This past week I completed a loop in Ansel Adams and Yosemite Wilderness. In my own notes, I've called it Three Passes High Route. The concept was to visit the headwaters of three very distinct watersheds: The San Joaquin River with its dazzling array of rainbow-colored mineral deposits and volcanic geology, the Merced River whose headwaters from a vast amphitheater at the base of the Clark Mountain Range, and the Tuolumne River whose headwaters are in Lyell Canyon. To make this happen, I linked three notable passes: North Glacier Pass, Blue Lake Pass, and Parsons Peak (plus 4 other minor passes). I put together a route starting and ending at the Rush Creek trailhead, mixing trail and cross-country. It totals 50 miles with 15K’ gain. Along the way, 20 miles were off-trail, with a little bit of class 3.
Acknowledgements:
Much thanks to @maiathebee for her previous trip report (link). Maia’s notes were useful for building my own route down Maclure Creek and reconnecting with the PCT.
Photos:
I posted some photos in the comments. You can also view everything on Flickr (link).
- Overview map of the Three Passes High Route. My route is highlighted in red. The three major passes are highlighted in green. Other landmarks of interest are indicated in yellow.
STORY:
Day 1: Rush Creek Trailhead to (north of) North Glacier Pass
The Rush Creek trailhead parking lot was virtually full at 8:00am on Sunday. I found one of the last remaining parking spots and then sorted my gear in the hot morning sun. I started hiking at 8:30, and it was slow going at first. My pack felt heavy with six days of food, and I could feel the altitude pressing upon me. I passed many day hikers presumably headed to Gem Lake, but the crowds thinned when I turned south towards Agnew Pass. The climb was steep and my legs were not yet hardened by the mountains. Thankfully, the trail was well-engineered with a constant grade. I put down my head and settled into a slow-but-steady uphill pace.
I reached Clark Lakes at noon, and enjoyed lunch beside one of the tarns. My new favorite backpacking lunch is garlic tuna wrapped in a flour tortilla, dressed with chipotle almond paste (Bitchin' Sauce). It’s quick to assemble, and delivers a mix of fat, carbs, and protein to keep me energized.
I expected to reach Thousand Island Lake earlier in the day, but I had forgotten how much this trail rolls up-and-down along the headwaters of the Middle Fork San Joaquin. I eventually reached the lake at 2pm. The vista overlooking the lake Lake is totally iconic and inspiring, no matter how many times I revisit this place. Around the lake outlet, a dozen different groups sunbathed, camped, and lounged in various nooks and beaches. It seems this place is large enough to absorb everyone, and the crowds didn't bother me today. I walked further along the north shore. The trail disappeared and I soon found solitude. I took a nap in the shade of a scraggly pine tree.
An hour later, I left the trail and continued cross-country towards North Glacier Pass. The walking here was easy and scenic. I followed the creek uphill through green meadows and past small waterfalls. I reached the highest meadows at 5:30, and it seemed like a good place to camp. I found a sandy spot for my tent. Nearby, the snowmelt creek roared to glory. Banner Peak and Mount Davis loomed over the site, glowing golden in the sunset. I felt wiped-out---I was still acclimating. After a quick dinner, I basically collapsed in my tent.
Day 2: North Glacier Pass to Lower Blue Lake
Today’s goal was to traverse a section of Steve Roper’s Sierra High Route (SHR, link), starting at North Glacier Pass.
I started climbing the talus at 7am. One hour later I was standing atop North Glacier Pass staring at the base of Banner Peak. I felt a mix of excitement and apprehension about the upcoming section of the SHR. Fourteen years ago, I had done this SHR section in the opposite direction, but it all seemed different today and not quite matching my memory. From Lake Catherine, the SHR descends a series of waterfalls and gullies to eventually reach Twin Island Lakes. The terrain is steep and complicated, and the route-finding is not always obvious. Fortunately I had done my homework in Google Earth, and prepared a GPS track based on notes from my friends. One tricky part is at 10760’, where an 80-foot waterfall blocks the descent. Following my notes, I traversed west on a granite shoulder to find a class 3 down-climb. Another tricky section is at 10430’, where the recommended route is to traverse north (away from the creek) to reach an abandoned mule trail in a different gully that descends to the 10000’ level. I think both of these sections would have been confusing and frustrating without good notes.
I reached Twin Island Lakes at 12:30. The eastern shore of the lake is protected by a granite dome, and it provided an unexpected challenge to reach the lake’s outlet. I found myself bouldering along the eastern shore of the lake with several class 3 moves over water. Perhaps there is a better route?! [Edit: I probably should have traversed on the south side of the big dome?]
I crossed the outlet of Twin Island Lake---only knee deep this year---and soon arrived at its sister lake. I found an established campsite above the southern shore, protected in a pine grove. I expected this to be my only shade opportunity for a long time today, so I sprawled on my Tyvek sheet and napped through the peak of the afternoon heat.
The rest of my day on the SHR was a blur, but straightforward. After leaving Twin Island Lakes, the route alternated amongst meadow terraces, talus fields, and slab-walking. My views were dominated by expansive southern vistas overlooking the North Fork San Joaquin River. I paused many times to simply gape in amazement at the intricate landscape far below me: a complicated playground of domes, meadows, and waterfalls. The feeling of wilderness was strong here.
