What a trail it has been. The Tahoe rim trail is definitely a place I shall have to return to and complete someday. The PCT only followed 50 miles worth but OMG it was stunning! I had one cowboy camp up on the rim where I had a panoramic view of the Lake bordered by dark volcanic peaks. The sunset turned the lake into a blue-black cauldron and the ring of mountains surrounding the lake were set ablaze with alpenglow. The next morning the sun rose and reflected of off the water as I continued the trail and glinted at me through the trees and occasional windows out onto the lake.. epic.
The most memorable experiences are the numerous ridge top sections amongst the peaks. At times the trail is down in the canyons and tree bound/viewless but them it climbs again and the mountain ranges explode into view around you!
Section P (Schaffer Guide PCT) which I just finished from Castella to Etna Summit was just such a section. Volcanic peaks and almost flat (by PCT standards) hiking amongst them with lakes and crystal spings along the route.
Before Burney Falls I hiked the Hat Creek Rim, a waterless stretch of 33 miles though there is a maintained water cache at mile 22. It was hot that day so after a visit to Subway cave outside Old Station I set out at 4PM and night hiked the rim till midnight! It was incredible! The sensation of hiking by headlamp and the night sounds, the stars.. amazing. I made that 22 mile cache and camped and got up before sun-up and was off the exposed and treeless rim before the heat set in. Later that same morning I made it to Burney Falls which is a river that comes right up out of the earth's crust suddenly and pours over a waterfall at 50 degrees F shortly thereafter!
Just this morning while hiking down to Etna summit I turned a corner in the trail and there were a bunch of goats sitting there, some with packs on.. I was kinda stunned and looked around top find what appeared to me to be "Mother Nature" herself standing there. Clad in a homespun leather skirt she and her husband were "goat packing" 18 goats. Living solely off the 4 gallons of goats milk and wild edibles along the way north! Amazing!
I really can't even scratch the surface here of all that has happened. I will have more computer time tomorrow as I will be zeroing here in Etna. I have been doing 36 miles a day and even though I feel just fine my fellow thru's say I should give my body a rest and I am inclined to believe them. Quite a few have fallen by the wayside with stress fractures,giardia,and even broken bones. I am going to count my blessings and the fact that I have regained about 7 of the 30 lbs I lost and take a day to recharge.. besides They have GREAT cinnamin rolls here.. and a real live Soda fountain in the drug store! I feel like Templeton the rat from the Charlottes web book/cartoon. Remember what he said upon his first visit to the county fair afterhours?!
"Life is a schmorgasbord.. orgas orgasbord!" As he rolled on his fat belly having eaten every kind of food imaginable!
"Rich my friends!" He exclaimed.
I will post again tomorrow and try to be a bit more thorough. Thanks for all your support and well wishes! I tried to answer back since Lake Tahoe but these backwoods computers as well as the time limits and waiting lists have conspired against me.
I am the luckiest man on Earth.
I have 1058 miles to go to reach the Canadian Border.
I shall cherish every single footstep!
Cheers Hetchy-Iceaxe
