Day 1, August 8, 2023 - Elkhart Trail Head to the Highline Trail
We left Elkhart trail head at around 9 a.m., at the same time as about five other large groups. We played leapfrog with the groups as everybody needed to stop and take off layers of clothing on the continuous up hill trail. There were many day hikers.
We passed two backcountry rangers on their way out. They had been working in the backcountry for the past eight days. One ranger was female, and the other was male. They both looked very fit. They gave us a little talk about using the “Bearmuda Triangle” for camping, cooking, and food storage.
The day started out partly cloudy. Along the way, we met a friendly group of hikers from Washington, D.C. and enjoyed talking with them. We stopped at Barbara Lake with the D.C. group and enjoyed a long water and snack break with them. The D.C. group was planning to summit Fremont Peak.
The trail was busy throughout the day, with people coming and going. We met several southbound CDT hikers. Steady rain started to fall at around 2 p.m. We were not happy to be hiking in the rain again. The trail was very muddy. The rain continued as we climbed the long hill toward Seneca Lake. Finally, the rain stopped, and we found a flat, grassy campsite on the Highline trail, near its junction with the trail to Island Lake. We set up camp just in time for another rain shower.
We started dinner at about 6 p.m., and while were waiting for our meal to rehydrate, we had a fun chat with a CDT flip flopper (trail name “Rock”). He was looking for any food he could get, as he was getting low on food. Compass was gracious and gave him a bar and a nut butter packet. We could not really spare more, since our trip was just beginning.
Sunset on the nearby peaks was very scenic. Marmots, pika, and golden-mantled ground squirrels were active nearby. It was cold during the night.
Rainy Day at Seneca Lake
Day 2, August 9, 2023 – Highline Trail to Indian Basin
We woke to a frosty, damp tent. The grass was wet from heavy dew. We put on our Sealskins socks to keep our feet dry and warm while we packed up camp and cooked breakfast. On our way out of camp, we met another High Sierra Topix member, pylepacker. He said that he lived in CA and hiked often in the John Muir Wilderness with his dog. It was nice to meet you, @pylepacker.
We made our way to Island Lake. I was feeling slow today, so we plodded along toward Indian Pass. A couple of hikers told us that they had just been up to Indian Pass and did not see snow at the top of Indian Pass. Mmmm, that did not seem right, but we thanked them for the information.
We continued into Indian Basin and were happy to find a flat, slightly wind-protected campsite at 11,000 feet. We wanted to camp high to get an early start over Indian Pass. We were worried about afternoon storms. We were early to dinner and early to bed. The wind was not too bad during the night.
Indian Basin
Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023, Elkhart Loop
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arkheel
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Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023, Elkhart Loop
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Last edited by arkheel on Wed Feb 14, 2024 3:37 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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arkheel
- Topix Acquainted
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- Joined: Fri May 26, 2017 5:51 am
- Experience: Level 3 Backpacker
- Location: Central North Carolina
Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023 Elkhart Loop
Day 3, August 10, 2023 – Indian Basin to Knifepoint Creek
We were up and over Indian Pass by about 10:30 a.m. It really was a beautiful day. Clouds came and went, but the good weather held. However, the wind was strong enough to shove us around, making us concerned about being pushed over while descending the glacier. When we topped the pass and started to descend, we immediately came to large snowfields. We got a look at Knifepoint Glacier, and it did not look like we thought it would look. Extensive melting had left the toe of the glacier very, very steep, and icy. The middle part of the glacier was almost entirely covered by snow, except for a ribbon of blue glacial ice well to the east.
We watched another group come up from the east and cross the ribbon of ice. We thought that seemed doable. We strapped on our micro spikes and walked over the snow to the glacial ice, intersecting it at its lowest angled area. I stepped onto the ice and immediately decided that I did not want to be on it with just micro spikes and no ice axe. The ice was firm and my micro spikes barely held on. We walked back across the snow, angling north and west until we got to the very young, unstable moraine bordering the lower west side of the glacier. The toe of the glacier was very steep. We decided we would rather be on the moraine. Another group coming up had made the same decision, and they were traveling on the moraine rather than the steep snow and ice.