I reached Bench Canyon at 5pm, relieved to be safely done with the traverse from North Glacier Pass. I soaked my feet in the creek and rested my wobbly legs. Bench Canyon is like an enchanted dream with its countless flower gardens, waterfalls, and granite spires. With the sun still high in the sky, I slowly wandered upstream through the canyon and frequently stopped for photographs.
I arrived at Lower Blue Lake as the sun dipped below the Clark Range. After my long day of sun exposure, I was relieved to finally be under cool mountain shadow. I setup camp near the lake outlet, on a sandy bench with a vista of the Minarets and the Silver Divide in the distance.
Day 3: Lower Blue Lakes to Lewis Creek
The sunrise illuminated the east face of Blue Lake Pass. I sipped hot coffee and studied the ascent before me. Although I had read the notes (link), I was still unsure about the best line up the pass. RoguePhotonic previously used a rock ledge route, but it looked sketchy from my vantage. I ultimately followed my instincts and ascended a series of grassy gullies to reach a meadow at 11040’, and then crossed talus and granite slabs to arrive at the pass.
I descended the west face of Blue Lake Pass by traversing northwest---maintaining my altitude---and aiming for the prominent quartz mound to the north. Although this traverse was relatively short, I found the talus to be especially loose and crumbly here. It was slow going, and I stepped with caution.
The rest of my morning was a blur as I walked through the lush meadows of Foerster Creek, while admiring the sweeping views of the Clark Range. The walking here was easy, and I sort of stumbled around in a zig-zag taking photographs and admiring wildflowers. I eventually rejoined the Isberg Pass trail and followed the switchbacks down the Lyell Fork of the Merced River. At the bottom, I fondly recalled memories from the 2016 HST Meetup where I was first introduced to this region of Yosemite. @maverick
The remainder of my afternoon was hiking on a well-engineered trail. After two days of cross-country walking, it felt refreshing to turn off my brain and not think about every footstep. I cruised through the forest, followed the trail, and enjoyed the filtered sunlight and bird song. I did not see anyone all day, which is an unexpected treat for Yosemite. When I reached the Lewis Creek trail junction, my progress slowed as I encountered dozens of downed trees. I wondered if this section of trail didn't receive maintenance during the past COVID year?
Eventually I reached the meadows below Vogelsang Pass, at the 10000’ level. I was exhausted and I found a nice campsite on a forested bluff above Lewis Creek.
Day 4: Lewis Creek to Rush Creek Forks
Today’s goal was to climb Parsons Peak, Amelia Earhart Col, Donohue Pass, and ultimately return to the Ansel Adams Wilderness.
I started by ascending the trail towards Vogelsang Pass. At 10500’, I departed from the trail and ascended the grassy watershed going north. At 10900’, I turned east and walked along the so-called Parsons Traverse, a class 1-2 plateau that extends from Fletcher Peak to Parsons Peak. The views from the traverse were outstanding, stretching from the Clark Range in the southwest to Mount Conness in the north. The wind was fierce as I approached Parsons Peak, and I stopped to put on all my clothes.
I reached Parsons Peak at 11:30am. The peak is more like a long ridge. I inspected all three possible summit bumps, but I couldn't find a register. Anyway, after enjoying a (windy) lunch, I descended Parsons’ southeast face. I stopped to refill my water at Thank You Tarn (link), which is really just a seasonal puddle of melting snow.
From here, I joined a route previously described by @maiathebee (link). I crossed Amelia Earhart Col (unofficial name), which is the saddle south of Amelia Earhart Peak. I then traversed counterclockwise around Maclure Creek to rejoin the PCT at 10200’. The Maclure Creek basin was incredibly scenic with numerous meadows and waterfalls. I will definitely return here, especially because it’s relatively easy to access from Tuolumne Meadows.
I rejoined the PCT in the afternoon. Although I had not seen any humans in several days, I now encountered northbound hikers every ten minutes. I stopped counting at 50 people. It seemed to be rush hour on the PCT!
As I approached Donohue Pass, I was surprised to see my friend Christy sitting alongside the trail. It’s always a pleasure to unexpectedly meet friends in the wilderness. Christy and her buddy Michelle were hiking northbound along a section of the PCT. We took a break from hiking and chatted for an hour about trips, life, and all sorts of things.
Sunset was approaching, so I said goodbye to my friends and continued over Donohue Pass. I rested at the summit tarn, and cooked dinner as dusk arrived. Today had been a long day for me, and I felt wiped-out. The sun soon dipped below the Clark Range, and I continued southbound on the PCT. I hiked further in the cool evening light, and camped on a granite shelf overlooking the Rush Creek Forks.
Day 5: Exit to Rush Creek Trailhead
Today was my last day on this route, and I was feeling lazy. I slept until 8am! I eventually got hiking, and followed the trail downhill, soon leaving the PCT. I passed Waugh Lake, Gem Lake, and Agnew Lake. Waugh Lake was a dramatic scene---all dry---a stark reminder of our current drought. Later on, below Agnew Lake, I soaked my tired feet in the creek before returning to the Rush Creek trailhead at 2pm.
Overall, I feel proud of accomplishing this route. The SHR section was challenging, and it allowed me to visit a seldom-traveled wilderness area where I found deep solitude. Climbing Parsons Peak was a highlight of the trip, and I appreciate how it connected the Vogelsang with Lyell Fork area in a way that feels new and refreshing to me.
Photos posted in comments. . .
