2006 TR: Lost Coast

[Wandering Daisy]

Lost Coast: May 18-27, 2006
10 days, 76.5 miles, 11,170 feet elevation gain

Posts seem to be getting slow now, so here is an old one. I searched and apparently I have not posted this trip before. I did not take a camera so no photos. I went back in 2015 and took the camera, and that report IS posted, if you want to see photos, see the link below.

viewtopic.php?p=96352&hilit=Lost+Coast#p96352


The logistics of walking the entire Lost Coast is complicated. The one-way route is a transportation nightmare since the shuttle is exceedingly expensive for a single backpacker. The deal with my husband was that he would pick me up on his BMW motorcycle on Hwy1, at the road junction with the 4wd Usal Road. His reward would be the prime motorcycle roads back to my car at the Matolle Beach parking lot. We would camp there and then I would follow him north to Ferndale before we drove home.

Thankfully, in 2006 there were no permit quotas to mess with timing for optimum tides. I had researched and specifically found a time slot with morning to mid-day negative low tides. It would be important to stay on a rigid schedule. Once to Gitchell Creek tides no longer would be an issue. Being a coastal backpacking novice, I conservatively planned for 10 days and split the food evenly between north and south sections so I could wait out tides if needed. I thought the beach walking would be more difficult than the trail walking south of Shelter Cove. I was wrong on that account! My main regret was not taking a camera.

I left town early for the long drive, picked up a BLM permit for the northern section at an office on the way to Shelter Cove. Then I drove to the store on the top of the hill 3 miles above Shelter Cove where they kindly stored a box with five days food in the back office with my name and pick-up date. I headed back to the highway and drove north, with five days food in the bear can required for the BLM section. I camped at a nice BLM campground (currently a day-use only area) near the little town of Honeydew. It took me the entire day to get set up for the trip.

Day1: 5/18/06: Northern Trailhead to Spanish Creek Barefoot on the Beach
10.9 miles, 6 hours, 400 feet elevation gain

I was up early and drove the slow road to the trailhead parking and walked out onto the beach in overcast skies. I took off my shoes at the first crossing and decided to just walk barefoot to save time. Low tide was 9:30AM so I squished my toes in the smooth black intertidal sand and crossed uncounted little streams for five miles! I was making great time! Soon I regretted not taking a camera. The first good camping was at Cooksie Creek but it was early afternoon. With my shoes back on I stayed on the beach when possible and up on the hillside when needed. The smooth sand gave way to a rocky beach and the tide was rising. I continued to Spanish Creek and set up camp at about 3PM. A couple with a dog camped nearby invited me over to enjoy their fire. They offered me marijuana but I declined. They were very open about the fact that they made their living growing the stuff. I rinsed off in the creek before going inside the tent. A creepy-crawly proof tent is essential for beach camping. I zipped everything up tight.

Day2: 5/19/06: Spanish Creek to Gitchell Creek Running to Beat the Tides
10.1 miles, 6 hours, 200 feet elevation gain

Shipman Creek, about 7 miles further, was tide dependent and low tide would be at 11:05AM. Given the rate I had been walking, it would take about 4 hours. I arose at the crack of dawn and left by 7:30AM as it rained off and on all morning. Travel was slow the three miles to Hadley Creek since the tide forced me up to slippery rocky ground. I only averaged 1.5 miles per hour. The four miles to Shipman Creek was easier and even had some road walking. I reached Shipman Creek at noon and managed to get around the pinch point before the tide made it impassable. Then I took a long rest! The rain stopped at 2PM as I reached Gitchell Creek and found a campsite took a bath and cooked a big dinner. It had been a rainy spring on the coast so all the side creeks were flowing well making fresh water abundant. Clouds were building at 4PM so I went into the tent early. I cannot recall if there were others camped nearby. The weather report was not good, so I suspect few were attempting the Lost Coast. It rained hard all night.

