Big Sandy South Loop
August 7-12, 2023 (7 days, 28 miles)
8/6/2003. Drive to Big Sandy Trailhead Campground
After another rainy night I left Fremont Lake Campground mid-morning with a wet tent and need to recharge my electronics. It was Sunday so nothing was open. I went to the town park playground where there was a bathroom and picnic tables and dried the tent and washed my face. The Post Office lobby was open so I walked in, found an outlet under a table, and sat on the floor while locals came in and out picking up their mail from their post office boxes. Everyone was friendly and acted like sitting on the floor and “stealing” electricity from the post office was a normal Sunday activity.
It took almost three hours to drive to Big Sandy Campground. The last 10 miles to the trailhead was in horrible condition, single lane in places, huge rocks sticking up out of the road, muddy shoulders, blind corners; a real car-eater; basically a 4wd high clearance road. My old Toyota Camry crept along at about 5 mph.
Luckily the last of the four campsites was available. I took a bucket to the river and bathed hidden in the willows. A couple with two teen sons had camped next to me. Later a fellow drove in with a truck camper but all sites were taken so I shared my site with him. He offered to share the cost, but one of his ice cream bars was fair enough trade for me. Note that daily miles include fishing and day-hikes.
Day1. 8/7: Big Sandy Lake
(5.4 miles, about 3 hours, 675 feet elevation gain/ 75 feet loss)
The fellow in the camper was day-hiking to the Cirque of the Towers and left before I got up. I finally stashed my pack near the trailhead and moved my car down the road since the parking lot was full. I walked back, put on the pack, and started up the trail leap-frogging with the family and teens also going to Cirque of the Towers. In spite of the forecast for zero percent chance of rain, just as I reached Big Sandy Lake threatening clouds were building. I had intended to get farther but decided to take it easy on my foot.
First I checked out campsites on the opposite shore that offered privacy. The trade-off would be shadows in the early morning and difficult fishing on the timber-choked shoreline. I came back to the main trail. Before I reached the Jackass Pass Trail junction, the skies opened and rain poured down. I ducked into trees and put on a rain jacket and pack cover. There were many other backpackers and we all were looking for a campsite. The few I first sites I found were too small for my tent, out in the open or posted “site restoration”. I wandered in the rain for what seemed like forever, eventually finding a site across a stream I had to wade. I set up and hunkered down for the rest of the storm until mid-afternoon. Rain stopped and the sun slowly peeked out now and then. As I put wet clothing on rocks to dry I noticed several tents had camped below me out in the meadow. The grandfather of the family group came up and asked me if I planned to stay the next day. They wanted to use the site as a base-camp for three days. I wanted to leave in the morning but had no intention of starting out in the rain. And rain it did later in the evening.
Day2. 8/8: Stuck in rain at Big Sandy Lake
I awoke to rain and did not get out of the tent until well after 9AM. Given the need to rest my foot I stayed, although conditions were not so bad that I could have moved to Black Joe Lake if I really wanted to. I fished in breaks from the rain, hoping it would clear so I could leave. The wind howled creating whitecaps in the lake. Only those spin fishing had any success. The group camped below me day-hiked in the morning and returned drenched. The chatty grandfather came up and asked when I planned to leave. I told him there were plenty of places to set up tents near me and he could move their tents up next morning whether I left or not. I certainly wanted to leave! By early afternoon I gave up on moving. Later a ranger came by and cited the group below and several others with illegal camping. He then came by me and said my site was OK before dropping to the lake to check if fishermen had licenses. Given the rain, those he cited were allowed to delay moving tents until the next morning.
Day3. 8/9: Black Joe near the inlet
(2.3 miles, about 3 hours, 860 feet gain/ 290 feet loss)
Morning arrived with plenty of blue skies and sunshine. I kept the tent up until it dried and left a bit after 9AM. The trail soon crossed the creek from Black Joe Lake. Instead of balancing on the slippery rickety jam of logs I put on the Crocks and waded across. One branch of the trail continued to Clear Lake. I took the other to Black Joe Lake where it ended near the outlet. I wanted to camp near the inlet to Black Joe Lake where fishing was good. To access the fishermen’s trail on the north shores I first had to cross the broken old dam timbers. The next obstacle was a 350-foot buttress that blocked access along the shore. Previously I had used two routes; a direct route with a short section of Class 3 rock, or a nasty brushy gully to the left; and did not like either. With plenty of time to spare, I tried to find an alternate route in the middle. It started well but ended in cliffs where I had to backtrack and drop to the upper part of the direct route anyway. So much for that effort!
