R03/R01 TR: 7/19-7/24 2021 - South Lake to North Lake via the Ionian Basin

[OutdoorRandy]

My first trip report. South Lake to North Lake via Bishop Pass, Le Conte Canyon, Helen Lake, the Ionian Basin, Martha Lake, Evolution Valley, Lamark Col, North Lake. July 19-24. Approximately 55 miles.

In the 1980’s I visited the Ionian Basin 3 times. I’ve always wanted to go back. Our groupwas going to go last year but COVID derailed our plans. We were able to get a permit starting July 19. There were four of us. My brother, who was on the 1986 trip, a friend, and the son of a friend who was on the trips in 1984 and 1986. When I did the trips in the 1980’s there was a lot more snow. I figured this made the talus sections easier. I didn’t know what to expect this year with the lack of snow.

Day 1: South Lake to Dusy Basin. We took off from South Lake and got to Bishop Pass just as it started to hail. We got pelted for about 20 minutes on the descent. It was very invigorating. We were dry by the time we got to camp near the lowest Dusy Basin lake.

Day 2: Dusy Basin to the near the tarns on the JMT, a few miles below Helen Lake. We’re glad we did about half of the descent from Bishop Pass to Le Conte canyon the previous day. The total descent from the pass is about 3,700’ and it was nice to split in roughly in half. Once at the JMT we started climbing. We ended up camping in one of the last established campsites. It’s in the area of a few tarns.

Day 3. JMT to the western Ionian Basin. We left camp and hiked to Helen Lake. From there our cross country adventure began. Getting to the base of Black Giant Pass was strait forward as was getting to the top of the pass. From the top of the pass we descended to lake 11834. The descent was rocky (OK, the entire Ionian Basin is rocky), but the route finding was not too difficult. From the lake we descended down the waterfall section. The route finding on this section was not too difficult either. We set up camp adject to the tarn at 11516. This was a great place to camp.

Day 4. Eastern Ionian Basin to Martha Lake. We started the day descending the eastern section of the basin toward Chasm Lake. Just above Chasm Lake we started climbing into the western part of the basin. Up the creek for a while and then up the slopes to the left. We arrived at lake 11598 where we’d camped before. The next section up to lake 11844 was not too difficult. I knew that getting around this lake would be a challenge. We were careful and took our time. At this lake we saw the only carin in the Ionian Basin. We did a small descent to lake 11824. We crossed at the isthmus and then climbed up to lake 11995. I saw a trip report here that advised to staying high. That was good advice. We climbed up a bit before the traverse. We arrived at lake 12228 and then lake 12273. We had planned to camp here but decided to push on to Martha Lake. Lake 12273 is pretty much at the top of Goddard Col. We descended towards Martha Lake. The way down is almost a slot canyon and very unique. As we exited the canyon we came upon the crux moves of the trip. While Goddard Col is rated Class 2, we had to do a small section that bordered on class 4. I wonder if we exited too low and thus the non-Class 2 section. We walked around Martha Lake and camped near the outlet. This was an amazing day. I never figured we’d get through much of the Ionian Basin in a day. We were beat.

Day 5. Our plan was to hike down the canyon and then cross country to Davis Lakes. We quickly realized that with our improved fitness that we’d arrive too early in the day. We changed our plans and continued down the canyon to the JMT. I’d never been down the lower part of the canyon and I’m glad we did it. Lots of waterfalls. At the JMT we headed up to Evolution Valley. Our goal was to go as far into the valley as possible. We ended up camping at the east end of Evolution Valley, very close to the climb up to Evolution Basin. We estimate we hiked about 15 miles.

Day 6. Evolution Valley over Lamark Col to North Lake. We started hiking at 6am. First the climb out of Evolution Valley and then the use trail towards Lamark Col. It’s initially very steep but eases up a bit near the lowest Darwin Lake. The area is stunning. Now we had to get past the 4 highest lakes to the base of Lamark Col. This was challenging. A few times we had to climb away from the lakes for an easier talus crossing and then go right back to lake level. Eventually we got past the 4 lakes. Now it’s a 1,000’ climb to the col. Initially it was easy to find the way but about 25% up there’s a rocky section where the trail is hard to follow. Fortunately, 2 hikers were heading down so we saw the way through. A while later we were at Lamark Col. We did not linger. The initial descent was very loose and we carefully worked our way down. Once down about 100-200 vertical feet it really eases up. We were now safe. Bro hugs all around. While we still had to hike over 3,500’ down, the challenges of the trip were over. About 4 hours later we were at the North Lake trailhead. While not positive about the day’s distance it was about 14 miles. Over 3,000’ up and over 3,500’ down. We finished at 6pm. A tough 12-hour day.

