R03/R04 TR: Piute Pass Loop 8/1-5, 2024

[Wandering Daisy]

This is the second trip in my "two trips for one drive" plan after I completed the Meetup trip to Bear Basin. This second trip was shorter, 5 days, so I could get back for my husband's 80th birthday.

Humphreys-Glacier Divide
August 1-5, 2024 (5 days, 25.5 miles)

The day I came out to Pine Creek trailhead, I picked up my permit in Bishop, charged electronics, bought an ice cream cone, and drove up the road to North Lake. After checking out some campsites near Sabrina Lake I decided to try to get a site at North Lake. Luckily there were a few empty sites left where I could park my car at the site. I spent the afternoon organizing and taking a discrete bath. The family camped in the next site came back from day activities and it was a bit noisy for a while, but all calmed down by dark.

Day1. 8/1: Piute Pass Trailhead to Packsaddle Lake
(8.5 miles, 8.0 hours, 2510 feet elevation gain, 1100 feet loss)

I was up early and surprised that the family next to me also got up early. After much fumbling around I was packed, left my pack at the campsite, drove to the parking lot half a mile down the road, and walked back to camp. I was on the trail, and as usual wondering if I forgot something. Originally planned as a 6-day trip including Honeymoon and Ramona Lakes, I cut it a day short so that I would be home on August 5. It was my husband’s 80th birthday and I promised him I would be home for this special occasion. On the way up to Piute Pass I had to decide if I would first go to Humphreys Lakes and counter clockwise back on Glacier Divide side or do the route clockwise. Well, I did neither. I decided to make hay while the sun shone, and did a long day to Packsaddle Lake. From there I would counter-clockwise to Piute Pass and then do an in-and-out to Humphreys Lakes, if weather cooperated.

I met a young woman, Joan, on Piute Pass. She was going over Alpine Col and I exchanged all the information I could remember from doing it in 2010 when on Roper’s High Route. She planned to get over the pass the same day as part of some difficult “high route”. I headed down the trail, getting a bit confused for a time at Golden Trout Lake. I then remembered the unmarked trail to take to the crossing below the outlet. I had done this route with my husband many years ago. I waded across and then headed up the hill straight for Packsaddle Lake. Although more elevation gain than needed, it was better than the more complex contouring. The Packsaddle side got a bit steep but worked out fine. There was a rowdy group of fellows across the lake. I sure hoped they would stay away from me! I spent an inordinate amount of time finding a campsite; little shade and shelter was to be had. I finally found a fine site. I caught a few fish in the afternoon. The weather then rolled in for some showers and the wind picked up.

Loch Levan Lake

Camp at Packsaddle Lake

Day2. 8/2: Packsaddle Lake to Muriel Lake and fishing
(4.7 miles, 5 hours, 900 feet elevation gain/ 220 feet loss)

When I awoke, the weather was a bit unsettled. I had planned on a morning hike up to Paine Lake but decided to simply get moved to Muriel Lake while the weather held. I took a slightly different route back to the crossing, ending up too far upstream. I should have been more aware of what it looked like from this side! Once on the trail I decided to leave it at about 11,000 feet elevation, and walked over easy terrain to a row of little ponds west of an unnamed lake. I zig-zagged through the swampy drainage hopping on rocks to the dry side north of the steep cliffy hillside north of Muriel Lake. I took a break and studied the terrain.
I found a fair game trail west of the outlet from Muriel and came out on the ridge a bit above the lake. I ran into a fellow who had gotten separated from his partners on his way down from Alpine Col. He said they were his ride back and now he was stranded. He wandered off looking for them.

I dropped to the lake and found a nice campsite on the north shores. Two guys from Bishop were camped a bit above of me. We discussed fishing a bit. I then walked the west shore to my favorite fishing location and caught two nice large fish. The other two fellows were fishing near my camp and caught some smaller fish. I also caught a smaller fish there. Clouds soon rolled in and it stormed the rest of the afternoon. The storm was very windy; I was glad I was down among trees. After the storm I walked back to the outlet for photos and noticed that the fellows got a bit blown about since the rock that sheltered them was for a wind from the opposite direction. They took it all in stride and were not too concerned. After storm lighting was perfect so I wandered around taking many photos.

