Just returned from a brief trip to Southeast Alaska with my 20 year old son. He has a long summer job at a big fishing resort on Prince of Wales Island, and wanted to do some hiking before getting down to work. I was pretty thrilled with the idea. We flew to Ketchikan from San Jose via Seattle in brilliant weather for less than $200 each, and found a cheap hotel room for $65 per night. We were there together from April 26 to May 2nd, and we got in 5 hikes with a couple of climbs, totaling about 26 miles. For S.E. Alaska the weather couldn't have been better-- a few brief, misty rains, and a bit of sleety graupel during my climb of Deer Mountain, and then a lot of clearing weather with sometimes more than half the sky a cloudless blue!
Ketchikan is on Revillagigedo Island (which most folks reduce to "Revilla"), at the south end of the southeastern leg of Alaska. It is along the Inside Passage, and one of more than 1,100 islands of the Alexander Archipelago, and surrounded by the immense Tongass National Forest. I have cruised through twice before, taking deck passage on the ferry to Skagway. I recalled Ketchikan fondly as the first place where I saw Bald Eagles swirling in the sky like a flock of gigantic gulls! We had a lot of luck with the Bald Eagles, and the various species of bright yellow Warblers also blew my mind! We also saw a few Sitka Deer, Harbor Seals, and best of all, we twice got to watch Orca Whales cruising through the inlet just off the coast! We had a great trip together. Here it is in pictures:
I felt like I hiked right into the scenery from the plane flight.
Ketckikan waterfront.
It's a very real, working waterfront with all kinds of fishing boats after Salmon from Pinks to Kings, and world class sized Halibut. There are also docks for tourist ocean liners, and container ships, and canneries, and fish packing plants. For a town of 9,000 it seems like a big city.
Nathan was pretty excited to be out in this fishing world.
Old town "Creek Street," formerly the rowdy saloon and red light district, and above is "Nob Hill" where the ship captains and big-wigs lived.
I was fascinated but this juxtaposition of cultures old and new.
Seems this old totem spirit is rolling his eyes.
This spirit seems ready for anything. Ketchikan's greater area has a population of fully 30% native Tlinket, Haida, and Tsimshian people. They have a vibrant community with a lot going on, including native arts, language, and cultural centers. Many are successful in the fishing industry; we learned a lot from our interaction with these locals.
Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
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Harlen
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Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
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Last edited by Harlen on Mon Jul 31, 2023 1:40 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Harlen
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Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
Ketchikan averages about 150" of rain per year, and it has a version of our (California) temperate rainforest that is a whole lot wetter! The forest floor is often thickly coated with a layer of mosses and ferns and related waterloving organisms. Locals call it "muskeg," and it is like a more southerly version of Alaska's northern and alpine tundra. We hiked circles around the lakeshores and ponds and marshes, and there saw a great variety of birdlife from tiny kinglets and warblers to thrushs, cool ducks like the Scaups and Buffleheads, up to the stilt-legged Great Blue Herons. We got to watch the Bald Eagles sailing overhead, perched on the jetties, in the conifers, and fishing over the inlet, and the same lakes we hiked.
A Tree Squirrel in the forest.
Nathan in the forest.
Ward Lake hike. I was directed here by a ADFG staff person, who said this area had good Black Bear habitat, but I didn't have the luck to see them. Brown Bear's are absent from Revillagigedo.
Here's one of my weak images of a Bald Eagle. No real telephoto capability, but we did have binos for closeup views.
This is the infamous "Skunk Cabbage."
The forest is comprised of Western Hemlock, Sitka Spruce, Red and Yellow Cedar, and a cousin of our Lodgepole Pine. The understory is full of Salmonberries, blueberries, and probably ten other berries.
I believe the totem poles are mostly carved out of the Red Cedar. Ketchikan area has the world's most extensive collection of standing totem poles, both old originals, restored originals, and they are still being created by current master carvers who are passing down the tradition.
The work is done with hand adzes, formerly with stone blades and now with metal chisel-like attachments.
