Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

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Sierraholic2
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Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by Sierraholic2 »

Just returned from a 3 day, 2 night trip in Desolation Wilderness with a long time teaching friend to kick off our summers. It was a really tough 20+ mile loop from Van Vleck Trailhead. We visited Forni Lake, Highland Lake, Lake Zitella, Horseshoe Lake, McConnell Lakes, Leland Lakes, and Lake #3. We utilized two unnamed passes to create this loop (passes betweeen Tells Peak and McConnell Peak, and Silver Peak and Red Peak). We thought they should be named Highland Pass and Leland Pass due to the proximity to the beautiful lakes on the eastern side of the passes. Here is a play by play of the 3 days.

Day 1 (6/2): Met in western El Dorado County to start the trek up highway 50. Made it to Van Vleck Trailhead by 8:45 am. Started the dirt road walk for the first mile until we branched off onto Highland Lake Trail. With a map and wood trail markers, easy to figure out which trail to take. Nice steady climb for the next 2 miles. The last mile into Forni Lake was steeper and filled with pockets of snow drifts. Nothing too annoying! Stopped for early lunch at Forni Lake about noon. Pretty little lake with lots of 8-12 inch brook trout. Very minimal mosquitoes mid-day. We started the off trail portion of the trip at this point. Much of the initial climb around the southside of Forni Lake was snowdrift walking. Finally on the more rocky slopes headed up towards the pass between Tells Peak and McConnell Peak, the snow was sparse and easy to avoid. Made it to the pass about 2 pm. The views east into Highland Lake´s granitic bowl was amazing! Lots of granite with accents of snow. We could even see the northern half of Lake Tahoe. The initial 200 foot down the eastside of the pass was sandy mixed with scree. Eventually, it turned into a zigzag down granitic shelves. Nothing exposed or dangerous, definitely class 2! By 3:30 PM, we made it to beautiful Highland Lake. We camped on a higher shelf 200 feet from the lake on the northwestern part of the lake to minimize potential mosquitoes. Nice sandy sites with room for 2-3 small tents (1-2 person tents). There was an awesome set of cascades and waterfalls near our campsite that made for a great hangout spot to relax and eat meals. This lake and general area was as beautiful as many parts of the Eastern Sierra, including parts of the JMT.
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Day 2 (6/3): Left camp by 9 am to head cross country southeast to Lake Zitella and back on trail near Horseshoe Lakes. Passed by quite a few potential campsites near the outlet of the lake. The initial descent down the creek out of Highland Lake was stunning. Pretty little cascades and waterfalls abound! The wildflowers are just starting to bloom. Should be stunning in the next few weeks! We contoured around some cliffy areas to a notch that funnelled up to Lake Zitella. It is a pretty lake, but a step down from Highland Lake. We hiked up to the low pass south of Lake Zitella to overlook Rockbound Valley and the McConnell Loop region of lakes. The views were great with scenery like Dicks Peak, Mt. Tallac, and unnamed waterfalls falling into the creeks and lakes below us. We were pretty tired from being off trail, so we were ready for some easy trail miles to recover before going off trail again. I had read the trail through this area was hard to find. Couple this with lots of snow, we rarely found the trail from Horseshoe lakes to Leland Lakes. We meandered in the general direction we were supposed to go, but expended alot of energy weaving around and over snow drifts and willowy creeks areas. The highlight was a 500 foot cascading waterfall between Horseshoe Lakes and McConnell Lakes. As pretty as anything throughout the Sierra! Finally by 3 PM, we reached the saddle north of Leland Lakes, and our exit point from the supposed trail to the off trail/cross country trudge up to the pass due west of Leland Lakes, between Silver and Red Peaks. We were pretty beat, but slowly slogged up the steep slope, jumping back and forth between rocky slabs and talus and large patches of snow. The snow was soft, but not so bad that we postholed (if we stayed away from trees and the edges of boulders). Like the other pass to Highland Lake, this was class 2, with no exposure or anything dangerous. Made it to the pass about 4:30 PM and started down to Lake #3. Aim for the north shore of Lake #3, as you will get cliffed out on the southeast shore. Found some nice sandy campsites on the southside of the lake near the trail. Lake #3 was very buggy! Mosquito nets were a must!

Day 3 (6/4): We were ready for an easy 7 mile high downhill hike on trail by 8 am and to In-n-Out burger in Placerville. We jinxed ourselves. Within a mile of leaving Lake #3, we began encountering dozens of winter blow downs of pine trees for the next 4-5 miles. We went over, under, and around probably 40 trees ranging from 6 inches to 30 inches in diameter trees. I fell twice and face planted tripping over limbs and debris. Add mosquitoes from the snow melt, and the hike out was not fun. Lots of hiking in trees with minimal views. I would avoid this trail for the foreseeable future due to the blow downs. It will take years to clear this trail. Finally about 11 am, we made it to the car. Whew...that was a much tougher day than we planned!

