Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

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Harlen
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Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by Harlen »

We finally made time to explore the volcanoes of the Cascade Range north of the Sierra Nevada.  Since a young age, I had been drivin all around the Oregon Cascades by my Oregonian Grandfather, and his brother, my truly great Uncle Ed, who lived out in wild Eastern Oregon.  I was fascinated by the snow capped look of those Cascade peaks, and also by some of their names:  "Three Fingered Jack," "Broken Top," and since I was a teenager-- "Bachelor and The Three Sisters"-- Oh my!   We hardly got out of the car on these mammoth driving tours, and if we did, it was to fire Grandpa's rifle and pistols.  Uncle Ed had a deep appreciation for wild animals, and took me up on Hart Mountain to see vast herds of Pronghorn Antelope, who left dust clouds behind them as they ran!  Together, Grandpa and Uncle Ed managed to transfer to me a fascination for geology, wildlife and mountain country, so I was primed to return and explore some of these volcanoes.  

This venture became another of Lizzie and my odd, spontaneous trips, because in the beginning our early summer plan had been to drive into Idaho to backpack in the craggy granite Sawtooth Range.  In speaking by phone to an Idaho ranger, I got the distinct impression that in June, the route we wanted to travel was going to be a cold, slushy snow nightmare.  Since we were still keen to travel, we quickly switched to our other goal-- to see, and ramble around in the volcanic Cascade Range.  Our plans were loose, and some of the access routes to the Cascades were also going to be challenging.
Unfortunately, our own 3 week tour (Me, Lizzie and Bearzy and Wolfie) also became mostly a drive by, with wild camping sites, day hikes, and scrambles on a few choice ridges of these volcanic areas.  We took our old Plymouth van again, and took our time by traveling back roads and quiet highways.  Having the dogs with us precluded backpacking in the National Parks of Crater Lake and Washington's Mt. Rainier N.P., and our final  destination-- Olympic National Park.  My lofty goal was to climb Mt. McLoughlin, Mt. Thielson, and all of the Sisters.  Instead, we gazed up at the first two beautiful snowy mountains, and due to the combined challenges of long hikes in mosquito hell and high water to reach them, and our dog Bearzy's worsening seizure condition, we set our sights lower down the mountains.  This trip became Bearzy's last travels, and at the end of it, when we finished with a backpacking trip in the Sierra, he sadly was finished too.  Sad, sad, but now we realize that it was a magical month of being so close together.  We spent every moment of every day together, and we slept in a pile with the dogs in the van each night.  I am still gutted by the loss of our dog friend.  

.... This morning, I am picking up the dropped threads of this trip report.  It's been 2 months since writing about Bearzy above, and we are now in our fourth wonderful week with a wild new dog friend, who even reminds us of Bearzy.  Soon (when we are sure "Sierra" will not run off!) she will be gracing the images like the Coyote-Red Wolf cross that she appears to be.  I use the word appears loosely, as she is much more likely to be a street mix of Siberian Husky - Australian Cattle Dog - Kelpie, and god knows what else, but she has that great wild dog look.  We finally felt ready to add a new big dog to our lives, in large part to have a playmate for Wolfie, and that is working out really well!


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Sierra is a challenging big pup, who is ~11 months old. She was abandoned, and living on the street; we got her from a shelter, and are now confident that she will work out. Okay, enough of the too personal bits about our life with dogs, let me share what we saw and learned about the next big range north of our Sierra-- The High Cascades.


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We began with Mt. Shasta, the second Cascade giant after Mt. Lassen.


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Travel partners Lizzie, Bear, and Wolfie.  Castle Crags are seen to  the right.  We were drawn farther west of Castle Crags by some bigger peaks, and the hope of a great viewpoint campsite.  We had the great luck to see a glossy black Black Bear just off the road!


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From a high ridge we could see the Trinity Alps to the west.


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I had hoped to summit one of these peaks.


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Aiming for a mountaintop, I climbed into this notch, and then above on sketchy rock, till I opted for discretion over stupidity.


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Shasta from the north.


