Miter Basin nav advice for xc newbie

[potatopants]

Hello, all. I'm heading to Miter Basin from Cottonwood Lake TH the third week of July on a solo trip. Since I have only a little xc experience, and this will be my first time navigating solo, I was hoping for some counsel on the more foolproof routes into and out of the basin.

Is any particular route easier to navigate? I'm less concerned about physical difficulty and more concerned about obvious route finding, but any intel is appreciated!

Here's what I've learned so far:

1. Rock Creek Trail -- follows the creek, some bushwacky bits, drops elevation just to regain it.
2. northeast of Soldier Lake -- avoids unnecessary elevation change, great view, but route maybe less obvious?
3. Crabtree Pass -- obvious route on the north side, but Miter Basin side is not obvious--aim north of the highest lake

Thank you for your help!

[maverick]

The "search" feature is your friend.

viewtopic.php?p=123441&hilit=Crabtree#p123441

viewtopic.php?p=122255&hilit=Cottonwood ... ss#p122255

viewtopic.php?p=101917&hilit=Cottonwood ... ss#p101917

PS Also:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef3NKr7TCIQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MebAMgDD_Ug

[FrankPS]

I've been to Sky Blue Lake several times. The first three times, I went over New Army Pass. Then, I went over Cottonwood Pass. Now, I only use Cottonwood Pass, since I'm old and lazy!

Although both will get you there, going over Cottonwood Pass is significantly easier. Much less elevation gain. Regardless of which pass you take, here is the straightforward way to get to Sky Blue Lake (and the Miter Basin) from Soldier Lake (don't drop below Soldier Lake down Rock Creek, unless you want to make it harder!):

On the west side of the main (lower) Soldier Lake, there is a use trail. It will be cliffy on the left side for a little bit, then it widens to a steepish hillside. On the left side of the steepish hillside, there are some vague dirt trails. Although it's steep, it will only take about 15 minutes to top out on the ridge. Follow the faint trail(s) to the top.

Stay on the west side of the ridge until it almost peters out into the wide meadows of the Rock Creek headwaters. If you drop too soon, you will end up in the narrow valley through which the creek flows. Once you are on the ridge, it will be more obvious.

When you start in the wide meadow after the ridge, stay on the right side of the main creek all of the way. You will cross some smaller creeks and ponds on the way, but stay right of the main creek. There will be a trail part of the way.

You will see a stand of lodgepole (?) pines at the head of the valley. Aim for those. Up and to the left of these trees, there is a small rock headwall, through which the outlet of Sky Blue flows. Stay right of the outlet, and work your way up this headwall (Class 2, 2+) for about a 100' of gain. It tops out at Sky Blue Lake. Voila! You are there. Hope this helps.

Edit: If you go to the east side of Soldier Lake to camp, or you just end up on that side of the lake where the bear boxes are, you'll need to find a way to the other side of the lake. If you don't turn off at the sign that points you to Soldier Lake from the main trail, there is another turnoff just past it (coming from Cottonwood Pass) that goes directly to the west side of the lake. So which one you take depends on whether you want to camp at Soldier Lake.

I think there are a couple of different ways to get to Miter Basin from Soldier Lake; I've only described the one I am familiar with. And it works well.

[TurboHike]

Is any particular route easier to navigate?

I was there last August, I went over New Army Pass and then into Miter Basin. I entered the basin using a cross country route similar to that described by FrankPS, but I returned on the use trail that runs along Rock Creek. The trail along Rock Creek was the easier of the two to navigate IMO. Last summer the trail along Rock Creek was being used by packers so there was horse poop at the 10,700 elevation level and lower. The trail was obvious since the horses had pounded it into a well worn trail. The 10,700 elevation is at the north end of a big meadow. That's where the trail crosses Rock Creek to get to the west side as you're heading into the basin. If you were to stay on the west side for about a mile, you'll follow a faint use trail and see a few cairns. Then it really opens up and navigation becomes even easier.

[bobby49]

I agree with FrankPS. From Horseshoe Meadow and Cottonwood Pass, follow the main trail north to the trail junction and then to Soldier Lake. I generally get by on the right side of the lake. Once you get to the top of that next hill, just go where the terrain looks easiest, and wander up the center of the Mitre Basin. That last stand of trees before Sky Blue Lake is generally where I camp. There aren't many bears in there, but the yellow bellied marmots will keep you on your toes. As I recall, go right around Sky Blue, and then go left around the next higher lake. That will eventually lead you up to Crabtree Pass. Going north down to the highest Crabtree Lake was non-trivial. It is best to follow the solid rock rib that goes down toward the right edge of that lake. Otherwise, there is a lot of loose rock. Going around the right edges of each lake westward was OK, but the trail was difficult to follow. Fortunately, you don't need any trail. Once you get down to the outlet of the lowest Crabtree Lake, there are bits and pieces of usage trails that will lead you out, either west to the PCT, or north to Crabtree Camp, so follow your compass.

