R03/R08 TR: SHR-Red's Meadow to Twin Lakes

[aogo]

This was our 3rd year and 2nd attempt to complete Roper's SHR as we bailed last year once we saw the steep snow slope leading into Iceberg Lake. We had significant logistical challenges this year including road closures into Red's as well as 395 and the Tuolumne campground closure/no camping rules prior to and after Tuolumne.

The trip began with 3 hours of light/moderate rain out of Red's Meadow. We had decided to take the trail to Minaret Lakes as we had done the high route from Red's to Minaret last year. As we approached the 9000 foot elevation mark on our way to Minaret, the sun peeked out and skies started to clear a bit. Still looked pretty ominous up higher so we decided to set up an early camp, dry out and enjoy a lazy afternoon. It did clear (forecast was spot on) overnight and temps dropped. I was glad to have down booties in addition to my socks and sleeping bag (I sleep cold).

The next morning was beautiful and we were glad we hadn't gone higher as a hiker told us it was very cold, windy and wet at Minaret. We hiked up towards Cecile Lake and as we caught our first glimpse of the lake, we also saw a pine martin running along the rocks. That was a neat sighting. Only seen one other; at Crater Lake in Oregon. We made our way down past Iceberg and down from there then up towards the area below the RItter/Banner Saddle. There we met a friendly man who had just climbed RItter (for the 5th time) with his Dog, named Ritter. No issues from there, down Whitebark Pass and over to Thousand Island lakes where we had a lovely, quiet evening.

The next day proved uneventful and our route finding decisions somehow all worked out and we made our way into the Twin Island lakes area and set up camp at the Southern Lake. This year/this late in the season, the ford at the outlet of the lake was easy and I'm average height, 5 feet 7 or so and quite light, 115 pounds.

Unfortunately day four would prove to be the opposite from day 3 in route finding (we can be added to the list of other SHR hikers getting temporarily lost in this section per Roper) although it was another gorgeous day weather wise; clear and not too hot. We did fine out of the lakes and around the radiating ridge but didn't find the correct valley to go up to the "wild and scenic lake". We spent some time trying to get it right and finally settled on an area to ascend and somehow made it work. It eventually involved a bit of class 4 moves so I knew we were off route. From there we identified a dark bluff but it was the wrong one. Should have realized that sooner but we eventually figured it out and got to the correct bluff. Then we went down the wrong side of the bluff so had quite a bit of backtracking to do. After that we made one more mistake (possibly a record number in one day!) by not descending all the way into Bench Canyon but that proved less consequential as we were easily able to get back on route from higher up. We camped a bit under Blue Lake as we were exhausted from all the extra effort during the day. This put us farther behind due to the weather and our route finding issues. Once again though it was a quiet and beautiful camping spot.

We awoke on day five to some smoke so messaged a friend who informed us there was a new fire in Kings Canyon sending plumes north. We passed Blue Lake and headed up to the pass. I don't think we took the intended route but once again it worked out and by the time we made it up to the top, the smoke has disappeared. We managed to find the Isberg Pass trail without any trouble and headed down to the Lyell Fork where we had a delightful break, cooling off in the water. We then headed toward Lewis Creek and at some point the trail area becomes quite sandy and difficult to follow. I got off the trail a little ways and used GPS to get me back on. No other issues and we ended up camping near a waterfall and along Lewis Creek before the trail intersection to Bernice Lake. Once again, it was a quite and lovely camping area...until we heard some rockfall that was close enough to send me ducking behind a rock. Sounded like a slab came down but we didn't see any scars the next day as we headed out.

We had hoped for 5 days on this section but due to the weather and our poor route finding on day 4, we didn't get to Tuolumne until around 2PM on day six. It was a nice hike up over the pass and past Vogelsang Lake. It did get hot as we descended and Rafferty Creek was dry. We faced a dilemma at Tuolumne due to the campground closure and no camping rules in the area. We didn't have a lot of time (couldn't have made it on the high route to the Mine shaft area for camping before dark) and I don't think the YART bus would have stopped at our trailhead. So we hitched to the Gaylor Lakes trailhead and got a ride from a nice couple, originally from Florida. Strange that so many trailheads in the area don't have signs on Tioga road but our GPS saved the day and we made our way to the legal camping up near the mine.

The next day was pretty straightforward and we eventually made our way to Cascade Lake. This was the one exception to our quiet camps. There were people everywhere. I was too tired to think about it much. Hadn't slept well the whole trip and it had caught up to me. It was all I could do to help set up the tent, get supper and collapse into my sleeping bag. Of note though, we did hear more rockfall nearby.

Day eight went well with one notable exception. We ended up relatively close to Sky Pilot Col but were in a "can't get there from here situation". So we had to descend back into the bowl and climb the scree up to the actual pass. After that diversion though it was a lovely descent down into the canyon and then ascent up to Soldier Lake; another quiet and beautiful site for camping.

The next and final day (we were happy to get out on Sunday which would put us on par to get into Red's to retrieve our vehicle and then out of the area before they closed 395) went well aside from a little smoke in the morning but once again it disappeared quickly. No issues finding and then descending Stanton Pass although I did find the exposure a little daunting. The pool and snowfield below Horse Creek Pass were neat. We also enjoyed the rock, a very knife edge looking mountain after Horse Creek Pass and the large trees on the way to Twin Lakes.

All in all, it was a great trip. The solitude was noteworthy, route finding was challenging and interesting and scenery outstanding. Having hiked all over the country, I can say with confidence that the Sierras are indeed a very special place.

[windknot]

Thanks for the report! Glad you had a successful trip and surmounted the logistical challenges. Pretty cool that you saw a pine marten, too -- I've never seen one.

[aogo]

Very welcome! Perhaps if you are able to get to Cecile lake, you will see it too. I find that most trips don't have anything that unusual but now and then if you keep getting out there...