Bear cubs above, and Bear mother below. She's holding her human husband who was a disappointment to her, and so she ripped out his gear. Many of the Totem poles tell stories with moral teachings incorporated, this one taught about fidelity and keeping one's promises.
A Tree Squirrel in the forest.
Nathan in the forest.
Ward Lake hike. I was directed here by a ADFG staff person, who said this area had good Black Bear habitat, but I didn't have the luck to see them. Brown Bear's are absent from Revillagigedo.
Here's one of my weak images of a Bald Eagle. No real telephoto capability, but we did have binos for closeup views.
This is the infamous "Skunk Cabbage."
The forest is comprised of Western Hemlock, Sitka Spruce, Red and Yellow Cedar, and a cousin of our Lodgepole Pine. The understory is full of Salmonberries, blueberries, and probably ten other berries.
I believe the totem poles are mostly carved out of the Red Cedar. Ketchikan area has the world's most extensive collection of standing totem poles, both old originals, restored originals, and they are still being created by current master carvers who are passing down the tradition.
The work is done with hand adzes, formerly with stone blades and now with metal chisel-like attachments.
Bear cubs above, and Bear mother below. She's holding her human husband who was a disappointment to her, and so she ripped out his gear. Many of the Totem poles tell stories with moral teachings incorporated, this one taught about fidelity and keeping one's promises.
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Last edited by Harlen on Fri May 05, 2023 12:15 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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grampy
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Re: Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
Looks like you had a really cool trip, Harlen !
And we’re hoping to seeing more of it.
And we’re hoping to seeing more of it.
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Harlen
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Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
Beaver spirit with an upsidedown woman...not sure of the message here.
Fox? Wolf?
My climb of Deer Mountain began on slate and granite, snow-free trails. Soon it was very deep snow.
I brought crampons, ice axe and ski poles for us, and good mountain boots and gaitors. All served us well except for the crampons. Snow shoes would have been a far better choice.
From the summit, looking along the hike I had desired-- called the "Deer Mountain Traverse" which crosses the island in 14 high miles. Without snow shoes it would have been killing hard work. Deer Mountain is just over 3,000' and it was hard enough for me. I went very early to avoid loose snow avie risk and it was in fact a bit dicey near the top. As you see in the photos below, my steps were setting off pretty big rollers, and I was beyond knee-deep. I dug a crude pit and the snow seemed stable enough, at least for old expendable guys like me (I was alone on this climb).
It was a very fun climb and the views were spectacular.
Fox? Wolf?
My climb of Deer Mountain began on slate and granite, snow-free trails. Soon it was very deep snow.
I brought crampons, ice axe and ski poles for us, and good mountain boots and gaitors. All served us well except for the crampons. Snow shoes would have been a far better choice.
From the summit, looking along the hike I had desired-- called the "Deer Mountain Traverse" which crosses the island in 14 high miles. Without snow shoes it would have been killing hard work. Deer Mountain is just over 3,000' and it was hard enough for me. I went very early to avoid loose snow avie risk and it was in fact a bit dicey near the top. As you see in the photos below, my steps were setting off pretty big rollers, and I was beyond knee-deep. I dug a crude pit and the snow seemed stable enough, at least for old expendable guys like me (I was alone on this climb).
It was a very fun climb and the views were spectacular.
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Last edited by Harlen on Fri May 05, 2023 12:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Harlen
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Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
Nathan and I climbed up to a snowy ridge just below Minerva Peak. The weather held for us again, and even cleared more and more after we reached the ridge.
My trailbreaker kicking steps for us.
We shared the ridge with 2 Ptarmigan.
We chose to hike along the ridge instead of slogging to the summit in deep snow.
I was so glad to be up there with Nathan. His passion for fishing and mine for mountaineering came together.
Soon he'll be out on the water helping clients catch fish, and catching his own. The $200.00 fishing license ($100 of which is for the King Salmon tag) is steep, but my son will catch them for us both. My hope is that we will need to buy a freezer for fish soon!
The flight back was in equally clear weather! Happy travels, Ian.
My trailbreaker kicking steps for us.
