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Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

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Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby bcrowell » Tue Jul 15, 2014 4:44 pm

Can anyone recommend a class 3/4 thirteener in the southeastern Sierra with good rock quality? In this area, it seems like class 3 is often a euphemism for slogging your way up a chute full of loose debris that's reminiscent of the scene in Star Wars where Luke Skywalker et al. are trapped inside a trash compactor. I spent some time browsing the SPS list of "Mountaineer's Peaks,"
http://www.summitpost.org/sps-mountaine ... aks/311165 ,
but it was difficult to pick out which ones weren't in the trash compactor category. The east ridge of Mt. Russell (which I've done) would be an example of a classic climb of the type I'm looking for.



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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby giantbrookie » Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:40 pm

I'd vote for Mt. LeConte, although it's nearly 14k (13960). Even the easiest route has some interesting and very solid 3rd class. There is some controversy as to what that hardest move on the 'easy route' should be rated (the notorious Waterfall Pitch) and this overshadows the fact that there are additional class 3 moves on solid rock above it. There are other routes (class 3 and harder) on the peak that have a good reputation, too. I haven't done Mt. McAdie, but it too has a reputation for quality 3rd and 4th class routes.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html
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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby longri » Wed Jul 16, 2014 8:12 am

Mt. Carl Heller
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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby bcrowell » Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:09 am

Thanks for the suggestions. Just to clarify, by "13er" I meant at least 13, not between 13 and 14. I don't have anything against doing a 14er.
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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby brvoyles » Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:43 pm

Mt Johnson has an excellent class 3 route, but it does fall a couple hundred feet short of 13k and is a bit further north.

University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.

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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby bcrowell » Thu Jul 17, 2014 1:44 pm

brvoyles wrote:University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.


Thanks for the suggestions. Which route on University Peak do you have in mind? http://www.summitpost.org/university-pe ... #chapter_4
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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby giantbrookie » Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:53 pm

bcrowell wrote:
brvoyles wrote:University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.


Thanks for the suggestions. Which route on University Peak do you have in mind? http://www.summitpost.org/university-pe ... #chapter_4


Of the class 3 routes, the one with the least crummy approach may be the north face route (see Secor 2nd ed. p. 142, but I haven't done that one (I did an entirely class 2 route from the north that hooked around to the other side--this route isn't listed in any guidebooks).
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html
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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby brvoyles » Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:25 am

bcrowell wrote:
brvoyles wrote:University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.


Thanks for the suggestions. Which route on University Peak do you have in mind? http://www.summitpost.org/university-pe ... #chapter_4


North Face.
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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby sparky » Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:50 am

University views are great, but expect crapola on the approach
There is a million ways to be human, all are worthwhile.

True happiness is the absence of striving for happiness.
-Chuang Tzu.
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Re: Class 3/4 13er in southeastern Sierra with good rock quality

Postby bcrowell » Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:11 am

Thanks, all, for the suggestions! I have a permit out of Onion Valley for Aug 4, will try to do the north face of University Peak.
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