The lateral moraine was very fluid, but we moved cautiously and finally made our way down and got below the elevation of the glacier. Phew, we were very glad to be down safely. We made mental notes, to never, ever come this way again.
We spent the next couple of hours navigating big talus and young moraine left by the rapidly receding glacier. We crossed ridges of refrigerator and larger sized talus. It was slow, tiring going. We stayed focused. It was very windy. We crossed icy Knifepoint Creek. We arrived near the junction of the route to Glacier Panorama and Knifepoint Creek. We had hoped to make if farther today, but it was getting late. I started to look for a tent site while Compass went over to a small creek to filter water. The ground was a bit swampy, and the bottoms of my shoes were wet. I stepped up on an angled slab of rock and the next thing I knew, I was on the ground. I stood up and knew instantly that my right arm and shoulder were injured. My hand was tingling, and my shoulder felt odd and painful. Uh oh.
Compass returned, and I explained what had happened. We thought, how bad is this? How will we get out of here? My right arm was not functional. We managed to set up the tent. We managed to cook dinner. I took two ibuprofen, and we went to bed. The uncertainty of what was to come made sleep difficult.
Looking Down at Knifepoint Glacier From Just Below Indian Pass
Looking Up at Knifepoint Glacier From Moraine Hell
Day 4, August 11, 2023 – Knifepoint Creek to Shangri-La Lake 10,743 (Onion Lake)
The next morning, we slept in. My right arm did not seem worse. I took another ibuprofen. We made breakfast and watched three people on Skurka’s High Route make their way past us and move up the next hill towards Glacier Panorama. We had hoped to go to Glacier Panorama, but that was not to be on this trip. Because of my arm/shoulder injury, we were just going to cautiously hike back to our car. Going back over Knifepoint Glacier was not an option, so we packed up and hiked east towards Shangri-la Lakes. The view into North Fork of Bull Lake Creek was impressive! We wondered how many grizzly bears might be down in the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek valley.
It turned out that my shoulder was achy, but not terribly achy. I could not really use my right trekking pole. We waded Knifepoint Creek, followed elk tracks up a hill and spent most of the day walking along contour above the shores of the spectacularly blue Shangri-La Lakes. We saw a hummingbird. It was a sunny, breezy day, and we somehow managed to enjoy ourselves, despite the uncertainty of my injury.
We arrived at a decent tent site near Lake 10,743 at about 3 p.m., but the sun was so intense that we waited until later in the day to set up the tent. We had time to clean up a bit. We snacked and looked at the mountains and lake. From camp, we visually scouted the route up to Goat Friendly Pass via Goat Packers Bench. The cloudless day ended with a scenic sunset. It was starry, cold, and windy during the night. My shoulder seemed to be a little better.
View Into North Fork of Bull Lake Creek
One of the Shangri-La Lakes, Gentian Lake
We were up and over Indian Pass by about 10:30 a.m. It really was a beautiful day. Clouds came and went, but the good weather held. However, the wind was strong enough to shove us around, making us concerned about being pushed over while descending the glacier. When we topped the pass and started to descend, we immediately came to large snowfields. We got a look at Knifepoint Glacier, and it did not look like we thought it would look. Extensive melting had left the toe of the glacier very, very steep, and icy. The middle part of the glacier was almost entirely covered by snow, except for a ribbon of blue glacial ice well to the east.
We watched another group come up from the east and cross the ribbon of ice. We thought that seemed doable. We strapped on our micro spikes and walked over the snow to the glacial ice, intersecting it at its lowest angled area. I stepped onto the ice and immediately decided that I did not want to be on it with just micro spikes and no ice axe. The ice was firm and my micro spikes barely held on. We walked back across the snow, angling north and west until we got to the very young, unstable moraine bordering the lower west side of the glacier. The toe of the glacier was very steep. We decided we would rather be on the moraine. Another group coming up had made the same decision, and they were traveling on the moraine rather than the steep snow and ice.
The lateral moraine was very fluid, but we moved cautiously and finally made our way down and got below the elevation of the glacier. Phew, we were very glad to be down safely. We made mental notes, to never, ever come this way again.
