Day 0 - Fly from Dallas into Reno, drive 395 to Independence
My recent trips entering the east side of the Sierras began by flying from Dallas into Las Vegas and driving through either Death Valley or north by Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. To change things up, I flew into Reno, Nevada this time with the intention of enjoying the 395 drive and seeing a section of the Sierras that I have yet to visit. After landing in Reno and picking up the rental car, I immediately stopped by the REI conveniently located right outside the airport for fuel and started driving toward Independence.
The original goal for my annual trip to the Sierra was to enjoy the Upper Kern via Shepherd Pass over 7 days. Unfortunately, the Coffeepot fire would play spoiler this year. Apparently even in average snow years, wildfire is still a risk in August! I had been monitoring the daily fire updates for a week or two by this point and was concerned primarily about air quality. Shepherd Pass was going to be difficult enough coming from sea level without the added difficulty of smoke in the air. I stopped by the Mono Basin Visitor Center to speak with rangers there. I decided to play it safe and had them print out my Plan B permit for Bear Lakes.
After arriving in Independence and smelling smoke, I made the call to visit Bear Lakes.
Day 1 - Pine Creek TH to Granite Park
8.59 miles - 4,409 ft gain
Starting elevation - 7400 ft
Ending elevation - 11,400 ft
I started the day at dawn after a fitful night's sleep. After smelling smoke outside and once again checking the air quality forecast, I packed up and headed north to through Bishop to the impressive Pine Creek Canyon. I had read several trip reports and had mapped out this itinerary on Caltopo in the past few months, but there was definitely a sense of adventure with this route as it wasn't fresh in my memory. I first recalled an important piece of information - the trail began after walking through the stable. Feeling great already about finding the trail, I set off for the climb up the canyon. Thankfully, most of the climb by the old Tungsten Mine and up to Honeymoon Lake was in the shade. I could easily believe that this would be quite warm during the afternoon and peak summer hours. I made great time to lunch break in a large camping area between Pine Lake and Upper Pine Lake.
My original goal was Honeymoon Lake (10.4k) for acclimation, pacing, and tree line sheltering with the new tarp (first backpacking trip with a tarp), but ambitiously decided to continue to Granite Park. I had, after all, expected 5.2k elevation gain via Shepherd Pass! Unfortunately, I really started to slow down and feel the altitude shortly after Honeymoon Lake. The extra push to Granite Park didn’t start to bear fruit until arriving at Lake 11,312 when trees became more sparse and views opened up. Frustrating up/down at the end of the day led to U-shaped lake at 11,355 ft where a nice established campsite was just too tempting. A cluster of trees partially blocked SW winds, making it ideal for pitching the tarp in open A-frame configuration. The wind was partially blocked so no difficulty in erecting tarp and anchoring well in the soil. Nice views over a low point in the crest allowed for impressive views of Feather and Royce peak.
I tried fishing Lake 11.3k and did have a bite or two, but the fish easily escaped my rookie attempts.
7.15 miles - 1484 ft gain/loss
My typical backpacking trip involves the daily routine of packing up all my gear, moving locations, and re-establishing camp elsewhere. I've been experimenting more recently with a different travel approach where I relocate to interesting areas every-other day and spend the rest of the time exploring and wandering the area with a lighter day pack. To offset the aggressive vertical gain from yesterday and hopefully acclimate a bit more, I chose a restful day exploring Chalfant Lakes immediately to the north of Granite Park. It did not disappoint.