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Mt. McLoughlin, the first Oregon Cascade Volcano on our list.


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The view is from our beautiful camp by Fourmile Lake.  You'll note the headnet on my wife.  Lizzie states that for her, this was the very worst clouds of mosquitoes ever! 



The state of Oregon is composed of more volcanic rock than any state except for Hawaii.  Western Oregon is part of the "Pacific Ring of Fire,"  Oregon lies on the northeast edge of that "Ring," where the Juan de Fuca plate is slipping beneath the North American plate.  The Cascade volcanoes arise east of the plate boundary, and the area is known as the Cascadia Subduction Zone.  This is just one of many of Oregon's volcanic areas, each with their own history.  The uplift of the High Cascades began (by most accounts) between  5 and 10 million years ago.  There have been some very dramatic recent events, like the eruption of Mt. St. Helens in 1980, and Mt. Lassen, which blew multiple times between 1914 - 1917. However, the most dramatic event was the eruption of ~12,000' Mt. Mazama about 7,700 years ago.  This is the cataclysmic eruption that literally blew the top off the mountain, and then kept blowing till 50 cubic miles of rock and ash had been lifted off!  The last of Mt. Mazama's base finally collapsed, leaving a crater over 3,000' deep!  Crater Lake was formed over time purely through the accumulation of rainwater and snowmelt trapped in the elevated crater. 


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Crater Lake seen from the south west. 

 
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 As you can see from the photos above, mountain walls rise up to 1600' above the surface of the lake, which is about 6,350,' and the lake is 1,949' at its deepest.  Crater Lake is called the 11th deepest lake in the world, and judged by its "mean depth" of 1.157' it is 5th in the world (Lake Tahoe is the 6th at 1.009'). [* If you want to check out the world's most fascinating lake (IMO), go to this link to see images and read about Antarctica's Lake Vostok.  I got interested in Vostok since it recently pushed Crater Lake out of 10th place on the lake list.  Among other oddities, deep Lake Vostok seems to begin below sea level, with 2.5 miles of ice above! (* "The surface of this lake is approximately 4,000 m (13,100 ft) under the surface of the ice, which places it at approximately 500 m (1,600 ft) below sea level.") 
I find this is hard to imagine!   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Vostok ].


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That is Mt. Thielsen in the distance, our next destination.  
Last edited by Harlen on Fri Mar 14, 2025 2:49 pm, edited 12 times in total.
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Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by Harlen »

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Driving north of Crater Lake we met up with Mt. Thielsen, which may be the very sharpest of all the Cascade volcanoes.  


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A pair of Oregon climbers I met in the Sierra told me that it is a surprisingly easy, though exposed, scramble to its summit.  I am very keen to climb it this summer with my sons, along with Mt. McLoughlin, and the Three Sisters- all the mountains we failed to attempt on this trip.  Mt. Thielsen, Mt. Washington, and Three Fingered Jack all have volcanic plug formations that serve to sharpen them.  Here's an interesting fact about volcanic necks or plugs:  "Technically, volcanic necks and plugs are intrusive [volcanic rock] because they consist of rock that solidified within the Earth. But they were once part of volcanoes and solidified at very shallow depths, potentially even ascending to the level of the former eruptive vent." Being more resistant than the overlying material these remain tall after the looser material has eroded away.  Hopefully, these plug features should offer more solid rock for climbing.


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I must add a shot of the Oregon forest.  We drove through miles and miles of giant trees, in this case Ponderosa Pines, some of which must be reaching their maximum height of 220'!  .....Well I have now sorted out the true maximum height.  I fact-checked my 220' memory, and found the troubling height of only 130' in a couple of legit seeming sources?  Digging further, I came up with this definitive and fascinating account:  (*Speaking about an exceptional Ponderosa tree in Oregon)   "...The tree was climbed on October 13, 2011, by Ascending The Giants (a tree-climbing company in Portland, Oregon) and directly measured with tape-line at 268 ft 3 in (81.77 m) high. As of 2015, a Pinus lambertiana specimen was measured at 273 ft 9+1⁄2 in (83.45 m), which surpassed the ponderosa pine previously considered the world's tallest pine tree."] 
So there you have it, Ponderosas can grow to nearly 270' (perhaps it has reached it now?), and the Sugar Pine (P. lambertiana) is the world's tallest pine species of all.  Anyhow, it is amazing to drive beneath them.