We spent the next couple of hours navigating big talus and young moraine left by the rapidly receding glacier. We crossed ridges of refrigerator and larger sized talus. It was slow, tiring going. We stayed focused. It was very windy. We crossed icy Knifepoint Creek. We arrived near the junction of the route to Glacier Panorama and Knifepoint Creek. We had hoped to make if farther today, but it was getting late. I started to look for a tent site while Compass went over to a small creek to filter water. The ground was a bit swampy, and the bottoms of my shoes were wet. I stepped up on an angled slab of rock and the next thing I knew, I was on the ground. I stood up and knew instantly that my right arm and shoulder were injured. My hand was tingling, and my shoulder felt odd and painful. Uh oh.
Compass returned, and I explained what had happened. We thought, how bad is this? How will we get out of here? My right arm was not functional. We managed to set up the tent. We managed to cook dinner. I took two ibuprofen, and we went to bed. The uncertainty of what was to come made sleep difficult.
Looking Down at Knifepoint Glacier From Just Below Indian Pass
Looking Up at Knifepoint Glacier From Moraine Hell
Day 4, August 11, 2023 – Knifepoint Creek to Shangri-La Lake 10,743 (Onion Lake)
The next morning, we slept in. My right arm did not seem worse. I took another ibuprofen. We made breakfast and watched three people on Skurka’s High Route make their way past us and move up the next hill towards Glacier Panorama. We had hoped to go to Glacier Panorama, but that was not to be on this trip. Because of my arm/shoulder injury, we were just going to cautiously hike back to our car. Going back over Knifepoint Glacier was not an option, so we packed up and hiked east towards Shangri-la Lakes. The view into North Fork of Bull Lake Creek was impressive! We wondered how many grizzly bears might be down in the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek valley.
It turned out that my shoulder was achy, but not terribly achy. I could not really use my right trekking pole. We waded Knifepoint Creek, followed elk tracks up a hill and spent most of the day walking along contour above the shores of the spectacularly blue Shangri-La Lakes. We saw a hummingbird. It was a sunny, breezy day, and we somehow managed to enjoy ourselves, despite the uncertainty of my injury.
We arrived at a decent tent site near Lake 10,743 at about 3 p.m., but the sun was so intense that we waited until later in the day to set up the tent. We had time to clean up a bit. We snacked and looked at the mountains and lake. From camp, we visually scouted the route up to Goat Friendly Pass via Goat Packers Bench. The cloudless day ended with a scenic sunset. It was starry, cold, and windy during the night. My shoulder seemed to be a little better.
View Into North Fork of Bull Lake Creek
One of the Shangri-La Lakes, Gentian Lake
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Last edited by arkheel on Wed Feb 14, 2024 3:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023 Elkhart Loop
Day 5, August 12, 2023 – Shangri-La Lake 10,743 to Lake 10,590 Near Brown Cliff Lakes
We woke early and had a quick, cold granola breakfast so that we could get a good start crossing Goat Friendly Pass. We found the easy-to-follow goat-friendly trail up to the plateau. The cold, strong wind almost blew us off our feet, so we stopped often to lean into the wind and brace ourselves. We lost the trail for a while up on the plateau, but Compass kept us close to where we wanted to be. We had views into the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek and Milky Lakes. Later, Photo Pass, Gannett Peak and Goat Flat (we think) were visible to the north. Temple Peak and Wind River Peak could be seen to the south.
We started to drop off the plateau via a long, foot-abusing route to the Middle Fork of Bull Lake Creek watershed. After dropping off the plateau, we came to a lush, green valley. We were hiking west towards Lake 10,590 and Brown Cliffs. We saw a herd of twenty elk along the way, and a bald eagle. The outlet for Lake 10,590 was a straightforward rock hop. We enjoyed stunning views and watching the elk herd.
Our campsite near Lake 10,590 had quite the mosquito population, so we donned head nets. We were grateful for the good weather, since we had spent hours up high and exposed. The night was quiet and starry.
