake. You may want to get some information about that. The boat ferry is fairly expensive. The road down to Cedar Grove is at least paved with lots of nice campgrounds for the night before, and Kings Canyon itself is very spectacular.

I think, however, it will boil down to where you can get a permit.

I would disagree that going in via Lemark Col is a great idea for a short trip. There is a major elevation gain (OK if you are in shape for it- but some hikers do get altitude sick from it) and the off-trail travel is not horrible, but not trivial either. It definitely is more spectacular. Since you did not specify your experience level, hard to say. But since you are asking about two trips on major maintained trails, it seems counterintuitive to consider Lemark Col route.

[Ultrajen]

I already have a permit for Ray Lakes June 14 entry I just was worried it might be too early in the season.

[Ultrajen]

I have done the real Lakes loop that my son has not. It’s always on everyone’s top three in the era list so he thought it was something he should do as long as it’s OK mid June. I would definitely consider Evolution Valley from the east side I just want the best scenery and 4 days. I’ve done some trips from Southlake but not north.

[Wandering Daisy]

The way the winter snows are going, June 15 probably will be OK, as long as you do not mind some snow travel over Glenn Pass. But the PCT hikers should have put a good path in the snow. Most of Rae Lakes loop is actually at fairly low elevations. Do check on the bridge just below the Muro Blanco- it was washed out a few years ago. That crossing can be very difficult if the bridge is still out. I have been up to Paradise Valley Memorial weekend- before the bridge was built- we had to cross a log to go up to Castle Domes- did fine AM but coming back PM, water flowing over the log. Still plan on plenty of wading across creeks and take trekking poles. Micro spikes would also be useful both for snow and walking slippery logs. But by mid-June peak water flows should be done with and only issue would be snow up at Rae Lakes itself and Glenn Pass. Should be before peak mosquitoes, so I really think it is a GOOD time to do the route.

[grampy]

https://www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/ ... s-loop.htm

The NPS web page on the Rae Lakes Loop has not been updated regarding status of a replacement bridge over the Kings River (south fork, near Upper Paradise Valley). If construction hadn’t already started last fall, there isn’t any real chance it will be replaced by late June.
So, the river needs to be fordable by your trip date, if you are doing the traditional loop.

[mkbgdns]

given your timeline--4 days (3 nights?), the loop seems like a better bet than out-and-back from Florence. an early trip where snow was underestimated (I've made that error a few times) just turns into a different adventure. barring an Atmospheric River event (this week's precipitation not in that category), you'll be looking at a 40% snowpack in the King's drainage. you're both young, and will handle the Upper Paradise crossing and Glen Pass OK. of course, it ain't over 'till its over, and I've seen a few Miracle Marches.

since your trailhead is fixed, be aware that if you're going counterclockwise (Bubbs), you won't have the choice to turn back at the crossing. Woods will let you test the crossing early, and still turn back if Glen is not to your liking. an out-and-back to Rae Lakes--not a bad gift to your college-bound son.

a mid-June trip offers the possibility for being up there at a perfect time--but you've got to be flexible, and able to let go of Plan A.

[Wandering Daisy]

https://www.cnrfc.noaa.gov/awipsProducts/RNOHFSSPK.php

This website is the peak 1-day snowmelt forecast for 2021, KAF volume and date of peak one-day flow. It is designed for valley flood control, but still can be useful for our purposes. The last column is the maximum predicted if we get more snow than expected in the next few months- the middle column is the probable, the first column is the minimum if we get much less snow than expected.

Kings River is flow for Pine Flat Reservoir, but does reflect upstream flow. It shows the "probable" peak flow as 5/13 and the maximum (if there is a big March Miracle) is 6/03.

Compare to Happy Isles for the Merced River, a high mountain streamflow, even though it is not for the southern Sierra. It shows probable peak day flow at 6/19 and at the later date if there is a big influx of snow, as 6/8.

All the monitor sites are similar- probable peak flows in mid-May, and early June if we happen to get a big March Miracle (low probability). It is a forecast but is based on a lot of data such as historical flows, long term weather reports, etc.

You can also just watch the daily flows of the Merced at Happy Isles and see when it peaks. By June, unless there is a big rain, which is not likely, peak flows are due to the snowmelt. It looks to me like you should be OK if things go as expected. You may want to look at this again after April 1 when DWR does its end of season snow evaluation.

Not sure if this helps but it is interesting to look at.