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I'm thinking of doing the North Lake — South Lake loop via Lamarck Col and Darwin Canyon in early July, but this would be my first time doing XC hiking. From initial research, it sounds like Lamarck Col and Darwin Canyon are relatively easy to navigate but I wanted to get a gut check from other's with more experience. I'm very comfortable backpacking (did the JMT in late-June of 2022) and frequently do multi-day backpacking trips. I also have a basic understanding of route finding and map navigation. Our plan is to start from South Lake and work our way north.
Would appreciate any feedback and guidance! Thank you
Darwin Canyon/Lamarck Col are probably one of the better options in the Sierra for an experienced backpacker trying out cross-country for the first time. There's a well-defined use trail through much of Darwin Bench/Canyon, and as long as you know what direction you need to go in you won't miss it for long. Lamarck Col itself is a bit tricky to locate coming up from Darwin Canyon -- there are a ton of use trails going in all directions -- but again, if you know how to orient yourself and know what it should look like at the top then you'll find it eventually. Then once at the top, it's just a short steep stretch down (with a boot path tread in the snow field) and you'll hit a pronounced use trail all the way back down to North Lake.
Yeah, it is pretty chill, easier N to S for navigation reasons like windknot says. Don't do a swan dive off the boot pack on the snowfield and you'll be fine.
It looks like this.
"Adventure is just bad planning." - Roald Amundsen
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This is an awesome route! I do it quite often, usually staring at North Lake. If I hit bad weather near the end of a point to point hike (when reserves are typically running low), I prefer it to be on the easier end. Some notes:
Posted a few years ago, the key sign is just below the outlet of the Upper Lamarck Lake. It points to where one should cut left across the creek to the use trail to the Col.
Just below the Col, on the ascent of the lingering snow patch, do not veer too far to the left, where upward progress seems easier, as you will top out and see the Schober Lake drainage below (a 5th class down climb) .From here only a climber can directly traverse directly over to the signed Lamarck Col.
Getting lost in Darwin Canyon is impossible. Boulder- hopping down from the Col, I typically aim for the outlet of the highest Lake. Look back often to imprint in the brain where the Col is for any future return up that way. The best campsites in the Canyon are near the lower lakes.
Heading down the Bench, I refer to the Hermit in the distance as guidance. On the final steeper ascent to the JMT, stay left but close the creek. You will likely join the JMT at the turn in a switchback in the JMT. Take careful note of it for future hikes.
I'm also hoping to do Lamarck this year - mid July. I feel pretty comfortable with the route-finding part, but I'm a bit concerned about the snowpack. I know the winter is still going on, so we don't know the snowpack yet, but is the second week of July usually an okay time to do Lamarck without needing spikes or anything?
Also, am I crazy for trying to do the Col and reach the Bench in one day after flying in from PA the day before?
Yes, early July could have snow on the pass. Yes, you are crazy to try to reach Darwin Bench in one day, without acclimation. No the snow should not be a severe problem. To be safe, bring micro-spikes. There will likely be a beaten path but if icy spikes are needed even if you are standing in a flat footprint. Early season, there will be water in the tarn below the pass where you could camp if you end up altitude sick at that point, which is what happened to me the first time I did the route.
I mean, everyone has different fitness levels and is affected differently by altitude. I live at sea level and am on the younger side of middle aged in perhaps slightly better than average backpacking shape, but I am far from a superb specimen of human fitness. And yet I've been able to backpack over Lamarck Col and down to the third lake in the chain in the same day on two different occasions, driving up the night before and sleeping in my car at the trailhead or dispersed camping nearby. Darwin Bench is just a mile of downhill farther, so the extra distance is doable even on beat legs.
Would I recommend it as the ideal day 1? Nope. Does it make for a long and strenuous day? Sure. But those of us working stiffs can't always make ideal itineraries happen due to work obligations. If you've looked at the mileage/elevation and think you can do it based on past experience, then it's not crazy to try. But it would be a good idea to build buffer time into your itinerary in case you need to stop short for any reason.