Sunrise at Onion Lake, One of the Shangri-La Lakes
View From the Goat Friendly Route
Elk Herd
Day 6, August 13, 2023 – Lake 10 to Douglas Lake
We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. Our route took us by Talus Lake, then up and down a very steep talus-filled hill. This was not a great route choice for a hiker with one good arm. We descended a steep slope and picked up the old, now unmaintained trail to the creek coming from Snowbridge Lake. The old bridge over the creek had fallen. We crossed the creek on a large log upstream of the fallen bridge and continued on the old trail towards Douglas Lake.
We arrived at Douglas Lake in early afternoon and set up out tent when rain seemed imminent. We had hoped to climb up and over to Fortress Lake as a day hike, so we were disappointed to see a steep snow field on the route. With my shoulder being so undependable, we decided to skip the hike to Fortress Lake. I was sad about missing this day hike.
While we were eating dinner, two hikers descended across the snow field and made camp near the southern shore of Douglas Lake.
Our Campsite at Lake 10,590
Collapsed Bridge at Snowbridge Drainage
Douglas Peak and Douglas Lake
We woke early and had a quick, cold granola breakfast so that we could get a good start crossing Goat Friendly Pass. We found the easy-to-follow goat-friendly trail up to the plateau. The cold, strong wind almost blew us off our feet, so we stopped often to lean into the wind and brace ourselves. We lost the trail for a while up on the plateau, but Compass kept us close to where we wanted to be. We had views into the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek and Milky Lakes. Later, Photo Pass, Gannett Peak and Goat Flat (we think) were visible to the north. Temple Peak and Wind River Peak could be seen to the south.
We started to drop off the plateau via a long, foot-abusing route to the Middle Fork of Bull Lake Creek watershed. After dropping off the plateau, we came to a lush, green valley. We were hiking west towards Lake 10,590 and Brown Cliffs. We saw a herd of twenty elk along the way, and a bald eagle. The outlet for Lake 10,590 was a straightforward rock hop. We enjoyed stunning views and watching the elk herd.
Our campsite near Lake 10,590 had quite the mosquito population, so we donned head nets. We were grateful for the good weather, since we had spent hours up high and exposed. The night was quiet and starry.
Sunrise at Onion Lake, One of the Shangri-La Lakes
View From the Goat Friendly Route
Elk Herd
Day 6, August 13, 2023 – Lake 10 to Douglas Lake
We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. Our route took us by Talus Lake, then up and down a very steep talus-filled hill. This was not a great route choice for a hiker with one good arm. We descended a steep slope and picked up the old, now unmaintained trail to the creek coming from Snowbridge Lake. The old bridge over the creek had fallen. We crossed the creek on a large log upstream of the fallen bridge and continued on the old trail towards Douglas Lake.
We arrived at Douglas Lake in early afternoon and set up out tent when rain seemed imminent. We had hoped to climb up and over to Fortress Lake as a day hike, so we were disappointed to see a steep snow field on the route. With my shoulder being so undependable, we decided to skip the hike to Fortress Lake. I was sad about missing this day hike.
While we were eating dinner, two hikers descended across the snow field and made camp near the southern shore of Douglas Lake.
Our Campsite at Lake 10,590
Collapsed Bridge at Snowbridge Drainage
Douglas Peak and Douglas Lake
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023 Elkhart Loop
Day 7, August 14, 2023 – Douglas Lake to Big Trapper Lake
The tent was frosty and hard to pack up. We picked up a use trail and followed it to the stream outlet from Camp Lake. Fortunately, there were logs and rocks to use for the stream crossing. We continued on the use trail up to Camp Pass. We used our micro spikes on a snow field near Lower Snowbank Lake. I did not want to fall on my shoulder again. We watched a loon on Upper Snowbank Lake.
We descended from Camp Pass to Upper Golden Lake and arrived by 12:45 p.m. We took a long break and then started towards Big Trapper Lake. We donned our micro spikes to cross another snow field along the route. We made decent time on a use trail with some cross country mixed in and arrived at Big Trapper Lake by midafternoon. It was warm and sunny with a cloudless sky. The ground was rocky, and it took us about an hour to find a tent site. We met two other hikers who had come over Angel Pass that day. They were also camping at Big Trapper Lake. The hikers were from Austin, TX and were out for seven days.