I had gone up the main east side Mount Whitney Trail about forty times. Then I discovered that going up the west side from Crabtree Camp seemed easier for an old man. The other alternative way to get to Crabtree Camp involves going up over Shepherd Pass, but that is much more intense.

[wsp_scott]

Caltopo shows the user trail through Miter Basin as well as Soldier Lake. The track over Crabtree Pass is almost identical to my GPS track from a couple years ago.

The stand of trees below Sky Blue mentioned above looked like a great campsite.

[Wandering Daisy]

You are in a big valley that funnels you to Sky Blue Lake, so hard to get really lost. Navigation is not really the word I would use- you need to do some micro route-finding to make it easier. The headwall slabs are class 2 at most as long as you pay attention to the route. There is no "key" route, but many ways that work- some just easier than others. I have only been there early season and it is quite wet and had to leave use-trails to find my own way around swamps. With two passes (Cottonwood and New Army) you can go in one and out the other. Early season New Army has a cornice and there is a use-trail "work around" but I would not suggest it until later in the season. Then go to Sky Blue via Soldier Lake one way and Rock Creek the other. I have always used Soldier Lake. You can drop off the ridge at many points. I once stayed on the ridge for a long distance (a bit harder but wanted to check it out). I have also gone up either side of the creek the last bit to Sky Blue Lake. There is a good rock-hop crossing at the outlet; again a bit more challenging early season. Staying on the right side going up is the safest if you are worried about creek crossings. Sky Blue to Crabtree Pass requires some real navigation. There is nice camping either at the outlet or inlet. I have always camped at the outlet. The bench above the inlet has a pond and little creeks with more vegetation and nice wildflowers. View from the outlet is better.

[potatopants]

All, thank you. Frank and Daisy, your descriptions are super helpful and I was able to easily follow along on the map. Maverick, thanks for the the TRs with the photos. I'm excited to grow my confidence with this trip and I think/hope it's the right amount of challenge for me.

[tnewton]

My favorite way into the basin is to go up over old army pass, follow the ridge a short way up toward Langley summit and then drop down to upper soldier lake. From there the basin opens up directly to the northwest. The view from that spot is awesome. Route finding is pretty straightforward throughout. Ive sauntered up around iridescent lake and around the back side of the miter without problem, around most of the other lakes, and including up to primrose over the top of pickering and back down to sky blue lakes basin. I'm not a climber, just an experienced recreational backpacker who likes to explore off trail.

[Wandering Daisy]

I absolutely would not recommend Old Army Pass to anyone who is a "newbie" at off-trail travel. It has not been maintained in years and has some parts wiped out by rockfall.

The safest and easiest way to Soldier Lake is Cottonwood Pass. The question then becomes going over the ridge adjacent to Soldier Lake or down to Rock Creek and up that supposed use-trail.

After reading the initial post, it sounds like they want to go over Crabtree Pass to Crabtree Lakes.

If a loop is intended, I suggest taking the PCT all the way to Crabtree Meadow, cross the meadow, a large cairn marks the start of a good trail up to the lower Crabtree Lake. The trail continues upward and peters out, but travel is easy. It is gorgeous! Then come back via Crabtree Pass. Going down to Sky Blue Lake may be easier to navigate than going up. I like to stay on trails at first when my pack is heavier, and then come back x-c with a lighter pack and more acclimated. If you feel you cannot do Crabtree Pass, you can always bail back out to the PCT, the way you came in. I have not myself done the pass but have walked up to the outlet of the uppermost Crabtree Lake and I have reached the ridge just west of Crabtree Pass from Sky Blue Lake when I did a climb that ran the ridge south. In early season you need micro-spikes. The north shore of the uppermost Crabtree Lake holds a snowfield.

The north side of Crabtree Pass may be easy, but it looks quite intimidating from the outlet of the uppermost lake.

On the other hand, if Miter Basin is your main objective, go there first and then just see if Crabtree Pass is fine with you. You could also just day-hike from Sky Blue Lake to at least the middle Crabtree Lake (which I think is the most impressive). I would be inclined to do a day-hike. The long slog on the PCT is pretty boring (but it does go fast).

PS- There is plenty to do in Miter Basin, lots of side trips.