My spouse (trail name “Compass”) and I like to do some extended hiking trips in the west each summer. We try to visit some lessor known parks on our way to and from. This year we visited Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota on our way to Wyoming. Honestly, hiking in bison country was intimidating. The poison ivy in the park was also scary. We arrived in Lander, WY a few days before our Wind River trip and did some day hiking near Lander, WY to acclimate. On July 30, 2023 we set out on our first of two trips in the Wind River Range. As always, we are grateful for Wandering Daisy and her book Beyond Trails in the Wind River Mountains.
Day 1, July 30, 2023 - Stough Creek Lakes Trail Head to Shoal Lake
We started hiking from the Stough Creek trail head by 9:30 a.m. We hadn’t gone very far when we caught up to a group of people hiking with llamas. The llamas made little murmuring noises as we passed. The day was sunny and warm. We got to Shoal Lake at about 4 p.m., found a tent site and set up camp. Mosquitos were bad! While we were cooking dinner, it started to rain. This turned out to be a foreshadowing of rain to come. When we climbed into the tent it was very warm, and we listened to the mosquitos flinging themselves at our tent, trying to get in. Eventually the night cooled enough for sleeping.
View of Wind River Peak and Lizard Head
Shoal Lake
Day 2, July 31, 2023 - Shoal Lake to Poison Lake
We packed up camp and headed southwest towards beautiful Toadstool Lakes. We had not expected the southern Winds to be so stunning! We passed Dipper Ponds, and then headed west for a pass near the northwestern arm of Roaring Fork Mountain. Along the way, we spooked three elk, a cow and two calves. The route up and over the pass had easy-to-follow, grassy ramps. Rain threatened from the south, but we made it over the pass without getting rained upon. The views of Wind River Peak and Lizard Head from the top of the pass were impressive! However, we saw large snowfields on Wind River Peak, along our intended route.
We hiked southwest towards Basco Creek, contouring around Roaring Fork Mountain. Making our way over lumpy ridges and grassy ramps, we intersected the Sweetwater Trail. After several false starts, we finally found the use trail to Poison Lake. We spooked another cow elk and saw a grouse. Closer to Poison Lake, the use trail faded into nothingness. The way that we eventually took was steep and convoluted. I wouldn’t recommend it to others. We finally stumbled out on the shore of Poison Lake. We set up camp on a windy ridge overlooking Poison Lake. We met our three angler neighbors. While we were cooking our dinner, a mink snuck over and tried to take our Fritos! After our experience at Shoal Lake, we were grateful that there were not as many mossies here.
Toadstool Lake
On the Way to Basco Creek
Wind River Trip 1, July 30 - August 6, 2023, Stough Creek Basin
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arkheel
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Wind River Trip 1, July 30 - August 6, 2023, Stough Creek Basin
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Last edited by arkheel on Sun Feb 11, 2024 1:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 1, July 30 - August 6, 2023, Stough Creek Basin
Day 3, August 1, 2023 - Poison Lake to Coon Lake
We left camp and waded across Tayo Creek. This morning, we would be on maintained trail, making for easy travel. We followed the trail southwest as it made its way along Tayo Creek. Then the trail peeled off to Coon Lake. The landscape opened up around willowy Coon Lake basin revealing views of distant spires and a large granite monolith beyond Little Sandy Creek. Mount Nystrom loomed to the south. We set up camp quickly and headed out for a day hike to “Coon Pass” to get a view down into the Little Sandy drainage. Storms built in quickly, and we hunkered down in rain and hail for about an hour. Lightning struck one of the spires across the valley. The storms finally drifted away, and we got found a good vantage point for peering into the Little Sandy, an awe-inspiring drop off. We circumnavigated the western and southern shore of Coon Lake on our way back to camp. The mossies were out in force. After dinner, we sat by the lake wearing our head nets and watched fish rise. A rabbit grazed nearby. Just after dusk, two small owls swooped low over our tent. They seemed to be feeding on some large insects. On and off, rain fell during the night.
Storm Over Mt. Nystrom
Looking Into the Little Sandy Valley
Fresh Hail on Temple Peak
Day 4, August 2, 2023 - Coon Lake to Timberline Lake
A mule deer passed close by while we were cooking breakfast. After breakfast, we set off on a pleasant cross-country route to Tayo Lake. The route contoured around a steep hillside and a swampy area. We stopped for a snack break at Tayo Lake, taking in the view. There didn’t seem to be any good camping at Tayo Lake.
On this trip, we had hoped to ascend and cross the ridge below Wind River Peak, but the views of large snowfields convinced us to change our plans. There was too much snow for us. Instead, we left Tayo Lake down a well-used trail and made our way back to Poison Lake. The llama group that we had passed on Day 1 was camped at Poison Lake.
