Upper Kern Basin: taking recommendations

[moonburn]

Howdy folks -- I've enjoyed reading reports and conversations on HST for the past several years, and now I'd like to run a proposed trip by you, ask if anyone has suggestions/recommendations for it.

For reference, I have Level 3 backpacking experience, and am pretty happy keeping within Class 2 territory. I've been backpacking in the Sierra Nevada for close to five years, mostly 2-4 night trips in Desolation Wilderness and Yosemite, but each year I take a longer trip with my friend, usually in SEKI or starting from an eastern TH.

This friend and I are planning a 7-night trip to the Upper Kern Basin, taking us into the first week of September. I've searched forums here and read several informative (and fun!) trip reports, as well as assorted intel on passes we're interested in. The rough plan I've sketched out has us staying a night at Onion Valley CG, then hiking over Kearsarge Pass, down to Vidette and on to Forester Pass... south then west to the Upper Kern Basin. From here, Milestone Basin seems worthy of exploration... we make our way north to the Kings-Kern Divide and either take Little Joe's Scramble or Harrison Pass over it... down to Reflection and East Lake... north to Bubbs Creek, then east and north, perhaps to Charlotte Lake before exiting on Day 8.

Here's that route mapped out: https://caltopo.com/m/7R0E548

If you've been to anywhere near where we're going, do you have recommendations for areas/lakes/creeks/views that you think should not be missed? I am all for exploration and finding my own fun, but I also know there's value in sharing our experience.

If you look at my itinerary/route and think "why the hell are they doing that?", then please share your thoughts.

Finally, I would love to hear some thoughts on selecting between Little Joe's Scramble and Harrison Pass. We'd be going south to north, with conditions being what they are this year. Most of the TRs and intel I have read about these discuss tackling them going north to south. The gist of what I've picked up is that Little Joe's is Class 2 all the way, but time consuming, whereas Harrison has some sketchy Class 2/3 at the very top, and then the going gets easier. If neither of these passes looks safe to us, or if weather conditions make it unsafe, we'll backtrack to Forester.

Thanks in advance!

[bobby49]

Like a lot of backpackers, I went over Harrison Pass north to south. The main problem, as I recall, was that the scree was awfully loose. I don't recall any particular route finding issues, except for a little wandering around between there and Reflection Lake.

[thegib]

Your trip sounds reasonable to me. My 2 cents are that the generally eastern facing basins of Milestone creek are more beautiful than the generally south facing plateau of upper Kern. Especially so in late season as your water sources diminish.

[GGC23]

From Milestone Basin, instead of turning around and hiking out the way you came in, I'd recommend crossing Milestone Pass --> Colby Pass trail --> Colby Pass --> ascend Cunningham Creek --> Longley Pass --> Lake Reflection. I did that route a few years ago, and Milestone Pass is probably my favorite off trail pass. The scenery is stunning, and it's one of those passes that looks totally improbable from afar, but then is actually quite easy when you get closer. The lower part of Cunningham Creek is unpleasant thick brush, but the upper part of the creek and Longley Pass are amazing.

[stevet]

Of the 2, Harrison and Little Joes, headed from the Upper Kern “south to north”, I prefer Little Joes.

I’ve been over Harrison twice. First time as a Boy Scout fifty years ago, a Ranger showed my troop the route which began well to the right (east) of the low point and pick its way through much unstable talus.

Second time, about 10 years later, some friends and I crossed but didn’t cut far enough to the right before beginning the descent. On this we skidded down a sandy slab nearly losing control before landing in a steep scree slope. Pucker factor was high as we skidded the slab.

Once in the canyon, the route picks its easy way along the creek to the Lake Reflection trail. I can only imagine, based on some more recent trips reports that the route from the pass is even sketchier.

My crossing of Little Joes was more recent, in a high-ish snow year. I chose Little Joes for its East/West orientation and lower snow/ice risk. Though longer, you’ll appreciate seeing much more of the Upper Kern basin on the ascent. The descent is quite steep, but stable footing all the way. About halfway down there is a Class 2/3 slab section to navigate (about 20’) where I stayed right and down climbed a joint. Then at the bottom there is a traverse of stable talus to the Lake Reflection outlet. The steep descent of Little Joe’s is much long than Harrison.

But overall, despite its length, being stable/less sketchy and more scenic I’d take Little Joes.

[moonburn]

Thanks for the input, everyone! Super helpful. Smoke from the Coffeepot Fire has now got me worried that we'll have to switch to a Plan B trip further north, but even if that's the case, I'll keep and use these notes in the future.

GGC23, that's an interesting route idea. It might take more time than we have, but I'll plot it out and see what it looks like.

SteveT, thank you for introducing me to the term "pucker factor!" Very fitting for all kinds of situations I've been in, lol. This is good intel, and always important to remember and value the scenery factor.

[Wandering Daisy]

I just got back from two loops from Onion Valley- first to Upper Kern, second Rae Lakes Loop. The winds as of yesterday are blowing the smoke mostly north. Owens Valley as amazingly clear but when I got to Mammoth, it was very smoky. Where the smoke goes from the CoffeePot fire is wind dependent. Right now, north is bad, south is better. Look at the smoke map on AirNow.

There was a sign at Junction Meadow that said there were over 20 downed logs on the trail to East Lake. Not sure if that meant big logs or just step-overs. As for Harrison Pass, it is not just the pass, but the "trail" down to the trail up to East Fork is not maintained and essentially gone. I have not done it for years, but a bit of bushwacking.

I was in the Upper Kern 8/17-19 on the west side and did not see a person or tent. It was wonderful! I too had planned on Harrison Pass, decided against it, and came back out over Forrester Pass. Once back on the PCT/JMT there were hordes of people. Center Basin was empty.

Both Forrester Pass and Glenn Pass have very exposed sections where you do not want to be on in high wind gusts- best done in the mornings.

[moonburn]

Thanks for this info,WD! What I'd been seeing on smoke forecast maps squares with your experience -- that southern areas that are east of the Great Western Divide have less smoke going on. I also appreciate the info on the trail to East Lake. I think we can handle some logs and bushwhacking, but if we're short on time, that may be a reason to opt for backing out via Forester. We're heading out this morning, will be hiking up to Kearsarge Pass at this time tomorrow

[moonburn]

Finally got around to posting a trip report:

viewtopic.php?t=23970

[Wandering Daisy]

Glad to hear you had a good trip! You did essentially what I had planned but chickened-out on dropping to East Lake either by Harrison Pass or Little Joe. It is nice to see that you two did that route. It is much more aesthetic than the retreat via Forrester Pass that I did.

Thanks for letting us know how it went.

Oops! I should have put this in your actual trip report post.