While eating dinner, we watched ground squirrels eating/collecting grass seeds. The sun set early behind the surrounding mountains, so we took that as a sign to turn in. There was no wind at bedtime, and the sky was clear.
Lower Snowbank Lake
Upper Golden Lake and Lake Louise
Day 8, August 15, 2023 – Big Trapper Lake to Pole Creek Ponds
Wind picked up during the night and our tent was flapping by 4 a.m. We packed up and headed towards Fall Creek Pass. It was a pleasant route with great views. On the way down from the pass towards Lake 11,045, we saw three bull elk traveling in a line, with the largest elk in front and smallest in the back. We saw an ermine along the shore of Lake 11,045, and it was not happy to see us.
Timico Lake had strange, vertical green strands of algae growing along the shore. At Timico Lake, we picked up a well-used trail. This trail eventually intersected the CDT, and we turned north on the CDT. Over and over, the CDT went up steeply, then down steeply, mostly while in the blazing, hot sunshine. Everyone on the trail looked overheated. I broke out my umbrella for shade. We saw three grouse along the trail. When we crossed into Bald Mountain Basin, we were rewarded with an impressive view that included Angel Peak and Angel Pass, Mt. Harrower, Fremont Peak and Gannett Peak. We could also see the Island-Wall Pass talus field that we had descended on a trip back in 2020.
We camped near to the CDT and Pole Creek Ponds, though it took us quite a while to find a flat, grassy campsite. Near our camp, we saw what we think was an otter in one of the small lakes.
Leaving Big Trapper Lake
Timico Lake
Bald Mountain Basin
The tent was frosty and hard to pack up. We picked up a use trail and followed it to the stream outlet from Camp Lake. Fortunately, there were logs and rocks to use for the stream crossing. We continued on the use trail up to Camp Pass. We used our micro spikes on a snow field near Lower Snowbank Lake. I did not want to fall on my shoulder again. We watched a loon on Upper Snowbank Lake.
We descended from Camp Pass to Upper Golden Lake and arrived by 12:45 p.m. We took a long break and then started towards Big Trapper Lake. We donned our micro spikes to cross another snow field along the route. We made decent time on a use trail with some cross country mixed in and arrived at Big Trapper Lake by midafternoon. It was warm and sunny with a cloudless sky. The ground was rocky, and it took us about an hour to find a tent site. We met two other hikers who had come over Angel Pass that day. They were also camping at Big Trapper Lake. The hikers were from Austin, TX and were out for seven days.
While eating dinner, we watched ground squirrels eating/collecting grass seeds. The sun set early behind the surrounding mountains, so we took that as a sign to turn in. There was no wind at bedtime, and the sky was clear.
Lower Snowbank Lake
Upper Golden Lake and Lake Louise
Day 8, August 15, 2023 – Big Trapper Lake to Pole Creek Ponds
Wind picked up during the night and our tent was flapping by 4 a.m. We packed up and headed towards Fall Creek Pass. It was a pleasant route with great views. On the way down from the pass towards Lake 11,045, we saw three bull elk traveling in a line, with the largest elk in front and smallest in the back. We saw an ermine along the shore of Lake 11,045, and it was not happy to see us.
Timico Lake had strange, vertical green strands of algae growing along the shore. At Timico Lake, we picked up a well-used trail. This trail eventually intersected the CDT, and we turned north on the CDT. Over and over, the CDT went up steeply, then down steeply, mostly while in the blazing, hot sunshine. Everyone on the trail looked overheated. I broke out my umbrella for shade. We saw three grouse along the trail. When we crossed into Bald Mountain Basin, we were rewarded with an impressive view that included Angel Peak and Angel Pass, Mt. Harrower, Fremont Peak and Gannett Peak. We could also see the Island-Wall Pass talus field that we had descended on a trip back in 2020.
We camped near to the CDT and Pole Creek Ponds, though it took us quite a while to find a flat, grassy campsite. Near our camp, we saw what we think was an otter in one of the small lakes.