From the top of the buttress I descended adjacent to a rocky gully, on a good use-trail at the timber’s edge. The continuing trail along the shoreline looked wet and flooded. I followed a disconnected series of game trails higher up the slope that stayed dry for the most part. Having previously camped near the inlet, this time I sat up on one of the beautiful established sites mid-shore near where I had caught a big fish in the past. After gathering water I fished but it was too early in the day and the fish were staying low in the lake as wind whipped up whitecaps. I took a bath, washed socks and a shirt, and poked around taking photos. About 5PM I started fishing again, this time farther down towards the outlet. No luck. A hiker on Skurka’s High Route passed through. The weather was perfect, the lake deep blue, the meadow lush green and huge cliffs surrounded my campsite. I was happy fish or no fish and cooked dinner. My only regret was not moving up here the day before. If I did not have an injured foot, I should have been able to get to Black Joe the first day.
TR:Wind Rivers 3: Big Sandy South
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Wandering Daisy
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TR:Wind Rivers 3: Big Sandy South
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR:Wind Rivers 3: Big Sandy South
Day4. 8/10: Deep Lake
(4.6 miles, about 5 hours, 875 feet gain/ 630 feet loss)
After breakfast, I hiked to the inlet. The lake’s surface was still rough from the wind but morning light was perfect for photos so I left the fishing rod. Returning to camp I fished a bit but caught nothing and did not get a bite. I hated to leave this beautiful campsite but packed up and returned to the top of the buttress. I made another attempt to find a better route down with even worse results. It looks like the direct route with its bit of rock scrambling was the best choice.
Back across the outlet I stopped to eat a snack at one of the established campsites. I walked a short distance back on the trail I had come up and I turned onto a use-trail that drops to Clear Lake mid-shore. I had thought of camping because fishing is good at Clear Lake, but it was too early. A horse-packer passed with loaded horses, evidently bringing in gear for a group. I continued up to Deep Lake, a bit hesitant because it is a real wind-tunnel. A re-routed use-trail has replaced the trail shown on the map. Several groups were camped on the bench below the lake, out of the wind. Some were climbers who base-camped here to climb Haystack, a challenging rock wall with several technical routes.
I continued up low angle rock slabs and crossed the outlet from Deep Lake, poked around and found a sheltered, but tight, established campsite in scrub timber above the lake. By late afternoon several others had arrived. I fished the northeast shore but the fish were hanging out deep. I talked to two guys camped below me. They were spin-fishing and caught and released about 20 fish. I wish they had given me some to eat! We all fished Temple Lake the next day and again they caught tons of fish and I caught none in Temple Lake but did get a few down at Miller Lake. Conditions really favored spin-fishing.
While cooking dinner I could hear the voices of climbers on Haystack. The evening sun shone directly on the rock but I never saw them. While down at the lakeshore to try one last time to get a fish, two climbers passed who had climbed East Temple Peak. It did not rain but the wind really blew hard all night. I was pleased that my tent was spared the brunt of this wind, although being so tucked into trees was a bit claustrophobic.
(4.6 miles, about 5 hours, 875 feet gain/ 630 feet loss)
After breakfast, I hiked to the inlet. The lake’s surface was still rough from the wind but morning light was perfect for photos so I left the fishing rod. Returning to camp I fished a bit but caught nothing and did not get a bite. I hated to leave this beautiful campsite but packed up and returned to the top of the buttress. I made another attempt to find a better route down with even worse results. It looks like the direct route with its bit of rock scrambling was the best choice.
Back across the outlet I stopped to eat a snack at one of the established campsites. I walked a short distance back on the trail I had come up and I turned onto a use-trail that drops to Clear Lake mid-shore. I had thought of camping because fishing is good at Clear Lake, but it was too early. A horse-packer passed with loaded horses, evidently bringing in gear for a group. I continued up to Deep Lake, a bit hesitant because it is a real wind-tunnel. A re-routed use-trail has replaced the trail shown on the map. Several groups were camped on the bench below the lake, out of the wind. Some were climbers who base-camped here to climb Haystack, a challenging rock wall with several technical routes.
