TR: Thousand Island Lake, Garnet Lake, Ediza Lake (failed) – Aug 21-26, 2023

[sbennett3705]

The original itinerary was a lollypop loop from Rush Creek Trailhead to Thousand Island Lake, Garnet Lake, Ediza Lake with side trips to Lake 9898 above Garnet Lake and Nydiver Lakes via Whitebark Pass. This trip was a lesson in flexibility as plans change pending weather, skills and mood. Anyway, an outstanding trip with the privilege showing my son the Sierra high country for his first time.

Flying cross country into Reno, driving 3 ½ hours to the trailhead and starting the hike in the late afternoon seemed like a bad idea for two lowlanders, so we spent the night at Silver Lake Campground (7300’) to acclimate and adjust to the time change. The plan worked well: rest, hydration and Diamox resulting in zero altitude issues.

Starting early, our goal was Clark Lakes, 7 mi. and 3K of elevation gain. Splitting the hike to TIL turned out to be a good idea since the climb is a bit of a slog. Caltopo shows the slope average is steep with max exposure The trail conditions were good, but the first few miles consist of rocky slag where you spend an inordinate amount of time looking after your footing. The dam maintenance track is a steep but tempting shortcut, we did see one person try it but they soon gave up.

1. Lk Agnew tracks.jpg

Entering Ansel Adams Wilderness felt like coming home, about 35 years since my last visit, Sean’s first time!

2. Lake Agnew @ Ansel Adams.jpg

Crossing Crest Creek was a self-imposed adventure. The creek was running fast at the trail crossing due to the record snow year and late melt. When the water hit mid-thigh, we turned around to find a more suitable crossing. Going upstream we found a shallower section, but much faster with deep holes to be negotiated. My son shouted, “this is it!” and threw his clean bottle across to the creek to free both hands. He enthusiastically waded in and quicky became unstable, turning around. Now, with his bottle on the other side, we sheepishly went back to the primary crossing and carefully crossed it. It took 20 minutes to find the errant bottle. Lesson learned and a good laugh was had. Clark Lakes were mosquito HQ, too much standing water and small pools. We quicky cooked dinner and retreated into the tent to consume it. Each entry and exit from the tent resulting in many bugs (like 100!) to be destroyed.

We struck camp and started early to Thousand Island Lake (4 mi., 1K gain). As the trail parallels the northern-most section of the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin there’s a superb, unmarked campsite overlooking a series of waterfalls. We must camp here sometime, it’s a gem.

3. SJ river below TIL.jpg

The short hike to TIL was well-timed. Selecting a campsite at Thousand Island should be done early in the day. Campsites are plentiful west of the JMT crossing, but few seem to want to stray far from the trail. We selected an elevated campsite with excellent views of TIL, Banner & Ritter, settling in by noon. As the day wore on the travelers began to arrive by the dozen. In the late afternoon it had a “Hunger Games” feel as few camp options remained. A Ranger relocated some campers unaware of the set-back restrictions. We walked up a ridge to enjoy the sunset and counted two dozen tents. Truely, it’s a lovely lake, but earns it’s crowed reputation. Note: bear sign was abundant, store food properly!

4. Banner from TIL.jpg

Our plan was to hit Garnet Lake the next morning, but the remnants of Hurricane Hillary finally caught up with us with a driving rain. So, we chose to wait it out by talking and playing cards. It was really great to get caught up and reconnect with the rain spattering the tent– mother nature whispers what you need if you have the ears to hear it. Go with the flow!

Late in the day the rain subsided but it was too late to strike camp, so we decided to explore TIL. The late thaw left a boggy perimeter, many pools and submerged trail sections (and bugs). We confirm there are few, if any, campsites on the south side of the lake. The best sites are on the northern slopes about midway to its western end.

The next morning our intention was to arrive at Garnet Lake by mid-morning (5 mi., 1K gain/loss), then search for the perfect campsite far from the crowds. Passing Ruby Lake still showed deep snow cups in the ravines. Few hikers out early, but two trail runners made us feel old and slow.

5a Ruby Lk.jpg

Garnet was virtually void of travelers yet offers great views and more variety than TIL. We recommend the campsite on the northwestern-most peninsula. It’s slab camping, so use the three-rock method to secure your stakes. You have a fantastic view of Banner and the lake with the bonus of a legitimate sandy beach. Swimming, sunning, doing some laundry and exploring the lake that feeds Garnet (9898) made a great afternoon. We lost a day and the side trip to Ediza, but gained so much more.

6 Garnet peninsula.jpg

An honest to goodness beach with a sandy bottom extending 25 yards into the lake!

7 Garnet Beach.jpg

Climbing to the lake that feeds Garnet is steep, but with a babbling creek the entire way. Freshest water we can remember.

8 Banner Pk from Garnet Lk.jpg

Sunrise at Garnet was calm, brisk and inspiring.

9 Sunrise at Garnet.jpg

We intended to spend the next day going over Whitebark Pass to Nydiver Lakes and back, but the pass was still ice-filled and not possible for us without better traction and protection. So, we began returning to the trailhead, spending our last night at the Crest Creek crossing. This was an excellent campsite that was low enough to allow fires – a great way to end our journey. Oddly, the creek was far lower than a few days ago, just up to the ankles.

10 Crest Creek.jpg

We were chased back to the trailhead by mosquitoes. Rush Creek moved broadly and slowly, a vivid limestone green.

11 Rush Creek 2.jpg

This was the hardest day for my knees (8.5 mi. -3.2K loss), trekking poles making it even possible. It was a hot day; the inbound hikers were really suffering.

Passing Gem Lake dam is a reminder the three ajacent lakes more reservoirs than natural lakes.

12 Gem Lk Dam.jpg

Summary: the area earns it reputation was one of the most beautiful in the Sierra. Crowds easily avoided by going slightly off trail and exploring.

[sekihiker]

Thanks for sharing your adventure. That's a special area.

[The Other Tom]

Nice report and pics. thanks

[balzaccom]

Glad you enjoyed teh adventure. TIL is a lovely place, but we've always found it way too crowded--and few people seem to observe the camping restrictions there, both in terms of distance from the trail and distance from the lake itself. As you noted, the best sites are farthest from both.

And be careful about that tramway! We've seen crews use it to take themselves and gear up to maintain the dams. You would not want to be walking on it when that tramcame up the rails!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ToGQFcXhmbpLx8FY8

[sbennett3705]

Cool balzaccom, didn't know what the tracks are for. We didn't hike them. but we say a guy get about 100 yards and turn around. It's hellaciously steep.

[kpeter]

A truly gorgeous area. You have some fine pictures. The trail up from Silver Lake is really a doozy. I did it coming from sea level and I also only made it to Clark Lakes the first day. I remember pausing for breath every 10 paces or so as I came up through Spooky Meadow. It was a hard day.

Yes, the east end of Thousand Island Lake is always crowded, but not so much the west end or the southern shore. Almost all the JMT and PCT hikers pitch camp on the NE shore. It IS a very picturesque spot, with views, like your shot, of Banner across the lake. But I have always enjoyed camping near the inlet streams that come down from North Glacier Pass. Often few people down there--too far off the main trail for the through hikers.