We took the deeply eroded and ridiculously steep Ice Lakes trail. By this time, it was late in the day. We were tired. The trail took us over two steep passes. We looked for camping between the two passes but found none. We finally made it Timberline Lake and found a somewhat sheltered tent site just as the clouds closed in on us and blocked our view of the surrounding peaks. Thunder rolled through the valley. We made dinner so quickly that our meal wasn’t fully rehydrated, but we ate it anyway as thunder rumbled close by. Rain was heavy during the night.
Morning Light Over Coon Lake
Tayo Lake
We left camp and waded across Tayo Creek. This morning, we would be on maintained trail, making for easy travel. We followed the trail southwest as it made its way along Tayo Creek. Then the trail peeled off to Coon Lake. The landscape opened up around willowy Coon Lake basin revealing views of distant spires and a large granite monolith beyond Little Sandy Creek. Mount Nystrom loomed to the south. We set up camp quickly and headed out for a day hike to “Coon Pass” to get a view down into the Little Sandy drainage. Storms built in quickly, and we hunkered down in rain and hail for about an hour. Lightning struck one of the spires across the valley. The storms finally drifted away, and we got found a good vantage point for peering into the Little Sandy, an awe-inspiring drop off. We circumnavigated the western and southern shore of Coon Lake on our way back to camp. The mossies were out in force. After dinner, we sat by the lake wearing our head nets and watched fish rise. A rabbit grazed nearby. Just after dusk, two small owls swooped low over our tent. They seemed to be feeding on some large insects. On and off, rain fell during the night.
Storm Over Mt. Nystrom
Looking Into the Little Sandy Valley
Fresh Hail on Temple Peak
Day 4, August 2, 2023 - Coon Lake to Timberline Lake
A mule deer passed close by while we were cooking breakfast. After breakfast, we set off on a pleasant cross-country route to Tayo Lake. The route contoured around a steep hillside and a swampy area. We stopped for a snack break at Tayo Lake, taking in the view. There didn’t seem to be any good camping at Tayo Lake.
On this trip, we had hoped to ascend and cross the ridge below Wind River Peak, but the views of large snowfields convinced us to change our plans. There was too much snow for us. Instead, we left Tayo Lake down a well-used trail and made our way back to Poison Lake. The llama group that we had passed on Day 1 was camped at Poison Lake.
We took the deeply eroded and ridiculously steep Ice Lakes trail. By this time, it was late in the day. We were tired. The trail took us over two steep passes. We looked for camping between the two passes but found none. We finally made it Timberline Lake and found a somewhat sheltered tent site just as the clouds closed in on us and blocked our view of the surrounding peaks. Thunder rolled through the valley. We made dinner so quickly that our meal wasn’t fully rehydrated, but we ate it anyway as thunder rumbled close by. Rain was heavy during the night.
Morning Light Over Coon Lake
Tayo Lake
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 1, July 30 - August 6, 2023, Stough Creek Basin
Day 5, August 3, 2023 – Day Hike to Fox Lake, Little Walled Lake and Walled Lake
We woke to partly cloudy skies. After breakfast, we started the fun, slabby trek up to Fox, Little Walled and Walled lakes. The walking was fun on the sloped rock slabs, stable talus and grassy ramps. We saw pikas among the rocks and ducks on the lakes. Columbine was everywhere. The lakes were deep blue. We spent time gazing at the lakes, and then noticed that the clouds were getting lower and more threatening. We walked along a stream on our way back towards our camp. The stream disappeared, reappeared, and gurgled among large slabs of rock. We got back to camp and napped in the tent while rain showers came and went. The sun came out, and we threw the tent doors open. Then we closed the tent back up when the next rain shower started. We jumped out of the tent and made dinner in what seemed to be a break between rain showers.
While waiting for our food to rehydrate, a steady rain started to fall. We stood under our hiking umbrellas and waited. Then we ate dinner under our hiking umbrellas. We were so grateful for our hiking umbrellas on this trip! After dinner and the stashing of our bear canisters, we retreated to our tent. After a short break in the rain, the skies opened up again, and rain fell until dawn.
Columbine
Walled Lake
Day 6, August 4, 2023 – Timberline Lake to Shoal Lake
We were able to pack up camp and eat breakfast with no rain falling. We did a short cross-country route to intersect the Ice Lakes trail. We hiked back to the Stough Lakes trail junction. Skies were still cloudy, but the cloud levels were high, allowing for good views. We saw a brancher Pine Grosbeak along the route and the well chewed bone of an unfortunate ungulate. Active red squirrels and striped ground squirrels skittered around. At Tayo Park, we had a longish, cold wade. Three cold stream crossings were on tap for today. The day was cloudy with spitting rain. We crossed Shoal Lake outlet and found a campsite just before two hours of rain. We were sick of the rain. The sky cleared, and we ate a late, for us, dinner. Sunset was lovely, and the evening cooled off quickly. Of course, our socks and shoes were still wet. During the cool, damp night, condensation dripped on my face.