The dream of doing this trip was now a reality and we had accomplished our goal safely. We all agreed that descriptions and pictures of the Ionian Basin could never capture the rugged beauty and isolation of that place. A remarkable place in a spectacular range.

[windknot]

Thanks for the report and photos! Sounds like you guys had a great time, and nice way to return to an area after 25+ years.

[papercup]

Awesome trip! This sounds like one of those hikes where the scenery is stunning from start to finish. I'm think that you probably are correct about the tough stretch on Goddard Col. I'm guessing that you hit this bit when you're dropping out of the rocky drainage and onto the slopes above Martha Lake? I think that the easiest way to do it is to make that transition as high as possible, and I can easily see how it'd be difficult if you tried to do it lower down.

[OutdoorRandy]

papercup,

You are correct. Looking back I think we should have exited higher.

[sekihiker]

The Ionian Basin looked drier than I've ever seen it.
Here is what it looked like in August 1996: http://www.sierrahiker.com/EnchantedGorge/index.html
Thanks for the report and photos.

[giantbrookie]

Neat to return to an old favorite. Your photos capture the stark beauty of that area so well and the general feel persists be it a dry or wet year. It is interesting to see Ionian Basin with so little snow in July, even in a dry year, but 2021 is extra dry. I went through Ionian Basin and the general area at about the same time of year in 1994, a dry-ish year (sandwiched between wet ones) and snow certainly made travel through Ionian Basin a bit more difficult. Twice we had to make major detours off our planned route because we found little gaps blocked by snowpatches crowned with steep headwalls or cornices. Such snow patches are absent this year. Still, even in a dry year, there are those little oases of color such as the monkey flowers in your photo along the North Fork Goddard Creek.

[OutdoorRandy]

Good to know the flower name. After posting I realized that the photo captions for the North Fork of Goddard Creek were incorrect. It's the South Fork of the San Joaquin River.

Your comment about the snow travel is interesting. Before the trip I assumed that the snow would make it easier. In the 1980’s trips I did not experience any cornices but I see how that could thwart you. Having done it with and without snow, I’m not sure which is easier. Probably depends on the section and year/snow level.

[SSSdave]

Thanks for the photo tour. Its starkness reminds me why I haven't returned. Have been in Ionian Basin twice in 1980 and 1981 both times en route to the top of Mt Goddard. Both trips we base camped at Martha Lake fishing for its large golden trout. There are of course a few other similar areas along the Sierra Crest like either side of Alpine Col or Williamson Bowl. Although some new explorers that have yet to visit such zones, are irresistibly drawn to experience alpine tundra and its remoteness, I much prefer lower elevations at or just below timberline. The South Fork of the San Joaquin River from the Evolution Valley junction to Martha Lake despite being a spectacular high elevation canyon with an all year river of significant size, is probably the most ignored in the range among the few such rivers. Odd also because it also has some of the best river fishing but then lakeitis has infected so many.

[tomba]

@OutdoorRandy, I am curious what maps did you use? The lake elevations that you mention differ by several feet from commonly used 7.5 minute USGS topographic maps, for example on CalTopo, or Tom Harrison maps.

[Harlen]

OutdoorRandy writes:

Good to know the flower name. After posting I realized that the photo captions for the North Fork of Goddard Creek were incorrect. It's the South Fork of the San Joaquin River.

Yes, but in the image with the long view down valley, you are looking toward the point where North Goddard Creek meets the San Joaquin. It is the creek that runs through the Davis Lakes Basin.

Loved that Monkey flower photo! Congratulations on putting together such a fine return trip with friends; how old is young friend's son who joined you?
Thanks for the trip report.