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Middle and North Sister Peaks.  We lucked out and arrived the day after the dirt road to 3 Creeks Lake had been plowed.  The snow plowing was just the highest few miles, before that it was more a matter of removing all the fallen fire-killed snags from the road.  Beautiful peaks, sad burnt forest.


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All Three Sisters seen here.  They were formerly  named by early settlers "Hope," "Faith," and "Charity."  Thankfully it changed to South, Middle, and North.  Oregon friends told me of a "Three Sisters Traverse," which is a challenging 18 mile, 9,000' climbing adventure.  I am planning to do this in the distant future, when that "old man strength" I've heard about finally kicks in.


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This is the "Tam-McArthur Rim", which is all we managed to climb in our youth.  There are great views, near and far from up on it.  The route begins at Three Creeks Lake.


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The far view begins as you climb above Three Creeks Lake.  Left to right:  Mt. Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, and Mt. Jefferson.


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Higher up on the Rim now, and to the right of Jefferson you can see Mt. Hood, and distant Mt. Adams, which is about 60 miles into Washington (red arrow).  These are some of the very highest of the High Cascade Range: Mt. Jefferson is the 8th tallest at 10,497'; Mt. Hood at 11,239' is 4th highest; and Mt. Adams is 3rd, at 12,280.'  The only taller mountains in the range are Mt. Rainer at 14,411, and our own 14,162' Mt. Shasta. 


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The near view is of Broken Top Peak, then the highest of the 10,000 foot Sisters-- 10,358 South Sister, white in the distance, and the crest of the "T-M Rim" dead center.  Right of center are Middle and then North Sister Peaks.


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Frozen ponds on the Rim.


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Craggy Broken Top Peak.


 
Last edited by Harlen on Fri Mar 14, 2025 2:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by Harlen »

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Mt. Jefferson is so attractive that we drove north, over Santiam Pass to get a closer look.  Instead, the best new view was of sharp Mt. Washington, and the Sisters to the south, seen below.


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After our short drive over Santiam Pass, we returned to the south end of the Three Sisters Mountains to explore the Falls Creek Valley, which leads up to Green Lakes.  Our Oregon friends put us onto this favorite hike of theirs.  It's a 9 mile round trip, and in June still very snowy for over half the way.  I got a pre-dawn start, and got to the lakes in beautiful morning light.  After my hike, Lizzie and the dogs joined me up to the falls.  Our camp was near the TH at Soda Creek, and near enough to walk toward the perfect volcano, Mt. Bachelor.  We enjoyed the marshy margins of Sparks Lake, seeing a lot of waterbirds: several ducks, Canada Geese, Sandhill Cranes, and a pair of Redtail Hawks perched together on the ground.  At one point I backed up to better see a crane by the road, and got the van perilously stuck in the deep gravel on the shoulder. [Bad language!]  But within minutes a young couple pulled over and yanked us out with their truck, and the tow rope I always take with us.


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Sparks Lake and Mt. Bachelor.


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Green Lakes were mostly white, but the mountains were lovely up close.


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From the Three Sisters Wilderness we headed north again to continue our drive-by exploration of the High Cascades.  Mt. Hood is right off the road-- one of the most climbed mountains in North America... but we just drove on by.
Last edited by Harlen on Fri Mar 14, 2025 2:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by Harlen »