Timberline Lake
Wind River Peak Snowfield
Well Chewed Bone
We woke to partly cloudy skies. After breakfast, we started the fun, slabby trek up to Fox, Little Walled and Walled lakes. The walking was fun on the sloped rock slabs, stable talus and grassy ramps. We saw pikas among the rocks and ducks on the lakes. Columbine was everywhere. The lakes were deep blue. We spent time gazing at the lakes, and then noticed that the clouds were getting lower and more threatening. We walked along a stream on our way back towards our camp. The stream disappeared, reappeared, and gurgled among large slabs of rock. We got back to camp and napped in the tent while rain showers came and went. The sun came out, and we threw the tent doors open. Then we closed the tent back up when the next rain shower started. We jumped out of the tent and made dinner in what seemed to be a break between rain showers.
While waiting for our food to rehydrate, a steady rain started to fall. We stood under our hiking umbrellas and waited. Then we ate dinner under our hiking umbrellas. We were so grateful for our hiking umbrellas on this trip! After dinner and the stashing of our bear canisters, we retreated to our tent. After a short break in the rain, the skies opened up again, and rain fell until dawn.
Columbine
Walled Lake
Day 6, August 4, 2023 – Timberline Lake to Shoal Lake
We were able to pack up camp and eat breakfast with no rain falling. We did a short cross-country route to intersect the Ice Lakes trail. We hiked back to the Stough Lakes trail junction. Skies were still cloudy, but the cloud levels were high, allowing for good views. We saw a brancher Pine Grosbeak along the route and the well chewed bone of an unfortunate ungulate. Active red squirrels and striped ground squirrels skittered around. At Tayo Park, we had a longish, cold wade. Three cold stream crossings were on tap for today. The day was cloudy with spitting rain. We crossed Shoal Lake outlet and found a campsite just before two hours of rain. We were sick of the rain. The sky cleared, and we ate a late, for us, dinner. Sunset was lovely, and the evening cooled off quickly. Of course, our socks and shoes were still wet. During the cool, damp night, condensation dripped on my face.
Timberline Lake
Wind River Peak Snowfield
Well Chewed Bone
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 1, July 30 - August 6, 2023, Stough Creek Basin
Day 7, August 5, 2023 – Shoal Lake to Near Stough Creek Lakes Trail Head Via Roaring Fork Pass
We woke to a very wet tent and damp quilts. The day was sunny, with few clouds. We set off cross-country for Cutthroat Lake. We crossed the inlet and started up very steep grassy ramps on our way to Roaring Fork pass. We crossed over the pass and came to a steep snowfield. We worked our way along the left side of the snow and were able to avoid most of it. We passed another hiker coming up the pass, and he gave us intel on how to navigate around the lower part of the snowfield. It involved lowering packs and downclimbing a short corner of rock. After passing this crux, we made our way down hill on various benches and through brushy, wooded areas. We finally picked up a use trail that went down and down. We saw more people today than we had seen in the previous six days. It was the first nice day in a while, and many people were hiking and fishing.
We looked for a campsite for quite a while. We found flat sites, but there were many dead trees all around, and we didn’t want to sleep close to dead trees. We finally found a site and had one more opportunity to sit out a rain shower in our tent. We ate the last dinner of our trip and enjoyed a mostly mosquito free evening.
Morning Over Shoal Lake
View From the Route to Roaring Fork Pass
Shoal Lake Viewed From Route to Roaring Fork Pass
Avoiding the Snowfield at Roaring Fork Pass
Day 8, August 6, 2023 – Stough Creek Lakes Trail Head
We had a very short hike to the trail head, maybe a mile, and were back at our car. We made our way to Lander and enjoyed lunch at the Gannett Grill and ice cream at the Scream Shack. Before leaving town, we stopped by Wild Iris Sports where we enjoyed talking with the store owner. She said that we were wise to skip the route below Wind River Peak. The snow conditions were not ideal up there. She also said that there is a confirmed grizzly bear in the Stough Basin. The bear seems to avoid interacting with humans, so that was good to hear.
We left Lander and headed towards South Pass just as a large thunderstorm was descending upon the Lander area. We were on our way to Pinedale for a shower and resupply before starting Trip 2.