Leaving Big Trapper Lake
Timico Lake
Bald Mountain Basin
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023 Elkhart Loop
Day 9, August 16, 2023 – Unnamed Lake in Bald Mountain Basin to Pole Creek Lakes
After a clear and star-filled night, we woke to frost and to the fact that small rodents had thoroughly chewed up our Kula clothes during the night. We enjoyed the view of Pole Creek Ponds while eating breakfast. While we were packing up camp, a helicopter flew in and landed near Seneca Lake or Island Lake. We could hear it, but not see the landing site. A short while later, the helicopter took off and left the area.
After breaking camp, we struck out for the trail that would take us around Cook Lakes. The first two-thirds of the route around Cook Lakes was beautiful. The last third of the route was in a less scenic, dry area.
Once back on the Pole Creek trail, we headed towards Pole Creek crossing, where we waded across. We saw lots of people on horses. It was a hot and sunny day. Everyone on the trail looked to be suffering. Later in the day, we found a campsite on a hill near Pole Lake. We still had good views of high peaks.
View of Angel Pass from Lower Cook Lake
Day 10, August 17, 2023 – Pole Creek Lakes to Miller Lake
The day was hazy and hot. The trail went uphill for a long way between the Pole Creek Lake area and Eklund Lake. Near Eklund Lake, we spoke with a couple of horse packers who said that they had just dropped off supplies for a group of plant researchers. From Eklund Lake, we still had views of Fremont and Jackson Peaks. After passing Eklund Lake, we took the Sweeney/Miller trail, and the crowds disappeared. We passed an old, collapsing cabin near Middle Sweeney Lake.
This trail goes through areas of dead trees, making it hard to find a safe campsite. We finally found a tent site near the west end of Miller Lake. Clouds had been building from the southwest all afternoon, so we thought that it might rain during the night. We enjoyed a last night on the trail, savoring the views of fireweed and Miller Lake. There was dried, old moose scat near our campsite.
While we were eating, ground and red squirrels came begging. They were very persistent, but we shooed them away. After dinner we watched fish rise on the lake and saw a red squirrel cutting heavy, resinous pinecones from pine trees and then collecting and hiding the cones.
Compass and I were both hungry for fresh food and thinking of showers and the breakfast burrito at Heart and Soul Café in Pinedale.
We turned in around dark and drifted to sleep. Around 9 p.m. a group of loudly talking hikers passed close to our camp, waking us up. Lightening flashed in the distance, and light rain started to fall. Then it was quiet. Our site was sloped, so we did not sleep well.
Fireweed at Miller Lake
After a clear and star-filled night, we woke to frost and to the fact that small rodents had thoroughly chewed up our Kula clothes during the night. We enjoyed the view of Pole Creek Ponds while eating breakfast. While we were packing up camp, a helicopter flew in and landed near Seneca Lake or Island Lake. We could hear it, but not see the landing site. A short while later, the helicopter took off and left the area.
After breaking camp, we struck out for the trail that would take us around Cook Lakes. The first two-thirds of the route around Cook Lakes was beautiful. The last third of the route was in a less scenic, dry area.
Once back on the Pole Creek trail, we headed towards Pole Creek crossing, where we waded across. We saw lots of people on horses. It was a hot and sunny day. Everyone on the trail looked to be suffering. Later in the day, we found a campsite on a hill near Pole Lake. We still had good views of high peaks.
View of Angel Pass from Lower Cook Lake
Day 10, August 17, 2023 – Pole Creek Lakes to Miller Lake
The day was hazy and hot. The trail went uphill for a long way between the Pole Creek Lake area and Eklund Lake. Near Eklund Lake, we spoke with a couple of horse packers who said that they had just dropped off supplies for a group of plant researchers. From Eklund Lake, we still had views of Fremont and Jackson Peaks. After passing Eklund Lake, we took the Sweeney/Miller trail, and the crowds disappeared. We passed an old, collapsing cabin near Middle Sweeney Lake.
