San Joaquin bridge washout?

[sbennett3705]

Here’s a re-post from Ned Tibbits on the Facebook JMT group from two days ago:

PCT/JMT SEKI damaged bridge re-routes:

The online, greater hiking community contains many wise and savvy professionals who are great at figuring out the possible re-routes around this bridge outage. There are incredible statisticians, technicians, cartographers, and expeditionaries in this community who have far more resources and experience with these matters than I do. And, I'm sure the USFS and NPS will chime in with their suggested choices or regulate where you can go to solve this problem...but there is a bridge over the South Fork of the San Jouquin (SFSJ) River that got damaged this winter and is no longer safe for hikers to use!

Nevertheless, this is how I see the NoBo (if you're SoBo through the area, consider these choices in reverse) re-route choices around this damaged bridge on the PCT/JMT:

1) Bishop Pass/Piute Pass go-around:

Obviously, this puppy will add tons of elevation gain and loss to go over two major east-west Sierra passes, additional time, and, maybe, even some road walking to pull off...but it would all be on established trails and surfaces along the way. No major creek crossings without intact bridges, but lots of little ones to wade through.

2) Wanda-Davis cross-country to the SFSJ River in Goddard Canyon:

With this one, hikers have to be savvy with route-finding, as there is no graded trail to follow, but the general direction is pretty straight-forward. There will be, either, lots of snow-ramps or boulders, bushes, and brief cliffs to negotiate, depending on the time of the spring/summer you are there. If you are comfortable in knowing where you are based on topographic awareness (do you know where you are based on what you see around you?), this isn't a bad choice, but...

a) getting around Davis Lake's steep, lakeside talus fields may not be the easiest,

b) if you cross Goddard Creek, the broken bridge, down below, is your only way back across the SFSJ river - so not good!

c) if you don't cross Goddard Creek where Davis's outflow drains into it and stay on the east side all the way down the drainage, you'll have to cross Evolution Creek below the cascades - maybe not possible!

3) stay on the NoBo PCT/JMT into Evolution Valley and at the summer crossing attempt a risky east-side-of-the-cascades cross-country descent into the SFSJ drainage to reconnect with the trail at the bridge. I do not recommend this alternate as it is very steep and over hazardous surfaces. It is short and tempting, but not worth a slip and fall! This is an option, only, but let's rule this one out!

4) again, stay on the NoBo PCT/JMT into and through Evolution Valley, make the deep wade of the creek in the meadow, and catch the summer trail down the west side of the cascades and on down to the SFSJ drainage...but don't cross on the intact bridge. Stay on the east side of the SFSJ river and attempt to re-cross Evolution Creek below the cascades, then follow the east side of the SFSJ river on down to the damaged bridge (which you won't have to cross).

Review:

The only re-route that is appropriate for basic backpackers is #1, the Bishop Pass/Piute Pass graded hiking trail and established road walks between the two pass's trailheads. It offers beautiful scenery, that is for sure, but it will take longer, require more fuel and food, and may mess with your permit (I have no clue), but it is the safest route to take with the least snow-hiking and creek crossing. If you plan for this re-route and are savvy with over-snow travel and making safe "creek" (not "river") crossings (which you have probably had to do just to get there this year's hiking season after such a huge winter), you will enjoy this alternate route.

All the other alternate route choices will involve cross-country experience over potentially steep and dangerous snow and boulders, lots of little creek crossings, and a potentially impossible crossing of Evolution Creek below its cascades and near the main flow of the SFSJ river.

I'm sure SEKI and Inyo will chime in on what they want you to do, so wait for that and plan accordingly. Of course, you can always skip doing the JMT this summer and go take a cruise, instead...

Now...there are two other cross-country re-routes that are harder, but any evaluation of possibilities would not be complete without them, so here goes,

a) by doing 2b and 4, above, you can access the Hell-for-Sure Pass trail out of upper Goddard canyon and over to the western slope to continue, then, north and cross-country past Red Mountain and Mount Henry, walking by Lower and Upper Indian Lakes, to slide through an unnamed pass above the Muir Trail Ranch. Sounds simple, but you'll have to ford the mighty SFSJ River (to the north and below that unnamed pass) where its flow rate and volume may be horrendous. This is a viable route with a rough ending.

b) staying on the NoBo PCT/JMT past options #1 & 2, depart the trail near the outflow of Evolution Lake and head cross-country northwest, up into Darwin Basin to make the short, but steep climb over Alpine Col to drop down onto Goethe Lake, cruise through Humphrey's Basin, and descend Piute Creek to reconnect with the PCT/JMT just north of the broken bridge at the Park Boundary, right before Muir Trail Ranch. This is as viable a cross-country route as #2, but without the potentially deadly crossing of Evolution Creek below its cascades. It is better than #2, but it does have a pretty steep ascent/descent through Alpine Col to negotiate. Not for your average backpacker.

[Wandering Daisy]

Just adding information regarding Lemark Col; I went over it in early August in a high snow year 1997? It was solid snow and icy. I had crampons. There were steps already made but slippery. Microspikes probably would work. At any rate, expect snow on the east side most of the summer.

That same trip, I went around Davis Lake and there were steep snowfields, and almost solid snow in Ionian Basin. The creek that flows down to Chasm Lake still had a thin snow bridge over it. I would guess this year, that the east side of Hell for Sure Pass will also hold snow until late.