Day3: 5/20/06: Gitchell Creek to Shelter Cove and back to beach Complications and Backtrack
14.1 miles, 8.3 hours, 0 feet elevation gain

This was a frustrating day although beach travel became easier. I left about 8AM. The four miles to Shelter Cove is the famous “black sands” beach. I quit trying to keep my shoes dry and simply sloshed through all the side creeks. I had planned to camp at the commercial campground in Shelter Cove.
Thinking I had plenty of time I decided to do the 4.5 mile side-trip to Point-No-Pass where I had lunch and dried out in a thankful sliver of sunshine. I returned to Shelter Cove and walked to the campground to find out the price was high and the showers were not working. I decided to simply hike back up the beach a mile to an unnamed creek. I am not sure my camp was legal but I was too tired to care. It clouded up in the late afternoon. I was now a day ahead of schedule since I had planned four days on the northern section. The beach walking went a lot faster than I had thought it would.

Day4: 5/21/06: Beach to Wailaki Campground Road Walking and Camp with the CCC Trail Crew
8.9 miles, 6.6 hours, 2960 feet elevation gain

I no longer had to worry about tides so would just play it by ear. The next section had few campsites near water. It was too far to make it to the Sinkyone Wilderness campground. I walked back down the beach and through Shelter Cove. Attempts at hitching a ride for the three miles up the 1000-foot hill failed. It rained lightly all morning. I picked up my food, bought some fresh food and sat outside on the covered porch for lunch.

I walked another 2.5 miles on a road to the Hidden Valley Trailhead in a steady drizzle. The rain increased as I continued on the trail. Two miles along, I decided to take the trail that drops to the BLM Wailaki Campground. The campground is small and a CCC trail crew was set up in most sites. I set up my tent in an empty site. The crew was out working on trails but the cook came over and said I could sit at the picnic table under their tarp to cook my dinner and stay dry. I gladly accepted the offer and he chatted with me while I cooked dinner. I was amazed at this 17-year-old’s life’s story, so glad the CCC was becoming his ticket out of a hopeless future. When the crew arrived, soaking wet and muddy, the cook became very busy and I went back to my tent.

Day5: 5/22/06: Wailaki CG to Needle Rock Visitor Center Rain, Elk and Appreciated Hospitality
7.0 miles, 5.8 hours, 1100 feet elevation gain

I awoke to rain, packed up and headed up the hill to the trail. In deep forest I simply followed the trail which was in good shape, I suspect due to the CCC crew. I came to a meadow about noon just when the sun broke through the clouds and gave me an hour to dry my sleeping bag and clothing. The trail then dropped to a narrow ridge along a fence blocking off the private property to the left. The trail was washed out and I clung to the fence for dear life in a few places. The trail crew had apparently not reached this point. The muddy trail became slippery and I had to really slow down. It rained occasionally all afternoon. At the bottom I waded across several creeks before the trail ascended to the bluff full of elk. I had to manage to get through the herd before I reached Needle Rock Campground. I walked the half mile to the Visitor Center to get my permit for the next day and pay for the campground. The ranger said I could camp there if I did not want to walk back to the campground, so I set up the tent. Then I took my sleeping bag inside and fully dried it out by her fireplace while we chatted about backpacking and drank tea. There had been very few visitors and I think she was glad to have some company.

Day6. 5/23/06: Needle Rock Visitor Center to Wheeler Camp Warm Hearth, Coffee, Four Inches of Rain and more Elk
7.3 miles, 7.1 hours, 1390 feet elevation gain

The ranger invited me in for morning coffee by her hearth. Then I packed up and came up with a new strategy for rainy travel. Since my rain jacket and pants leaked and the temperature a mild 65 degrees, I used the “naked with rain gear” method while my clothing stayed dry inside waterproof bags inside my pack. Because of all the overgrowth along the trails I was soaked within half an hour just from the dew, let alone the rain. It drizzled steadily all morning, increasing as the day went on and became heavy after noon. Walking kept me warm. After seven hours of walking without much rest, the rain poured as I dropped to Wheeler Camp. I retreated into an unused out-house to insert poles into the tent, folded it a bundle, and ran down the trail into four huge elk! I ran by them to an established campsite, quickly set up the tent, got out of my rain clothes, crumpling them under the fly and dove into the tent. I dried off with a small towel, put on my wool clothing and snuggled up inside the sleeping bag. Luckily I had filled the water bottle so ate trail food. Near dark I boiled some water in the vestibule, which I hate to do because of the fire hazard, and made a quick potato-cheese dinner. I did not have much water left so put the pot out in the rain. By morning it was full with four inches of rain.