This trail goes through areas of dead trees, making it hard to find a safe campsite. We finally found a tent site near the west end of Miller Lake. Clouds had been building from the southwest all afternoon, so we thought that it might rain during the night. We enjoyed a last night on the trail, savoring the views of fireweed and Miller Lake. There was dried, old moose scat near our campsite.
While we were eating, ground and red squirrels came begging. They were very persistent, but we shooed them away. After dinner we watched fish rise on the lake and saw a red squirrel cutting heavy, resinous pinecones from pine trees and then collecting and hiding the cones.
Compass and I were both hungry for fresh food and thinking of showers and the breakfast burrito at Heart and Soul Café in Pinedale.
We turned in around dark and drifted to sleep. Around 9 p.m. a group of loudly talking hikers passed close to our camp, waking us up. Lightening flashed in the distance, and light rain started to fall. Then it was quiet. Our site was sloped, so we did not sleep well.
Fireweed at Miller Lake
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023 Elkhart Loop
Day 11, August 18, 2023 – Miller Lake to Elkhart Trail Head
We awoke to light rain followed by sunshine. We did not rush through eating breakfast and packing up camp. We started off and before long intersected the Pole Creek trail. Then, it was mostly downhill to the trail head and our car. Many people were hiking in, including several CDT hikers. We stopped and spoke with a sweet south bounder whose trail name was Loofah, for the loofah sponge he carried on his pack. We enjoyed talking with him. He was a veteran thru hiker, having completed the AT in previous years and the AZT in early 2023.
Hikers we talked to said that weather was coming in and heavy rain was expected in the coming days. We had our fill of rain in the Winds this year, so we were not sad to be missing the next storm system.
We got to our car at 11:20 a.m. and drove directly to the Heart and Soul Café. We ate second breakfast and then first lunch.
Second Breakfast
Epilogue
On our way home, we drove past Flaming Gorge and stopped to visit Dinosaur National Monument. We spent a couple of nights at State Forest State Park in Colorado and day hiked up to the boundary with Rocky Mountain National Park. Then we started our long drive back to North Carolina. My shoulder was feeling okay but was strangely weak and ached at night. I also had trouble shifting the gears in our car.
Upon our return home, I visited my favorite sports massage therapist, and he thought that I might have torn the subscapularis portion of my rotator cuff. An MRI was ordered, which confirmed the tear. I had rotator cuff surgery in late October 2023. The surgery confirmed that my subscapularis was completely torn, and my supraspinatus and bicep tendons were both partially torn. I wondered why my shoulder had not been more painful during the trip. My physical therapist said that a complete tear is often less painful than a partial tear.
Sixteen weeks out from surgery, I am on the mend and my shoulder is feeling good. The prognosis for my shoulder is very good if I follow doctor’s and physical therapist’s orders, which I am definitely doing. I have been given permission to hike on trails again, though I am to avoid wet, sketchy trails for now. Backpacking should be back on my allowed list of things to do starting in about mid-April 2024.
I can hardly wait!!
We awoke to light rain followed by sunshine. We did not rush through eating breakfast and packing up camp. We started off and before long intersected the Pole Creek trail. Then, it was mostly downhill to the trail head and our car. Many people were hiking in, including several CDT hikers. We stopped and spoke with a sweet south bounder whose trail name was Loofah, for the loofah sponge he carried on his pack. We enjoyed talking with him. He was a veteran thru hiker, having completed the AT in previous years and the AZT in early 2023.
Hikers we talked to said that weather was coming in and heavy rain was expected in the coming days. We had our fill of rain in the Winds this year, so we were not sad to be missing the next storm system.
We got to our car at 11:20 a.m. and drove directly to the Heart and Soul Café. We ate second breakfast and then first lunch.
Second Breakfast
Epilogue
On our way home, we drove past Flaming Gorge and stopped to visit Dinosaur National Monument. We spent a couple of nights at State Forest State Park in Colorado and day hiked up to the boundary with Rocky Mountain National Park. Then we started our long drive back to North Carolina. My shoulder was feeling okay but was strangely weak and ached at night. I also had trouble shifting the gears in our car.
