R03/R04 TR: Cottonwood Lakes, 6/15-6/16 2024

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rormisto
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R03/R04 TR: Cottonwood Lakes, 6/15-6/16 2024

Post by rormisto »

Finally snuck away from LA for a very quick Sierra trip! Felt antsy, got a walkup Cottonwood Lakes permit for 6/15 earlier that week, and drove up Friday after work. Arrived in the parking lot around 11:30 pm and was walking around 6:00 am. I tried to take it easy, knowing I hadn't acclimated and my trail legs from an April hike had faded.

I was hoping to do some peakbagging: Cirque Peak, Langley, Joe Devel, and Pickering. I had done a lot of research on possible routes and approaches but planned to play it by ear. I'd never been to Cottonwood Lakes before and was pretty excited as I started to break past the treeline and into the bowl with New Army and Cirque around me, about 9:30 am.
01 - cottonwood.jpeg

There was a small bit of snow at the top of New Army, which I had never been up before. I could see folks struggling to descend it from the bowl below. With the direct route up Cirque going at Class I, and with almost no visible snow, and never having done the walk along the cirque's rim (would it be bad? would it be snowy?) I elected to go straight up Cirque. If the traverse was bad, at least I'd only have to do it one way, and I'd skip the snow on New Army. The ascent up Cirque was mostly stable small talus with easily avoided snow patches. I reached the summit at 10:45 am, and briefly enjoyed the view before puttering on. With no opportunities to fill up water in my near future, I wanted to move quickly.
03 - cirque.jpeg

The route along the cirque rim was completely trivial-- flat, snow-free, good views, and some cute alpine flowers.
04 - flowers.jpeg
06 - easy traverse.jpeg

I was eventually given a good view of the route I'd taken up Cirque. While there's no real reason to ever do this instead of going up New Army, it was fun! I'm not much of a mountaineer, but I didn't find it too hard, either. It took me a little over an hour to go from Cirque to Old Army, getting there at noon.
05 - cirque route.jpeg
07 - more flowers.jpeg

Old Army Pass had a small snowfield at the top, but I couldn't see further down. It didn't look so bad from the top, but I crossed it off my list of "ways to get back to my car" without more complete information (and knowing it's dicey at the best of times).

Without acclimating, I usually struggle with altitude above 12k, and noticed I was starting to feel weak, not helped by the exertion of the direct ascent. It was a hot day, and I started running low on water. I gathered some snow as a stopgap, but knew I couldn't dilly dally. My pace slowed as I made progress up Langley, and I stopped for short rests frequently. I had a difficult time following the cairns at 13.2k, as the trail headed into the steep and large talus. I made the questionable decision to head E-NE and ascent smaller talus directly, with less exposure. My route shaved off some distance, but at the cost of working a little harder. I felt as though I was making exceedingly slow progress. But after continuing to go between sandy slopes and small talus, I eventually arrived on the summit at 2:30. I took photos for a large group and they insisted on taking one for me-- I'm usually not a fan of summit photos, so it was funny to end up with one. Pictured is my terrible little doll from the PCT last year.
08 - langley & nessa.jpeg

Feeling weak and rather thirsty, I took my steeper ascent route down Langley, wanting to stick to what I knew. The trail down to Soldier Lake is in great condition, and I was able to easily follow it as soon as I found it-- the faintest part was the alleged junction with the main Langley route.
09 - soldier.jpeg

There was a stunning little meadow with wildflowers just before Soldier Lake, and my spirits recovered from what had been a taxing stretch above treeline.
10 - soldier meadow.jpeg

I finally took a real rest at Solider Lake, arriving at 4:30, drinking water, eating some ramen, and very bravely getting knee-deep in the lake (I am a baby with the cold and generally refuse to swim).

