I want my first view of the big walls to not be from the Valley.

[Loseyourself]

I'm 45 and have been all over the world but have never seen Yosemite. I'm going to rectify that in mid-May with a 7 day backpacking trip (hopefully -weather and snow depending.).

But I've got this idea that I don't want my first view of the big walls to not be from a car on a paved road, probably behind an RV. I hope this doesn't sound overly romantic, but I'd like my first view to be out from a more natural state, which I assume means avoiding driving into the valley.

Where could I start to avoid the Valley and hike to the rim?

Also, is it possible in mid-May in a high snow year? I don't mind some snowshoeing. Don't want to drown crossing a creek. I know that's not the ideal time but it's what I've got. (I've been getting some help from some other threads. Many thanks.)

While I'm here - what's the best trail book for Yosemite?

[Wandering Daisy]

Assuming Glacier Point Road is open, drive in from the south (Fresno), turn onto Glacier Point Road, park at Taft Point parking, walk about a mile to Taft Point (best lighting mid morning to noon). That will be first view w/o cars, but you would have other people. Then go to Glacier Point (will have to ride shuttle bus). On way back to Valley stop at Tunnel View.

If instead you want to see the Valley without people are around you, instead hike to Stanford Point and Dewey Point(longer hike than Taft but fewer people). You can camp at Bridalveil Creek and then hike up to many viewpoints.

Glacier Point gets plowed before Tioga Road. Even if not fully plowed, you can hike or snowshoe to Stanford or Dewey Points because the road is open to the Ski area. No trail, but cross country from there.

[bobby49]

Your idea might be good, but not in mid-May for 2019. Late June of a normal year would be about right.

[Loseyourself]

Thanks all. I didn’t make it clear that this could be as part of a 7 day backpacking trip. If it took a few days to get to the rim, that’s fine.

I know the season is the issue but I’m interested in any options you guys think might be possible.

[bobby49]

If the Tamarack Flat Campground is open (and that is a big IF), you start there, go the first few miles on an old fire road, then work east toward El Capitan. Although there is no water on top of El Capitan, normally there is water one mile west or a half mile east. Great views up there. Then continuing east there is Eagle Peak. Continuing to the top of Yosemite Falls, you can go up to Yosemite Point. From there, you can continue east and then north to exit at the Porcupine Creek trailhead. That's only maybe three days, but the rest of the time you can spend enjoying the views and shuttling a car.

[longri]

I think you've picked the wrong year to do this in mid-May. We've got too much snow. Glacier Point road will probably be closed because of significant snow in the backcountry. Even the El Cap traverse suggested could be snowy. Any 7 day trip is likely going to involve a fair amount of late spring snow slogging. That's not to say it's impossible, just different.

[Wandering Daisy]

Unfortunately this is not the best year for your plan. For a 7-day backpack that combines the alpine with the valley and ends with your first view of the valley from the trail, you really need Tioga Pass to be open. Otherwise, you have to do a fairly contrived route. Even if the road opens, you will be on a LOT of snow. So you have to decide if the goal of seeing the Valley from above is more important than an overall best trip. Or postpone the trip until later.

Personally, I prefer the view of the walls from the Valley anyway. The Valley will have the best photography and waterfalls will be glorious. I would not want to miss that for anything. In fact, I would spend at least a day simply walking in the valley.

Here is another plan. Go in from the south (Fresno), get a permit at south entrance and do the Pohono-Panorama-Merced Lake-cross trail to Sunrise Creek, up to Clouds Rest, down to Valley , night in backpackers camp, up Snow Creek, over to Yosemite Falls (this is the North rim traverse) down Yosemite Falls, walk back to Tunnel View. that route stays lower and would avoid most snow. You start at tunnel view, but DO NOT go out to viewpoint because that would be your first view.

[bobby49]

Yes, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, your first tipoff that there is too much snow is if the Tamarack Flat Campground is closed. The best time to go is about late June of a normal year.

[longri]

Personally, I prefer the view of the walls from the Valley anyway. The Valley will have the best photography and waterfalls will be glorious.

I think the views from certain points on the rim are spectacular. Glacier Point blows me away even though I've been there more times than I can count. The top of El Capitan has fantastic views toward Half Dome. And from across the Valley at Taft Point the view of El Cap is stunning. Even just hiking up the talus near the Cathedrals a few hundred feet off the Valley floor improves the view. Another spot that's really worth visiting is the view of Half Dome's face from the Diving Board.

The valley floor itself tends to be a bit of a bummer. You gotta go up at least a little ways to escape some of that funk.

[Wandering Daisy]

I get up at dawn and walk the Valley before others are up. I walk down the banks of the Merced, off trails and meet nobody. I really do get good photos. And I can day-hike up to the big waterfalls. On several rim trips, I also get good views, but because I do not wait for the best lighting, photos are hit and miss. What I find the best early season trip in Yosemite is do South Rim and North Rim with a layover day in the Valley. That way you get the best of both looking up and down. But you can also do this by staying in the Valley and doing long day-hikes.