[paul]

Daisy is right about the east side of HFS Pass, could be significant snow there. If there is snow on the trail lower down where it does the long traverse that may require careful route finding. Once the trail makes the turn and really starts to climb it is simpler, just follow the drainage up and it would be hard to miss the pass. For the more advanced XC traveler there is an alternate saddle just south of HFS that i used on skis in late May of 2011. It is due east of Horseshoe Lake, and iI think it is gentler on both sides than HFS if you pick your route carefully. In solid snow I would go that way for sure, but identifying where to leave the trail for it is not a simple matter.
Also, and separately, I don't think anyone should consider going through Mosquito Pass and dropping to the river there. I do not believe there is going to be any safe place to cross the SJ down there without a bridge.
Regarding a Davis Lakes option - the more snow there is, the better that route is. With solid snow coverage the talus goes away, and there is a moderately angled chute that takes you up from the little lake southeast of point 11462 and gives you access to the plateau of little lakes that where you can head south for Lake 11184 and Martha. Came that way in the other direction on skis in 2011, no cornice at the top of the chute, only a short steep bit at the top. Crampons would be a good idea.
On a broader level, my opinion is that anyone intending to attempt the JMT this year before September should have some experience with and/or training for travel on steep snow. Even if you get lucky and find a deep trench worn in the snow everywhere you go, there are still things you should know that you can't learn without getting out and doing it.

[SweetSierra]

Daisy, I was there in August 1997 with a group that attempted to hike into Ionian Basin. We couldn't cross Evolution Creek at the trail (it was raging and impassable), so side-hilled our way past a flooded lower Evolution Valley and climbed off-trail to Davis Lakes. From there, we encountered those steep snowfields you mention. No one carried microspikes or crampons. I have a photo somewhere of our climb up from Davis Lakes. One of our group twisted her leg in the snow and as we stood at the base of Martha Lake Pass in a thunderstorm, it was decided it was too risky to try to go into Ionian. From your description, it sounds like Ionian (which usually holds snow anyway) would have been too difficult.

On the way out (after exploring Darwin Bench), we swam with packs over our heads across a slow-moving Evolution Creek at an oxbow in a meadow in lower Evolution Valley, walked over an island, and dunked ourselves again in a deep streamlet off Evolution Creek, and side-hilled again until we reached the trail.

[Gogd]

Any of the XC routes detouring west of this section of the JMT/PCT will be Big Boy routes this season, surely suitable only for trekkers who have a lot of steep snow and ice travel under their belt. It is one thing to gut out a push over a pass or two in such conditions, but the sheer amount of time one can expect to be dealing with these circumstances alludes only folks who have attained the efficiency, inventory of techniques and discipline necessary to safely conduct sustained efforts of this nature should consider the remote XC detours west of the JMT/PCT that are suggested in this thread.

There is going to be snow on a bunch of passes this season. The list of snow free passes probably will be shorter than the list that is snow/ice bound for much of the season. Like Paul, I prefer more snow, than less. Too little snow on sloping terrain has you navigating talus and boulder field slopes hiding voids, where the hapless trekker may plunge through and get injured in a very remote location. Medium residual snow lacks the mass to conduct melt water volume without becoming completely saturated, generating solid ice during the nightly freeze. At least a deep snow field stands the chance of presenting a hard crust snow under foot, versus hard ice and bobby trap voids.

Lastly my vote is for real crampons, especially this season. Get aluminum crampons if obsessing over base weight. Cutting ounces is not worth the tradeoff when safety is paramount. Microspikes were originally intended for safe travel of icy sidewalks and parking lots back in town, not steep inclines. They can work in a pinch, however, but it is a game of odds. Microspikes are known to break or become unshod in these settings, because they are not designed for the force mountainous terrain imposes on the rubber rands. It is a wager I'd not venture, if I was betting on them to get me over many hours of mountainous snow and ice terrain.

Ed

[Gogd]

..On the way out (after exploring Darwin Bench), we swam with packs over our heads across a slow-moving Evolution Creek at an oxbow in a meadow in lower Evolution Valley, walked over an island, and dunked ourselves again in a deep streamlet off Evolution Creek, and side-hilled again until we reached the trail.

A few years ago I traveled the length of Evolution Valley along the south side, crossing at the top of the valley, upstream of the Darwin Creek confluence. There are areas there where the stream cuts a narrow channel. One may exploit a log crossing such cuts; alternatively it is possible to create such a crossing from the ample downed wood in the nearby area. I was able to avoid deep wades of the tributaries crossed en route by finding crossing points somewhat up the valley hillsides. (I hate cold water!) McGee Canyon Creek was the only one that proved challenging.

Ed

[wildhiker]

In 2004, a lower than normal snowpack year, I hiked the JMT up the South Fork San Joaquin River gorge where the damaged bridge is located. I took the photo below looking upstream no more than 1/2 mile below the location of that damaged bridge on August 5, 2004. The river looks eminently wadeable to me under those low flow conditions. The question for this year is when will the flow will be low enough to wade the river in the vicinity of the damaged bridge? September?

-Phil

6073-John Muir Trail ascending South Fork San Joaquin River gorge.JPG

[commonloon]

It seems like Piute Canyon to Alpine Col or Lamarck Col then back to JMT (or reverse if Nobo) would be the best work arounds. Lamarck while adding miles is relatively low angle.

How is Hutchinson Meadow during melt?

[Wandering Daisy]

Hutchinson crossings are very braided and you would have lots of wading, but probably easier than the equivalent of crossing in Evolution Valley. The PCT hikers are pretty good at crossings by the time they get that far north.

[commonloon]

Hutchinson crossings are very braided and you would have lots of wading, but probably easier than the equivalent of crossing in Evolution Valley.

Thanks WD! That's what it looks like from the topo, but I've never been thru.

I'm planning on taking my son this year on parts of the JMT/SHR/SSHR (Sobo) so going to plan on this as an alternative to Puppet Pass, depending on conditions.