As usual, I slept fitfully on the first night at altitude. This wasn't a surprise since I was at 11.4k feet! My original plan for the day was based on starting from Honeymoon Lake and entering the Chalfant Lakes basin from the east. I would then move up the basin, fishing the lakes, until reaching the last tarn where I would then head southwest to cross into Granite Park and descend through Granite Park to Honeymoon Lake (i.e., a counter-clockwise loop). I instead decided to reverse this loop and start with a slight ascent into Granite Park and drop into Chalfant Lakes from my higher camp. A well-established use trail led me up to Granite Park where I then moved cross-country north and descended into Chalfant Lakes. The descent was a little loose in spots, but not terribly difficult. I spent the majority of the morning fishing and wandering east through the Chalfant Lakes. I was successful fishing the upper lakes, but nothing larger than 6 inch cutthroat trout. There was a surprisingly large bounder field at the exit of the Chalfant Lakes basin followed by easily country south to meet the trail back to camp. I tried taking a nap in the afternoon, but the thin material of the Slingfin tarp didn't shade me much. I took an evening stroll around Lk 11,434, but didn't have any luck with fishing.
Day 3 - Italy Pass and Bear Lakes
8.59 miles - 2726’ gain, 2980’ loss
Starting elevation - 11,400 ft
Ending elevation - 11,146 ft
Big day as I was to cross over 2 passes (Italy Pass and Dancing Bear Pass). After packing up and ascending the same trail as yesterday, this time with a pack, I turned farther west and enjoyed more of the alpine scenery. I glanced over my left shoulder several times at Granite Bear Pass - its lingering snow and seemingly loose rock. No thanks! I had heard this was a shortcut directly into Bear Lakes Basin/Black Bear Lake.
After a brief visit to collect water at the uppermost lake (Lk 11,834), I was off to search for Italy Pass. The map shows this as a primitive trail, but that is being generous. This “trail” was more of a route, connecting cairns with slightly more eroded paths together. I enjoyed this pick-your-own adventure as it set the mood for the next few days where I not see any established trail. The top portion of Italy pass was navigating back and forth along benches, slowing gaining altitude on each switchback. I finally made it to the top (northern part of the saddle). I attempted Mount Julius Caesar, but gave up halfway due to discomfort with all of the large boulders.
In traversing the basin above Jumble Lake, I picked my own way, trying to maintain elevation as much as possible. Boulder fields and rock outcroppings pushed me lower to about 12k where I had to make a decision regarding the snowfield guarding Dancing Bear Pass - go the right or left. Going left would allow for preserving more elevation at the expense of what I estimated as a longer route with more challenging, energy-intensive terrain. I instead chose to drop to the snow-fed creek at 12k (freshest tasting water ever) and regain the elevation on the right (north) side of the snow field. I briefly tested the snow field, and sure enough, it was a little mushy in the afternoon, giving some perhaps false confidence that it could be ascended. I chose instead to follow the boulders on the right side and was quickly at what was a fairly long passageway between Pt 12749 (NW) and Pt 12,680 (SE). I was impressed by the difference in terrain of these mountains - the SE peak (facing NW) had more boulders/rocks while the NE peak (facing SW) was smoother and more polished. Amazing the impact of the sun and thaw cycles on the topography.
After lunch, I made my way down from Dancing Bear Pass to the impressively large and clear-watered Black Bear Lake. I found the first of several sand “beaches” along the west shore and footprints of unidentified animals. I also gazed due east toward Granite Bear Pass…it was a walk in the park on this side!
I continued my descent to Big Bear Lake, following the creek exiting the lake on the SW corner. My original plan was to find a campsite around the tarn SE of Big Bear Lake. Unfortunately, I found it dried up in an average snow year. After stopping briefly at Ursa Lake for some water, I decided to seek lower elevation for camping at Lee Lake. Hiking around the Bear Lakes area was interesting due to wide "corridors" bounded by cliffs. This network, once I figured it out, enabled some quick travel among the lakes. One of these corridors led me to south to my very scenic but rather exposed campsite east of Vee Lake. I gave myself bonus points for following Leave No Trace because the lake was .14 miles away and 100' below the campsite! Thankfully, I would be blessed with little wind and no storms the entire week.
- Day 3 Route
- Dancing Bear Pass from Italy Pass
- Lunch overlooking White Bear Lake