We shared the ridge with 2 Ptarmigan.
We chose to hike along the ridge instead of slogging to the summit in deep snow.
I was so glad to be up there with Nathan. His passion for fishing and mine for mountaineering came together.
Soon he'll be out on the water helping clients catch fish, and catching his own. The $200.00 fishing license ($100 of which is for the King Salmon tag) is steep, but my son will catch them for us both. My hope is that we will need to buy a freezer for fish soon!
The flight back was in equally clear weather! Happy travels, Ian.
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Harlen
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Re: Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
Grampy wrote:
Thanks Grampy, I got the final parts completed now. Have you guys been to AK too? Then you know that it's hard not to have "a really cool trip" up there. Compared to most parts of the lower 48 States the wildlife habitats in Alaska still contain the full complement of native creatures. It epitomizes the point that a landscape without animals is just scenery. Isn't that what makes traveling in Alaska so special-- the wildlife brings the land to life.Looks like you had a really cool trip, Harlen !
And we’re hoping to seeing more of it.
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Last edited by Harlen on Wed Jun 14, 2023 8:51 am, edited 2 times in total.
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David_Caruso
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Re: Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
Beautiful!!
I actually worked for the Forest Service on Prince of Wales Island and lived in Craig at the bunk house for a couple summers after college in the early 2000s.
What a magical place...been meaning to take my wife up there some year.
I actually worked for the Forest Service on Prince of Wales Island and lived in Craig at the bunk house for a couple summers after college in the early 2000s.
What a magical place...been meaning to take my wife up there some year.
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Harlen
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Re: Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
David_Caruso wrote:
Thanks David, So you know Craig, Alaska-- that's cool! Our son Nathan visits there often on his days off, and says it's a really nice place. He also said that many of his co-workers somehow manage to spend most of their paychecks in the bars there. Did you do that yourself? Luckily Nathan is not inclined that way. If you spent time up there, then you must have had the same amazing wildlife experiences that Nathan now reports to us. He sees Whales nearly every trip on the water, and Orcas, Seals, and Porpoises frequently, and really close! On land, he has enjoyed many sights of Black Bear, and Sitka Deer, and recently he got to watch a Mink hunting in the rocks by the shore. Of course, Bald Eagles are common sights.
Did you fish while you lived there David? Nathan is a mad fisherman, which is why he got the job at the Waterfall Fishing Resort, and he has already accumulated nearly 100 lbs. of assorted fish-- mostly King Salmon, and Halibut, to be frozen and sent home! Much more coming, he says.
We couldn't be happier for our young son; having such adventures, and learning so much. We imagine that your time up there-- two whole summers!, must have been a great time in your life too. Cheers, Ian.
Is Prince of Wales and your town of Craig in this picture David? The view is NW from Deer Mt.Beautiful!! I actually worked for the Forest Service on Prince of Wales Island and lived in Craig at the bunk house for a couple summers after college in the early 2000s.
What a magical place...been meaning to take my wife up there some year.
Thanks David, So you know Craig, Alaska-- that's cool! Our son Nathan visits there often on his days off, and says it's a really nice place. He also said that many of his co-workers somehow manage to spend most of their paychecks in the bars there. Did you do that yourself? Luckily Nathan is not inclined that way. If you spent time up there, then you must have had the same amazing wildlife experiences that Nathan now reports to us. He sees Whales nearly every trip on the water, and Orcas, Seals, and Porpoises frequently, and really close! On land, he has enjoyed many sights of Black Bear, and Sitka Deer, and recently he got to watch a Mink hunting in the rocks by the shore. Of course, Bald Eagles are common sights.
Did you fish while you lived there David? Nathan is a mad fisherman, which is why he got the job at the Waterfall Fishing Resort, and he has already accumulated nearly 100 lbs. of assorted fish-- mostly King Salmon, and Halibut, to be frozen and sent home! Much more coming, he says.
We couldn't be happier for our young son; having such adventures, and learning so much. We imagine that your time up there-- two whole summers!, must have been a great time in your life too. Cheers, Ian.