Upon our return home, I visited my favorite sports massage therapist, and he thought that I might have torn the subscapularis portion of my rotator cuff. An MRI was ordered, which confirmed the tear. I had rotator cuff surgery in late October 2023. The surgery confirmed that my subscapularis was completely torn, and my supraspinatus and bicep tendons were both partially torn. I wondered why my shoulder had not been more painful during the trip. My physical therapist said that a complete tear is often less painful than a partial tear.
Sixteen weeks out from surgery, I am on the mend and my shoulder is feeling good. The prognosis for my shoulder is very good if I follow doctor’s and physical therapist’s orders, which I am definitely doing. I have been given permission to hike on trails again, though I am to avoid wet, sketchy trails for now. Backpacking should be back on my allowed list of things to do starting in about mid-April 2024.
I can hardly wait!!
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023, Elkhart Loop
Sorry about your shoulder injury. Best of luck with the recovery and hope it is 100% healed by this backpack season.
I have always used crampons on the Knifepoint Glacier so cannot say what it would be like without. A lot of backpackers do not take crampons. As for ice axe, with crampons and trekking poles I never felt at risk without an ice axe. The slope of the glacier is quite low angle. It actually is easier without the current year's snow because you can see the best path easier. Glacial moraines are always a bit miserable. I assume you went across the glacier and down the right lateral moraine. I have done the direct route down the glacier and off the terminal moraine, and it is a lot harder, and loose boulders too.
Your route, planned or unplanned due to your shoulder, is a fine loop route. In fact it is one I describe in my guide. Too bad you could not see Glacier Panorama, but the rest of your trip was a good choice. Fall Creek Pass is an easy route, safest in poor weather too. I had planned on doing almost the same route you did, but decided not to, being solo and with the unsettled weather. The North Fork of Bull Lake Creek is a hard place to get out of if something goes wrong. I am glad your shoulder worked well enough for you to get out on your own and you had enough food to take the longer route out.
Thanks for taking time to do your trip reports. It is really informative for me to hear other backpacker's experiences on routes that I have done.
I have always used crampons on the Knifepoint Glacier so cannot say what it would be like without. A lot of backpackers do not take crampons. As for ice axe, with crampons and trekking poles I never felt at risk without an ice axe. The slope of the glacier is quite low angle. It actually is easier without the current year's snow because you can see the best path easier. Glacial moraines are always a bit miserable. I assume you went across the glacier and down the right lateral moraine. I have done the direct route down the glacier and off the terminal moraine, and it is a lot harder, and loose boulders too.
Your route, planned or unplanned due to your shoulder, is a fine loop route. In fact it is one I describe in my guide. Too bad you could not see Glacier Panorama, but the rest of your trip was a good choice. Fall Creek Pass is an easy route, safest in poor weather too. I had planned on doing almost the same route you did, but decided not to, being solo and with the unsettled weather. The North Fork of Bull Lake Creek is a hard place to get out of if something goes wrong. I am glad your shoulder worked well enough for you to get out on your own and you had enough food to take the longer route out.
Thanks for taking time to do your trip reports. It is really informative for me to hear other backpacker's experiences on routes that I have done.
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pylepacker
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Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023, Elkhart Loop
It was nice meeting you at the Highline Trail Junction. I did take your advice and day-hiked to Island Pass - what a view! This was my first visit to the Winds. Probably the wettest trip in my long career. 8 day solo - not bad for a 70 year old. The first 6 days was almost continuous rain. It was worth it. Planning on going back soon. I hiked the Cook Lakes Loop out of Elkhart Park. I found the hiking gentle - more gentle than the Sierra west side. Lovely scenery (when I could see it). For the fishermen out there, the little unnamed lakes and smaller named lakes on the loop were a lot of fun.
Happy trails, Pylepacker
Happy trails, Pylepacker
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Wind River Trip 2, August 8 - August 18, 2023, Elkhart Loop
I read your report again- must have missed the part about day hikers saying there was no snow in Indian Pass. That is correct if they only went to the high point of Indian Pass, because you cannot see the Knifepoint Glacier unless you walk down the east side a distance. I have been told the same from day-hikers. You would not believe the amount of incorrect unsolicited "advice" I get from other backpackers. I mostly ignore it all.
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