Trip advice: Palisades passes--Fischer Pass, Hinman Col, Agassiz Col

[Ewarford]

I have a permit for August 6 for Big Pine Creek North Fork. My plan was to head up to Sam Mack Meadow, then over the Palisades into Dusy Basin. I was thinking of going over Fischer Pass and Hinman Col, both of which Secor lists as Class 2. But I haven't been able to find anything on the internet about these two passes. Does anyone have any experience with them? My other thought was to go over Agassiz Col, which is listed as Class 3, which makes me nervous. I'd rather stick with Class 2, but Agassiz Col seems to be much more traveled than the other two.

One of our group has mountaineering experience, but the other two (including me) don't. I've got pretty good route-finding skills, and I don't mind using my hands, but I don't like exposure.

I think this would have been a challenging route during a normal year, but this is a far from normal year, so I'm having second (and third and fourth) thoughts. I managed to grab another permit for Bishop Pass, so we could just go up to Dusy Basin and explore up there--Bartlett Lakes at least, maybe further south. It seems like there might be more to do on the Dusy side than on the other side of the Palisades. We have about five days.

I'd appreciate any advice or ideas!

[thegib]

I've never even heard of Fischer and Hinman and I thought I 'knew' 'em all. Bishop pass will make your life much easier and allows for you to bail down to less snowy LeConte canyon if you get bored of snow.

[mort]

Hello Ewarford,
This is a bit sacrilegious, but I've crossed passes that are not what Secor describes. I suspect he didn't change what was already in the Climber Guide (Hervey Voge and David R. Brower (1939)) in some cases. And for example look at Jigsaw Pass. Which I recommend as an alternate to Fischer or Hinman. Secor doesn't describe Hinman at all.
From the east Jigsaw is a steep rocky, sometimes icy climb, but the route is as described by Secor and fairly easy to follow. The Climbers Guide says Class 1.I should add that we crossed from west to east and route finding that way is difficult. And it was many years ago; my memory of how hard and scary it may have been are lost, The west side is also steep and talus, but you can easily see where you are headed. Unfortunately, you probably have to descend about 1000ft. almost down the the last creek on the north side of Bishop Pass and climb Bishop pass from there. Secor says there is a post on Jigsaw Pass, which was there when I was more than 30 years ago. In the Climber's Guide it says there is a cairn. I suspect the post is gone. If you go that way let me know.
-m

Well, I see the Climber's Guide "First Edition (1954)" is online. ["Converted to HTML by Dan Anderson, April 2009, from a copy in my personal library. These files may be used for any non-commercial purpose, provided this notice is left intact."]
And Jigsaw Pass:

Jigsaw Pass (12,622n). Class 1. This pass offers a convenient route from Fifth Lake to Bishop Pass. East to west: Follow the south shore of Fifth Lake, and ascend talus and slabs south of the creek flowing from Mount Agassiz. It is well to stay about 300 feet above the stream to avoid the bluffs over which it cascades. Follow the north branch of the creek for about one mile and then angle to the left over easy ground that may be covered with snow to the pass. Jigsaw Pass is not the lowest point on the divide, but lies a few hundred yards south, beyond a minor rise. It is marked with a cairn. Peak 13,200+ separates the pass from Mount Agassiz. Descend on the west by a steep but easy chute and cross large talus blocks to the nearest point of the Bishop Pass trail, just north of Bishop Pass. West to east: As with many climbs in the Sierra, the west approach to Jigsaw Pass is a problem in choosing the correct chute. From the trail at Bishop Pass one sees that the ridge north of Mount Agassiz extends one mile to the first important peak of the Inconsolable Range (Peak 13,278n). Jigsaw Pass is just south of the low point of this ridge, and is separated from the low point by an angular but low peak. Proceed up the chute ending at the pass. The climb, over scree, grass, and well-fractured granite, will be found much easier than it had appeared. On the two-mile descent to Fifth Lake all one need remember is to keep south of the inlet stream and to stay well above it for the last 400 yards.

[Ewarford]

Thanks, Mort. Secor lists Jigsaw Pass as Class 3. Any speculation as to why the Climber’s Guide has it as Class 1?

Thegib, I did find Hinman and Fischer in Secor. Maybe I should just try them and report back! On the other hand, maybe just not mess with it and do an out-and-back over Bishop Pass.

—Elisa

[Sebastian_A_K]

If I’d find a pair of passes in Secor that I didn’t know about and they are reasonable I’d go there just because.
Neither Hinman nor Fisher are in my 1999 Secor edition. But I’d really like to know where they are. Maybe you’ll tell me after reading the little bit that I have to report:

Just came from Agassiz (July 18). High and steep but no real exposure on the SW side. Nearly no snow higher up bc of the way it’s facing the sun. Take care not to damage the amazing Polemonium near the top. NE side more difficult with a steep but short snow field we down climbed using ice axe and much care. Some very loose rocks. The mosquitoes below snow line were atrocious. SMM still in snow. Will be a mosquito hell in august. Camp on ridge above SML.
IMO Jigsaw is significantly easier. A few years ago, with much much less snow, we crossed from B pass coming from Dusy. You can see the post -yes it is there- with good eyes or a telephoto lens. A few steep yards, not too bad. N Fork side easier but a bit tedious.
I think this year has record snow, record creek levels, record bugs, but also record flowers.
So where do I find hinman and fisher?;)

[Sebastian_A_K]

Ok I found a random map on the web with Hinman col and Fischer pass. That looks like a fun combo! I’d try that.

[Ewarford]

Sebastian, thanks for the beta on Agassiz--it's super helpful. Hinman and Fischer are also on CalTopo!

IMG_2096 Large.jpeg

I might try Fischer and Hinman for fun. If not, maybe Jigsaw. I'll report back.

[Sebastian_A_K]

How did that trip go? Did you check out the two “unknown” passes?