Trail options to Whitney

[evolving]

Hi folks. New here and looking for advice.

I did Bubbs Creek to Whitney in a group of 5 back in 2007 and have been trying to do it again with a friend with lots of mountain climbing experience. I'm coming from Tucson, he's in New Hampshire.

We're looking at 5-6 days on the trail between July 14 to 27 and here's what's on the table:

1. Bubbs Creek entry was the first choice and a route I have experience with. Unfortunatley 180 is still closed and unable to get permits. We could wait and see if it opens, but don't feel very comfortable with this given my buddy is flying in from the NE.

2. Sugar Loaf, JO Pass, Belle Canyon off Big Meadows Road. Permits available, any of these would be longer than starting at Bubbs Creek.

3. Twin Lakes, Alta from Lodgpole campground. Permits available, longer yet

4. Entry from Inyo. Unfortunately, only walkup available now.

Questions:

NPS estimates June opening for 180, Caltrans gives fall 2024 for completion of roadwork. Any thoughts on timeline for 180 opening?34

Any thoughts on options 2-4 routes?

Of the entries on the eastside from Inyo, any experience getting walk up permits, how likely would it be mid to late July? I understand you have to get an exit permit, too, not sure how that works

I have the shuttle services from the NPS site and if we enter Sequoia/Kings, we'd need a ride back from Whitney Portal. It's only two of us so expect it would be costly getting back if we enter on the west side. Any recommendations?

Thanks!

[stevet]

No need to abandon Inyo entry points because of "walk up" permits. These now become available on rec.gov 2 week prior to your entry date. Just plan your morning, be logged in when rec.gov "opens", and grab your permit. Since this change I've never been snubbed and have gotten any trailhead I wanted.

Onion Valley to Whitney or Cottonwood (if you can't get a Whitney trail exit), or vice-versa are both good options. Day hike to Whitney summit if no exit. If you can get a Whitney exit then the Onion Valley start gives option to explore the Upper Kern, the opposite start gives option to visit enjoy an easy-ish first day to Cottonwood Lakes, a Longley summit, and or visit to Miter Basin to name a few.

[Flamingo]

Any thoughts on options 2-4 routes?

You may benefit from reading about the damage to Whitney Portal Road (link), which may not be repaired until October 2024. This could impact your choice of exit trailhead.

If you start from Sugar Loaf, JO Pass, Belle Canyon, or Twin Lakes. . . I imagine you'd probably cross over Colby Pass to join the High Sierra Trail at Junction Meadow in Kern Canyon. This is a beautiful route, especially through the Kern-Kaweah River and Gallats Lake area. However, as you mentioned, this would require an east-west car shuttle. . .

Car Shuttle: It sounds like your time may be limited. . . do you want to spend an entire day completing the east-west car shuttle? Or would you rather enjoy that extra day in the wilderness?

Other Trailheads: As @stevet suggested, have you considered exiting (or entering) at Cottonwood Lakes or Cottonwood Pass? (Both in Inyo). Having climbed Whitney several times, I think my favorite way is to day-hike it from Guitar Lake, rather than using Whitney Portal. Anyway... if you use Cottonwood, both trailheads have relatively large quotas, I think you have high chances of of scoring "walk-in" permits 2 weeks prior on Recreation.gov.

[Wandering Daisy]

The Inyo web site says the road is open to 200yards from the trailhead. The trailhead campground will also be open- just may have to walk a bit more.

The bigger issue is if the Roads End (Bubbs Creek) trailhead would be open.

From Cottonwood, New Army Pass may still have a cornice blocking the trail. There is a work-around that I have used (early Aug 2019). A permit for Cottonwood Pass would be a sure bet. On the other hand, with a cornice permits for New Army pass may be easier to get. You could do a side-trip to Sky Blue Lake, or even go over Crabtree Pass, if your friend is a good mountaineer.

Kearsarge to Whitney may also have snow problems on Forrester Pass early to mid-July. I prefer the Cottonwood trailhead.

[Wandering Daisy]

Here is the trip report that I did in 2019. It may give you some ideas.

viewtopic.php?p=150387#p150387

[evolving]

These now become available on rec.gov 2 week prior to your entry date. Just plan your morning, be logged in when rec.gov "opens", and grab your permit. Since this change I've never been snubbed and have gotten any trailhead I wanted.

This is very helpful, I'd heared elsewhere premits might open up 2 weeks prior and you've confirmed for me. Thanks

[evolving]

Here is the trip report that I did in 2019. It may give you some ideas.

viewtopic.php?p=150387#p150387

Wow, that's quite a trek. I wish we had the time!

[evolving]

Other Trailheads: As @stevet suggested, have you considered exiting (or entering) at Cottonwood Lakes or Cottonwood Pass?

I'm hearing a lot of good things about Cottonwood Lakes. Someone suggested that Cottonwood Pass has more elevation gain and takes longer. I need to figure how many days it would take for each.

[Wandering Daisy]

Cottonwood Pass diverts around Cottonwood Lakes and has LESS elevation gain (but may be a bit longer) than New Army Pass, which is accessed from Cottonwood Lakes. There also is an "Old Army Pass" that is the shortest, and least elevation gain, but is not maintained so is harder. And there is another no-quota pass near Cottonwood Pass that only allows you to go south. It is confusing. New Army Pass is more scenic, but if short on time, Cottonwood Pass may be a better choice.

Cottonwood Pass is easy and used by PCT hikers, so can be harder to get a permit during the surge of PCT hikers. Theoretically a PCT hiker who stays out overnight has to get a permit to re-enter. Practically I do not know how many of the PCT hikers actually do this. Hard to say exactly when the PCT surge will happen this year.

[sparky]

new army pass->miter basin->crabtree pass->discovery pass-> whitney summit->back to car