Any route from Upper Mills Creek Lake to Mills Lake/Ruby Lake?

[tahoerob]

Hello everyone.

This is a follow-up to my post about asking for North Col conditions. As I wrote in that post, I had wanted to do a loop out of Pine Creek and come out via North Col, Spire Lake and the Morgan Mine Road. It sounds like the road is still impassable. I spoke with the White Mountain Ranger Station today and they said it's not doable.

I've now been looking at alternate route possibilities and have come up with a route from Little Lakes Valley TH. See my GAIA link below if interested. Basically it's Little Lakes Valley TH > Dade Lake > North Col > Italy Pass > Granite Park Pass > Feather Peak > Ruskie Pass > Seven Gables > Ursula Pass > Hilgard Pass > Second Recess ... and here's where my question lies.

I've done Gabbot Pass to Upper Mills Creek Lake and out Second Recess (many years ago). Since I haven't done Hilgard Pass, I thought I'd do that one on this trip. I'd really like to avoid dropping all the way down Second Recess and going out over Mono Pass. Looking at the Topo, I'm wondering if it's possible to cross from Upper Mills Creek Lake to Mills Lake (and down to Ruby Lake) between Mount Abbot and Mount Mills?

I welcome any thoughts and route suggestions! Thank you!

https://www.gaiagps.com/map/?loc=10.7/- ... e59204610a

[khamike]

The col you are looking at is called Petit Griffon for the small spire that stands in the middle of it, see https://www.summitpost.org/petit-griffon/904253 or https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/115158885 in particular for a good picture. I don't know what the west side is like but the east side is generally only done early season when you can crampon up the snowfield, after it melts out (like it will be now), it is supposed to be horrible loose 4th class. So not recommended.

I've heard there might be a way to cross from upper mills to fourth recess, which would at least save you dropping all the way down to Mono creek, but can neither confirm nor deny how hard it might be.

[tahoerob]

After posting I did some further research and dug out my copy of Secor's book and read up on Petit Griffon. It does sound like a rather nasty route this time of year. I found a video online from an early season climb and it looks quite mellow with snow in the col. I couldn't find anything about the west side, though.

Looking at the map, I wonder if there's a route into Fourth Recess between the Lower and Upper Mills Creek Lakes, just northwest of Mount Mills. Maybe someone here will have some additional info to share. Thank you for your reply!

[Gogd]

Looking at the map, I wonder if there's a route into Fourth Recess between the Lower and Upper Mills Creek Lakes, just northwest of Mount Mills. Maybe someone here will have some additional info to share. Thank you for your reply!

Yes, but it is hard! Top end of C-4 with significant exposure. If you bring a rope you'll be happy; otherwise you're mountaineering, a la Harlen style! You can send it via the obvious col halfway between Mt Mills and Peak 12861. Even with my description, you'll have a challenge finding the exact route. The route on the north side ascends, aiming for a point about 100 yards left of the col proper. Traverse to the col when about the same elevation. In the 1990s we needed crampons and axes for the last few yards. Maybe climate change has made the route ice free and easier - or maybe the ice and snow concealed a C-5 crux. The route from the south side parallels course of the freshet originating just below the col. Do not track along the water course, however, as it cliffs out in a couple of places and it can be a pain to climb back out of this drainage gully.

Ed

[tahoerob]

Looking at the map, I wonder if there's a route into Fourth Recess between the Lower and Upper Mills Creek Lakes, just northwest of Mount Mills. Maybe someone here will have some additional info to share. Thank you for your reply!

Yes, but it is hard! Top end of C-4 with significant exposure. If you bring a rope you'll be happy; otherwise you're mountaineering, a la Harlen style! You can send it via the obvious col halfway between Mt Mills and Peak 12861. Even with my description, you'll have a challenge finding the exact route. The route on the north side ascends, aiming for a point about 100 yards left of the col proper. Traverse to the col when about the same elevation. In the 1990s we needed crampons and axes for the last few yards. Maybe climate change has made the route ice free and easier - or maybe the ice and snow concealed a C-5 crux. The route from the south side parallels course of the freshet originating just below the col. Do not track along the water course, however, as it cliffs out in a couple of places and it can be a pain to climb back out of this drainage gully.

Ed

Thank you very much for that description, Ed! I was looking at some photos of the Mills Creek Lake side and I can see the route you describe. Your description definitely makes it sound very challenging, probably more than I want to tackle on this trip, especially since it will likely be a solo mission and I will have already done some very big days. I like staying in the high country and am always looking for off-trail routes, but this sounds like I should probably put a pin in it and do a little recon first. I'd be climbing up the south side and descending the north side, so I'd hate to get to the top and realize I'm screwed on the descent.

Thanks again for your response and route description! Very much appreciated!

-Rob

[Gogd]

Thank you very much for that description, Ed! I was looking at some photos of the Mills Creek Lake side and I can see the route you describe. Your description definitely makes it sound very challenging, probably more than I want to tackle on this trip, especially since it will likely be a solo mission and I will have already done some very big days. I like staying in the high country and am always looking for off-trail routes, but this sounds like I should probably put a pin in it and do a little recon first. I'd be climbing up the south side and descending the north side, so I'd hate to get to the top and realize I'm screwed on the descent.

Thanks again for your response and route description! Very much appreciated!

-Rob

Yea, I'd go with retracing your steps over North Col. It is less gonzo, and you'll have up to date knowledge of the route, having already crossed North Col, earlier in your trip.

Ed