I continued up low angle rock slabs and crossed the outlet from Deep Lake, poked around and found a sheltered, but tight, established campsite in scrub timber above the lake. By late afternoon several others had arrived. I fished the northeast shore but the fish were hanging out deep. I talked to two guys camped below me. They were spin-fishing and caught and released about 20 fish. I wish they had given me some to eat! We all fished Temple Lake the next day and again they caught tons of fish and I caught none in Temple Lake but did get a few down at Miller Lake. Conditions really favored spin-fishing.
While cooking dinner I could hear the voices of climbers on Haystack. The evening sun shone directly on the rock but I never saw them. While down at the lakeshore to try one last time to get a fish, two climbers passed who had climbed East Temple Peak. It did not rain but the wind really blew hard all night. I was pleased that my tent was spared the brunt of this wind, although being so tucked into trees was a bit claustrophobic.
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Last edited by Wandering Daisy on Wed Sep 27, 2023 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR:Wind Rivers 3: Big Sandy South
Day5. 8/11: Fish and Day-hike
(5.6 miles, about 6.5 hours, 600 feet gain and loss)
I was up early and headed for the bench above Temple Lake where Temple Peak glowed in the morning sun. I dropped to the mid-northeast shore where I had previously caught many fish. Several hours slowly fishing along the shore towards the outlet was scenic but produced only a few bites and no fish. Fishing the outlet was also unsuccessful. Miller Lake has always had tons of smaller fish so I dropped down and caught four, cleaned them and carried them back to camp wrapped in a wet towel.
After putting my catch in the bear can, mid-afternoon I walked a faint fisherman’s trail on the east shore and up to Lake 10602, a small fishless lake sits right below impressive East Temple Peak, in a bowl of large talus blocks. I did not take the fishing rod even though I could have fished Deep Lake. Photos were my goal and I did not want to miss the best lighting. I took two different routes up and back to Lake 10602 from the shores of Deep Lake. On the return I found a great wind-protected cove near the inlet to Deep Lake where I bathed, washed clothes and just basked in the sunshine next to a little pocket of wildflowers. It was wonderful! Later back at camp I fished Deep Lake, still without success. I resigned myself to dinner with only the four small fish I caught at Miller Lake. That evening even more people showed up and camped. A few were climbers, four were CDT thru hikers, one family and the two fellows I had spoken with before who were there to fish.
(5.6 miles, about 6.5 hours, 600 feet gain and loss)
I was up early and headed for the bench above Temple Lake where Temple Peak glowed in the morning sun. I dropped to the mid-northeast shore where I had previously caught many fish. Several hours slowly fishing along the shore towards the outlet was scenic but produced only a few bites and no fish. Fishing the outlet was also unsuccessful. Miller Lake has always had tons of smaller fish so I dropped down and caught four, cleaned them and carried them back to camp wrapped in a wet towel.
After putting my catch in the bear can, mid-afternoon I walked a faint fisherman’s trail on the east shore and up to Lake 10602, a small fishless lake sits right below impressive East Temple Peak, in a bowl of large talus blocks. I did not take the fishing rod even though I could have fished Deep Lake. Photos were my goal and I did not want to miss the best lighting. I took two different routes up and back to Lake 10602 from the shores of Deep Lake. On the return I found a great wind-protected cove near the inlet to Deep Lake where I bathed, washed clothes and just basked in the sunshine next to a little pocket of wildflowers. It was wonderful! Later back at camp I fished Deep Lake, still without success. I resigned myself to dinner with only the four small fish I caught at Miller Lake. That evening even more people showed up and camped. A few were climbers, four were CDT thru hikers, one family and the two fellows I had spoken with before who were there to fish.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: TR:Wind Rivers 3: Big Sandy South
Day6. 8/12: Big Sandy River at Wilderness Boundary
(8.1 miles, about 7 hours, 55 feet gain/ 1455 feet loss)
I left fairly early in the morning and again passed the climbers who told me about the route they had enjoyed. From Clear Lake a well maintained trail suitable for horses dropped to Big Sandy Lake. The Big Sandy Trail was busy with day-hikers going in and out and backpackers were also going out. There are several meadows along the river between Big Sandy Lake and the trailhead. I left the trail and dropped to a higher meadow where I ran into a couple who had caught a small fish. Not to crowd them I went back up to the trail. Although I could have easily walked out to the trailhead, I dropped to the banks of the Big Sandy River at the Wilderness Boundary where I fished catching one small fish at the upstream end. Viewed from the trail, the river seemed to meander through a “meadow”; up close it was lumpy, full of rodent burrows, hidden wet muddy channels and willows. Accessing the river downstream was difficult. I set up the tent near a small clump of trees in the lumpy meadow. Day hikers and backpackers streamed by on the trail that was about 200 feet above me. My tent looks like a rock from the distance so they likely did not see it.