The weather was holding for a few more days, and the old van, old dogs, and old us were all hanging in there.  So we plotted out a dream trip up through Washington's Mount Rainier National Park, and then northwest to Olympic National Park--two great places we had never been to.   For many years we have also been admiring images taken from Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park; images of the snowy peaks of the Olympic Range, and we had been looking forward to finally getting there too.   Shaggy white mountain goats often filled those images, and crazy stories told of them killing at least one man with their horns.  A wild place in my dreams, and what a place to backpack into someday-- "The Bailey Traverse" is inspiring!  Maybe one day we'll do it, but that is another trip.  We did reach Hurricane Ridge, and explored parts of Olympic NP, and carried on down the Pacific Coast, but that is the stuff for another report.  We'll stop this TR at Mt. Rainier, the highest up the High Cascade Range we got, though they continue on into Canada.  Luckily, we just managed to beat the coming snow storm, and saw our first view of Mount Rainier in a clear blue sky.  But then the clouds descended on that giant volcano right when we had reached the highest of the Park roads.  Oh well, on the way we were able to enjoy a nice waterfall hike, and some wildlife sights, including very young fawns.  The dark rocky mountains of the lower range were a nice consolation prize.  These are the closest peaks to Rainier, and their summits must have stunning views of Mt. Rainier, and all around.  Someday!


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Mt. Rainier at dawn.



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Mount Rainier was a fine finish to our tour of the High Cascades.
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Re: Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by c9h13no3 »

Harlen wrote: Fri Mar 14, 2025 12:26 pmThe dark rocky mountains of the lower range were a nice consolation prize.
The Tatoosh range & Lane Peak feel disrespected.
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Re: Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by Harlen »

c9h12no3 wrote:
The Tatoosh range & Lane Peak feel disrespected.
Are those the names that go with those mountains, Sam? They are very nice.
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Re: Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by c9h13no3 »

Harlen wrote: Fri Mar 14, 2025 4:58 pm c9h12no3 wrote:
The Tatoosh range & Lane Peak feel disrespected.
Are those the names that go with those mountains, Sam? They are very nice.
That they are.

I really enjoyed your report, despite their lack of names, whisky swilling, skis, or dog pics that is usually your brand.
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Re: Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by Harlen »

Thanks 9h12no3 / Sam, you are apparently the 1 out of 1,000 who enjoyed it, oh well.
BTW, I have been enjoying trips from your own blog ("that no one reads", *see above), especially your recent trip down the Dixie Couloir on Silver Peak, in the Sierra. Why don't you at least give us here at HST a link to you adventures? (*Note you can find them easily via the blue "here" in your signature lines, but it would be more direct if it were found in a sketch of a Trip Report in one of the board index categories. Why not?)

Since I know you are into endurance stuff, climbing and skiing, I will mention that the "Sisters Traverse" detailed in my report, is often done on skis. You can choose to climb the challenging summit of the North Sister, or bypass it to concentrate on the downhill fun. For me, the climbing would be the fun part, and I would creep down the slopes, but you could enjoy it all Sam. You seem to know Wa. mountains; do you also know Oregon's?

I appreciate your lone comment amigo, Harlen.
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Re: Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by LMBSGV »

Harden, this sounds like a wonderful trip. My wife and I were staying in Rainier from June 21 through June 24. Unfortunately, I got Coved (probably in Ashland) and there was snow almost everywhere so between the two we didn’t get to hike much. On top of that we were staying at the Paradise Inn, which is as far from an experience in paradise as possible except for the location. While the employees were extremely nice, everything else was pretty horrible. Our room was tiny (the bed took up most of the room) and the room and its miniscule bathroom had no hooks or shelves, which is something we’d never seen even in the cheapest, most run-down places. They ran out of most of their food and beer(!), which was overpriced and pretty lousy from what we did manage to get (it’‘s really difficult to screw up pizza, but they managed it). We won’t be staying there again. A few years ago, we stayed at Crater Lake at the same time in June (our anniversary is June 24) and really liked it and the park

I’m sorry to hear about Bearzy. I always enjoyed reading about his adventures. And thank you for the kind words on my Dusy Basin report.
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Re: Trip Report:Tour of the High Cascades- California to Washington, June 20, 2024

Post by SweetSierra »

I enjoyed reading your trip report. I love the Oregon Cascades and have roamed around much of the country in your photos. I led a trail maintenance trip to Mt. Rainier years ago and spent time on a few areas of the mountain. Incredibly beautiful and varied. Thanks for the report and photos.
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