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David_Caruso
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Re: Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
Hi...just seeing this...sorry about the delay.Harlen wrote: ↑Wed Jun 14, 2023 9:09 am
Is Prince of Wales and your town of Craig in this picture David? The view is NW from Deer Mt.
Thanks David, So you know Craig, Alaska-- that's cool! Our son Nathan visits there often on his days off, and says it's a really nice place. He also said that many of his co-workers somehow manage to spend most of their paychecks in the bars there. Did you do that yourself? Luckily Nathan is not inclined that way. If you spent time up there, then you must have had the same amazing wildlife experiences that Nathan now reports to us. He sees Whales nearly every trip on the water, and Orcas, Seals, and Porpoises frequently, and really close! On land, he has enjoyed many sights of Black Bear, and Sitka Deer, and recently he got to watch a Mink hunting in the rocks by the shore. Of course, Bald Eagles are common sights.
Did you fish while you lived there David? Nathan is a mad fisherman, which is why he got the job at the Waterfall Fishing Resort, and he has already accumulated nearly 100 lbs. of assorted fish-- mostly King Salmon, and Halibut, to be frozen and sent home! Much more coming, he says.
We couldn't be happier for our young son; having such adventures, and learning so much. We imagine that your time up there-- two whole summers!, must have been a great time in your life too. Cheers, Ian.
Nope, Craig is not in that photo.
Ha, yes, there was one bar in Craig ("The Hill" if I recall correctly), walking distance from the bunkhouse and we definitely went a lot but just like on Friday nights. This was like summers of 2003 and 2004. There was classic rock coverband that would play and some of the commercial fisherman would come in (with clearly mail order Russian brides...for real, we talked to them).
So, yeah, I worked for the Tongass National Forest on the "Timber Sale Layout Crew" and during the week we lived on a remote barge and got taken to work location in a Hughes 500 helicopter.
Also, one summer, I got selected and put into a crew to fight a tundra fire and got to camp out along the Yukon River...see Moose etc.
Saw tons and tons of black bears. Lots Fisher and Marten and of course tons of fishing/crabbing...it's just silly how easy the fishing is up there.
Did have one amazing experience with wolves and from the barge got this seem on a nearby beach gather up and do a big howl.
Here are some pics from summer 2004...a very young me in one of the pics.
This is the Barge-dorm that we stayed at during the week for work.
Getting dropped daily in the muskegs...me in the front.
Landing on the Barge for a pick-up
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Harlen
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Re: Ketchikan Alaska- Warblers, Eagles, Orca- Oh My!
David_Caruso wrote:
Our son Nathan is still up there, and he too says he is seeing "tons of Black Bear!" Here's a short video he just sent us of a bear scavenging a dead Halibut: ........ Damn! No hope of downsizing it to fit. Imagine a glossy young Black Bear ambling along the shoreline, coming up to a big, bright white dead Halibut; grabbing it with it's teeth, and then pulling it apart. Nathan got to see this from very close up.
Looks like you had an adventurous time in Southeast Alaska David. Cool to see all of that wildlife. Thanks for writing back with your comments....I worked for the Tongass National Forest on the "Timber Sale Layout Crew" and during the week we lived on a remote barge and got taken to work location in a Hughes 500 helicopter.
Also, one summer, I got selected and put into a crew to fight a tundra fire and got to camp out along the Yukon River...see Moose etc.
Saw tons and tons of black bears. Lots Fisher and Marten and of course tons of fishing/crabbing...it's just silly how easy the fishing is up there.
Did have one amazing experience with wolves and from the barge got this seem on a nearby beach gather up and do a big howl.
Our son Nathan is still up there, and he too says he is seeing "tons of Black Bear!" Here's a short video he just sent us of a bear scavenging a dead Halibut: ........ Damn! No hope of downsizing it to fit. Imagine a glossy young Black Bear ambling along the shoreline, coming up to a big, bright white dead Halibut; grabbing it with it's teeth, and then pulling it apart. Nathan got to see this from very close up.
Properly trained, a man can be dog’s best friend.
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