Day7. 8/13: Big Sandy Trailhead Campground
(1.5 miles, about ¾ hour, 0 feet gain/ 150 feet loss)
It was a very quick walk out I brought my car up to the campground where all sites were available and chose the lower site next to the river. I gathered buckets of water and began solar heating. Most of my backpack clothes needed a good washing. I bathed, washed my hair, washed my clothes and set out a long clothesline to dry them.
My foot seemed to have completely healed so I looked through my preplanned trip packets. It made sense to do another route from Big Sandy since it took such effort just to drive up that horrible road. I chose a loop going north through the South Fork of the Little Wind River, one of my favorite places. I also took maps and plans for three different exits so I had plenty of flexibility. Afternoon clouds were building so I quickly packed eight days of food in the bear can, drank copious amounts of beer, snacked on peanuts and dark chocolates and finally cooked a big dinner with real food. My In-Reach was nearly out of power so I recharged it with a power pack I bought before the trip for $20 and was pleased that it performed so well. There was no sense in recharging my cell phone because there was no cell coverage. Unfortunately the camera battery takes a wall outlet so I would have to be conservative with photos. By late afternoon the little 4-site campground was full. I was tired went into the tent before dark because I would have to get an early start the next morning to make the miles I hoped to do.
(8.1 miles, about 7 hours, 55 feet gain/ 1455 feet loss)
I left fairly early in the morning and again passed the climbers who told me about the route they had enjoyed. From Clear Lake a well maintained trail suitable for horses dropped to Big Sandy Lake. The Big Sandy Trail was busy with day-hikers going in and out and backpackers were also going out. There are several meadows along the river between Big Sandy Lake and the trailhead. I left the trail and dropped to a higher meadow where I ran into a couple who had caught a small fish. Not to crowd them I went back up to the trail. Although I could have easily walked out to the trailhead, I dropped to the banks of the Big Sandy River at the Wilderness Boundary where I fished catching one small fish at the upstream end. Viewed from the trail, the river seemed to meander through a “meadow”; up close it was lumpy, full of rodent burrows, hidden wet muddy channels and willows. Accessing the river downstream was difficult. I set up the tent near a small clump of trees in the lumpy meadow. Day hikers and backpackers streamed by on the trail that was about 200 feet above me. My tent looks like a rock from the distance so they likely did not see it.
Day7. 8/13: Big Sandy Trailhead Campground
(1.5 miles, about ¾ hour, 0 feet gain/ 150 feet loss)
It was a very quick walk out I brought my car up to the campground where all sites were available and chose the lower site next to the river. I gathered buckets of water and began solar heating. Most of my backpack clothes needed a good washing. I bathed, washed my hair, washed my clothes and set out a long clothesline to dry them.
My foot seemed to have completely healed so I looked through my preplanned trip packets. It made sense to do another route from Big Sandy since it took such effort just to drive up that horrible road. I chose a loop going north through the South Fork of the Little Wind River, one of my favorite places. I also took maps and plans for three different exits so I had plenty of flexibility. Afternoon clouds were building so I quickly packed eight days of food in the bear can, drank copious amounts of beer, snacked on peanuts and dark chocolates and finally cooked a big dinner with real food. My In-Reach was nearly out of power so I recharged it with a power pack I bought before the trip for $20 and was pleased that it performed so well. There was no sense in recharging my cell phone because there was no cell coverage. Unfortunately the camera battery takes a wall outlet so I would have to be conservative with photos. By late afternoon the little 4-site campground was full. I was tired went into the tent before dark because I would have to get an early start the next morning to make the miles I hoped to do.
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wildhiker
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Re: TR:Wind Rivers 3: Big Sandy South
Thanks for more beautiful photos of your Wind River adventures! That East Temple Peak is really something.
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robertseeburger
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Re: TR:Wind Rivers 3: Big Sandy South
I love the pics from Deep Lake. I gotta get there some day.
This is a really scenic area..
I know it detracts though when you meet folks ( like the grandad) who are obnoxious..
"please move so I can take your spot".. ugh..
oh well.. beauty overcomes the hassle..
This is a really scenic area..
I know it detracts though when you meet folks ( like the grandad) who are obnoxious..
"please move so I can take your spot".. ugh..
oh well.. beauty overcomes the hassle..
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