Day7: 5/24/06: Wheeler Camp to Little Jackass Creek Damaged Trail, Anxiety and Bears
4.8 miles, 4.9 hours, 2100 feet elevation gain

Due to the wet spring and current rains the trial was in horrible shape, washed out and difficult to find in places. Steep washed out section required some Jungle Jane moves. I had to be very careful to stay on the trail. Getting lost here would be a disaster since navigation was next to impossible if I accidently got on a wrong trail. Thankfully I was ahead of schedule so slowing down was no problem. I awoke to cold and overcast conditions. At least it was not raining so I could cook breakfast outside. I stripped out of my insulating clothing, put on the rain gear and headed up the hill from Wheeler Camp, a 1,100-foot climb in 1.4 miles, to a prominent ridge. After three and half miles and another 1000 feet net gain along roller-coaster hills I reached the established camping at Little Jackass Creek. Going up one hill three bears were just off the trail. I quickly slid by and thankfully they stayed put. Seeing seals, 8-inch Banana Slugs, bears and huge elk in two days was a unique experience! The trail runs through a mix of thick forest, grass and brush with steep views down to the ocean as it steadily climbs. I decided to stop and take it easy the rest of the afternoon. The owner of the store where I picked up my food gave me a western novel she had finished reading, saying to me, “you may need this.” I certainly did and read for a few hours. At 5PM the sun came out for an hour just in time to cook and eat dinner.

Day 8: Little Jackass Creek to Anderson Gulch Glory of Sunshine and Slugs
2.5 miles, 3.4 hours, 600 feet gain

Morning never really arrives in the rain forest. As soon as I could see somewhat, I cooked breakfast and quickly packed up eager to get out of the forest. I could see small patches of blue obscured by the vast canopy. As I passed the upper campsite I briefly spoke to the two fellows who camped. They were not very friendly, probably as soggy as me and depressed by the poor weather so far. This day would also be a very easy day since there was no sense in hurrying since my pick-up date was two days off.

Just before noon I broke out onto a south-facing hillside with no trees and immediately took everything out to dry as the sun began to peek through the clouds. It occurred to me that sitting barefoot in my underwear with gear all spread out was not the safest position to be in if a mountain lion were to appear. My rest was punctuated with anxiety. On this day, probably because of the recent rains, the trail was full of huge slugs. Often I would be wading in waist deep vegetation, barely seeing the trail, feeling the squish of slugs as I stepped on them. The ultimate insult was to slip on slugs and fall into stinging nettles!

I chose the first small flat spot in a clearing next to a deteriorating out house when I came to Anderson Gulch. I had only hiked 2.5 miles and it was not yet noon. The entire afternoon I read, pulled ticks off my body, soaked up sunshine listening to the distant surf. The ants kept me busy while I brushed them off my legs. I finished my book and tore out a few chapters for toilet paper since I was running short. I pondered. The book would be given back to the forest from which it came! I tossed it far as it landed in thick brush full of poison oak where nobody would venture, a cheap western that the kind lady at the Shelter Cove store had given me now would be digested by rainforest bugs. I hiked down to the creek to get water and bathe. When I returned, I dumped out all my food to discover that I could have a nice feast and started cooking in earnest while I watched the sunset. I was elated to be warm and dry! I was alone in Anderson Gulch for the night. For the first time on this trip, I watched stars but soon the fog rolled in.

