Point Reyes 5/1-2

[Wandering Daisy]

Point Reyes 5/1-2/2017

While hauling grandkids to Little League ball games at Point Reyes Station on Saturday, we stopped at the visitor center and I checked on the permit situation. Annoyingly, they do not open until 10AM for permits on weekdays, but there were enough open campsites that I decided it was worth the drive back on Monday for an overnight trip before I returned to Sacramento.

Monday I got the last site at Wildcat. The plan was to day-hike to Tomales Point and walk into Wildcat campground late afternoon. At 10:15 I drove up the road and was on the trail at 11:00AM. Evidently the last bit of use-trail to the exact endpoint fell into the ocean this winter, shortening the hike a bit. It was a perfect day, bright, sunny, no fog, and a light cool breeze. Wildflowers were great, but probably peaked a week ago. The trail starts at a historical ranch site with huge Eucylptus trees.

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Start at the ranch

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Great view early in the hike

Soon I ran into the cow elk munching on the grass close to the trail on the first hill. The bull elk with antlers in velvet were hanging out on the hill above the pond. I walked about half a mile on the use-trail until it became totally overgrown with sufficient nettles that I decided to turn around. The shortened hike was about 8.5 miles.

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Cow Elk

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Then the bulls in velvet

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Flowers along the use-trail that continues past the maintained trail

I quickly drove back to the Bear Valley trailhead, changed clothes and headed down the trail at 3:15, taking the shortest route via Glen Trail (6.3 miles) and arrived shortly before 6PM. The campground was seriously overgrown with shoulder high flowers embedded with horrible plants with huge stickers. Half an hour thrashing through the tall grass and I still could not find campsite #8! Frustrated, I tried one last tunnel trail and there it was, NOT where the sign said it was. It was basically a twin site to #4 and since the guys there set their tent in my site. From a distance it looked like one site. They moved one tent so I could have my spot. I felt a bit like a party-crasher as they were all young fathers out on a “man-trip” for a break from kids and work.

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campsite

I went to the beach in time for sunset photos. Then I cooked dinner and was in the tent by 9PM. A huge group of 8th graders were at the adjacent group site, but their teachers made sure they were quiet by 9PM (thank-you teachers!). The” man-trip” guys did not even snore either, so I had a peaceful night.

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Tuesday morning I slept in, until sun hit the site. I needed to wait anyway as low tide was 10:45 and walking to Alamere Falls is much easier at low tide. It was a beautiful morning. The falls remained in shadows the entire time I was there, perhaps just as well for photos anyway.

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Playing in the ocean foam on the way to the falls

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Alemere Falls in the distance

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Falls up close

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Flowers at Wildcat camp

Back at camp I packed up and left at 11AM, returning the longer route via Coast Trail. It was really hot with no breeze until I hit the bluff above the coast. It seemed more uphill than I had remembered. The trail was overgrown and the grass full of ticks. About every 100 feet I would reach down and flick ticks off my legs. While taking a lunch break I spotted three whales spouting, too far out for photos. An English couple came along and we shared this whale-watching experience. The walk out seemed longer than usual, but this was my first backpack of the season and the heat was nearly unbearable. I was out by 3:30 and back at my daughter’s in San Anselmo at 4PM. After quickly picking up my stuff and good-by hugs with the grandkids, I hit the road just in time to get stuck in horrible traffic. The 37-212(Speedway) intersection was terrible-nearly 45 minutes to get two miles. Thankfully smooth sailing after that. Views of the snowy Sierra were great. There is plenty of water in the bypass too.

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Flowers on the Coast Trail

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Whales out there off the Coast Trail

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Bear Creek bridge

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Bear Valley Trail

A warning about Point Reyes: weekends are hideously crowded. They had 1,500 visitors on Saturday! Due to funding cuts, and stupid regulations you cannot get your permit, even if you reserve, until 10AM on weekdays, 9AM weekends. They do put out that day’s permits in a pick-up box (if you call ahead) if you arrive after 5PM, but will not put out a permit for the next day. Just be sure you plan for this. Luckily there are plenty of day-hikes to do before they open at 10AM. I had not been to Tomales Point in many years and forgot what a wonderful hike it is. Flowers have already peaked and likely will be very wilted in a week or so. Ticks and mosquitoes are out as well as the glossy oily poison oak. The vegetation has really taken off this spring. Many trails are very overgrown at this point.

[Tom_H]

Enjoyed, thanks! I remember Galen Rowel saying how great it was to live in the Bay Area because he could be on a choice of many trails in a short time, helping stay in shape for the bigger adventures.

I believe they maintain some of their trails through dense brush using a small tractor with a boom arm mounted flail mower. Some of that stuff is really dense.

[gary c.]

What a great way to spend a couple of days.

[rhyang]

Great photos. I haven't been backpacking at Pt Reyes for sixteen years, and forgot how nice it was in the springtime.

[maiathebee]

Gorgeous! I'm heading out there in a couple days. Nice to see your report so I know to be extra vigilant for ticks.

[neil d]

Thanks for the photos! That is a lot of water at Alamere Falls.

I love Wildcat for the more rustic vibe of that stretch of beach, but for years have been bike camping at Coast Camp...site 14 on December 30 is a multi-year tradition. Yes, it is 'man-camping' for a break from the holiday madness...and yes, we snore...

[BigMan]

Thanks for the report, photos, and vital info about one of my favorite places.

Site 8 is formerly site 4B.

A few years ago, my wife and I were camping at Wildcat 6 when a gentlemen approached, asking us if we knew where site 8 was.

I had camped at WC for years and never heard of site 8. I thought we was just trying to crash the place, but he showed me his permit and there it was. He never found site "8" because no one had replaced "4B" with "8" at the site. He ended up crashing on the beach.

When we returned to Bear Valley, I asked the ranger about this. He told me they had to convert 4B to 8 after they began using reserveramerica.com to book reservations. Then he asked me to complain to reserveamerica about it. Strange.

[giantbrookie]

What a beautiful trip, and such a nice variety of sights.