Merriam Peak Route Question

[tyoungberg]

Looking at climbing Merriam and Royce while out of Pine Creek this year, based from Royce Lakes. I've read the East face scramble is beautiful on Merriam - I will be with two intermediate friends and my question is how high on the class 3 (Secor) scale is this ascent? Last summer, we climbed Crocker from the saddle at the head of pioneer basin and they had no issues.

Appreciate any thoughts/route advice.

[Wandering Daisy]

I climbed the NE rib on Merriam in 2001. It was mostly 3rd class, with easy 5th class once on the ridge itself. We did lots of simul-climbing (using pro but moving, no belays). The face east of it is shown in one of the photos below. It is easy to get back down by the col, but early season there is snow. We kicked steps the afternoon before so we could get down next day without crampons.

I would call the face left of the ridge we climbed the east face. You access that from the same Royce Lake.

NE Ridge Merriam Peak- looking straight at the ridge

View down ridge we climbed

Here is the trip report
viewtopic.php?p=175653&hilit=Merriam#p175653

[tyoungberg]

Thanks for the info Daisy! How would climbing up that down route look? Looking at the maps, there is also another "chute" to the left of that i have been eyeing as well.

[maverick]

https://www.summitpost.org/merriam-peak/151102

[thegib]

See also Bob Burd's very useful site:
https://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/merriam_1.html

[tyoungberg]

Thanks maverick and gib! Exactly what I was looking for. Thinking we’ll give it a go.