Day 9: Anderson Gulch to Usal Creek Campground Cultural Shock and Boredom
5.7 miles, 4.0 hours, 1700 feet elevation gain

My goal was to get to Usal Campground, about 6 miles and 1,700 feet gain and loss. It was Memorial Day Friday so I wanted to get there early enough to find a campsite. The day was partly cloudy, windy and cold. I was glad I had taken advantage of drying out the previous day. The route started going deep into the forest and switch backed up a steep shadowed hillside where the trail was washed out in a few places. Topping the ridge, it then plunged into Dark Gulch. The views over the ocean were outstanding. A small flat campsite is located where the trail crosses Dark Gulch. I am glad I did not camp there. The north side of Dark Gulch is very cliffy but the trail is easy to follow. Once across the creek and after a steady climb up towards Timber Point the trail finally breaks out onto grassy slopes with great views. Here I met two hikers. The flowers were in peak bloom. Then it is back into the forest as the trail becomes more used and wider with the final drop into Usal Creek.

The campground is large and spacious and was fast filling. I wandered around, finally settling on a site in deciduous trees within a quarter mile of the beach. The noise and bustle were a shock after my days of peace and quiet. As I set up my tent it began to rain lightly then let up. I walked to the beach amazed that little children were swimming in the cold water on this blustery cool day. I think the locals are a lot hardier than me! I was wearing three layers of fleece. Back at camp I took a quick discrete bath in the creek and filled my water bottles. This was the first time on this trip that I used chlorine tablets in the water. Although the sites were spread out a very noisy family camped next to me.

Without a book and with only a road to walk out, I became bored the rest of the uneventful afternoon. It had only taken me four hours to get here leaving too much time, but this was the last legal campsite before the road and my 1PM pick up the next day. I had allowed too much time for the trip and regretted not going slower on the beach north of Shelter Cove. The terrain on the section south of Shelter Cove is not difficult, compared to the Sierra, but the weather and vegetation were challenging. My feast at Anderson Gulch had depleted supplies leaving me with a meager dinner and cup of tea. I hit the sack early, put in ear plugs and slept quite peacefully.

Day 10: Usal Creek Campground to Highway 1 Muddy Road, Waiting and Wine
6.1 miles, 3.1 hours, 1320 feet elevation gain

I awoke at dawn eager to get on the road. Since Dave’s motorcycle is a BMW road bike, he was not willing to drive down the 6 miles of muddy road. It was a nice clear day with puffy clouds overhead. As I walked the road, I met several vehicles coming in. Other than the roadway, the surrounding land was private and choked with poison oak. Finding a place to pee on this busy road was no small task! I walked the 6 miles in 3 hours arriving far too early at Highway 1. As I sat on my pack waiting, I had three offers of rides.

Finally Dave showed up, a little late since he had come up Highway 1, the slower scenic route. I was not sure how we were going to get me and all my gear on the motorcycle. I changed into my leather pants as Dave filled the side storage and strapped the pack on in front. Then I clumsily climbed on back, terrified. Highway 1 from the coast to Leggett is hardly a beginner’s ride. Dave said lean, so I did. I felt we were going to fly off every curve. Later Dave told me he did not have to lean or do anything because I had been leaning excessively! It took us several passes up and down the road before we found the motel that I had booked earlier.

A real shower was great. With my motorcycle leathers my only clean clothes, we had dinner at a local pizza parlor and headed back to the motel to finish off a bottle of wine. My dear husband never thought to bring me a set of clean clothes, although I had several changes of clothes in my car, which did me no good now.

Day 11: Long Drive to retrieve Car Motorcycle Babe

The route back to my car, up Highway 1 and on the Mattole Road, is a fairly well known motorcycle tour with internet reviews ranging from “fabulous” to “rough.” My previous day’s ride was not comfortable so we decided to leave my pack at the motel and pick it up later. Dave adjusted the backrest down to “child” size so I felt more secure. With tight leather pants, helmet, gloves and a stiff leather jacket, I felt like the Michelin Man. I waddled more than walked.

We headed off in the chilly in the morning, thankful that the BMW is equipped with heated seats! I clung to Dave for dear life. The 70mph straight away freaked me out more than the hairpin curves. After watching the road speed by a few inches under my feet I quickly looked up the rest of the way. We stopped in Garberville for breakfast at a restaurant full of motorcyclists. I felt a little silly but nobody noticed. After another hour, we stopped at a rest stop shortly before turning onto Matolle Road. The hairpin turns I had been worrying about my entire hike were actually less scary than the fast highway. The road is a one-lane paved road with numerous potholes and gravel sections that requires slow travel. Although real bikers do not like this, I was thankful!

