Trail options to Whitney

[bobby49]

Day 1: up Shepherd Pass and west to the JMT.
Day 2: south on the JMT to Crabtree Camp.
Day 3: up and down Whitney, back to Crabtree Camp.
Day 4: north on the JMT and east over Shepherd Pass part way.
Day 5: finish down Shepherd Pass.

[Wandering Daisy]

In and out via Shepherd Pass, to me, is a long, grueling, hot slog to climb Whitney with way too many repeat miles. I would only do it if I could get a Whitney Zone exit permit.

At least with Cottonwood, you have Cottonwood and New Army passes to go either in or out for less repeat miles. Again, better to get a Whitney Zone exit.

[bobby49]

"a long, grueling, hot slog"

Not so bad if you start at 3 a.m.

[BigTubs]

Cottonwood Pass with a Whitney exit or loop back is a good option. Not a ton of up and down, and you could get to Guitar Lake or the tarns above in 3-4 days without it being too grueling. If you do go that way, I suggest taking the slight detour up to Rock Creek as there’s a ton of water sources that way.

FYI, I had food stolen from the bear bin at the Horseshoe Meadow campground by the trailhead, and talked to someone else who had food stolen from the bear box at Crabtree. That was a first for me and thoroughly depressing. Whitney combined with the PCTers is a bit of a s**t show.

[creekfeet]

Given that you've done Whitney before, I feel like a west side entry is the way to go, since this makes it more about the journey than the destination. Taking a buddy to the highest point in the lower 48 is definitely a great experience and feeling of accomplishment, but in terms of a true backcountry experience, the whole Whitney Zone is kind of an overcrowded s**tshow (sometimes all too literally). But heading in from a west side trailhead, you should get plenty of days of solitude.

Sugarloaf Valley is a hot, dusty slog, but it's ruthlessly efficient with no major climbs until you start ascending Colby Pass. The problem is the trail also isn't terribly scenic until this climb begins. From Colby Lake over the pass and into the drainage of the Kern-Kaweah River is some of the most beautiful country on God's green Earth, although the trail is poorly maintained and may be significantly overgrown in the lower reaches.

Twin Lakes is a more scenic approach to Roaring River that takes you past numerous inviting lakes, but you'll gain a lot of elevation only to lose it again as you descend towards the ranger station.

Is there a particular reason you aren't considering the High Sierra Trail? If it's a permit issue, I've never found permits for really any west side SEKI trailhead to be an issue if you go early on a weekday. The trail is utterly spectacular with gorgeous vistas, meadows, lakes, and even hot springs. It's about identical in length to the Twin Lakes route, granted with larger swings in elevation. But if you want to showcase the Sierra in all it's glory to a good pal, this is a great option.

[evolving]

For those mentioning the overcrowding s**tshow starting at Cottonwood Pass or Lakes, would Onion Valley be preferable? I see that it's very popular and looks like it would be a day shorter. Thanks

[Wandering Daisy]

All the popular east-side trailheads are crowded. Onion Valley can be as much of a zoo as Cottonwood. Timing also counts- once PCT hikers are gone it is less crowded. I would not choose a trailhead based on crowds. The PCT is commonly crowded. Just camp a good distance off-trail. If you have off-trail experience, you can stay off the PCT almost entirely by going over New Army Pass, Miter Basin, Crabtree Lakes, to Timberline Lake all off-trail. I would try to get a Whitney exit permit. Whitney Portal-Cottonwood shuttles are available, as is fair success at hitching back to Cottonwood. There is a store/cafe at Whitney Portal so no need to starve if you cannot get an immediate ride.

Rank your preferred trailheads and routes, then work on getting a permit for your first choice, keeping an eye on your other choices. You can stay picky a month or more out, but a few weeks before your trip, nab a permit that is available. A solo backpacker has a good chance at getting a last-minute permit, less so proportional to group size.

I doubt Onion Valley would be a day shorter. There are no major passes to go over from Cottonwood (unless you do New Army Pass). There is a lot more elevation gain (two passes) from Onion Valley and Forrester Pass is not safe in afternoon thunderstorms.

[texan]

I agree with WD that Shepherd Pass is long and grueling way to go. She is also right right that all east-side trailheads are crowded. If it was me since I like to fish, I would go to over New Army Pass, Miter Basin(fish Sky Blue Lake),go over Crabtree Pass(fish Crabtree Lakes), camp at Guitar lake, then over Trail Crest, leave pack there, climb Whitney and then out Whitney Portal. But you can only do that if you get a exit permit for Whitney Portal. Good Luck.

Texan