Fish from Muriel Lake

Muriel Lake camp looking south

Muriel Lake camp looking north

Muriel Lake

Muriel Lake outlet stream

Muriel Lake outlet

 

[John Harper]

Nice report, your husband is a very lucky man.

What flies did you use for those brookies?

John

[Wandering Daisy]

Day3. 8/3: Muriel Lake to Humphreys Lakes plus fishing
(4.3 miles, 4.6 hours, 745 feet gain/ 385 feet loss)

I was glad to be headed to a more remote area since I was a bit tired of all the other people. In spite of most of them being nice I did not feel like I was in the wilderness. There were more people as I walked to Piute Pass. I found a faint cairned trail up the steep 200-foot hillside and more or less ended at several little ponds. Well, this was the end of people! I had Humphreys Lakes all to myself. After passing a series of pond I headed up towards Marmot Lake a bit too soon, ending up on a ridge above the west shore. I dropped down and crossed the outlet and then headed almost directly north over a small ridge and dropped to the southeast shores of the most western large lake. There were many good areas to camp mid-shore at the westernmost lake.

After setting up I walked to the southwest shore and caught three nice fat fish. Curious about the fish at the lake to the northeast I headed up there and caught a small fish, just as a storm was brewing. I quickly went back to camp. Not much came of the storm so I fished the shores near my tent, without luck. After cooking the fish, the evening hours had perfect lighting for photos. I walked back above the outlet pond onto a bench with a lush wetland, where I ran into a grouse. I got back to camp just before the end of a beautiful sunset.

Morning leaving Muriel Lake

Glacier Divide from the bench lakes above Piute Pass

Westernmost Humphreys Lake camp

Fish caught at Humphreys Lake

Mt. Humphreys from camp

Sunset Walk to outlet wetlands

Grouse

Looking down on Outlet Ponds at sunset

Outlet views south

Wetlands on bench above outlet ponds

Sunset on camp

[Wandering Daisy]

A few more Humphreys Lake photos

Western Humphreys Lake

Mt Humphreys

Day4. 8/4: Humphreys Lakes to Piute Lake + fish Emerson Lake
(4.2 miles, 4.3 hours, 480 feet gain, 1305 feet loss)

It was cold but clear in the morning. I was glad I had taken my 10-degree bag! I now just needed to go back to Piute Pass and find a camp at Piute Lake. Although I could walk out, I wanted to fish Emerson Lake. On the way back I dropped down the stream from Marmot Lake and then traversed over to the series of lakes/ponds above Cony Lake and at 11,560 feet elevation. Amazingly there were no mosquitoes given the amount of swampy grasses and standing water. Dropping to Piute Pass I missed the use-trail I had followed on my way in. I gathered some nice clean water from above the trail where a stream from the north flows into Piute Lake, crossed the outlet and found a great campsite on the southeast shore below the FS hut. It was cozy and hidden from the trail, although the south shore of Piute Lake was not great for fishing.

I took the worst route possible up to Emerson Lake, even though I had been there twice before. By the time I got to the lake I was frustrated. There were plenty of fish, but all small. Previously I had caught some nice sized fish at the south end. I ate lunch and took a bath since the lake at least provided privacy. I found a use-trail on the way down. It was very steep and my weight got too far forward as I tumbled down onto rocks. Ouch! I hit my shins and left shoulder which had been injured several years ago and had just healed. I did save the fishing rod held in my right hand. Once I figured out that most limbs were working I continued down, fortunately only a short distance to camp. I then sat on a submerged rock in Piute Lake for half an hour in an attempt to “ice” my road rash legs. I fished the shore- at least my right arm worked. My shins hurt so much that I really did not notice the shoulder until it started to ache something terrible in the middle of the night. Well, this was a very inglorious way to end the trip. For compensation, there at least was a nice sunset.

