Shasta disaster article

[CAMERONM]

Good article, and a mention about "Roping Up".
https://www.latimes.com/california/stor ... at-we-know

"Roping up is one of the most “controversial and contentious” acts in climbing, according to Takeda. If he weren’t absolutely confident in a climbing partner’s ability, he wouldn’t tie himself to them even in moderate terrain. “You’re basically doubling the opportunity to fall.”

Jillian Webster’s older brother Jordan, himself an experienced climber, wonders if his sister would still be alive if they hadn’t roped up. The technique provides a “false sense of security” for the clients, he said, who spend maybe an hour practicing their self-arrest on low-angle terrain, but have no idea how fast things will happen in a real fall.

“If you can’t do it yourself, you probably shouldn’t be there,” Jordan said.

It’s unlikely that guiding companies will discontinue the practice, since the industry is built upon taking people to places they shouldn’t be on their own."

[Gogd]

Can't view OP's link - paywall issues.
Below is an assessable link to a generic version of the article, similar to versions published by myriad media content providers. It does not include Takada's or Jordan's remarks.
https://www.latimes.com/california/stor ... -injures-5

The incident happened in June, 2022.

Articles from other sources all go on to state there were multiple rescues around this date, and additional incidents occurring at the ski resort. "Water ice" was the common factor leading to these incidents. The snowpack was glazed over at the end of a previous storm, by a rain that had subsequently frozen, creating a sheet of solid ice on top of the snowpack. The authorities closed the mountain after these incidents, citing conditions were extremely difficult, even for professional climbers. The conditions as described are very challenging, high altitude mountaineers often encounter these exact conditions, normally without consequence, IF they were properly prepared.

I was not able to find a resource that included Takada's remarks. His comments may be out of context. I have heard similar remarks in the mountaineering community, refusing to rope up with unskilled/reckless climbers, in the context of fellow climbers in unguided climbs, but never in the context of a guide service hosted event. If a guide considered it too risky to rope into their clients it makes you wonder if they lack confidence in their ability as a guide, or they are knowingly leading a climb they know is beyond the skills of the clients to safely complete.

I understand Jordan's sorrow, but his musings are "Monday quarterbacking" after the fact, in absence of critical information. Some details at the time these articles were published were unknown: what triggered the fall; what was the terrain at the spot of the triggering event; and what precautionary measures did the guide take, in addition to roping the party together? Guides always have the final say, and can cancel an event for safety or other reasons, but then they often lose the fee commission for that trip, so guides often are compelled to commit to a trek because they have bills to pay. Ultimately assessing the safety of the group considers the physical conditions of the route and other objective risk factors, as well as the capabilities of the clients. Some guides spend several hours drilling clients on self arrests, ice belays and crevice rescue skills, as these are hazardous situations and incapable climbers can turn a frightening incident into a tragedy. But I am also aware of instances where guides put minimal effort into even the mandatory, pre-climb preparation of clients. Ultimately the guide calls the shots, regarding how the climb is conducted, and are almost always held accountable for any consequences, so I question why Jordan grouses over his sister's fate, inferring the clients are somehow to blame. We could also blame the authorities for allowing folks up on the mountain, the company that employs the guide, and any target an ambulance chasing lawyer can get a bead on. It does not change the fact the clients were Ok with the adventure, and the guide was willing to guide these clients in those conditions. Nevertheless it is a sad milestone for the kin of these souls and the climbing community.

Ed