I was tempted to camp, but got antsy by 6, and prepared to make the traverse to upper Rock Creek around the nose of the Major General, per Secor. It was an absolutely lovely little walk, easy class 1 on big benches and slabs, before opening up into a system of large hanging meadows and tarns, connected to each other quite easily. It was great to not have to lose and gain the elevation that the trail does, here.
11 - nice boulder.jpeg

The absolute highlight of the trip would turn out to be wandering the headwaters of Rock Creek looking for a place to cross with dry feet. The sun was starting to get low, and the Miter Basin is stunning. I added it to my list of places to return to. I'd been told Iridescent Lake in particular was worth venturing out to.
12 - upper rock creek.jpeg

I hadn't realized how far up Miter Basin I'd have to go to cross Rock Creek, but the easy walking and the incredibly views made the time fly by. I eventually camped halfway between Erin & Primrose lakes, at 11.2k. I was pretty wiped from the day and decided that tomorrow would depend on how I felt in the morning.
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rormisto
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Re: TR - Cottonwood Lakes, 6/15 & 16

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Day 2, I woke up feeling perfectly mediocre. I'd come up with 3 options. 1) Erin Lake, up the ridge to Pickering, to Joe Devel, and then down the apparently easy-sandy S-SW slopes to the PCT, where I could easily head back. 2) New Army 3) the PCT & Cottonwood Pass. I was walking by 6:45.

The traverse to Erin Lake was quite fun and was easy, though I wouldn't have wanted to do it in wet conditions-- a lot of trusting my feet on smooth-ish rock. The trick seemed to be following a big crack system with trees growing out of it. I ended up much closer to the waterfall than I'd expected. I got to Erin Lake in only any hour from camp. I am realizing I really neglected to take pictures here-- sorry!
13 - to erin lake.jpeg
Erin Lake was lovely, with beautiful reflections in the still water, and the last bits of fading ice. I stared at my supposed route for a while, not knowing that I was actually not looking at the correct aspect. The SW side of the ridge to Pickering looked loose and with some exposure-- not my cup of tea. It also seemed to have Class III moves to stay on firmer rock, though I'm sure it was easier up close. The climb to Pickering looked like a scree slog, and Joe Devel didn't look much more inspiring, with my diminished energy. I decided to save these peaks for another trip.

14 - erin lake.jpeg
15 - not quite the route.jpeg
As I left the lake, I realized that the S side of the ridge is actually much better-- around the corner from the rock outcropping that is visible from the lake itself. But having made up my mind, and excited for my easy day, I stuck to my guns and descended the same ledges to Rock Creek, where I linked up with the Miter Basin trail. This trail is also in great shape, and I made good time.
16 - meadow.jpeg
The beautiful meadows were shockingly mosquito-free. I saw them, starting to pillar, but for now, they lacked interest in me, or anything else. I have a feeling that this has changed even in the last week.

Feeling abundantly lazy, and thinking about my drive back to LA, I decided to get on the PCT to minimize my elevation gain on the way back. I really hadn't recovered from the previous day. That stretch of trail likely doesn't merit much description. Chicken Spring Lake was fully melted, and quite nice looking. Cottonwood Pass was snow-free, other than an easily avoided patch at the top. I got back to my car at 1:00 pm, and was back in LA in under 48 hours from my initial departure!
17 - chicken spring.jpeg
A surprising highlight was the Owens Valley Lake in rare form.
18 - lake.jpeg
So, summary: Miter Basin rocks. Soldier Lake was fantastic, but probably helped by having it all to myself. The traverse from Solider to Miter was very easy and quite pretty. The ascent to Erin Lake was fun and on super secure rock. I balked at the climb to Pickering, since it looked loose, but might not have if I hadn't misjudged the route. I don't think I like peakbagging all that much, if we're being honest. But I sure liked my little trip!!
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John Harper
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Re: TR - Cottonwood Lakes, 6/15 & 16

Post by John Harper »

Great report. I'm headed up that way tomorrow.

John
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Mikelech
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Re: TR - Cottonwood Lakes, 6/15 & 16

Post by Mikelech »

Outstanding report.
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Love the Sierra
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Re: TR - Cottonwood Lakes, 6/15 & 16

Post by Love the Sierra »

Thank you for great trip ideas and a great report!
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