After driving up the day before (through a monstrous thunder storm) and spending a rainy night at Porcupine Flat, we started at 7:30am from the Dog Lake parking lot. The cloudy, cool weather made for good hiking. We found the terrain up Rafferty Creek to be pleasant and inviting. The previous day’s rain made the trail conditions near perfect and we crossed Vogelsang Pass after a brief break to ensure another thunder cell wasn’t imminent. After cooling our feet in Lewis Creek, and dodging rain on the hike up, we set up camp in one of the established spots on Bernice Lake at about 2pm. For the afternoon, we had the place to ourselves. The lake afforded a lovely place for a swim. Later, I met Mike from New Zealand. He was visiting the states for three weeks and had stayed a few extra days (after sending his family home) to hike through Yosemite. Mike, if you ever read this, hope the rest of your hike was great!
Bernice Lake to Lyell Fork of Merced -- 11.56 miles -- 1,793 feet elevation gain
Mike was the last person we’d see for three days. Now to the meat of the hike. After packing up while a coyote sang, we pushed on. Our goal was the Lyell Fork with the hope we’d cross Rodgers Pass in a couple days. Lewis Creek contains some spectacular granite cascades. We stopped at one spot and enjoyed the view while cooling down. The climb up from Lewis Creek is not particularly tough, but recent rainstorms have damaged the trail in places, leaving gullies and washed out portions. It’s all still passable.
After enjoying the occasional view of the Clark Range, we broke off the trail above the Lyell Fork Crossing and eventually found the old stock trail just before the meadows. Upon dropping into the grove next to the meadows, we noticed a tent set up in the old horse camp. It’s occupant away, we passed it and made for the “backpacker camp” on the granite slabs dividing the upper and lower meadows. The view from there is ridiculously beautiful, with Mt. Ansel Adams and Foerster Peak reflecting the evening glow. This spot is a gem.
To upper Lyell Fork of Merced -- 5.11 miles -- 1,787 feet elevation gain
One of our crew had been feeling off, so we tempered our expectations and moved gingerly up the drainage. The route up was easy enough, following granite and grassy ramps. Once against the granite wall, we zig-zagged to the left of the falls. I believe there may be an easier route further left, but this route was fine.
Upon reaching the top of the falls, the slabs of stacked granite made for easy climbing and expansive views. We followed the creek, enjoying the rushing water and took a break at the north end of Lake 10200. I have read that others camped at this spot, but found no acceptable place to pitch a tent. It mattered not, since we decided to push further up and camp at Lake 10840, just below Sluggo Pass. The evening light was spectacular, a few clouds mixing up what had been a clear blue day. Obsidian flakes dotted the area — likely left there 1000’s of years ago.
Upper Lyell Fork to Lower Lyell Fork -- 8.72 miles -- 744 feet elevation gain
We got going early and headed for Rodgers Pass on another sunny, clear day. Navigating up the drainage took some planning to find ramps that cut between the granite walls. Instead of a straight line, we took a large “S” shaped route. As we reached the 11,300 ft. mark we got a good look at the pass. It was not within our comfort level. We decided that we’d head back down and explore more of the lower basin. We searched for more archeological sites, took a dip in the creek, and then worked our way down the side of the falls into the lower meadows. The horse camp was clear, so we rested there for a bit before heading down and setting up camp by some cascades above the trail crossing of the Lyell Fork. The cascades were perfect for cooling off.
Lower Lyell Fork to Rafferty Creek -- 16.04 miles -- 3,197 feet elevation gain
Now retracing our route back, this day ended up being a long one. The trail above the Merced River again granted spectacular views of the Clark Range. We would take many breaks this day to rest, cool our feet in the water, and just enjoy the peaceful surroundings. Back on the Lewis Creek trail, we immediately saw a couple filtering water — our first people in three days. After a few more breaks climbing up Lewis Creek, we pushed for an afternoon crossing of Vogelsang Pass. I feared it would be a hot, exposed endeavor, but the lower portion of the climb is fairly shaded and a cool breeze helped us out as we reached the top. We passed a school group of about a dozen headed to Bernice Lake. We’d also seen two other groups headed that way earlier. I imagine it was a packed house up there that night.
Over Vogelsang, we walked past the closed High Sierra Camp and checked out the backpacker camp. A couple groups were there. We decided to keep moving after discovering people had been using the sites as a bathroom, and unattended packs & food in one site had already been pilfered by critters. I really liked the three days with no people.
We checked out Boothe Lake, but people were camped all around it, so it was decided to go over Toulumne Pass and head downhill until a decent flow of water could be found. About two miles below the pass we found an acceptable spot and made camp. We were beat. I was surprised by the amount of people we saw hiking up late into the evening.
Out to Tuolumne Meadows -- 4.9 miles -- 74 feet elevation gain
A quick beat down the trail in the morning and we were out. The trail is much more enjoyable to hike when it’s wet. This day it was dry and sandy.
We took a dip in Tenaya Lake on the way out and stopped at Around The Horn Brewing Company in Groveland. Good hazy!
I loved this area of Yosemite. I had tended to avoid Yosemite as I had an idea that the park would be overcrowded, but these drainages and lake basins in the S side are not too bad at all. I know I was one person who said I camped at lake 10200 but more accurately it was in the hump between the two lower lakes as I too didn't see any good spots right around the lake.