Glacier Divide from Ponds at 11560

Mt Humphreys from ponds at 11560

Camp at Piute Lake

Emerson Lake, view north

Emerson Lake, view south

Piute Lake

Camp

Sunset looking towards North Lake

[Wandering Daisy]

Day5. 8/5: Walk out and drive home
(3.8 miles, 2 hours, 135 feet gain/ 1835 feet loss)

I was up early and left just in time for some wonderful early morning views from the trail as I dropped to Loch Leven Lake. I was glad that my injuries were not a problem while walking out. Soaking my legs in the lake seemed to do the job of reducing any bruises. But by morning my re-injured left shoulder was a bit painful and movement was restricted. I met several people who were walking in. It was quite hot by the time I reached my car at the parking lot. The drive home was pleasant, as usual. Hwy.395 is a much better drive than 99 on the west side. I went over Monitor, Luther and Echo passes before dropping into Sacramento. I got home just in time for wine and brie and a nice dinner.

Morning at pond near trail below Piute Lake

Pond near trail

Morning reflections

View from trail between Piute and Loch Leven Lakes

Loch Leven Lake

Loch Leven Lake

View from trail below Loch Leven Lake

So far my strategy of two trips for one drive was working out. Unfortunately the price of campgrounds has really gone up. Even with my senior pass the North Lake campground was $17 and it does not even have potable water. There are few legal free campsites on the east side, Pine Creek being one. It is best to walk in the same day that one drives. I got home the day before Dave’s birthday, in time to plan the weekend party which was a success although way more stressful and hard work than backpacking!

Interestingly, two weeks later on my trip from Onion Valley I met Joan, the gal I met on Piute. She told me that, on her way up to Alpine Col, she ran into a distraught fellow who was left behind by his group who were going up the pass. She used his In-Reach and called his wife, who just said he was experienced and would figure it out. Well, helicopters flew through Humphreys Basin for the next two days. Evidently the fellow pushed his help button. This was not the same fellow I met the next day who also was abandoned by his group. Joan made it over Alpine Col and loved Darwin Basin. When she heard of the search, she felt guilty leaving the fellow. I wondered what happened to the other abandoned guy I met.

[balzaccom]

Your reports are always a good read, Daisy. We love that area, and while it looks like you caught mainly brookies there, I've also caught quite a few goldens in that area. Lovely fish.

[wildhiker]

Thanks for the report. I like the matter-of-fact way you talk about your mistakes as well as your successes. Sorry to hear about your fall! I hope your shoulder is better now.

I was in northern Yosemite the same week and I took a fall with backpack on. I was just walking through a meadow and turned my head to look back at Whorl Mountain but made the mistake of trying to move my feet before turning my head back. Foot caught on the "curb" of the trail embedded in the meadow and down I went - thankfully onto soft grass! Only my ego was really hurt.

-Phil

[windknot]

Thanks for the report, WD! I too appreciate your reliable and matter of fact narrative.

[Kyri Freeman]

Thanks! I've been really interested in those higher Humphreys Basin lakes.

[giantbrookie]

Nice trip and report. I'll bet the hiking felt as close to effortless as it could be after being fully tuned up following your Bear Basin trip. I'm pleasantly surprised to see that there are still chunky brookies in the Humphreys Lakes (or one of them). I fished that lake in 1987 and it appears the size range hasn't changed that much--- I had sort of expected that they'd be smaller and stunted after all of these years (of apparently good spawning). This is in fact the first report I've read of fishing there since 1987.

Sorry to hear about your fall at Emerson. I myself have a very bad track record of falling and tweaking things, going back to my younger years. It's one of those things that I tell myself I should be careful because as I get older I'll probably get more brittle. But I keep messing up and falling anyway, whether I'm on recreational High Sierra hikes or doing geologic field work. Anyhow Emerson is interesting in contrast to the one Humphreys Lake (the others had skinny fish in 1987) and Muriel, as well as the best known big brookie lake in that area (one I'm pretty sure you've visited before but not on this trip). I fished Emerson on the same 1987 trip on which I camped at and fished Humphreys Lakes--I went there because of the glowing assessment in the DFG Anglers Guide. In 1987 I caught plump brookies out of Emerson to 12" which was pretty much how I did at Humphreys No. 3 (Fish and Game numbers).

Best wishes to your husband for his 80th! What is the saying nowadays "60 is the new 40"? So maybe "80 is the new 60".