Overall, a really great trip! Without snow, the blowdowns, etc., this would have been much easier! If I did it again, I would go later season, and avoid Lake #3 area. Maybe exit from Leland Lakes to Lake Schmidell to Rockbound Pass and Wrights Lake and do a shuttle. Or loop back down Rockbound Valley toward Loon Lake.
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Re: Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by Wandering Daisy »

I am not seeing your photos.

Where is the Van Vleck trailhead relative to Loon Lake?
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Re: Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by balzaccom »

South and a bit east, Daisy. Just west of Shadow Lake
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Re: Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by Sierraholic2 »

WD,
It is off a forest road between Union Valley Reservoir and Loon Lake. I cut my Christmas tree off the same road last year. It is just northeast of Lower Bassi Falls, where everyone flocks this time of year. There is a WWII era B-17 crash site near the trailhead. Not sure how to make these pictures show up from my Google Drive. Have not done it before.
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Re: Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by neil d »

I remember seeing this TR earlier this year. I am contemplating a similar trip to see some of the west side lakes. Would like to go to Forni, and then follow the crest south to Lake #3...then also check out Lawrence and Barrett Lakes.

Wondering if anyone has first hand knowledge of the Crystal Range crest between Forni Lake and Lake #3? Looks pretty good on satellite, and only a couple of miles. I could always bail to the east if necessary, and I know that side pretty well.
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Re: Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by giantbrookie »

neil d wrote: Thu Aug 05, 2021 5:12 pm I remember seeing this TR earlier this year. I am contemplating a similar trip to see some of the west side lakes. Would like to go to Forni, and then follow the crest south to Lake #3...then also check out Lawrence and Barrett Lakes.

Wondering if anyone has first hand knowledge of the Crystal Range crest between Forni Lake and Lake #3? Looks pretty good on satellite, and only a couple of miles. I could always bail to the east if necessary, and I know that side pretty well.
There is a trip report posted about a full Crystal Range ridge traverse at: http://peaksforfreaks.blogspot.com/2015 ... verse.html

This shows the degree of difficulty along the crest of the ridge, but it is under winter conditions with snow covering much of the ridgetop. It looks like the ridge shouldn't be too technical except for the SE ridge of Tell Peak above the Tells-Mc Connell saddle. This presents a bit of a problem if you're trying to mount the ridge from Forni L. and get to McConnell Pk. I think the best solution (from the topo map) is to head south from Forni onto the ridge south of the lake and ascend it to and elevation of about 8350' before descending to the unnamed pond in the basin to the south, then ascending the west slope of McConnell Pk to the crest of the ridge and following it until at the saddle NNE of Lake No.3. The one uncertainty in this which isn't easily answered by the views of the snow-covered terrain in the winter traverse report is how bad the brush is. I've done a lot of off trail stuff in this area and I've encountered some pretty bad brush on some of my routes.

Regarding N-S off trail routes in this area, in 2005 I did an early season trip (lots of snow) that on day 1 went from Van Vleck to Shadow L., then off trail to Huth L (SE of Shadow L) then across the ridge north of Tells Pk to Highland L. On day 2 I went to Zitella, Horseshoe and McConnell, then descended east toward the 4-Qs but found them really buggy so I camped high on the ridge SE of the 4Qs . On day 3 I went to Schmidell up over the ridge to Top Lake following the approximate route of the Red Peak stock trail that was buried under the snow at that time. Day 4 exited to Van by way of Lawrence with a little detour to No.3. This is a fun area to do off trail hiking but there can be patches of brush to hack through---the Shadow-Huth-Highland traverse had some brushy spots.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by neil d »

GB, thanks much for the response! And also thanks for that report. You are correct, the SE rib on the way up to Tells looks a bit dicey! So hard to tell from Google Earth, but the photo from that Peaks for Freaks report tells the story. Your suggestion to stay west of that section and come back to the ridge at McConnell looks like a good one.

I saw your report of your loop from Shadow Lake across to Highland lake et al. Looks like a great hike, but I am skewing towards fishing for this short trip. In your estimation, is that foolish for this area, late in a low snow year? And I'm wondering if the historical intel on some of these lakes (Forni, Number 3, Top, Lawrence, even Shadow) holds up, especially the reports of fish other than brookies in Number 3...
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Re: Desolation Wilderness Off Trail Adventure, 6/2-6/4 Trail Report

Post by tomba »

The photos don't show because the links in the "img" tags are not to the photos but to the pages that contain the photos. I can't find a way to get links to the photos in Google Drive. Here are the links to the photo pages in this trip report:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r9URxM ... l-_i7/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yEyyEi ... WmaIw/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-U-k2q ... jm15k/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CYkftZ ... bRiAf/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DOb9Nu ... 873Lp/view
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