As we dropped down into Honeydew it occurred to me that I had left my car keys in my pack back at the motel. What a stupid mistake! We could break a window in my car or Dave could go back to retrieve the keys. For the next three hours, I sat on the porch of the Honeydew store as locals slowly wandered in and out. I felt I had drifted back to a cross between the Andy Griffith Show and Woodstock. I looked a bit out of place in my motorcycle getup. The store was full of locals because it was Sunday at the only laundry around. The water system was down so much beer was consumed awaiting repair required to make the washing machines work.
Dave finally came back and brought my pack. We tied the pack on the back of the seat rest behind me and I fought this arrangement all the way to the campground. I was eager to get out of my leathers and into clean fleece and jeans. We were pleasantly surprised to get a great campsite and enjoyed the rest of the evening cooking up a nice dinner and walking on the beach. Our large Sierra Designs car-camping tent was a luxury after 10 days hunkered in my little Micro-Zoid.

Day 12: Completing the Mottelle Road and Driving Home

Dave wanted to complete the Mottelle Road route so we packed up and I followed him in my car. We stopped at Black Sand Beach and walked 3 miles along the beach. The wind was furious as we struggled north on our return. After several more hairpins, hills and increasingly better road, we reached Ferndale, just in time for the Memorial Day parade. We lunched in a fancy Victorian restaurant. The long ride back to Sacramento was not too bad for a holiday.



On this trip I learned that eight days would have been sufficient. Contrary to my planning, the beach walking was easy and fast and the trail walking south of Shelter Cove was much slower and harder. Coast backpacking is fairly new to me. I doubt I could tolerate an entire hike down the California Coast. There is just so much damp stickiness I can stand. I was thankful for my quick drying fleece, but wished I had brought a tarp to set up for a cooking area. Never do this trip without a camera! A day in Shelter Cove has to be better planned. Either skip it entirely or fork out the dollars to stay in a motel. Camp sites are fairly restricted south of Shelter Cove but there are more sites than indicated on the maps as “official” sites. A flat spot of ground, near water, and bare of poison oak is rare. The forested sites, although flat and roomy are very dark and dank. I wished I had spent some more time going to the pocket beaches on the route south of Shelter Cove. It is critical to plan the tides or else you may be waiting several hours to pass restricted points or hit them at night.

The popular route was not crowded at all, likely because of forecasts of poor weather. I was thankful and surprised by the very friendly, generous and helpful people I met on the trek.

I hiked the route again in 2015 in much better weather, although the fog precluded long out-to-sea vistas. The trails were recently maintained and this trip was overall a much better experience. I do not think I would have gone back except to get photos. This time Dave drove his truck to Usal Campground to pick me up. I was amazed at the increased use in ten years. Shortly thereafter permit quotas were put in place which now makes getting a permit at optimum tides difficult.

[Harlen]

Sounds like a cool trip-- rain, slugs, ants, ticks, and neetles! Sorry you didn't have your camera to take pictures of all of those guys. The big Elk and 3 Bears made up for the other nasty elements.

Dave sounds like an amazing support team of one. Congratulations on your trips there.

[Wandering Daisy]

The link up at the top of the post shows photos that I took on a later trip.

The rain is something I learned to live with- pretty unavoidable if hiking the Lost Trail in late spring. Yes, the elk were amazing. I actually liked the slugs (they too were amazing). On my next trip I only ran into a few slugs.

It makes a big difference if you hike the trails after recent trail maintenance. The 2006 trip was a bit too early and it was a high rain. Many of the trails go washed out. You definitely cannot do much off-trail travel except beach walking on the north section. I feel it is a very unique and worthy trip especially doing the entire trail.

They have permit quotas now, so it is not as easy to plan a trip at prime low tides. But I recommend that the Lost Coast is worth the effort- nothing quite like it.