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CAMERONM wrote: ↑Wed May 05, 2021 8:55 pm
@unreal_ishan
The approach to Langley is class 2 and gets full-on sun, so from what I see here I bet you won't even need the micro-spikes.
I'll just add, in my opinion, the crux of the Langley summit is probably not going to be final bit of climbing because it's entirely south facing but rather getting on top of the ridge via New or Old Army pass trails. Based on satellite and the pictures above, Old Army looks completely socked in with snow while New Army looks like it only has the cornice at the top, which is a PITA to get up and over. You'll have to make the decision on which way you're going to go... Old Army will definitely require spikes and will be uncomfortable for those not used to walking on steep snow covered slopes.
Here is a TR of the same area with probably a similar amount of snow. The last image is the cornice that lingers on New Army... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=21337
I went over New Army Pass again August 13, 2019 (high snow year) and the cornice was there! There now is a "work around" use trail. It takes off from the ne end of a switchback, maybe the large one shown on the map. Then you traverse (sort of a little ledge system) northeast maybe 500 feet, go around a little ridge and then up a short stretch of steep gully (maybe class 2) that eases off nearing the top. If the base of the cornice covers the switchback, then you may have to climb snow. There are more detailed descriptions and photos on the internet of this use-trail. I am not sure why I never took a photo when I was up there in 2019.
At first I missed the little trail and shortly was stopped by snow. I walked back down looking closer and found it. Pretty obvious- do not know why I missed it.
Edit - I failed to read the OP’s statement that there is NO cornice this year, and then went and posted a bunch of photos of the cornice (and necessary trail workaround) from 2019. Deleted them now, to avoid any confusion for current conditions (apologies!).