We woke to a very wet tent and damp quilts. The day was sunny, with few clouds. We set off cross-country for Cutthroat Lake. We crossed the inlet and started up very steep grassy ramps on our way to Roaring Fork pass. We crossed over the pass and came to a steep snowfield. We worked our way along the left side of the snow and were able to avoid most of it. We passed another hiker coming up the pass, and he gave us intel on how to navigate around the lower part of the snowfield. It involved lowering packs and downclimbing a short corner of rock. After passing this crux, we made our way down hill on various benches and through brushy, wooded areas. We finally picked up a use trail that went down and down. We saw more people today than we had seen in the previous six days. It was the first nice day in a while, and many people were hiking and fishing.
We looked for a campsite for quite a while. We found flat sites, but there were many dead trees all around, and we didn’t want to sleep close to dead trees. We finally found a site and had one more opportunity to sit out a rain shower in our tent. We ate the last dinner of our trip and enjoyed a mostly mosquito free evening.
Morning Over Shoal Lake
View From the Route to Roaring Fork Pass
Shoal Lake Viewed From Route to Roaring Fork Pass
Avoiding the Snowfield at Roaring Fork Pass
Day 8, August 6, 2023 – Stough Creek Lakes Trail Head
We had a very short hike to the trail head, maybe a mile, and were back at our car. We made our way to Lander and enjoyed lunch at the Gannett Grill and ice cream at the Scream Shack. Before leaving town, we stopped by Wild Iris Sports where we enjoyed talking with the store owner. She said that we were wise to skip the route below Wind River Peak. The snow conditions were not ideal up there. She also said that there is a confirmed grizzly bear in the Stough Basin. The bear seems to avoid interacting with humans, so that was good to hear.
We left Lander and headed towards South Pass just as a large thunderstorm was descending upon the Lander area. We were on our way to Pinedale for a shower and resupply before starting Trip 2.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Wind River Trip 1, July 30 - August 6, 2023, Stough Creek Basin
You hit the bad weather. I came out July 30, went up to Green River Lakes and for two days, never got on the trail due to weather and then bailed out to visit friends in Driggs Idaho, where it poured down rain for two full days. I think the worst of the storm was north- you were lucky to be in the southern Wind Rivers.
I always waiver on bringing my umbrella - most of the time I do not and each time I regret it. Good that you had yours. Mosquitoes were pretty bad mid-summer.
When coming out over Roaring Fork Mountain did you take a side trip up to Leg Lake? It is a really impressive lake. I was up on the Ice Lakes Trail earlier when it had quite a bit of snow. But I do remember that there were campsites on the top between the two passes. But then I everyone has a different definition of a "good" campsite. Perhaps with the rain, the good sites were too wet when you were there.
I am eagerly awaiting your next trip report!
I always waiver on bringing my umbrella - most of the time I do not and each time I regret it. Good that you had yours. Mosquitoes were pretty bad mid-summer.
When coming out over Roaring Fork Mountain did you take a side trip up to Leg Lake? It is a really impressive lake. I was up on the Ice Lakes Trail earlier when it had quite a bit of snow. But I do remember that there were campsites on the top between the two passes. But then I everyone has a different definition of a "good" campsite. Perhaps with the rain, the good sites were too wet when you were there.
I am eagerly awaiting your next trip report!
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arkheel
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Re: Wind River Trip 1, July 30 - August 6, 2023, Stough Creek Basin
Every year, while hiking in the Winds, Compass and I say, "I wonder where Wandering Daisy is right now?" We hope to cross paths with you sometime.
Yes, we did hit bad weather. It definitely made the trip on the border between fun and not fun. We still saw lots of beautiful sites. We have always been a little snobby, I think, about other parts of the Winds likely being more beautiful than the southern Winds, but we were wrong. The southern Winds were amazing, and we want to go back there.
We did not make it over to Leg Lake. I think that we were just ready for a shower, some fresh food and a dry place to sleep, so we just kept moving toward the trail head.
I'll work on the second trip report and see if I can get it posted within the next week. Trip 2 did not turn out exactly as planned either, but it makes for an interesting story, I think.
Yes, we did hit bad weather. It definitely made the trip on the border between fun and not fun. We still saw lots of beautiful sites. We have always been a little snobby, I think, about other parts of the Winds likely being more beautiful than the southern Winds, but we were wrong. The southern Winds were amazing, and we want to go back there.
We did not make it over to Leg Lake. I think that we were just ready for a shower, some fresh food and a dry place to sleep, so we just kept moving toward the trail head.
I'll work on the second trip report and see if I can get it posted within the next week. Trip 2 did not turn out exactly as planned either, but it makes for an interesting story, I think.
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